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Tech Talk Technical Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars |
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#1 |
Join Date: Sep 2013
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Bleeding a clutch
We've bled this thing like 6 fucking times. First time, wasn't doing it right, then master cyl was busted, then the slave cyl was busted, then we broke the line. Now? The little metal rod that fits inside the boot on the slave cylinder just pushed itself out the boot. There's a TON of pressure behind it so I can't just push it back in, what are we doing wrong? Clutch is down, open the valve on the slave cyl and let the fluid and air out, then close it. Pump the pedal (up, then down again) and repeat, that's right isn't it? Also, the part on the tranny that looks like it's supposed to push the little rod on the slave cylinder in isn't moving, is it supposed to push the rod and boot on the slave cylinder in?
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#2 |
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Did you install the clutch fork correctly? The slave is supposed to expand and push the fork which pivots inside the transmission and pushed the clutch in. Something between the fork and the clutch doesn't seem right.
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#4 |
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nah all that is open and should work. The fact that there is a ton of pressure and it's not moving makes me think the fork or something inside the transmission isn't installed correctly.
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#5 |
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I can move the fork with my hand, is that good or bad? Like, it wiggles around in place, up and down, back a little. I got the slave cylinder fixed up and I'm going to try to bleed it again. That fork is supposed to push on the slave cylinder right?
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#8 | |
Zilvia Addict
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Quote:
While you are under your car, and it looks like you are, the little thing that sticks out of your transmission hole that the slave cylinder is pressing against, grab it with your hands and wiggle it/giggle it (AKA the shifter fork/clutch fork) , if it moves freely, you have an issue and need to remove the transmission. Why are you bleeding the clutch in the first place? |
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#9 | ||
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Which sounds completely normal. the fork should have a little bit of wiggle to it. A little bit. If he gets a video of the movement, it would really help. Videos and pictures help. The clutch fork is supposed to pivot on a pivot ball. The pivot ball clips into the back of the fork. You should be carefull not to accidently dislodge the fork from the pivot ball, because then, you may have to remove the transmission to see what you are doing. What i am trying to say is, do not force/mishandle your clutch fork or you might knock it off the pivot ball. |
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#10 | |
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And 5 speed swap. |
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#11 |
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take some pictures.
if the rod comes out of the slave, that means nothing was holding it in. so pray tell, why isnt the clutch fork holding your slave's rod in? the little rod will fall right out if nothing is in front of it, holding it in |
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#12 |
Man w/ CTSV & a Car Seat
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Only way the pivot pin will shoot out is because you have the wrong slave cylinder (the pin is short) or your clutch has the wrong TOB/Carrier (shorter) and is letting the slave hyper extend itself out.
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#13 |
Leaky Injector
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The slave is installed on the transmission and pin lined up on the fork before you started bleeding it, right? Do you still have all that stock shit between the slave and the master? Exactly how loose is the TOB fork? It has a little retainer spring on the back and it will likely wiggle a little bit.
Pics or video dude. Much easier to help you that way.
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#15 |
Post Whore!
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I think some pictures are in order, specifically at the clutch fork and slave cylinder area.
As stated, there is something funky going on around here. Either your clutch pivot is broken or like Flip said the slave rod and/or TOB combination is incorrect.
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#16 |
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VVfY...ature=youtu.be
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n3Xf...ature=youtu.be Videos you guys asked for. After moving the clutch fork around, it has more play on it than the last time I tried to move it. I'm pretty sure it's that, you guys were saying it should have a little play and that's not a little. |
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#17 |
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The way the clutch fork slaps forward and backward like that makes me think it is no longer attached to the pivot ball.
the center of the fork shouldnt move. When you press the fork backwards, it should pivot, not move completely. See if you can simply snap the fork back onto the pivot ball. Might fix all your issues. The video is not good enough to see the pivot ball. But you should be able to see it behind the fork by looking in. There is a retainer clip on the back of the fork that holds the fork to the pivot ball. Sometimes this retainer clip breaks, Ive seen it happen. Right at 0:05 when you are pushing the fork to the left of the screen, normally the fork is VERY DIFFICULT to press this direction. That is what keeps the slave's piston from falling out. |
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#18 |
Post Whore!
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Pull the rubber off the fork and look into the hole, this will give you a better idea if the fork is on the pivot ball. It should be held in place by a piece of wire that runs the length of the fork.
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#20 |
Zilvia Junkie
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Just to clairify, the proper bleeding procedure is as follows:
1) open bleeder 2) push pedal down (slowly) 3) close bleeder 4) let pedal up Repeat Repeat A water bottle with a coat hanger wrapped around the top and bent into a hook shape is helpful. You can hang it on something under the car. Make a small "x" cut in the top and press a clear hose through it. Keep bleeding until you don't see air bubbles coming through the hose. Then you know it's done. I think the fork looks like it is moving normally when the slave is not bolted down although it should feel like it's pivoting on the pivot ball. If the whole thing is just freely flopping around in there it's probably come un-clipped as several others have mentioned. You could gently try to move it in and out instead of forward and back. It shouldn't want to do this if it's clipped down. Also when you are bleeding, make sure to bolt the slave into place with the push rod between it and the fork so it doesn't push it out on the ground. The fork should keep it from coming off. The boot problem you are having may just be that it's covered in brake fluid. Try cleaning it off and see if it still slips out of the boot. |
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#22 |
Man w/ CTSV & a Car Seat
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I usually pump the pedal about 7 times, hold it down, crack the bleeder open and close. Have a hose attached to the bleeder, going into a clear bottle with some brake fluid in it. Will repeat this process until I dont get any more bubble out of the hose.
Make sure the mastercylinder stays topped off. If you empty it on accident, you're starting over again. |
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#23 | |
GM2 (SW/AW)
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I don't know about anyone else, but my fork doesn't move around like that lol.
But that doesn't solve why your slave cylinder is extending. Just buy a new one, they're cheap enough as it is. Reset your fork onto the pivot, | | |--> bolt yout slave cylinder down. (regardless of whether the post is set correctly, just bolt it down. | | |--> THEN put some ass into it and slide the post back onto the fork. It WILL work. Had to do this before, It's not as huge of a deal as it appears to be. Unless if in your case it is, if so, whatever. deal with it.
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#24 |
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Arizona
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The slave cylinder wasn't bolted on because I wa sshowing how much the fork moved. I know it's gotta be bolted in place, c'mon guys lol. I'll check and see if ot's off the pivot ball tomorrow
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#25 |
Zilvia FREAK!
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If the fluid won't flow back up to the master to let you push the slave in, it sounds like the master is adjuted wrong (or, it's the wrong master). Sounds like you need to let the pushrod out some, so that the piston in the cylinder will move back, allowing the backflow of fluid when you release the clutch (or when you push the slave).
That is, it sounds like it's adjusted so that in effect, the pedal is always in. |
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