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Tech Talk Technical Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars |
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#1 |
Leaky Injector
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Im getting ready to build my engine
And any advice would be great. I'm building it as a daily with some power. What kinds of parts would be good and do I need to have anything remachined or something like that?
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#2 |
Zilvia Junkie
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what motor do you have? what parts do you already have? whats your power goal?
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#4 |
Zilvia Junkie
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t28. 550s. boost controller. gauges for monitoring. oem head rebuild. oil pump/waterpump. jwt s4 cams. 3 in turbo back. exhaust. fmic. fpr. power fc. and a good tune.
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#5 | |
Zilvia Junkie
![]() Join Date: Dec 2009
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Age: 38
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Quote:
yup... i had a very similar setup and was a good mid to low 12s 1/4 mile. and 305 hp at the wheels. |
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#7 |
Zilvia Junkie
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thats my plan when i rebuild. just shooting for high 200s and reliability at the track.
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#10 |
Zilvia Junkie
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for 300 hp your bottom end is fine. you arent planning on running high boost. i say rebuild head just for precautions. oem parts are fine. just basically to freshin up everything and check everything while your in there. you can run 14-18lbs on that setup fine. just look around. theres plenty of builds on multiple forums with build specs/plans/power goals and yours (and mine) is on the more common and safe side if you dont want to do a FULL rebuild.
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#11 |
Zilvia FREAK!
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Pistons/rods
Hot-tank/pressure wash Block Honed (Gives proper surface to seat rings) File fit rings (need a micrometer) Head-resurfaced Block decked Crank to bearing clearances checked (this will tell you bearing size and if the crank needs to be machined/polished; ACL/Clevite bearings are good) ARP bolts New headgasket Head rebuild. Oil/water pumps Timing chain/guides Gaskets of course The stuff bolded is stuff you most likely are going to want a machine shop to do. |
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#12 |
Zilvia Junkie
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and those are things i forgot haha ^ this
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#13 |
Zilvia FREAK!
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Someone might say what i posted is over kill. But i'm in the process of finishing my KA rebuild (to go ka-t) and like my pops/most people say and would agree. Taking apart your engine is not a leisurely activity and requires TONS of prep, time, and money (Pulling engine, nonrunning car, etc.) So you mine as well get everything you are most likely going to want done, done now, instead of tearing it all apart down the road....or after it blows up. This is absolutely crucial if it is going to be your DD.
Just to throw a quote i've heard my whole life, and im sure a lot of you have? "Proper preparation prevents poor performance" For the love of god have a machine shop check your tolerances/file fit rings/Suggest bearing sizes/Honing/Boring, if you can't do that stuff. So you aren't hitting yourself in the nuts when you get the whole thing back together to find a rod knock. |
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#14 |
Zilvia Junkie
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PISS poor! the 6 ps! i agree. but sr vs kat for mild boost i dont think pistons/rods/decked block are really necessary but thats my opinion. but if you have the time/money/resources and want everything to be perfect or even overkill theres nothing wrong with it. just to me for 300 isnt all that necessary. again just my opinion
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#15 |
Zilvia FREAK!
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OP said 300 "room to up it" so i guess it determines how up he means. But yes a stock rebuild done right to SPEC SPEC SPEC. Should be fine for his coals with a t28. I would still at least have the head>block checked. Who said that engine wasn't over-heated several times? You never know and aluminum can warp. More what i'm trying to get at here is CHECK EVERYTHING. You don't want some stupid little shit that could have simply been checked for free/low cost to bite you in the ass in the end. And its always better to know the insides of the engine your going to be beating on
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#16 |
Zilvia Junkie
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i fully agree. prep is key.
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