240SX back up and running but....

[Tokendog]

I got my SR20DET up and running tonight. I had a few issues with grounds, etc. but sorted that out and its cranking right up.

I do have a few other issues though. For one, my temp gauge is not working and its an S13 blacktop in a 93 240SX.

I can not use an aftermarket one until I get the correct adapter from phase2.
Also, the bigger issue, is that my coolant is not circulating. The lower radiator hose is pumping coolant up, and it is getting to my heater core, but it does not appear to be coming back out nor is it going to the upper radiator hose. Neither of those two are pressurized.

What could be causing this? I only ran the car for about 5 minutes. Any thing I should worry about? Is it possible that there is something blocking the coolant? I was thinking of just removing the hoses from the heater core and looping the back to each other near the intake.

Also, does any one know or can any one tell me how to check my TPS to make sure it is set right? The car idles at about 1000 then jumps to 1500 and stays there. When taking the intake manifold apart, I took the TPS off and did not set it back where it originally was set to.
Someone said use a multimeter to check it and make sure it is set to .37, but I have not had any luck with that and could not get a reading. Any other ideas?
Please help me iron out these issues!

Thanks,
Doyle

[Tokendog]

I also discovered that the stainless steel coolant line running to my turbo from the back of the head is leaking. Could this be causing my issue with the coolant?

Also is there any danger to my HG from air bubbles in the coolant system? What are some problems that could have been caused /up to/ this point?

Thanks a lot guys!

[Tokendog]

No one knows?

[ESmorz]

Originally Posted by Tokendog

Also is there any danger to my HG from air bubbles in the coolant system? What are some problems that could have been caused /up to/ this point?

Air in your coolant system could cause temporary spikes in temp and if you get to hot that could cause some problemos for the ol head gasket.

As for the actual air itself damaging it... not as far as I know.

Properly burp the system, and change the line.

[Tokendog]

Originally Posted by ESmorz

Air in your coolant system could cause temporary spikes in temp and if you get to hot that could cause some problemos for the ol head gasket.

As for the actual air itself damaging it... not as far as I know.

Properly burp the system, and change the line.

Out of curiosity, how long do you think it would take for overheating to damage a headgasket? Consider that my radiator fluid is not flowing properly through the system as well.

I don't think any thing happened but I am just wanting to have an idea of the time frame it would take to cause a bigger issue like blowing a HG.

I have been told on other forums to put the car up on ramps, open the radiator cap, and squeeze the radiator hose to get the air bubbles out of the system. I also need to fix the radiator leak near the turbo coolant inlet.

It seems to me the blockage is near the heater hoses, though. How does one go about looping that back and eliminating the heater core altogether? Can I just get a new hose and join the two hoses that go to the firewall with one another so that they do not go to the firewall at all?

Thanks!

[ESmorz]

Originally Posted by Tokendog

Out of curiosity, how long do you think it would take for overheating to damage a headgasket? Consider that my radiator fluid is not flowing properly through the system as well.

I don't think any thing happened but I am just wanting to have an idea of the time frame it would take to cause a bigger issue like blowing a HG.

Well it's hard to say really. Depends on what the temp was and the amount of time it stayed there along with a few other variables. Unless your car is portraying the tell tale signs of head gasket failure, you are probably in the clear on that front.

Bleed the system entirely. Replace all the lines and fix your leaks. Then add distilled water and water wetter to better help prevent against future over heating.

[Tokendog]

Originally Posted by ESmorz

Well it's hard to say really. Depends on what the temp was and the amount of time it stayed there along with a few other variables. Unless your car is portraying the tell tale signs of head gasket failure, you are probably in the clear on that front.

Bleed the system entirely. Replace all the lines and fix your leaks. Then add distilled water and water wetter to better help prevent against future over heating.

Dumb question I guess but what are the tell tale signs? I know coolant in the exhaust is definitely a sign as well as poor performance when driving....and coolant in the oil. But what are some signs I can look for while the car is just idling?

I am going to try to get the air bubbles out and if that doesn't work, I will remove the intake again and replace all the hoses under there. My radiator hoses are new and so is the L shaped hose on the back of the head. The only hoses that are not new are the u shaped one near the IACV and the short stubby one that joins the hard pipes together near the IACV as well. I am just hoping I didn't do some thing stupid like leave a piece of paper towel in one of the pipes or something. I am almost 100% confident that I wouldn't do any thing that stupid but you never know...

A lot of people are saying its probably air in the system.

Do you know how is the proper way to loop back the coolant system to eliminate the heater core altogether? It never really gets that cold here so I do not need a heater. Do I just remove the two hoses going to the firewall and then get a hose to connect them back with one another?

Thanks for all of your help!!

[ESmorz]

Originally Posted by Tokendog

Dumb question I guess but what are the tell tale signs? I know coolant in the exhaust is definitely a sign as well as poor performance when driving....and coolant in the oil. But what are some signs I can look for while the car is just idling?

I am going to try to get the air bubbles out and if that doesn't work, I will remove the intake again and replace all the hoses under there. My radiator hoses are new and so is the L shaped hose on the back of the head. The only hoses that are not new are the u shaped one near the IACV and the short stubby one that joins the hard pipes together near the IACV as well. I am just hoping I didn't do some thing stupid like leave a piece of paper towel in one of the pipes or something. I am almost 100% confident that I wouldn't do any thing that stupid but you never know...

A lot of people are saying its probably air in the system.

Do you know how is the proper way to loop back the coolant system to eliminate the heater core altogether? It never really gets that cold here so I do not need a heater. Do I just remove the two hoses going to the firewall and then get a hose to connect them back with one another?

Thanks for all of your help!!

Well, your defrosters do come in handy, even if it's not "too" cold.

Google is your friend.

WikiAnswers - What are the signs of a blown head gasket

It sounds like you just got some air in the system, so get to work on that. You could always do a compression test just to be safe if you are legitimately worried about head gasket damage.

[Tokendog]

Originally Posted by ESmorz

Well, your defrosters do come in handy, even if it's not "too" cold.

Google is your friend.

WikiAnswers - What are the signs of a blown head gasket

It sounds like you just got some air in the system, so get to work on that. You could always do a compression test just to be safe if you are legitimately worried about head gasket damage.

Lol, yeah, google is my best friend honestly. I use it more than the average person. So much so my friends call me Google cause I love to look up /everything/ on it. Sorry I missed this one but thanks for the link. I will do as you said and see what happens. I planned on doing a compression check to make sure I got a good seal this time around. I used ARP studs with stock head gasket, since I read that the sealing issue was with Nissan OEM head bolts and not the actual HG.

Thanks again! any thing else you can think of please let me know!