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Old 01-13-2005, 10:14 PM   #1
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Ebay SUBFRAME BUSHINGS 3$-20$

I am just wondering if anybody has tried these subframe bushings?
I got a set for 23$ usd including shipping to Canada.

Are they junk or did I get a good deal

http://motors.search.ebay.com/_W0QQsassZjtmotoring


ones i bought
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tem=7947071540
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Old 01-13-2005, 10:18 PM   #2
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have fun dropping your subframe
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Old 01-13-2005, 10:20 PM   #3
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no slots, fuck that!
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Old 01-13-2005, 10:32 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TokyoNights
no slots, fuck that!
Sawzall + two minutes=slots.
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Old 01-13-2005, 11:12 PM   #5
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Thanks R24ONA
I am just wondering about the quality..the price was pretty low
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Old 01-13-2005, 11:20 PM   #6
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Bill25... what part of canada u in?
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Old 01-13-2005, 11:31 PM   #7
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If those are nylon would you really need a damn sawzall?
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Old 01-13-2005, 11:36 PM   #8
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Bing
Montreal Quebec,,
I am in Toronto to visit my sister and family often though.
I bought the 240 in Mississauga,to much rust on Quebec cars
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Old 01-13-2005, 11:36 PM   #9
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Not sure I agree with the $175 MSRP.......uhhh. But......the DIY slots would make these things okay to try, as long as you didnt fug them up too much slotting them. I'd try it....for as inexpensive as they seem.

For the guys who have the slotted aluminum version of these.......how wide does the slot have to be?


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Old 01-13-2005, 11:38 PM   #10
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yeah..second that. $20 shipped plus 2 minutes of bandsaw usage, and you have $80 or whatever worth of parts...theres not much to them, if they fit (which mine did), then you're set. I haven't driven on em yet though
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Old 01-13-2005, 11:43 PM   #11
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Bah now youre bootleging shit
I use aluminum anyway, the nylon are for pussies
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Old 01-13-2005, 11:57 PM   #12
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Mine were cheap and are polyurethane i believe, i didnt make slots in em. pain in the ass to drop the subframe, but they work very well. make slots in em if u dont want to spend time/have the tools to adjust the subframe back into place.
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Old 01-13-2005, 11:59 PM   #13
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o ya, heres an up-close pic to the ones you/i bought

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Old 01-14-2005, 12:03 AM   #14
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i wanted to try these out also coz it's soo cheap compared to the aluminum ones... i'm all 15 bux for shipping + cost. doesn't sound too bad.... does it seem durable? is the material softer than aluminum? make sure to let us know how they are. i ended up gettin aluminum ones.
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Old 01-14-2005, 12:05 AM   #15
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Ive used em for a while now and they're very durable. They're probably softer if not the same as aluminum. im very happy with them especially for the price..
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Old 01-14-2005, 12:36 AM   #16
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BEWARE OF CHEAP ALUMINUM

BUSHINGS; THEY ARE KNOWN TO

CAUSE LOUD CLUNKING NOISE!


Hahahah what a joke, i guess that guy has never driven a race car before, or heard a new LSD working.
he would probably think he car is falling apart.

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Old 01-14-2005, 01:15 AM   #17
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why is it hard to drop subframe??
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Old 01-14-2005, 03:34 AM   #18
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The top ones are kind of a biatch to install if they are not slotted. The bottoms go on in seconds. I have the delrin ones and so far so good. It took a bit of slop out of the rear end, less wheel hop too.
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Old 01-14-2005, 04:39 AM   #19
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I have these same spacers. I slotted the top ones (very easy). They work well and do not make any noise (beware of those loud aluminum ones - haha).

Although I am not sure they compress the bushings as much as other spacers do. Has anyone taken measurements?
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Old 01-14-2005, 07:12 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by downshift180
why is it hard to drop subframe??
It's not hard, just involved, and when you raise it back up it always likes to stick on one end, nice to have an extra set of hands at the least.
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Old 01-14-2005, 10:39 AM   #21
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oic thx..20 minutes or less ey? how would i slot them...? becuase i won these on ebay yesterday
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Old 01-14-2005, 11:39 AM   #22
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use a pearing knife and have at it
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Old 01-14-2005, 12:05 PM   #23
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Quote:
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oic thx..20 minutes or less ey? how would i slot them...? becuase i won these on ebay yesterday
If they're urethane or something softer, use a hacksaw. Cut a section about an inch wide.

Go under the car, support the diff with a floorjack, unbolt all four points and lower it slightly, slide the top bushings in, raise it back up and place the lower ones in with the attaching hardware, tighten, go drive it.

Literally 20 minutes.
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Old 01-14-2005, 12:47 PM   #24
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R24ONA & All Thanks for the responses and advice.
So based on the response I think I got my 23$ bucks worth

PEPPERONI: thanks for the pics,,they look way better that the stock ones I currently ride on
I think I am going to buy another set for my friend

89s132b:Pretty much what I wanted to hear,,,did you use any lube like the kind that comes with energy suspension products?Any squeeking sounds ?
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Old 01-14-2005, 02:45 PM   #25
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dropping subframe aint chit mang!! Get the ride on a lift and go to town. Can do all the work while standing. Did mines like that. Aluminun non-c notched. BTW, you can tell the diff in poly/notched vs nonotch vs aluminum/notch vs nonotch alum. As for all the morons who want you to go ahead and cut your brand new bushings, flip them a quick one cus they're full of chit. I'm not going to get too deep into it, but what's stronger/more stable, a full circle or a line where the ends meet.

Last but not least, if you never see track time, nevermind me.
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Old 01-14-2005, 03:16 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by s14slide
dropping subframe aint chit mang!! Get the ride on a lift and go to town. Can do all the work while standing. Did mines like that. Aluminun non-c notched. BTW, you can tell the diff in poly/notched vs nonotch vs aluminum/notch vs nonotch alum. As for all the morons who want you to go ahead and cut your brand new bushings, flip them a quick one cus they're full of chit. I'm not going to get too deep into it, but what's stronger/more stable, a full circle or a line where the ends meet.

Last but not least, if you never see track time, nevermind me.
AGREED!!!!
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Old 01-15-2005, 12:24 AM   #27
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So is aluminum really that much rougher and clunks that bad?
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Old 01-15-2005, 05:02 AM   #28
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thx well immah try not cutting them but thx so ill know next time.
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Old 01-16-2005, 11:31 PM   #29
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i have both aluminum and those plastic collars for my car. got the aluminums for 50 and the blue plastics for 30. the aluminum seem to be of a higher quality and design, so i'll prolly use the aluminum ones for my car and slot the plastic ones to go into my dads r32. here's a side-by-side comparison of the two. the slot is exactly 1inch accross if anyone wants to know.
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Old 01-17-2005, 12:55 AM   #30
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nice side by side pic.
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