S14-S14sr20det w/Apexi AX53b70 Kit Swap and Questions

[ZenkiSkidz]

Sup Zilvia!

Ill give you guys a little background on the car since im new here. I recently (2mos ago) purchased this 1995 S14 with a KA24de in it. Guy spent tons of money, built the suspension and gave it a fresh FULL paintjob, newer KA with all new gaskets etc etc. Car never had heat...so we pulled the thermostat..and in the process, where it bolts onto the Front Cover..the flange snapped. It also had phantom electrical problems and no egr so it got shitty (like 180 tank) fuel mileage. I just had a bad taste in my mouth from it.







I already had plans for this to be getting an sr20 next year...and i didnt want to put ANY money into the Ka.....so i bought this SR20det from JEI (Japanese Engine Import) in Virginia. Guess i might as well spend the money now rather than later lol.






Motor has: (as far as i know, i havent pulled the VC yet as im waiting for the rest of the parts i ordered for the swap)

Apexi AX53B70 turbo setup
Nismo Yellow 550cc (?) Injectors
Rocker Arm Stoppers
Stainless Lines
z32 MAF
Chipped ECU?
And it appears to have a newer HG.
There might be a set of cams under there but i dont know yet.

Anyway, i was tring to remove the 02 housing/outlet elbow but these two stupid nuts will NOT come out. There is literally NO room to loosen them all the way, and the one in the back can only be moved 1mm before it hits the outlet. Any thoughts? Does it look bent too anyone on here? Were thinking thats a possibility but i dont really know? I got a ISIS one because i was going to be buying a stock SR, but holy shit the quality of the welds, and smoothness inside is aboslute SHIT (imo not bad for the price but expected more from said company)







Also have a look at the ECU. Can ANYONE tell me anything about it? I opened it up and it has a daughterboard, but NO markings or stamps to tell me anything. Ive searched and searched but the ONLY person who had a picture of a DB that matched mine got blocked on here....hahah. I also noticed it doesnt have the knob to turn and check for codes, nor does it have the led like the previous KA box did.
Also might help to mention its a Zenki WC.







One more stupid question...How does this oil pan look? None of the scrapes besides the first "dent make any indentation in the pan itself. So if you think i should replace it please say so before I put this in.





If anyone has ANY suggestions as to what i should replace before i install that would also be a great help. Im doing rear main seal, injector o rings, water pump, VC and spark plug gaskets, new spark plugs (BKR7E gapped too??????), head studs (if not already done), and intake gaskets since i want to make sure there's no debris before startup.

Thanks Zilvia! and i hope i dont get flamed...I actually have good grammar! :sweatsnervously:

[ultimateirving]

The o2 housing will be all finesse. You gotta switch nuts every little turn you can get and wiggle the housing as you go. It will only free up a small amount at a time until you get the nut all the way off the stud. Before you put it back on, I would smack That shit with a hammer a few times and give yourself a little more room. Depending on boost run the pluggs .028-.030

As for the Ecu only two things can be done. Hook up the chips to a prom reader and see what the tune is. Or take it to a dyno and run it with a good wide band and slowly turn up boost. It might be easy to just get a new tune I don't think I would trust it. Then again I'm a highly skeptical person

[Mikester]

I ran a 53B70R on my 180SX in Japan- MEAN turbine!

As for the DP, yea you can finesse it out... Take the rest of the nuts completely off, then pull out on it as you loosen the bottom two. You'll prolly laugh at how easily it comes out. I got hung up on this too, then felt a little silly when I realized that the bottom nuts go in first, and out last.

For the ECU, your guess is good as mine- I'd assume it's stock and do like he said above... It'd be horrible to treat it as if it has a tune on it and blow stuff up.

If the oil pan doesn't leak, I bet it's just scuffed from being in a low car... However, it never hurts to pop the pan off, give a good inspection and put it back on with a fresh gasket... or replace it with an upgraded unit.

[fliprayzin240sx]

Its always a good idea to drop the stock oil pan on SRs, just to bang them out just incase. Sometimes you cant really tell if its pushed up on on the oil sump or not.

[ZenkiSkidz]

SO yeah.

After going through tons of headaches and countless skinned knuckles and fingers I finally finished the swap!

Here's some highlights of the events:

Pulled VC to paint and clean up. Next day (not done yet) was forced to push car back outside and let sit till we could work on it again. Covered the head in multiple rags and towels (not my call/wasnt my decision i would have used plastic and tape.)

It the snowed later that night. Couldnt move the car around for a few days so it sat for around about 4 days. When i went back to put the VC on i noticed light surface rust on the rear lobes of the cams. Cleaned it off nicely with a scotch green and some PB blaster.....put the VC back on and didnt think much more about it.

Fast forward 2 months (dealing with bullshit and finding a good place i could work on it) i finally finshed the swap. Went to put oil in the car and figured "ya know what, im going to take out the drain plug and see if anything is in there. (already assumed that the mech who first inspected the motor did so and checked inside)

OUT POURS FUCKING 3.5 QTS OF FUCKING WATER. YES.....WATER.....and then around a quart of this disgusting oily sludge gray shit and the weeeee bit of clean oil i poured ontop of the cams.

LUCKILY the water only sat in the pan and was not touching the crank or bearings (pulled the lower pan off and inspected it...was cleanish) and sat pretty much submerged in the oily sludge crap protecting it from rusting over. The cyl walls were clean and i could still see the crosshatching.

******Main reason for posting/Video Below******
I finally started it last night and it instantly (after priming) fired right up!! No hiccups, no hesitation, no long cranking...it just instantly right up!!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KNZx6mWaO8I

Heres my few issues now:

1. Car idles at like 9.8 to 10.3 afr at all times and at 2k rpm. I havent revved it up because of the noise im hearing near the CAS (we'll get to in a sec) It can run for like 45 seconds pretty good, and then starts fouling the plugs/ blowing smoke. I cant tell what colour that smoke it since it's 23 degree's here and it looks really white..in the vid its fine, but about 5 seconds after i stopped recording it starting blowing smoke so i shut it down.

2. I discovered the car has aftermarket mystery cams installed (i figured it would anyway seeing as it has 550's, the turbo kit, and z32 maf) so could they cause the idle to be this lumpy?? Maybe its misfiring? Bad coilpack? Maybe its fouling the plugs because of a stuck injector?

3. Car holds -14 vac which seems pretty good? Maybe its a vac leak somewhere??

4.That GOD AWFUL slapping noise i hear coming from the upper VC/front cover/CAS area. It sorta sounds like the chain slapping against something intermittently. Its most definitely NOT the VTC noise so often heard. I spent like 2 hours watching youtube vids before posting here so maybe y'all can recognize it? Maybe its a bad bearing or some damage caused by the water?? All i know is its really loud.



I would love to keep the motor running and check things over more but after about 45 seconds-minute it fouls the plugs and blows smoke. at first its perfectly fine...just rich as you can see. I figured that even at 10 afr it wouldnt foul the plugs so fast.


Thanks y'all! Whomever gives me a working solution will get paypal money! I just want this to be driveable enough to make it too the tuner/dyno, otherwise im going to have to send out my ecu to enthalpy or something. thanks.

[ultimateirving]

Glad to see you got it sort if running man. But that knocking sound is not goo. Pull off the valve cover and have another look. Especially with all that water you found.
Lastly most tuners are not mechanics and most mechanics are not tuners. So if you want you car tuned take it to them with it running properly they don't want to waste your time and money trying to diagnose.
Just some friendly advice.

Originally Posted by ZenkiSkidz

SO yeah.

After going through tons of headaches and countless skinned knuckles and fingers I finally finished the swap!

Here's some highlights of the events:

Pulled VC to paint and clean up. Next day (not done yet) was forced to push car back outside and let sit till we could work on it again. Covered the head in multiple rags and towels (not my call/wasnt my decision i would have used plastic and tape.)

It the snowed later that night. Couldnt move the car around for a few days so it sat for around about 4 days. When i went back to put the VC on i noticed light surface rust on the rear lobes of the cams. Cleaned it off nicely with a scotch green and some PB blaster.....put the VC back on and didnt think much more about it.

Fast forward 2 months (dealing with bullshit and finding a good place i could work on it) i finally finshed the swap. Went to put oil in the car and figured "ya know what, im going to take out the drain plug and see if anything is in there. (already assumed that the mech who first inspected the motor did so and checked inside)

OUT POURS FUCKING 3.5 QTS OF FUCKING WATER. YES.....WATER.....and then around a quart of this disgusting oily sludge gray shit and the weeeee bit of clean oil i poured ontop of the cams.

LUCKILY the water only sat in the pan and was not touching the crank or bearings (pulled the lower pan off and inspected it...was cleanish) and sat pretty much submerged in the oily sludge crap protecting it from rusting over. The cyl walls were clean and i could still see the crosshatching.

******Main reason for posting/Video Below******
I finally started it last night and it instantly (after priming) fired right up!! No hiccups, no hesitation, no long cranking...it just instantly right up!!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KNZx6mWaO8I

Heres my few issues now:

1. Car idles at like 9.8 to 10.3 afr at all times and at 2k rpm. I havent revved it up because of the noise im hearing near the CAS (we'll get to in a sec) It can run for like 45 seconds pretty good, and then starts fouling the plugs/ blowing smoke. I cant tell what colour that smoke it since it's 23 degree's here and it looks really white..in the vid its fine, but about 5 seconds after i stopped recording it starting blowing smoke so i shut it down.

2. I discovered the car has aftermarket mystery cams installed (i figured it would anyway seeing as it has 550's, the turbo kit, and z32 maf) so could they cause the idle to be this lumpy?? Maybe its misfiring? Bad coilpack? Maybe its fouling the plugs because of a stuck injector?

3. Car holds -14 vac which seems pretty good? Maybe its a vac leak somewhere??

4.That GOD AWFUL slapping noise i hear coming from the upper VC/front cover/CAS area. It sorta sounds like the chain slapping against something intermittently. Its most definitely NOT the VTC noise so often heard. I spent like 2 hours watching youtube vids before posting here so maybe y'all can recognize it? Maybe its a bad bearing or some damage caused by the water?? All i know is its really loud.



I would love to keep the motor running and check things over more but after about 45 seconds-minute it fouls the plugs and blows smoke. at first its perfectly fine...just rich as you can see. I figured that even at 10 afr it wouldnt foul the plugs so fast.


Thanks y'all! Whomever gives me a working solution will get paypal money! I just want this to be driveable enough to make it too the tuner/dyno, otherwise im going to have to send out my ecu to enthalpy or something. thanks.

[ZenkiSkidz]

Originally Posted by ultimateirving

Glad to see you got it sort if running man. But that knocking sound is not goo. Pull off the valve cover and have another look. Especially with all that water you found.
Lastly most tuners are not mechanics and most mechanics are not tuners. So if you want you car tuned take it to them with it running properly they don't want to waste your time and money trying to diagnose.
Just some friendly advice.

What exactly should I be looking for??? Chain movement?? If the motor is fucked in some sort of way I'd rather find out sooner rather than later. But it definitely isn't from the bottom end which surprises me the most.

Any tips?? Ill head over there in a bit and pop off the cover.