Wheel Fitment Question Thread

[xoxide]

Fortune's.


Going down tommorow to pickup some XD9's 18x9.5 +20... Hopefully they clear without spacers.

[HipHopHippo]

when i bought my car, the previous owner had megan track coils on it. Right after I got it I swapped them for my pbms. The wheels on it are 17x9 +26 all the way around, and you could run them with the megan coils with just one slip on spacer and clear the coils, but with the pbms I have to run +25 spacers in the front to get them to not scrape the coils. What am I missing here?

[fliprayzin240sx]

Originally Posted by xoxide

Fortune's.


Going down tommorow to pickup some XD9's 18x9.5 +20... Hopefully they clear without spacers.

Should fit, I just stuck my finger between my wheels 500s, and I have about 1-1/4" gap. Looking at tire calculator, your setup will have about 12mm less clearance than what I got, should still give you a few mm to clear.

Originally Posted by HipHopHippo

when i bought my car, the previous owner had megan track coils on it. Right after I got it I swapped them for my pbms. The wheels on it are 17x9 +26 all the way around, and you could run them with the megan coils with just one slip on spacer and clear the coils, but with the pbms I have to run +25 spacers in the front to get them to not scrape the coils. What am I missing here?

Like I said, all depends on the suspension. Shock/strut thickness, collar size, spring length/size, wheel sizing all plays into wheel clearance up front when its really close. When i had MR's I had the opposite issue. I had to run 15mm spacers to clear the front on some 17x10 +12. At the height my car was, the wheels were touching the collars, they were right on the rim lip. If I raised the car, and the collars are higher up, I wouldnt need the spacers.

[xoxide]

Alright cool...

Next stupid question,

Looking to run a 225/40 on the rear, that should clear the fender without a pull... What about a 225/45? Thats what I have right now, and cheap 40's seem impossible to come by at the moment.

[fliprayzin240sx]

Originally Posted by xoxide

Alright cool...

Next stupid question,

Looking to run a 225/40 on the rear, that should clear the fender without a pull... What about a 225/45? Thats what I have right now, and cheap 40's seem impossible to come by at the moment.

If you already got the 45s, just run with them. I'm running 225/40-18s up front and 235/40-18s in the rear. If the rear lips are flat already, should fit, worst case, add some more camber if you dont wanna pull the fenders anymore.

[xoxide]

Originally Posted by fliprayzin240sx

If you already got the 45s, just run with them. I'm running 225/40-18s up front and 235/40-18s in the rear. If the rear lips are flat already, should fit, worst case, add some more camber if you dont wanna pull the fenders anymore.

Yeah, they were near new KDW's for $20 bucks so I scooped them.... I just dont like the profile of 45's right now, but it could also be the beefy look the 8.5 gives it right now (my current Z wheels)... We'll see.

[xoxide]

Alright so im stumped on this one...


Trying to mount 215/40's on a 9.5... I cannot for the life of me get the back of the beads to stop leaking. Tried remounting like 5 times, and the back of the beads still leak air from a few spots. Got the leaks to stop, then set the car down on the ground, they started leaking again....

Knock on wood- the rears (225/40's on 9.5's), are holding air no problem.


Any ideas?

Work Emotion XD9's in white.

[greatwhitebuffalo]

Make sure the wheel and tire are both clean, make sure there are no tears or cuts in the tire. Raise pressure to 65-80 psi, lower back to 50.

[xoxide]

^Done all that multiple times.

[greatwhitebuffalo]

I would guess there is something wrong with the tire. I've had 205/40s on 9.5s that seated with no problems.

[xoxide]

I didn't have any problem with them seating on a 8.5... Granted its way less stretch, but still?

[fliprayzin240sx]

Depends on how old the tire is too. Stretching a used tire that wasnt stretched can be iffy sometimes.

[xoxide]

I bought them about 8-10 months ago.

[fliprayzin240sx]

Originally Posted by xoxide

I bought them about 8-10 months ago.

Yah, if they've been mounted on non-stretched setup for that long and probably have hardened so they're not cooperating.

[xoxide]

So is there any way to persuade them to cooperate? Lol

[RHDAmerica]

Yes. Try these options. All have worked for us in the past.

1) Check for molding nipples on the bead, if they are there take a razor blade to all of them and make a nice smooth surface.
2) Once the tire is seated to the bead lay the wheel down on a blanket face first and smack the back of the tire with a rubber mallet, if there is any debris in there it will blow it out.
3) Buy a can of "bead sealer" if you can't find any go to a local tire shop and they should have some you can buy, it will come with a brush, I recommend putting a decent amount around the wheel where the bead seats to and then try airing it up.

This will usually guarantee a nice tight seal, also try leaving them out in the sun for a day at 65psi, then come down to 45psi. I would never recommend going to 80psi on a stretch tire, that's ridiculous and putting yourself in danger. I have seen them explode at higher pressures like that.

I would also check the DOT's the tires should be no older than 2008 as of this year. The DOT will be located usually on 1 side of the tire only and always on the sidewall close to the bead, there will be a bunch of random numbers and letters and then a (4) digit number at the end. I.E. "1310" This means the tire was manufactured on the 13th week of 2010. The older a tire gets the harder the compound can be and more likely to wear out quicker, or blow out. Doesn't mean it will, but odds are not in your favor the older a tire gets.

GL to you.

[xoxide]

^Thanks for the tips... I guess I may take a run up to discount or somewhere monday and see if they cant get it to seal for me... Its just weird how difficult they are being.

[fliprayzin240sx]

Are you using a cheetah to get it to bead?

[xoxide]

No.... Just mounting the tire, and then hooking up the air into the valve stem, its seating just fine.

[fliprayzin240sx]

Cheetah should do it, see if you got somebody who could blast it for you.

[RHDAmerica]

Originally Posted by xoxide

No.... Just mounting the tire, and then hooking up the air into the valve stem, its seating just fine.

If you are getting the tire to seat with just air then you must have a very small drop center. I would normally recommend getting a cheetah as well, but if what you're doing is working, then that's fine. Also taking out the valve core can help to get air into the tire quicker. Try that if you have a valve core remover.

[revat619]

Anybody have experience with a 205/40/18 on a 9.5 and a 225/40/18 on a 10.5? Is it sketchy?

Trying to decide between that or a 215/40 and 245/35 set up.

[RHDAmerica]

Originally Posted by revat619

Anybody have experience with a 205/40/18 on a 9.5 and a 225/40/18 on a 10.5? Is it sketchy?

Trying to decide between that or a 215/40 and 245/35 set up.

The first option is going to be super tough to stretch and your second option is not quite proportioned correctly, also the 245/35 is a very hard size to find, especially in a decent price.

I would recommend you go with a 215/40 and 235/40. That would have a ton of stretch and look pretty even.

[revat619]

Originally Posted by RHDAmerica

The first option is going to be super tough to stretch and your second option is not quite proportioned correctly, also the 245/35 is a very hard size to find, especially in a decent price.

I would recommend you go with a 215/40 and 235/40. That would have a ton of stretch and look pretty even.

235/40 is much much taller than 215/40 and looks rather ballooned on a 10.5 from the examples i've seen. 245/35 is shorter and proportionally much closer to 215/40 as far as overall diameter and sidewall height. They're available in the Hankook V12's that i currently run as well as the Yokohama S-drives that i've thought about running, so finding them isn't a problem. I run 255/35 in the rear right now so i'm not really concerned about price either.

[RHDAmerica]

All good then, I've been doing this for about 7 years now and I'm just giving you my personal experience of what people look for in a stretched tire setup.

Either way you go GL sir.

[angel mkiv]

Hey I have a s13 with z32 brakes all around and am getting the work meister s1 3p and want to know for the front if the L disk would fit or R disk only..I'm only asking because I want a 18x9.0 wheel with the max amount of lip and the R disk at +5 only gives 83mm of lip and the L disk at +4 gives 96mm..?

[Khoda]

18x11 - 27
18x12.5 - 18
245 35 18
285 30 18

Front 3.7 camber
Rear 2.7 camber

Anything is possible.

[fliprayzin240sx]

Originally Posted by angel mkiv

Hey I have a s13 with z32 brakes all around and am getting the work meister s1 3p and want to know for the front if the L disk would fit or R disk only..I'm only asking because I want a 18x9.0 wheel with the max amount of lip and the R disk at +5 only gives 83mm of lip and the L disk at +4 gives 96mm..?

If you run the L-disk, you'd more than likely need some spacers. I'd say atleast 5mm to as much as 8-10mm.

Originally Posted by Khoda

18x11 - 27
18x12.5 - 18
245 35 18
285 30 18

Front 3.7 camber
Rear 2.7 camber

Anything is possible.

Congrats that you managed to put them on. Good luck parking in tight parking lots and enjoy them 20 point U-turns, bet it'll make a great drag car since all you can do is go straight.

[Khoda]

Originally Posted by fliprayzin240sx

If you run the L-disk, you'd more than likely need some spacers. I'd say atleast 5mm to as much as 8-10mm.



Congrats that you managed to put them on. Good luck parking in tight parking lots and enjoy them 20 point U-turns, bet it'll make a great drag car since all you can do is go straight.

Again not true... You did say that the rear would never fit and blah blah blah. but I was not putting this up for you, just to show people that if there is a will there is a way! 20 point you turns... meh like 1.5 ish point haha

but again, im going to tub the front and ill slide it and post some pics for yah

[fliprayzin240sx]

Originally Posted by Khoda

Again not true... You did say that the rear would never fit and blah blah blah. but I was not putting this up for you, just to show people that if there is a will there is a way! 20 point you turns... meh like 1.5 ish point haha

but again, im going to tub the front and ill slide it and post some pics for yah

Haha...good luck on that one. Even tubbing it, all you can do is tub the front of the wheel well. You'd have to add alot of caster to give you clearance on the back/firewall side of the wheel well even after tubbing it.

While you're at it, you might wanna relocate the wiring harnesses inside the engine bay, tucking it with those wheels and that low, you'll eat your harness right where its coming out of the hole.