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Tech Talk Technical Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars |
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#1 |
Leaky Injector
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bolts from turbo extension to turbo???
hey,
apparently one of the bolts that connect my turbo extension to the turbo has fallen out, does anyone know the specs on these bolts and where to get them? thanks |
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#4 | |
Nissanaholic!
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Quote:
Edit: call heavy throttle 1-866-4 SR SWAP or Enjuku Racing 1-866-SR20DET They always have extra parts laying around and the best part is you can negotiate on a price [like the used SR radiator I just got]
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'91 hatch w/ SR Sold; '03 Evo Sold 401 HP; '03 MS Protege sold; '00 Evo 6.5 TME Sold 300HP Last edited by nrcooled; 03-02-2003 at 04:35 PM.. |
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#5 |
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I was thinkin more of getting the sizing and thread angle/count from them and having one/all made by ARP or something if you couldn't find one from a US company....
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#6 |
Nissanaholic!
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easy. they are normal bolts. go to Ace Hardware (or similar) and go to the Stainless Steel section...get M8 x 1.25 pitch bolts. I believe they are 25mm long, but I can't remember. Just take another one out and take it with you...there are 3 of them.
get lock washers while you're at it...helps a lot. Eric
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2002 Mazda Protege5 1989 S13 w/SR20DET (sold) Last edited by uiuc240; 03-03-2003 at 10:03 AM.. |
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#8 |
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Grade 8 is an SAE thing. Metric will be in Grade 8.8, and 12.9...maybe 10.9 too...can't remember right now. I got 12.9 on mine.
http://euler9.tripod.com/bolt-database/22.html Eric
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2002 Mazda Protege5 1989 S13 w/SR20DET (sold) |
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#9 |
Leaky Injector
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u think i should just replace the 3 studs at the bottom w those bolts and lock washers? cuz one of studs already broke, and i'm just considering getting another turbo since, i'll have to pull the turbo just to replace it, might as well u know
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#12 |
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sorry, no IM here at work.
![]() I have 3 bolts and 2 studs on mine. For about 8 months, the studs had no nuts on them because they had loosened right off. I have lock washers on all of it now, and it's holding like super glue. I also re-bent the metal tab thing, so they don't have a chance of spinning loose. I would probably see if you can replace the stud that's broken...it's a bitch to get at that thing though. You'll definitely have to take it all apart. What I would do, is just get everything tightened as best as you can, and then just leave it alone until you get a turbo upgrade or something. I'm going with a T28 this summer. Let me just say this, taking the turbo out SUCKS. I had to do it because I got a mad exhaust leak. Avoid it at all costs. If you just need to tighten things up, just tighten things up. It will hold with 3 or 4 of the 5 bolts...especially if you get the lock washers. I know that sounds ghetto, but it's way better than spending 10 hours removing and replacing the turbo and mani (I'm sure it will go faster the second time, though). Eric
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2002 Mazda Protege5 1989 S13 w/SR20DET (sold) |
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#14 |
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yes, but the two studs are going to be a BIATCH to get at. like i said...is it worth it to you to spend 10+ hours just to get those bolted down? Just do the 3-4 you can get at and call it good.
Eric
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2002 Mazda Protege5 1989 S13 w/SR20DET (sold) |
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#16 |
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ahh. no, they are 12mm hex head (use a socket or a wrench).
i suppose you could use allen heads if you found them in that size, but you couldn't tighten two of them (no room). Eric
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2002 Mazda Protege5 1989 S13 w/SR20DET (sold) |
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#17 |
Leaky Injector
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i mean i suppose i could find a socket with a hex head on it for the ratchet, i've seen those around
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#18 |
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you need to go to a specialty store...not Home Depot. you need to go to like Ace Hardware. that's where I get all my good shi.
Eric
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2002 Mazda Protege5 1989 S13 w/SR20DET (sold) |
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