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Tech Talk Technical Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars |
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#1 |
Zilvia Junkie
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Replace whole T/C rod, or just bushing??
My stock T/C rod looks good, just my stock bushings are leaking.
Do the aftermarket (whiteline) bushings just pop right into stock rod? I saw a couple options on www.pdm-racing.com I would prefer to just get the bushings, any comments? thanks in advance Eric
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#2 |
Zilvia Member
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Not that easy to get new bushings in. My friend and i had a hard time doing that, but we eventually got them in. For me, i would rather get a new set of rods after spending some times with my friend on his car (bushings.)
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#3 |
Nissanaholic!
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i got the bushings from pdm, took it to my mechanic, it's a bitch to get the old bushings out, make sure a shop has a vice or have really good tools.
search either here or f/a, there's a couple really detailed thread on this. personally, i wished i bought the kazaama, tien, or any aftermarket t/c (the one's without bushings), check the group buys section, i think there's some on sale now (or was on sale). it's such a easy install without dealing with the bushings. in either case, get an alignment afterwards... |
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#6 |
Zilvia Addict
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The Whiteline tension rod bushings from PDM-Racing seem a bit expensive compared to the ones made by Energy Suspension. Check 'em out here: http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchan...e=99995-77105G
I was planning to swap out the bushings prior to getting an alignment for my S14. However, due to an untimely accident, I decided to go with a set of Tanabe adjustable tension rods. They're a lot more beefy and durable. They also offer a wide range of adjustabliity I have yet to explore. My $0.02
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#7 |
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do a search, the whiteline are tapered, the energy ones aren't, supposedly they crack the TC rod after time.
I am glad I didn't go with spherical bushings since my car rides hard over expansion joints just with the poly bushings all around. spherical must be a real nut slapper. I just checked those energy ones out, they are only like what, 8 bucks cheaper? not big enough to make a difference. Last edited by andrave; 11-13-2003 at 02:18 AM.. |
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#8 |
Zilvia Junkie
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Thanks alot guys, I appreciate your info!
I had a feeling it would be a pain to get the bushings out and in.. I think I am going to buy OEM rods/bushings from PDM. Thanks again Eric
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#9 |
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but oem bushings suck. You can get whiteline bushings pressed in for around the same price...
you have to take the opportunity to upgrade your car when you get it. The poly bushings make a big difference. |
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#10 |
Zilvia Junkie
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So its worth the hassel then? I have a shop that will put in the new rods/bushings for a "friend discount price". I just dont want to be an a$$ and bring him something that takes 2 hours instead of a half hour.
Eric
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#11 |
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why OEM
go aftermarket you get some adjustment if you like, no bushing, streetability discomfort..next to nothing over stock (feels nearly same) anyways.. let's see pdm-racing.com oem tc rod and bushing: $71.50 for 1 whiteline bushing in tc rod: $103.5 for 1 aftermarket: splparts.com: $161 for 2 now if your ONLY buying the bushing, then go for it, but if your buying the whole TC rod.. |
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#12 |
Zilvia Junkie
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Holy crap, I have never seen these before (SPL tension rods S14/S15 $161)
So no rubber bushing...anybody using these now?
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#13 |
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yea
LOTS AND LOTS AND LOTS of folks very very common upgrade to go w/ aftermarket TC rods very common kazama, tein, spl, project silvia (check that out too, might be cheaper) |
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#14 |
Zilvia FREAK!
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Most all of my adjustable parts are from SPL(including T/C Rods), very high quality and great service. O ya good price too. Don't get ass raped for a big name when SPL is JUST as good.
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#15 |
Zilvia Junkie
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Looks like you guys sold me on those SPL rods!! Thanks alot for all the tips on these,
one las thing, I see that they look adjustable..Should I just make them the same length as my current rods, or is there somewhere I can read up on this to understand adjusting?..thanks a bunch Eric
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#16 |
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i would add caster
when you get aligment just add like 1 or 2 degrees stock i think is 5 degrees.. mine right now are 7.25 i think...but still rub when at the track drifting so going back to 8 degrees id say a bit more caster would be nice. its your call. dont have to but if you might as well. if you dont like it, go back to stock. doesnt hurt to try! ![]() |
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#17 |
Zilvia Member
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You can pick up the projectsilvia ones on ebay for like $150 I think and they have the oil/lube nipple thing...Had them installed for a couple weeks now, very happy, easy install...
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#18 |
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HA I've got one stock TC rod and one URAS adjustable. and even shortened all the way the URAS is longer than the stock one. so I got like .5 to 1 degree more caster on the drivers side than the passenger. feels kinda funny. I gotta order new tc rods. I'm tempted to get kazamas since all my oters are kazama and the red will match soo nicely... either that or get SPLs and powdercoat um
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#19 |
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I agree with dousan, little to no difference in ride quality with spherical bearings.
I run 8 degree's of caster. Takes a bit more steering effort, but makes the car corner better, and more stable. Steeles - positive caster will move the wheel forward in the wheel well. A shorter T/C rod should increase caster... note on poly bushes.. they don't like twisting. The whiteline units being tapered helps, but MAKE SURE, TRIPLE SURE, that you put LOTS of the grease b/w the insert sleeve (that the mounting bolt goes through), and the bushing itself. Once tightened down, the sleeve will not twist, and the poly bushing will need to twist AROUND the sleeve. if it can't, it will eventually tear the T/C rod out of your control arm, and you will have to buy new control arms, and possibly new t/c rods as well. Rubber bushings, and Spherical bearings do not have this problem Also - I own the dspeed t/c rods from PS and they suck. The bearings are rusting, and don't move real well any more. I'm going to be replacing mine soon. I would recommend something with a rubber boot on the bearing, or make sure the spherical bearings are Teflon impregnated.
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#20 | |
Zilvia Addict
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Quote:
How did you measure +2.25 degrees over stock? Also, to add a higher degree of caster, I decrease the length of the tension rod, correct?
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#22 | |
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Quote:
So how much caster would be desirable? +3 degrees over stock?
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#23 | |
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#24 | |
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#25 |
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according to the back of my FSM, stock caster is 6* - 7.5*
http://charles.sykikchimp.org/quickref.html
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