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Old 08-25-2004, 09:56 AM   #1
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For those of you with batteries in your trunk

Hello, I bought a battery relocation kit from summit and when I was reading the instructions, I realized that they wanted me to drill holes in the trunk floor. I looked and saw how close the fuel tank sits to where they want you to put holes. I was just wondering where you guys drilled holes, or if you even did. Or did you come up with some other great idea on how to secure the battery in the trunk? Please post some pictures for clarification. Thanks!

p.s. I have a SOHC KA24 and tranny (new clutch, 80k) for sale if anyone is interested along with the whole A/C system from a SOHC 240, and the radiatior. If you are interested and live in the Twin Cities area (Minnesota), e-mail me with a reason able offer, and they are yours ([email protected]). I need them out of my garage ASAP!
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Old 08-25-2004, 10:15 AM   #2
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if you crawl under the rear of your car you can see that the fuel tank is actually kinda forward of the rear of the trunk, leaving you space enough to drill a few holes
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Old 08-25-2004, 10:38 AM   #3
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well i mounted mine to the far left of the trunk on my 92 coupe,(drivers side). its clear from the gas tank, and located right above ur exhaust. if you have ur stock exhaust you might want to unbolt it, or if your arms are long and skinny enough, you might be able to reach the underside to make adjustments.

i've had mine back thre for going on 2 years now. ill take pictures if you need em.
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Old 08-25-2004, 11:08 AM   #4
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^^^^ take pics man.. my battery is held down with a spare tire..hehhe
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Old 08-25-2004, 11:38 AM   #5
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i believe my setup is the best from the above mentioned....

First i know that to offset the drivers weight is the best, and because the gas tank is centrally located in the car you cant consider its placement, therefore the best place would be on the passenger side. I mounted mine right behind the strut tower on the pass. side and instead of drilling through the ground i drilled a hole in the side of the battery box and then in the side of the wheel well. then simply threaded a nut and bolt through it and it holds wayyyy better than those stupid clips and straps they include. I didnt get the summit relocation kit instead i got the $8 battery box from oreillys. This works great and ive never had any problems with it. ill get some pics up soon im actually in the process of finishing spot welding my trunk and spraying it all with rhino-lining. the battery fits perfect in the corner there and the bolt doesnt get in the way of any wires, lines, tanks, or your wheel on the other side. any questions PM me or email me.
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Old 08-25-2004, 11:45 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by INeedNewTires
i believe my setup is the best from the above mentioned....

First i know that to offset the drivers weight is the best, and because the gas tank is centrally located in the car you cant consider its placement, therefore the best place would be on the passenger side. I mounted mine right behind the strut tower on the pass. side and instead of drilling through the ground i drilled a hole in the side of the battery box and then in the side of the wheel well. then simply threaded a nut and bolt through it and it holds wayyyy better than those stupid clips and straps they include. I didnt get the summit relocation kit instead i got the $8 battery box from oreillys. This works great and ive never had any problems with it. ill get some pics up soon im actually in the process of finishing spot welding my trunk and spraying it all with rhino-lining. the battery fits perfect in the corner there and the bolt doesnt get in the way of any wires, lines, tanks, or your wheel on the other side. any questions PM me or email me.

OT: isn't rhino lining really heavy? or am I thinking of another coating?
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Old 08-25-2004, 12:10 PM   #7
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passenger side of an s14... 4 of them. enjoy if i have to say anymore u shouldnt be allowed to own ur car
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Old 08-26-2004, 06:03 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theronin
passenger side of an s14... 4 of them. enjoy if i have to say anymore u shouldnt be allowed to own ur car
Yep.....I agree totally. Passenger side of the S14 has four existing threaded holes...what thay are for I don't know. I do know that they serve is a GREAT purpose for mounitng battery boxes...just have to drill holes n the box.....mount...done.

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Old 08-25-2004, 01:21 PM   #9
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yoshi, yes but actually im using the spray can version called "truck bed coating" and im spraying it thinner than its supposed to be so no it wont be that heavy, maby 10lbs total, probably less though
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Old 08-26-2004, 11:54 AM   #10
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yeah, post some pix.
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Old 08-26-2004, 05:00 PM   #11
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I drilled 2 holes on the fartherst back location on the passenger side. It clears the gas tank by about 6-8".

I used 2 12" 3/8 fully threaded bolts with lock nuts + washers. I also drilled into the trunk for the little plastic clips that hold the strap on. That battery isn't going anywhere.... It's been 2 problem-less weeks.
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Old 08-26-2004, 06:00 PM   #12
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Well I will take pics but I ahve a 95 Silvia and I mounted mine right on the flat part in the trunk about 7 inches from the Fuel pump cover. I drilled 2 holes and just used a normal battery holder and some Hummer slave cables as a positive and negative leads. I had 2 9/16 bolts to screw the leads down to the side post of the optima and it is grounded in the trunk. I will get pictures at lunch time.
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Old 08-27-2004, 01:31 AM   #13
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actually I mounted mine with tie down brackets screwed into a false wood floor I have covering my entire truck and wheel well....works fine no probs as of yet. Couple of stereo amps now sit in the wheel well quite comfortably...
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Old 08-27-2004, 11:48 AM   #14
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there was actually a thread about this a couple weeks ago.

but anyway if the fuel tank gets in the way its not too hard to drop it.
unless the hardware is a solid blob of rust like mine.
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Old 12-12-2004, 08:42 PM   #15
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Any updates on this?

Can anyone post anymore pics they have of their setup? Im about to order a summit racing kit.
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Old 12-13-2004, 12:59 AM   #16
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I have the taylor kit on my car.My battery box and the battery itself are securely bloted down.I used the long ass studs that came with the kit drilled through my frame rail and bolted it on like that.My box is mounted on the driver side btw.
real clean and NHRA approved

only con its a biatch to remove the battery now
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Old 12-13-2004, 04:57 AM   #17
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i bought the battery box from autozone, if you look under the passengerside there lite a vent box for the fuel tank remove all that and drill holes from the top, i used some hood cusions to keep the battery off the floor and bolted on its very secure, cant take pictures till wedsday, my cars in the shop....
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Old 12-13-2004, 12:06 PM   #18
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Quote:
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i bought the battery box from autozone, if you look under the passengerside there lite a vent box for the fuel tank remove all that and drill holes from the top, i used some hood cusions to keep the battery off the floor and bolted on its very secure, cant take pictures till wedsday, my cars in the shop....
Only thing is...Im lazy. I wanted the easiest way possible to relocate.

I cant seem to find any pics of people's setups.
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Old 12-13-2004, 07:51 AM   #19
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why not just run the wires through the car instead of under it. much easier and safer.
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Old 12-13-2004, 11:38 AM   #20
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Fire in your car or fire outside near the fuel?

Battery relocation is risky business.
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Old 12-13-2004, 03:14 PM   #21
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I thought about battery relocation, but since I don't have a booming stereo system or anything, I'm just going to get a smaller battery. Like the one from PDM.
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Old 12-13-2004, 03:54 PM   #22
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If you have a sealed type battery, like an Optima, buying a relocation kit is a waste of money. You can buy a plate from any auto parts store, and enough wire from a welding supplier or a stereo installation facility and save money, plus most battery boxes are very large and take up more room. If you do not have a sealed battery, it's highly recommended not to mount it inside the vehicle unless you're using a vented type box that actually seals airtight and lets gases escape under the car.

On either car, it's best to mount it on the passenger side, it offsets the weight of the driver and allows for less wire run overall. As already implied, S14s have a perfect place with bolts already existing to mount to, the bolts are there to secure the floorpan to the framerail before final assembly, you can remove them without worry of any harm. S13s can be put more towards the tail of the car, or against the shock tower, either place is fine and unless you're using 2 inch bolts/screws you're not going to hit the tank. The fuel pump access panel should be avoided though.

Running the wire inside or out is up to the owner, I prefer going outside because there's less work to get the wire through the car, you avoid a bulge in the carpet, and the brakeline makes a perfect place to tie to, tucked behind the framerail and hidden from view or damage. Plus running the power wire near the ECU may introduce feedback/noise into the engine's operating system, depending on age/condition of the car. Both cars have access plugs in the back to run the wire through.
A good coat of rubberized undercoating after the wire is installed will provide even better protection and keep it dry and corrosion free.
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Old 12-13-2004, 11:25 PM   #23
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Quote:
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I thought about battery relocation, but since I don't have a booming stereo system or anything, I'm just going to get a smaller battery. Like the one from PDM.
If I wouldnt have bought this custom intake, I wouldnt even be messing with it at all.

I could just buy a regular intake...but Im very curious with the throttle of this custom one, so I think Im gonna chance the relocation kit. Im also tired of trying to go the "cheap" way out (not cheaper, but the cheap way). Especially with my limited auto repair/knowledge/experience. I want it done the right way, first. So the kit is the best thing for ME.
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Old 12-13-2004, 03:52 PM   #24
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My welding cables just came in today and the battery tray came in on Saturday, so I am going to do some work in the trunk today and tomorrow.
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Old 12-13-2004, 10:41 PM   #25
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this is the one I got.
Simple design and its hard to go wrong with the price.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...category=33575
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Old 12-14-2004, 01:38 AM   #26
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sorry to dissapoint you, but the box in the summit kit sux.
the cables are ok, but nothing to get excited over.
If you want to do it right, get some welding cable 30bux shipped for 20feet on ebay and DO IT the right way.
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Old 12-14-2004, 08:15 AM   #27
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sorry to dissapoint you, but the box in the summit kit sux.
the cables are ok, but nothing to get excited over.
If you want to do it right, get some welding cable 30bux shipped for 20feet on ebay and DO IT the right way.
What about just ordering the cable kit then? $34 shipped.

http://store.summitracing.com/defaul...2D42168+302081

Are the summit boxes worse than a box from and auto parts store? I think they are like $10, so all-in-all it would be like $45.
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Old 12-14-2004, 09:59 AM   #28
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welding cable is better.
its not stiff at all. and 1 gauge is about 1/2in of copper (not including the shielding)
From what I have seen, the cable they use is a lot stiffer than that.
And the cost is about the same.
I got 16feet of red and 5feet of black with lugs for just over 30bux shipped.
But if you want the kit, get the 1 gauge one.
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Old 12-16-2004, 11:12 AM   #29
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I am almost done with my install. but the SR isn't in yet.
I am planning on running the cable from battery to the starter.
BUT
what about those 2 plugs that are on the positive side of the battery?
will they reach the starter???
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Old 12-16-2004, 01:03 PM   #30
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summit relocation kit sucks real bad. The way the box mounts is horrible, cheap, and not safe. The cables are low quality and way overpriced.
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