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Tech Talk Technical Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars |
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#1 |
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![]() the other day it was very hot and i was driving my car to a shop to get some things fix and tuned. the stock temp guage was a little high but after awhile it was smoking and i heard like a bang sound then right after i hear clicking it sounded like it came from clutch but after the car turned off i heard it from inside then engine. well i was driving to a stoplight and it kept want to turn off on me but i didnt let it i kept the revs up, then a stop light later in the middle of the intersection the car went dead i tried to pop start it with the clutch but it didnt work, so i had to cruise my way as far as i can to the nearest parking place, i made it to a rite aid but i had to push it a little. when i popped the hood it seems like something was burning either oil or coolant. the side of the head is all brownish like burnt and when i took of the spark plug cover i there is like oil or coolant stains also on top of the coils, like it was a liquid and formed into a dried clog of something, i dont know what happen but i need to fix it asap so if any1 knows what might happen please lmk. also if need more info lmk. i will add pics tom but here a video of the clicking. i hear it while its on its louder but when the car is off i still hear it.
here are the pics looks like something got burned and stained the engine ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() video 1 ![]() video 2 ![]() Last edited by grnappletree14; 09-04-2007 at 09:21 PM.. Reason: updated new video |
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#3 |
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Was it like in initial D, when the ae86 died? Happend to my ka, kept trying to start it to get it home, got it started 1 last time, then 2 miles from home bang! No lights no nothing thought the heat shield fell off. Tried to push start it the next day, marked the belts to make sure. 20mph roll no movement from belts. Ripped it apart piston wegded between block and crank. still don't know what i heard fall off
worst case! Don't try to start it. get a wrench on the crank and see if she'll turn for you. start there
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I wanna know what your plugs look like. Also, have you drained your oil and coolant? Why do you think it's a liquid? did yoo feel the burned spots? Is you breather element a possibility, the oil dipstick or valvecover gasket? What have you done? I really want to follow this thread.
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#9 | |
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Just FYI.
When there seems to be something amiss with the auto while motoring, do not continue to push, and beat on the car. If something is amiss with they way it drives, pull over quickly and turn it off. Like the Temp gauge reading high. Or a knock or sound, or smell or smoke. The sooner you STOP running the engine, and get the auto infront of a trained professional the higher likely hood that you can fix the situation with only minor repairs. With that being said, I really have no clue what exactly transpired, but it sounds as though the engine was overheating, and you continued to drive it until something mechanical broke. You need to get someone to you who can make a better diagnosis of your situation.
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Although the video helps none, he was probably stressed and not thinking clearly at the time of recording...
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#15 |
Man w/ CTSV & a Car Seat
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Time to start disassembling shiet buddy. Lift the valve cover and see the condition of the head. Drain your oil, check what it looks like and then drop your oil pan. Lets just put it this way, if your stock water temp hit H and you continued to drive it, head warpage on the SR is the least of your worries. If you drop the oil pan, more than likely you will find lil bronze/brass fragments and shavings deposited in it. That my friend used to be your rod bearings. My guess would be engine temp got so high that your oil literally started cooking and stopped lubricating the engine. I suggest you start saving for another engine or for a full rebuild.
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#16 | |
Leaky Injector
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Quote:
I concur... check this out man, if you've never heard rod knock before... Rod Knock on a KA [ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DfJIpiQZtR4[/ame] Rod Knock on a Honda Motor [ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M1sxt3BC1TE&mode=related&search=[/ame] And if you want more, there's plenty on youtube, just search "Rod knock" Yours doesn't seem to be as loud as theirs, but after listening to your second video, this could be the culprit - and it could also be the mic on your recording device which makes it difficult to hear the knock more clearly. You can be a better judge, because you would be right next to the motor. ----- edit: Then again, it could also be slight rocker arm tap..... Either way, Good luck man - I hope it ends up being something not too bad. =T |
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#17 |
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Yup, your engine is fucked. Congratulations!
Same thing happened on my old KA. Lost all power...kepty trying to turn her over...then *CLUNK*...and that's all she wrote. Oh well, at least look at the bright side, now you know what your engine sounds like before it goes KABOOM! |
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#18 |
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can i just buy a new head and rebuild my eninge. i never did got to rebuild i didnt have the money. but i have some now. where is a good place to go in socal to get it rebuild.
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#19 |
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Yeah, you could rebuild your engine, but why would you?
It's not really cost effective at this point. Granted, there's no way of knowing the exact condition of your engine without taking it apart, but speaking from experience it's probably shot to hell. You probably have rod knock, which means you're going to have to disassemble the block. And there's a good probability that the head is warped. Best case scenario: You're going to have to disassemble the motor and get the tolerances checked by a machine shop, get everything resurfaced (if possible) and fix all the broken components (like your rod bearings). It's just not cost or time effective, even if you did it yourself. For the price of having a decent shop rebuild your engine you could probably buy two new motors. Good Luck! |
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#21 |
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my friends brother owns a machine shop. he will hook my shit up sick. so i really dont think it cost alot. he will prob do it for free. im really close with him and his brother. i think all i have to do is to see whats wrong with it buy the parts and have him fix it.
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#22 |
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for the price of the rebuild, taking the motor back out, putting it back in, you might as well get an s15 sr That would be sick nasty and only pay to put it in!!!
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#23 |
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yea but what will i do with my motor now. i just got it. 1 1/2 year ago. i could get a rebuild for free or like $50, take out and drop in myself. i really have time now since i taking a break from school. so i really dont think i will buy another motor. if u can sell my motor i will prob buy another.
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#24 |
Man w/ CTSV & a Car Seat
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Cost wise, just get another long block. You should be able to get a S14 engine for $1k if you know the right people.
If you want it done right, rebuild the whole bottom end with fresh goodies as long as the crank isnt fucked. Again you wont know till you start disassembling the engine. Repolish/balance the crank, get some Eagle Rods, Arias 87mm pistons, fresh bearings and hone out block. Hopefully the heads not completely junked, if the heads not completely warped, might get away with decking it. Hopefully the head components are not fucked like valves, guides, cams, lifters, etc. Itll cost a pretty penyy but atleast you know itll be done right. If you can do all the work yourself and have hook up with machining, you just gotta buy the parts and hopefully have some guidance as far as rebuilding it. |
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#25 |
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what major rebuild parts should i get if i rebuild it. what should i go with, i want to make about 300-350 hp. i have 550cc, z32 maf, t28, exhaust, intake, nismo fpr, walbro fuel pump.
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#26 |
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![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() 2 of the coils didnt want to come out like it was hard to get out. i dunno what happened to it but the plastic formed into a lip and now its hard to take out. i got 2 of them out. the head i dont what to look for since i took off the valve cover. any tips or things i should exaime. my next step is to drain oil and take of oil pan. |
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#27 |
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hmm looks like when one of my coil packs exploded.. the coil pack is filled with some kind of horrible smelling fluid that turns into glue when they crack.
This is a picture of my coil pack.. It exploded, horrible sound.. the car was firing on 3 cylinders... parked it and when i popped the hood the smell hit me it was horrible!!!!! anyways.. got the car home.. the next morning i go to troulbeshooting find out my #3 coil pack would not come off.. i had to use pliers to pry the bitch out.. then had to clean all the crap off so my replacement coil pack wouldnt also get stuck on. ![]() |
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#29 | |
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#30 |
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very hard to say about the clicking... the coil pack and the stuff on the valve cover looks just like when it happened to me. This of course doesn't mean something else may be going on with your set up.
once i heard the loud pop and didnt have a clue wtf happened.. i shut the car down. The next time the car was restarted I had replaced the coilpack with 1 of the spares I had and fresh plugs. It ran like normal. I went back through trying to troubleshoot why it popped in the first place and all my wiring test showed no problems with the coil pack wiring or anything. so i chopped it up to the 6-7yrs of abuse the motor has taken from me. |
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