S13 ka24de compression issue need help please

[chaosxsteve]

Close thread thanks

[shalezzz]

who put a head gaket on it?

[chaosxsteve]

I Did it was a felpro gasket from autozone

[rwtf]

probably your problem lol

[chaosxsteve]

Originally Posted by rwtf

probably your problem lol

I highly doubt it xD done it before on my lancer and my old kade

[chaosxsteve]

Any one has a clue to what it could be to why only cylinder #1 is getting all the compression and the rest are not? really need help need to get my car running asap sucks taking bus to school and work :/

[Frank_Jaeger]

Did you ever check the rings for the bottom end?
Did you make sure 100% mechanical timing is correct?

[chaosxsteve]

Originally Posted by Frank_Jaeger

Did you ever check the rings for the bottom end?
Did you make sure 100% mechanical timing is correct?

Uhm honestly i didnt im new at this and since the user here who sold it to me gave me his word and told me he had proof of rebuild i didnt check and even then i wouldnt know what to look for :/ and mechanicaly timed i dont know either mechanic did my timing set up to the fsm standards and even used the timing gun and when we cranked it i noticed white smoke comming out of the exhaust manifold side he told me thats a back fire and not to worry about it after that he took compression amd thats when we got the cyl#1=130psi, #2=30 and so on :/ its going to suck to have to take it all apart again -_- could it be that im using am s14 kade gasket on a s13 block? Should i buy a s13 kade gasket instead? Or should i just look for another head?

[Frank_Jaeger]

The gaskets are the same. The heads are the same, as far as the headgasket is concerned.

Did you use new headstuds? Did you torque them?

Did you have the block and head machined together?

If you're blowing white smoke, that could be coolant from an improperly sealed HG. Which can be caused by a number of things.

[chaosxsteve]

Originally Posted by Frank_Jaeger

The gaskets are the same. The heads are the same, as far as the headgasket is concerned.

Did you use new headstuds? Did you torque them?

Did you have the block and head machined together?

If you're blowing white smoke, that could be coolant from an improperly sealed HG. Which can be caused by a number of things.

Did you use new headstuds? Did you torque them?

yes and followed fsm torqueing

Did you have the block and head machined together?

no I just did the head due to not knowing how much the bottom block had been machined and because I was told it was rebuild. the head I bought it rebuild as well so idk how much that had lost all ready and I had it get a valve job so idk if its at its maxed .08 :/ shop I sent it too didn't give me a compression result or how much they took off either :/ should I get a spacer? or would getting another set of arp bolts and a MSL cometic HG do the trick?

I thank you for the help and for taking the time to help me out guys hope I can get my car running soon

[anti tyler]

you have to understand what gives the motor compression before you can try to do all this work yourself.

seriously look over this website and school yourself, not trying to come off like a douche.

How To Do A Compression Test on Car Engine Leak Down How To Do A Compression Test on Car Engine Leak Down

Q. What if the compression is too low or too high?

A. If the compression results are too high or too low, you might consider consulting a professional technician. Modern vehicles are complicated to test and I have witnessed disastrous outcomes when a Do-It-Yourselfer has attempted this test. If however, you are fearless in your endeavor to diagnose the problem, then use the following techniques.
Consecutive low compression in all cylinders could mean that the problem of fuel washed cylinders exists. This means that the engine has had too much fuel introduced into it and all of the oil has been washed off the cylinder walls. The oil creates a sealing effect between the piston and ring assemblies and the cylinder walls of the engine block. Without this thin layer of oil, the engine compression would be allowed to escape into the crankcase. This is common with an engine that has a 'flooding' problem.
If the engine seems to run normally but is weak and puffs a small amount of bluish smoke, it could be an indicator of worn piston rings and cylinder walls. In either of these events, use a small oil can and squirt a little oil into each cylinder, then repeat the compression test. If the compression dramatically increases then you have found the problem(s). If the compression readings do not change, then it would indicate a timing problem between the camshaft(s) and the crankshaft of the engine. The timing chain or belt would need to be checked for proper timing.
If you find the compression reading is very low or zero in one cylinder, it is highly probable that internal engine damage exists such as:
* The piston could have a broken connecting rod or a hole in it.
* A valve could be stuck or leaking.
* There could be a broken valve spring or a bent push rod.
* The camshaft has excessive wear and is not opening the valve(s).
******* If the compression is low or zero on two adjacent cylinders, it would indicate:
******* There is a 'blown' or weak sealing surface at the head to block mounting area, which basically means a bad head gasket.
******* The camshaft is broken in an area that operates valves for two adjacent cylinders.
When the compression is found to be too high in one or more cylinders, this would be an indication of excessive carbon buildup in the engine. It can only be corrected by performing a chemical de-carbonizing process on the engine or by removing the cylinder head(s) and physically removing the carbon that is attached to the cylinder portion of the head(s) and the tops of the pistons.


Now that being said, get your block machined to match the head... that was your first mistake, not doing.

[chaosxsteve]

Originally Posted by anti tyler

you have to understand what gives the motor compression before you can try to do all this work yourself.

seriously look over this website and school yourself, not trying to come off like a douche.

How To Do A Compression Test on Car Engine Leak Down How To Do A Compression Test on Car Engine Leak Down

Q. What if the compression is too low or too high?

A. If the compression results are too high or too low, you might consider consulting a professional technician. Modern vehicles are complicated to test and I have witnessed disastrous outcomes when a Do-It-Yourselfer has attempted this test. If however, you are fearless in your endeavor to diagnose the problem, then use the following techniques.
Consecutive low compression in all cylinders could mean that the problem of fuel washed cylinders exists. This means that the engine has had too much fuel introduced into it and all of the oil has been washed off the cylinder walls. The oil creates a sealing effect between the piston and ring assemblies and the cylinder walls of the engine block. Without this thin layer of oil, the engine compression would be allowed to escape into the crankcase. This is common with an engine that has a 'flooding' problem.
If the engine seems to run normally but is weak and puffs a small amount of bluish smoke, it could be an indicator of worn piston rings and cylinder walls. In either of these events, use a small oil can and squirt a little oil into each cylinder, then repeat the compression test. If the compression dramatically increases then you have found the problem(s). If the compression readings do not change, then it would indicate a timing problem between the camshaft(s) and the crankshaft of the engine. The timing chain or belt would need to be checked for proper timing.
If you find the compression reading is very low or zero in one cylinder, it is highly probable that internal engine damage exists such as:
* The piston could have a broken connecting rod or a hole in it.
* A valve could be stuck or leaking.
* There could be a broken valve spring or a bent push rod.
* The camshaft has excessive wear and is not opening the valve(s).
******* If the compression is low or zero on two adjacent cylinders, it would indicate:
******* There is a 'blown' or weak sealing surface at the head to block mounting area, which basically means a bad head gasket.
******* The camshaft is broken in an area that operates valves for two adjacent cylinders.
When the compression is found to be too high in one or more cylinders, this would be an indication of excessive carbon buildup in the engine. It can only be corrected by performing a chemical de-carbonizing process on the engine or by removing the cylinder head(s) and physically removing the carbon that is attached to the cylinder portion of the head(s) and the tops of the pistons.

Now that being said, get your block machined to match the head... that was your first mistake, not doing.

hey your not being douche or anything I appreciate the information it might be that block needing to be machined. before I installed the head I cleaned the engine and the cylinder walls were ok I didn't see any glazing or carbon build up and wen moving the crank manually it moved normally with no problem I looked for any scratches or cracks in the walls as well but I will do that next and hopefully machining the bottom block will fix the problem thank you again if any one else has any other idea or had the same problem happen to you please let me know what u did to fix it thank you again for your time