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Old 10-23-2005, 05:02 PM   #1
ultravietnam
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How do i compress/decompress my rear brakes?

i'm replacing my rear pads and now it seems like the piston is fully extended out. Making it impossible for me to fit the calipers and the new pads over the rotors.

PLEASE help...
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Old 10-23-2005, 05:05 PM   #2
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Needle nose pliers.

Place the tips in the grooves on the piston and turn. There is an actual tool to do this, but needle nose work just as well, and most people have them in their tool boxes.
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Old 10-23-2005, 05:24 PM   #3
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It helps if you take the cap off the brake master cylinder reservoir too. Just keep turning the piston (I like using flathead screwdrivers) until it compresses back in.
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Old 10-23-2005, 05:56 PM   #4
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does it normally take forever??....i'm turning it...and its either compressing real slow...or not at all.....thanks..
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Old 10-23-2005, 05:56 PM   #5
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the rear calipers got me too when i first worked on them. They screw in and out rather than just push in/out.
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Old 10-23-2005, 05:58 PM   #6
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also....clockwise or counterclockwise?
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Old 10-23-2005, 06:40 PM   #7
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clockwise

0qoknmt20igdfvfd
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Old 10-24-2005, 09:47 AM   #8
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thanks guys...
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Old 10-24-2005, 11:04 AM   #9
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you're welcome
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Old 10-24-2005, 11:27 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ultravietnam
does it normally take forever??....i'm turning it...and its either compressing real slow...or not at all.....thanks..

Yup it takes forever basically. I've been turning mine for 7 months.

JK, but yea it does take awhile.
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Old 10-24-2005, 01:48 PM   #11
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when they get hard to turn...its time to get remani ones...i had that problem. I'm like..WTF?#$ its not turning!...ended up being siezed.
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Old 10-24-2005, 02:30 PM   #12
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me too, when i first work on my brakes, i even don't know when can i finish turning it, LOL
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Old 10-24-2005, 03:09 PM   #13
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well its back to turning that piston. hahaha decided to call it a night last night... hopefully i can get one side done today, at least.
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Old 10-24-2005, 03:38 PM   #14
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I bought this for a few dollars, makes it a hell of a lot easier than using the needle nose pliers

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Old 10-24-2005, 04:31 PM   #15
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where did you buy that tool/bit from? holy hell, i finally got one side.... but yeah, do tell me what that things "official" name is so i can find one for either the other side or for future uses.
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Old 10-24-2005, 04:57 PM   #16
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check your pm's
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Old 10-24-2005, 05:36 PM   #17
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they also have the more universal one shaped like a box...did you take the BMC cap off? shouldnt really be a two nite thing...it also helps sometimes to twist with pliers and simultaneously push down mms at a time with a c-clamp...
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Old 10-24-2005, 06:21 PM   #18
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do you have to keep the name of the tool secret and only exchange it by PM?
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Old 10-24-2005, 06:24 PM   #19
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thats what i was thinkin too...lol...maybe its a limited edition piece...
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Old 10-24-2005, 06:48 PM   #20
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do you have to keep the name of the tool secret and only exchange it by PM?
no, actually he pm'ed me first, and I replied, I was just letting him know.

Anyways, if you wanna know the name of the super ultimate secret brake tool, here it is. It's just a 4 wheel disc brake caliper tool bought from a local auto parts store, here's a pic of the packaging:



no super fancy name, just plain and simple...
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Old 10-24-2005, 09:11 PM   #21
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when your turning them in, it helps alot if you break the dust seal loose from the piston first, otherwise it sticks, winds up, and binds while turning it in. Just use a little flat head screw driver and slide it between the boot and the piston all the way around. Lubing it with a few drops of brake fluid might help too (don't use anything else!), but I usually get away with just breaking it free.
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Old 10-25-2005, 11:10 AM   #22
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well i got both of the rears done. i did have to lub up the dust boot/seal, but i sprayed some PB Blaster on it instead of using brake fluid. that was the only thing i had to use. hahaha. havent tested out the brakes on the road yet. we'll see soon enough. =)

thank guys. hopefully the fronts are much easier.
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Old 10-25-2005, 12:14 PM   #23
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front are easy, just get a c-clamp
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Old 10-25-2005, 04:24 PM   #24
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If they took that long, they're junk. They'll be seizing completely pretty soon so start saving for remans now.
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Old 10-25-2005, 04:30 PM   #25
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s13

You can borrow those from Kragen too. Thats how I got mine done.

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Old 10-25-2005, 05:12 PM   #26
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I bought a caliper tool set from Harbor Freight for $20 when it was on sale. Sad part is that I haven't had a chance to use it since I always forget it in LA while I'm working on my car is San Diego.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=40732

Also I had to take a hammer to the piston because it was seized. After a few knock it started to retract using the plier method.
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Old 02-11-2006, 08:42 AM   #27
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I have the "Box" type caliper tool, and I just hook it to my 18 volt drill and go to town, it's got enough torque that it sqeezes the fluid out in a big arcing jet across the garage!
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Old 02-11-2006, 08:58 AM   #28
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Tips:

* Check to see if the boot is torn or if the piston is pitted. The piston should be flat and straight, without any dents/nicks in it. Replace both calipers if one is pitted. It's a common problem on old Nissans and they run $60 apiece so it's not a big deal.

* Don't forget to release the parking brake.

* To make it easier to retract, loosen the bleeder bolt and put a tube on top of it to catch fluid. It will depressurize the system and make it easier to push the piston back in. Also the fluid that comes out will most likely be really dirty and contaminated. You don't want that in the caliper. Just make sure you don't step on the brake pedal with the bleeder open so it doesn't suck in air.

* Use the tool or needle nose pliers. It'll take some time. Be patient and don't rip the boot or hurt yourself. Turn clockwise.

* Spray some brake cleaner to clean out dirt from the boot. It will help the piston retract.
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Old 02-11-2006, 11:26 AM   #29
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both my rear pistons look like crap...boot is torn a little on both sides. Pitted up pretty good too. Good thing I have an extra set...lol
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