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Motorsports and Skilled Driving Discussion for Organized Racing and motorsports and tips and techniques at becoming a better driver. |
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#1 |
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![]() I stopped by home depot on the way home from school tonight and picked up a few things that looked like they would go good on the car. For 20 bux I got driver and passanger seat covers, brake ducts and a big thing of assorted zip ties from 3" to 11"
![]() Seat covers are really 20"x5' sheets of shelf liner. Great for those damn leather seats. ![]() Cut small holes for the headrest polls and tucked it underneath at the front. ![]() I may do random trimming so it doesn't look like ass so much, but it works great for now. It doesn't slip at all and neither do I. It makes it a little harder to get in and out of the car though, since I can no longer pivot on my butt to swing my legs out the door. They are in just for testing now, will normally be removed for street driving. I have been sliding the seat back a bit, locking the seatbelt, and then sliding the seat up into the belt to hold tight like a harness. This combined with the new seat covers and I really don't move at all. For the ducts, 6' of 3" dryer hose. I couldn't find any sort of flange thing for the end, but with a 3" hose, I doubt it will be needed. ![]() It's not 6' in that pic, it's like those trick snakes, it will fold down to about 3'. Should be more than enough fully extended for ducting on both sides, 3' each side. I plan to entirely remove my dust sheilds and use a combo of my new zip ties and duct tape to make it go where I want. I'll post back when I get it done. Anybody else have cool ghetto racer mods...please share
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#2 |
Zilvia Junkie
![]() Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Minneapolis, MN
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last time I went to the drag strip I hid my battery in the spare tire well because I didn't have a box or cut-off switch for it. Then I put a little lawnmower battery I had laying around where the stock battery went (it barely fit with the intercooler pipes) with 1ft wires on it going down somewhere, but not hooked to anything. So that saved me about $100 because I didn't have to buy the battery box kit and stuff. I can't fit a regular battery in the stock location because the intercooler pipes go there.
Did you want illegal mods posted? I use tube couplers from home depot too, 2.25" piping and the metal band ones fit great. I really like the seat cover plan, good thing I don't have leather.
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Adam '89 coupe KA24DE+T 14.1 @ 104 MPH '88 Celica All-Trac turbo stock, but no more ecu codes!! |
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#3 |
Nissanaholic!
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ducting is definitely the cheapest and most common racer mod that i know of. other than i guess just ripping **** outa the car to reduce weight, cause that's free. removal of resonator box on the intake is also common. changing all fluids and upgrading to those with higher temperature tolerances/better lubrication is another. bracing is pretty common. stb's can be had for as little as $30, and most places really don't care if you have them or not. that's about all i got for now. i'm sure i could think of more if it was mid-season.
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#4 |
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Near the freeway
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I've added two nylon spacers for my hood. They extend teh hood upwards near the windshield (if you're familiar with Koguchi-san's 180SX). Costed me 3 bucks and it serves the same purpose and a vented hood. Well, for me at least, the motor's heat can escape through the gap. My KA runs very hot.
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Straightaways are for fast cars. Corners are for fast drivers. |
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#7 | ||
Join Date: Nov 2002
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Quote:
Quote:
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Straightaways are for fast cars. Corners are for fast drivers. Last edited by Oversteer14; 01-18-2003 at 05:38 AM.. |
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#8 |
Nissanaholic!
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What is the point of running ducts like that into your car? (unless DSC just laid the tubing in his car to show us what the tubing looked like).
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Lauren '91 300ZX TT Ultra Red 5-speed - JWT POPCharger, JUN flywheel, ACT clutch, Energy Suspension Bushings, Tokico Blues - dyno'ed 295hp/306tq '94 300ZX TT Black Emerald Pearl 5-speed - JWT POPCharger, JWT ECU w/ Stillen chip, Stillen exhaust, Tokico Blues, Eibach ProKits, 18" Enkei RP-01 wheels - dyno'ed 333hp/385tq '00 WS6 Trans Am Bright Red 6-speedFOR SALE - only 29k miles, stock, fully loaded, only $23,999 (NADA $26300) Green Country Motorsports Northeastern Oklahoma SCCA |
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#14 | |
Zilvia Junkie
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Anyway, just using that word is one of the funiest things I have ever heard. We all thought it was a race track.
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Adam '89 coupe KA24DE+T 14.1 @ 104 MPH '88 Celica All-Trac turbo stock, but no more ecu codes!! |
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#15 | |
I hate you too...
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Sorry.. I don't have racer mods except the normal: awesome fluids and lubricants, tune-up, and replacing bushings/adding subframe spacers. I mainly came here to clean that crap up. -Jeff
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#17 |
Autox Technician
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travis' sig makes his car look like he's got chrome fender lining on his left front fender
![]() Anyways, on with the post: 1. I'm wondering how much weight you'd save taking out something like the windsheild washer fluid resivoir. I was thinking about tapping a cap for one of the bottles you can buy the stuff in, and running a hose to the trunk of the car where I'd have the bottle strapped in place. Then just unscrew the cap and take the bottle out when going to an event on a sunny day. 2. Does anyone else lay the back seat and passenger seat as far down as possible to try and pretend like you have a lower CG when you do that?? 3. I bought some intake hose from Pepboys. It was on sale for like $2, for a length of 4" flexi- hose. I used it to make a "ghetto" cold air intake, leaving the filter in the stock position and running hoses from the filter down to the fender area. I could sort of feel a difference.... but that was while I was still NA. 4. I was wondering... if "leaner is meaner"... if you could bore out the stock MAF a bit to try and lean out the stock fuel curve.... I suppose using a very small resistor on the MAF signal wire might do the same thing.... maybe I'll try that out on my friend's car ![]() Finally: DSC: why not keep the stock dust sheilds and cut a hole in them to mount the ducting to?? There should be an equivolant sized duct flange (for where you aim the duct out a window in normal use) that you could rivet to the dust sheild.
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