NEW Bolt on Part for KA24DE owners

[Iceman00]

Originally Posted by McRussellPants

Thats pretty cool to be able to fit your entire mods list in your sig.

OH No's! Bragging rights.

[LB.Motoring]

Bahaha,

homos.

[HyperTek]

Originally Posted by McRussellPants

lol TB spacers.

thats NICO tune to the max.

Tune it up with the HyperTek power programmer next.

Originally Posted by McRussellPants

don't flatter yourself.

http://www.hypertech-inc.com/

HyperTek = hypertech ??

its all gravy

[s13gold]

nice one........

[Iceman00]

I'm still waiting for A Good Negitive reason not to get this. So far, its just been flames.

[s13speeddrft]

because you could have one made for less money.....

[S14DB]

Originally Posted by s13speeddrft

because you could have one made for less money.....

ditto

[Iceman00]

Originally Posted by S14DB

ditto

Wait. First it was a Bad mouth the mod

Originally Posted by S14DB

KA does NOT need more plenum volume.
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And Now you can Get if of Cheaper. Right. You an make your own intake too...

Originally Posted by Jesus

The pictures in my initial post are of the pressed phenolic w/ aluminum TBS.
Through Ace Precision's tests they found that with this design they are able to dissipate heat more efficiently than with the solid aluminum TBS. They manufactured this design in the process of working with me to develop the KA24DE TBS. So our application was the first to have this option.

Using aluminum isn't enough apperently.

Originally Posted by Asleep

phenolic is a composite material. picture particle board but made from a much heavier style impregnated resin type material instead of wood...

no problem. its a great material for things like this. it conducts heat well and is very durable. its like using wood but much better since it holds its shape well and is extremely hard. even cutting it requires proper gear...

And they make he spacer for other motors inclding the SR, VQ, and QR. Here is a QR's dyno gains

http://www.b15sentra.net/forums/show...=134693&page=4

[clutch kick drifter]

so little HP gain.. pointless! id rather go stick a blow dryer in my intake if i was in the much need of hp... or just turn up the boost

[BigVinnie]

Basic fluid dynamic principles involved, but only small gains...
Not worth $60 for a spacer. All it does is increase plenum volume.
Better off with a 62mm bored TB from max bore and porting the plenum yourself more gains across the board than a spacer can offer.
When will some one stop making cheap fabricated parts for the KA and just redesign a whole new manifold with short runners since that is what it needs for more HP and high end rev?

[Iceman00]

Originally Posted by BigVinnie

Basic fluid dynamic principles involved, but only small gains...
Not worth $60 for a spacer. All it does is increase plenum volume.
Better off with a 62mm bored TB from max bore and porting the plenum yourself more gains across the board than a spacer can offer.
When will some one stop making cheap fabricated parts for the KA and just redesign a whole new manifold with short runners since that is what it needs for more HP and high end rev?

Good answer, but I've seen test prove that there really is no gain in Larger TB. But for 60 bucks, and that large or an Increase down low, I think its Worth it. And Its not just something N/A guys can use.

As for your manifold Idea, for the cost of devlopment and Production, I doubt many people would buy it.

[slow40]

Originally Posted by Iceman00

I'm still waiting for A Good Negitive reason not to get this. So far, its just been flames.

let it go...

[kenversusryu]

Originally Posted by bumbleBtuna

let it go...

forealz.

If you want one so bad go get one. To each his own.

[KA24DESOneThree]

Don't an assload of people here strip their cars to make them faster?

Yeah, it's free but how much "horsepower" do you gain by doing so?

$60 isn't much to increase dig out of corners. What, have you already spent it on your vinyl budget? I don't endorse this product, hell, I haven't even looked at it but I'm just saying that every little bit increases drive out of corners, which is exactly what NA KA powered cars need. Either that or a decent suspension so cornering speeds would be higher... you know what, I think I'll support the suspension a little more. Save up and buy some decent pieces for your suspension, you weak bastards.

My engine mods would take less than a line to write out.

[Thorpedo]

why don't mods take care of posters like mcrusselpants and others in these types of threads? all they do is downplay everything and waste space. people who say useless bs in other threads get handled with, why isnt this the same?

if the dynos are accurate, which i believe they are, this piece would be great for anyone with a stock manifold setup. whats the reason for people saying its shit?

they've been using the same technology in domestics and pretty much everything for a long time. it works. done and done.

[jobestudios]

Because it's rediculously overpriced, it doesn't yield enough gains to be considered worthwhile. And don't say every little piece helps in the long run, because in the long run if you're going to do an all out build, you're going to have an aftermarket intake manifold / throttle body, not a plasticardboard spacer.

[cmcdougle]

Bypassing the coolant? It's there for a reason.

There is also a reason that they used gaskets instead of o-rings.

This sounds like a cheeseball mod that, while it gives you an extra like 2 horsepower, screws up your engine at the same time.

[BigVinnie]

Originally Posted by Iceman00

Good answer, but I've seen test prove that there really is no gain in Larger TB.

If you couldn't tell 62mm is the norm on most newer production model nissan, and Honda 4 bangers.Last I recall my friends H22 uses a 62mm TB....Obviously there are gains or the OEM guy's wouldn't be using them to begin with.LOL
Besides larger TB will lean out my already rich stock ecu tune, it doesn't hurt till you try it....

[Iceman00]

Originally Posted by jobestudios

Because it's rediculously overpriced, it doesn't yield enough gains to be considered worthwhile. And don't say every little piece helps in the long run, because in the long run if you're going to do an all out build, you're going to have an aftermarket intake manifold / throttle body, not a plasticardboard spacer.

Oh please, How many people do an All out build? So Far, I think the quickest N/A Ka on our site is Faster than the Quickest N/A 240sx on this site. And He was running a Stock manifold.

[Iceman00]

Originally Posted by cmcdougle

Bypassing the coolant? It's there for a reason.

There is also a reason that they used gaskets instead of o-rings.

This sounds like a cheeseball mod that, while it gives you an extra like 2 horsepower, screws up your engine at the same time.

So tell me, what was the Reason it was there for?

[Iceman00]

Originally Posted by BigVinnie

If you couldn't tell 62mm is the norm on most newer production model nissan, and Honda 4 bangers.Last I recall my friends H22 uses a 62mm TB....Obviously there are gains or the OEM guy's wouldn't be using them to begin with.LOL
Besides larger TB will lean out my already rich stock ecu tune, it doesn't hurt till you try it....

Most manual Guys on the Altima boards (93-97) swap an Auto throttle body for thiers (Auto is 60mm, and manual is 55) they feel a gain, but I never heard of it being huge. All 97 1/2 + altimas have a 60mm tb. You really think they are going to notice a gain of 2mm?

As For the ECU, check the sig.

[irax]

can you make one for my 5mge 87 cressida?

[Iceman00]

Originally Posted by irax

can you make one for my 5mge 87 cressida?

I don't know if you're joking or not, But I don't make them, ACE Performance Does. They have done it for a number of nissan motors.

[irax]

i'm actualy serious this stupid thing is supposed to be my daily driver,
and its got freaking horrible gas milage and i did EVERYTHING from timing, spark plugs, air filter, tirepressure, EVERTHING! I will be lucky enough to get 19 mpg right now. And if people have been reporting better gas milage then shoot 60 bucks is waay beter than 150 for that tornado thas is proven to not do anything.

[Iceman00]

WHAT?! The Tornado has been proven to Do something!
(like be a total waste of cash)

IF what everyone is saying is true, a machine shop could make one for you for 12 bucks

[Iceman00]

BTw...try lighter wieght oil. Less friction...

[S14DB]

Originally Posted by Iceman00

BTw...try lighter wieght oil. Less friction...

OMFG...

[Iceman00]

Originally Posted by S14DB

OMFG...

Please, tell me how his motor will blow up from going from a 10w30 to 5w30. You seem to be a smart guy, full of one-liners, contradictions, and idiocy.

SHOW me I'm wrong.

And Your rep System Means SHIT to me considering you're still in the green.

[BigVinnie]

Originally Posted by Iceman00

Please, tell me how his motor will blow up from going from a 10w30 to 5w30. You seem to be a smart guy, full of one-liners, contradictions, and idiocy.

Well for starters I run 10W-40 Castrol GTX if I oil myself, or 10w-40 quaker state at Jiffy Lube...
Different oils have different temperature ratings as well.
I wouldn't be caught dead using 5w30 oil in my high mileage KA24de, with my timing advanced to 32BTDC and iridium plugs, oil would burn and my rings would fry.....

Thicker oils hold up to higher temperatures, it's a simple fact.

Granted that a 5W is thinner oil, and is good for cold starts. But it only has a limited range when dealing with it's temperature. The higher the temperature outside of it's normal range of operation it will begin to become viscous and burn. It may use a multi grade which means that it can also function as much as 30w to it's temperature meaning 5w-30. Really most high mileage or mild mileage cars that are driven hard can use a thicker oil that would react better to higher temperatures. A 5W compared to a 10W doesn't really mean shit unless you really live in cold weather conditions that wouldn't allow thicker oil to move as well on a cold start. Engines are relatively broken in well after 20~60,000m anyway.

By Chemical Engineering

The oil's cold-weather weight is indicated by the letter "W," meaning "winter," as in 10W, which is gauged by the oil's viscosity at 0 °F. The warm-weather weight is based on the viscosity measured at 210 °F. Oils used to be sold mostly as single-grade products, and still are for some special uses, such as extreme weather conditions or for racing cars. But the viscosity range of single-grade oils is too limited for general use. That's where multigrade oils come in.

High-molecular-weight polymers (viscosity index improvers) such as poly(methyl methacrylate) and ethylene-propylene copolymer are added to a low-viscosity oil base stock to create multigrade oils that work through thick and thin. At cold temperatures, the rubberlike polymer molecules exist as balled-up coils and don't thicken the oil significantly, Bachelder says. But at warmer temperatures, they expand to more linear random coils to prevent oil from thinning out too much. Thus, common multigrade monikers-indicated by two grade numbers-are 5W-30 for colder climates (falling below 0 °F), 10W-30 for intermediate climates (down to 0 °F), and 20W-50 for warmer climates (down to 32 °F).

http://pubs.acs.org/cen/whatstuff/84/8411oil.html


Yahoo even has more common sense...
http://autos.yahoo.com/maintain/repa...ques120_1.html

[cmcdougle]

Originally Posted by Iceman00

So tell me, what was the Reason it was there for?

Uhhhh, to keep it cool, maybe?

Originally Posted by Iceman00

Oh please, How many people do an All out build? So Far, I think the quickest N/A Ka on our site is Faster than the Quickest N/A 240sx on this site. And He was running a Stock manifold.

Who wants to build an NA KA?

Originally Posted by Iceman00

Please, tell me how his motor will blow up from going from a 10w30 to 5w30. You seem to be a smart guy, full of one-liners, contradictions, and idiocy.

SHOW me I'm wrong.

And Your rep System Means SHIT to me considering you're still in the green.

Use 20/50 in warm climates for improved efficiancy.




You guys. . .