SR not starting - Zilvia.net Forums | Nissan 240SX (Silvia) and Z (Fairlady) Car Forum

ashero2 · 04-20-2015, 11:15 AM

Need help. Got a s13 with a sr20 in it from a guy and already had problems starting. noticed he had a lawn/garden battery in it that only had a cold crank amps(CCA) of 275 and the car barely was getting any power. replaced the battery with a brand new one with 500 CCA but still no luck. no clicking or anything. electric fans come on and all my lights work. what next to look at?

i did search and didn't see anyone else really having this problem btw for those ppl.

EDIT: When I got the car we had to push start it to get it up but I drove it a little over a 100 miles back home without a problem but didn't turn the car off due to me being worried it wouldn't start up again. so obviously im getting spark and fuel and am running. matter of why it wont start is another problem. and when we are talking about a 100 mile drive, that's an hour and 45 minute drive and scraping up the highway.

angel mkiv · 04-20-2015, 01:03 PM

Check the connections at the starter and make sure there right, then if so hook up a test light on the starter solenoid wire and see if when your turn the key it's getting power.if it is then replace the starter..also try hitting it with a hammer and see if it breaks the starter free.

ashero2 · 04-20-2015, 06:23 PM

aite will do tomorrow. I asked the guy did he replace the starter and ignition or kept the KA set and put them on the SR. he says its a replaced starter and he kept the ignition off the KA and put it on the swap. I was wondering about that if the starter ignition from a KA would be compatible with a SR and still looking to see if it is or not.

pacotaco345 · 04-21-2015, 09:45 AM

Wait what? The ignition switch should be compatible with whatever motor you want to put in your car... even a LS/2J etc. You probably have a blown fuse or are missing a ground somewhere if the motor isn't even turning over.

Also, I see you live in lemoore.. Sorry bout ya

ashero2 · 04-21-2015, 05:40 PM

nah I was wondering if a KA starter is compatible with a SR. im checking fuses tomorrow. got under the car to check the starter and it seems ok. connections were there and all but I didn't have a test light to test the solenoid. still nothing click or anything. tapped it a couple times with a wrench also and still nothing. sourcing out now to possibly just get a new starter for it.

just to make sure tho, for the starter there was one plug that connected onto it and another big line that looked like was screwed onto it and that's it. is this correct? ill post a pic after work

and yea Lemoore sucks.....but its w.e. its the military

92SEric240sx · 04-21-2015, 06:03 PM

hey man- if it's a manual check if the rubber nub is still on the clutch pedal- There is an interlock that prevents it from starting if this little piece is missing the switch will not get depressed. This or replace the ignition

kashira kureijii · 04-21-2015, 08:32 PM

If there is no clicking, and you have verified that it is not a fuse or relay, check the wiring for the plugs near the battery tray, there are people out there that don't know shit, and could have wired the swap wrong. If you don't wire those plugs correctly (or just plugged the plugs in from the sr into the ka plugs), the car will act as you said, with accessory stuff getting power but no turnover or clicking at all.

check the wiring here v most of it is color to color vvv
http://www.frsport.com/SR20DET-Swap-...SR20_t_26.html

Shouldn't get a new starter until you have verified that that was done correctly

The High & Mighty · 04-21-2015, 08:43 PM

Time to bust out the digital multimeter and check for power and ground, do some voltage drop, continuity tests. check the basics first, fuses.

good luck shipmate.

Rob238449 · 04-21-2015, 08:58 PM

If you have a Multi-Meter check Continuity from chassis to starter NEG Post. for good ground. Check Voltage at POS Post on Starter. I've seen REMAN starters out of the box be faulty because of solenoids. Start with the basics and double check the wiring IAW the FSM.

ashero2 · 04-23-2015, 05:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 92SEric240sx

hey man- if it's a manual check if the rubber nub is still on the clutch pedal- There is an interlock that prevents it from starting if this little piece is missing the switch will not get depressed. This or replace the ignition

can you send me a pic of it? not seeing what youre talking about. ignition was my second idea of replacing. first I might replace my starter.

Quote:

Originally Posted by kashira kureijii

If there is no clicking, and you have verified that it is not a fuse or relay, check the wiring for the plugs near the battery tray, there are people out there that don't know shit, and could have wired the swap wrong. If you don't wire those plugs correctly (or just plugged the plugs in from the sr into the ka plugs), the car will act as you said, with accessory stuff getting power but no turnover or clicking at all.

check the wiring here v most of it is color to color vvv
http://www.frsport.com/SR20DET-Swap-...SR20_t_26.html

Shouldn't get a new starter until you have verified that that was done correctly

Im still going through all the fuses. noticed some of the fuses being the wrong amps and all. the fuse box under the steering wheel are mainly accessories but the ignition runs off 3 10amp fuses and only 2 were in which were a 10 and a 15 which was obviously wrong. also going through the ones in the engine bay and the 30amp fuse was good. checked the 75amp fuse for the alternator and that was good too. tomorrow will be a big day to go through all fuses and relays to make sure so ill keep it posted.

Quote:

Originally Posted by The High & Mighty

Time to bust out the digital multimeter and check for power and ground, do some voltage drop, continuity tests. check the basics first, fuses.

good luck shipmate.

my friend brought his multimeter over today but as soon as we started testing things something was off on it and then both probes disconnected from the wires

sigh......so that will hopefully be tomorrow.

and thanks.....as much as I hate the navy lol

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rob238449

If you have a Multi-Meter check Continuity from chassis to starter NEG Post. for good ground. Check Voltage at POS Post on Starter. I've seen REMAN starters out of the box be faulty because of solenoids. Start with the basics and double check the wiring IAW the FSM.

once we get another multimeter we plan on checking the starter again. also going to get another battery cable to run and relocating the battery.

Quote:

Originally Posted by coupesallday!

See if the car was converted to 5speed. Check the shift lock wires that have to be jumpered by the fuse box on the passenger side. If it's not jumped then nothing's going to happen no spark etc.

the car was converted. we looked up the trans axle number and all and it was previously an automatic. are you talking about the fuse box in the engine bay on the passenger side? that's the only thing I can find. also if you can send me a pic. greatly appreciated.

coupesallday! · 04-21-2015, 09:50 PM

See if the car was converted to 5speed. Check the shift lock wires that have to be jumpered by the fuse box on the passenger side. If it's not jumped then nothing's going to happen no spark etc.

ashero2 · 04-22-2015, 11:20 AM

thanks everyone for the inputs. ill keep looking into the car more. didn't have time yesterday to do anything. I made a quick update and background so that way it can lessen the possibilities and be more specific

ashero2 · 04-27-2015, 06:21 PM

got the car to start now. found out the ignition relay might be bad. had the 500 cca battery hooked up and it seemed it might be a little weak also. just wondering what is the normal cca for an sr20?

04-20-2015, 11:15 AM	#1
ashero2 Leaky Injector Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Lemoore, CA Age: 34 Posts: 70 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	SR not starting Need help. Got a s13 with a sr20 in it from a guy and already had problems starting. noticed he had a lawn/garden battery in it that only had a cold crank amps(CCA) of 275 and the car barely was getting any power. replaced the battery with a brand new one with 500 CCA but still no luck. no clicking or anything. electric fans come on and all my lights work. what next to look at? i did search and didn't see anyone else really having this problem btw for those ppl. EDIT: When I got the car we had to push start it to get it up but I drove it a little over a 100 miles back home without a problem but didn't turn the car off due to me being worried it wouldn't start up again. so obviously im getting spark and fuel and am running. matter of why it wont start is another problem. and when we are talking about a 100 mile drive, that's an hour and 45 minute drive and scraping up the highway. Last edited by ashero2; 04-22-2015 at 11:26 AM..

04-20-2015, 01:03 PM	#2
angel mkiv Zilvia Addict Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Seattle, wa Posts: 727 Trader Rating: (4) Feedback Score: 4 reviews	Check the connections at the starter and make sure there right, then if so hook up a test light on the starter solenoid wire and see if when your turn the key it's getting power.if it is then replace the starter..also try hitting it with a hammer and see if it breaks the starter free. __________________ Instagram username:angelmkiv

04-21-2015, 09:45 AM	#4
pacotaco345 Zilvia FREAK! Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: SoCal/Ft Worth TX Age: 31 Posts: 1,563 Trader Rating: (5) Feedback Score: 5 reviews	Wait what? The ignition switch should be compatible with whatever motor you want to put in your car... even a LS/2J etc. You probably have a blown fuse or are missing a ground somewhere if the motor isn't even turning over. Also, I see you live in lemoore.. Sorry bout ya __________________

04-21-2015, 06:03 PM	#6
92SEric240sx Zilvia Addict Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: The VA Posts: 620 Trader Rating: (32) Feedback Score: 32 reviews	hey man- if it's a manual check if the rubber nub is still on the clutch pedal- There is an interlock that prevents it from starting if this little piece is missing the switch will not get depressed. This or replace the ignition __________________ RELAX BRO!!!!

04-20-2015, 06:23 PM	#3
ashero2 Leaky Injector Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Lemoore, CA Age: 34 Posts: 70 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	aite will do tomorrow. I asked the guy did he replace the starter and ignition or kept the KA set and put them on the SR. he says its a replaced starter and he kept the ignition off the KA and put it on the swap. I was wondering about that if the starter ignition from a KA would be compatible with a SR and still looking to see if it is or not.

04-21-2015, 05:40 PM	#5
ashero2 Leaky Injector Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Lemoore, CA Age: 34 Posts: 70 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	nah I was wondering if a KA starter is compatible with a SR. im checking fuses tomorrow. got under the car to check the starter and it seems ok. connections were there and all but I didn't have a test light to test the solenoid. still nothing click or anything. tapped it a couple times with a wrench also and still nothing. sourcing out now to possibly just get a new starter for it. just to make sure tho, for the starter there was one plug that connected onto it and another big line that looked like was screwed onto it and that's it. is this correct? ill post a pic after work and yea Lemoore sucks.....but its w.e. its the military

04-21-2015, 08:32 PM	#7
kashira kureijii Zilvia FREAK! Join Date: Dec 2013 Location: nation of Texas Age: 29 Posts: 1,302 Trader Rating: (4) Feedback Score: 4 reviews	If there is no clicking, and you have verified that it is not a fuse or relay, check the wiring for the plugs near the battery tray, there are people out there that don't know shit, and could have wired the swap wrong. If you don't wire those plugs correctly (or just plugged the plugs in from the sr into the ka plugs), the car will act as you said, with accessory stuff getting power but no turnover or clicking at all. check the wiring here v most of it is color to color vvv http://www.frsport.com/SR20DET-Swap-...SR20_t_26.html Shouldn't get a new starter until you have verified that that was done correctly

04-21-2015, 08:43 PM	#8
The High & Mighty Zilvia Junkie Join Date: May 2010 Location: Valencia, California Posts: 518 Trader Rating: (43) Feedback Score: 43 reviews	Time to bust out the digital multimeter and check for power and ground, do some voltage drop, continuity tests. check the basics first, fuses. good luck shipmate.

04-21-2015, 08:58 PM	#9
Rob238449 Join Date: Oct 2013 Location: Havelock Age: 37 Posts: 24 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	If you have a Multi-Meter check Continuity from chassis to starter NEG Post. for good ground. Check Voltage at POS Post on Starter. I've seen REMAN starters out of the box be faulty because of solenoids. Start with the basics and double check the wiring IAW the FSM.

04-22-2015, 11:20 AM	#12
ashero2 Leaky Injector Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Lemoore, CA Age: 34 Posts: 70 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	thanks everyone for the inputs. ill keep looking into the car more. didn't have time yesterday to do anything. I made a quick update and background so that way it can lessen the possibilities and be more specific

04-27-2015, 06:21 PM	#13
ashero2 Leaky Injector Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Lemoore, CA Age: 34 Posts: 70 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	got the car to start now. found out the ignition relay might be bad. had the 500 cca battery hooked up and it seemed it might be a little weak also. just wondering what is the normal cca for an sr20?