Keep The SR or Go KA-T?

[SR20d2fourT]

Take a look at your situation. If it really calls for changing it and you really dont want to be messing w/ the law then do what you think would be easier. I live in Texas and they dont give a shit haha, right now Im running open dump daily (lmao) cuz I dont have money. So yeah, do what you need man, whatever you find easier and less expensive.

[j00ni3]

if you have money to spend like that... i would've went with a all N/A setup... which idk if you prefer it .. but get some really good internals.... spend couple of grand on the internals... starting with the crank ( balanced and knifed ) with new pistons, rods, cams, lifts, retainers, ) from what i heard on a diff forum from BIGV that with the nismo crank pistons and rods the ka can actually achieve 10k rpm with no load ( now idk if a sr can do that )
and rev higher than a sr with load

and as soon your bullet proofed the engine... do the exhaust and the intakes... get a new head or get it machined.. then just get a good ecu tune...


if you have money to spare you can prolly make a good 300hp to the crank even more (of course not with just what i listed, prolly more to it... im still studying )

and the GREAT part about it is that it will last WAYYYYYYYY longer than a turbo...( not much rebuilding of the block and turbo itself )

and also solves your problem.... from cops it will just look like a reg ka24... but they don't know the rest that's been tuned and transformed... and you don't need boost gauges for this... so it saves you all the headaches while giving your more of a torque curve than an sr...

and you will have the nice power band also of a N/A~ ( no boost lag ) hehe...

just my .o2

[BigVinnie]

Originally Posted by j00ni3

from what i heard on a diff forum from BIGV that with the nismo crank pistons and rods the ka can actually achieve 10k rpm with no load ( now idk if a sr can do that )
and rev higher than a sr with load

True, but that NISMO bottom assembly cost over $8000, I don't think anyone is buying it any time soon in the near future.

[fatalfury64]

You guys make very good arguments. I would go ka-t if i had the money for the turbo and to lower the compression.

[NemeGuero]

Originally Posted by BigVinnie

True, but that NISMO bottom assembly cost over $8000, I don't think anyone is buying it any time soon in the near future.

I'll buy one after my next check... when I'm 30. HAHA

[cc4usmc]

well i just have to find out whats wrong with my new ka-t. im probably gonna have to do a complete rebuild, but i wonde how far i need to take it. i know i will need new rods,pistons and rings....but what do i nee dto do to the block and head themselves?

[NemeGuero]

Buy another stock KA, slap the bitch in its place and boost away.

[cc4usmc]

i wish it were that easy but its a huge turbo. im talking 600whp. haha..crazy! at least i can say i didn't buy the turbo. i have been think about putting it one a running engine and just turing the boost down looooooww, then saving so i can make it bombproof. then i can boost away =P

[BigVinnie]

You can find moderately low mileage blocks for around $300 to $900.
I would get the engine up and running, then I would do a rebuild in the process with forged internals, low compression pistons, knife edged crank, crank scraper and windage tray. Then swap one in for the other.

If you chose to do DSM ecu swap with sensor and CAS, then you can make upto 420WHP on stock internals and some 660cc injectors with the KA, ABEL racing has already done it. If not do what Evan is doing and do the Biki ROM, it will make you think a whole lot different about the KA and it's potential.....

[EchoOfSilence]

And tell me, what are you going to be doing with '600whp'

[NemeGuero]

Originally Posted by EchoOfSilence

And tell me, what are you going to be doing with '600whp'

I vote... "dying"

[Neejay]

Originally Posted by BigVinnie

You can find moderately low mileage blocks for around $300 to $900.
I would get the engine up and running, then I would do a rebuild in the process with forged internals, low compression pistons, knife edged crank, crank scraper and windage tray. Then swap one in for the other.

If you chose to do DSM ecu swap with sensor and CAS, then you can make upto 420WHP on stock internals and some 660cc injectors with the KA, ABEL racing has already done it. If not do what Evan is doing and do the Biki ROM, it will make you think a whole lot different about the KA and it's potential.....

I tried searching for the DSM ECU, but all I found was this thread: http://www.ka-t.org/forums/viewtopic...sm+ecu+install which really didn't explain. How hard is this? Or do you know another link with info about it?

[cc4usmc]

Originally Posted by EchoOfSilence

And tell me, what are you going to be doing with '600whp'

well like i said, i didn't put the turbo on, i never said i was gonna use it to full potential. but..i will most likely swith it out for something smaller...because i vote to live.

[BigVinnie]

Originally Posted by Neejay

I tried searching for the DSM ECU, but all I found was this thread: http://www.ka-t.org/forums/viewtopic...sm+ecu+install which really didn't explain. How hard is this? Or do you know another link with info about it?

I've never done the swap myself, but it is achievable. Put the parts list together and you can get them off of any newer 4 banger Mitsubishi's that ran a turbo at a wrecking yard for around $300.
You can P.M elks240 he defenitely can give you more indepth info on how it is done, and how you would want your basic setup. The wiring set up is a tad introcate, but it's a pretty badass system since its main functionm is wideband instead of narrowband.....

[cc4usmc]

Originally Posted by NemeGuero

Buy another stock KA, slap the bitch in its place and boost away.

should i buy a later ka motor, one that is obd1? i'd have to get the ecu too right? and what about the harness?

[NemeGuero]

No sir, the blocks are identical.. well nearly.. but identical enough.

All you gotta do is use ANY dohc head and block.
Just be aware the s13 dohc uses different cams than the s14.

[cc4usmc]

Originally Posted by NemeGuero

No sir, the blocks are identical.. well nearly.. but identical enough.

All you gotta do is use ANY dohc head and block.
Just be aware the s13 dohc uses different cams than the s14.

so let me get this straight...i can use an s13 ka block and head, but i should keep the cams from the s14? what about the s14 harness...will it work with the s13 ka?

[NemeGuero]

The harness doesn't attach to anything on the block/head.. the harness attaches to all the little accessories bolted on to those parts. So keep the manifolds you have now, but swap out the head/block together.

And actually, you can get better flow using the s13 cams. They have 240/248 or something like that and s14 is 232/232.

So put the s13 exhaust (248) on your intake side, and the s13 intake on your exhaust side.. but make sure you align them properly at TDC.

[EchoOfSilence]

wtf? i didn't know of this switching intake and exhaust cams. I thought the s14 guys just used the exhaust s13 cam

[NemeGuero]

You can do both.. in fact, most people do use both..
Go on www.ka-t.org and you'll see a lot of them using both; or Big Vinnie can tell you more about it.

[cc4usmc]

Originally Posted by NemeGuero

The harness doesn't attach to anything on the block/head.. the harness attaches to all the little accessories bolted on to those parts. So keep the manifolds you have now, but swap out the head/block together.

And actually, you can get better flow using the s13 cams. They have 240/248 or something like that and s14 is 232/232.

So put the s13 exhaust (248) on your intake side, and the s13 intake on your exhaust side.. but make sure you align them properly at TDC.

but i thought that one had an external coil and one didn't? thats what i was told, but maybe i misunderstood. if thats not true...you just saved me a bunch of money

[NemeGuero]

Yes, s14s have internal coil, s13s have external.

But you can swap distributors, they're just bolted to the front upper timing cover.

[cc4usmc]

Originally Posted by NemeGuero

Yes, s14s have internal coil, s13s have external.

But you can swap distributors, they're just bolted to the front upper timing cover.

is that swap covered on ka-t.org? i'd look but im not even supposed to be on the internet. my GySgt would squash me like a bug! :hammer:

[BigVinnie]

The problem with getting an s13 OBD1 block is that they all have relatively high mileage. The OBD1 blocks IMO are a better setup for boosted application. The cams come stock 240/248 the overlap is set pretty well. I would leave the cam set up the way it is, it was designed to pull some mad lowend torque. The fact that the ecu is more than likely OBD2(s14) there won't need to be any use of the secondary butterfly's that came stock on the OBD1 intake manifolds. This would allow for some really good throttle responce and a better high end margin in power to remove the SCV's, or just us ethe s14 KA manifold on teh OBD1 KA s13 block.
The 240/248 setup is very comparitive to OBD CA18det cam set ups the overlap is almost identical. Cams were almost the same with the same overlap since they used pretty close to the same rod stroke ratio. Using the 248 on the exhaust as if it were stock instead of using it as the intake will allow for an increased spool time. I would defenitely do this instead of the 232/232 setup that comes stock on all OBD2 KA (s14). , or 248/232 setup. Besides in order to properly set the 248 exhaust cam you need to invest into a JWT adjustable timing sprocket and retard the cam about 1~2 degress to make proper overlap with the s14 exhaust cam 232. Or even if using a 248/240 cam set up, but now you would need to tinker with 2 adjustable timing gears adn now advance the intake cam on the exhaust side about 1~2degress. Alot of hassle using hot cam swaps IMO.

[NemeGuero]

Speak of the Devil and he chimes in..

Vince, I thougth you said the 248/240 was a better setup for me? And this is the first I've heard about the adjustable cam gear.. damn. But people get away without using the adjustable cam gear? 'cuz the people I talk to with the hot cams.. don't have them.

[BigVinnie]

Originally Posted by NemeGuero

Speak of the Devil and he chimes in..

Vince, I thougth you said the 248/240 was a better setup for me?

248/240 is better for you, fine tuned it makes alot more power, we discussed that cam gears would be needed, and you already use the bikirom to set the MAPS.
People for torquey low and mid end do 240/248.It's just as good of a power achiever for people that don't want to spend alot of money on tuning, if time is money. I was just mentioning that this one was better because it's just an affordable alternative that makes really good power.
I was just speaking in the sence of relative eas which is better in making power, they both make power one is just EASIER to do....

Originally Posted by NemeGuero

'cuz the people I talk to with the hot cams.. don't have them.

Well the people that you are talking to are possibly pulling your chain. the position that the 248 is positioned on the 4 tooth method actually opens the valve lift at .005 TDC. The cam makes better power pulled back into the stroke and retarded about 1~2degress.
I did discuss that this cam would infact need to be timed and after all we did each drink a pitcher of beer to our heads......

[NemeGuero]

Originally Posted by BigVinnie

I did discuss that this cam would infact need to be timed and after all we did each drink a pitcher of beer to our heads......

I guess this is what did it in.
Damn, well thanks for clearing it up. Guess I won't be installing this cam till I get some adjustable cam gears.. weak.

[BigVinnie]

LOL it's all good man, I'm not a very good speaker when I'm faded...
Probably my bad for not clarifying, but I will do the 248/240 on my NA since they already come in my OBD1 engine, cam gears will cost me $300 with some tuning........

[NemeGuero]

You're confusing me now.. 248/240 OR 240/248??!

[infinitexsound]

i hate threads like these, some people just dont have any brains to figure out for themselves....