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Old 12-02-2008, 09:04 PM   #31
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ahhh... i know that tube, it hooks to the iacv underneath the manifold (if you have a greddy). didnt really know the name of it. I see that your bov is on your hot pipe; whereas, mine is on my cold pipe, so that may be the reason im having idle issues when coming to a stop. The bov is probably letting out alot of air before the throttle body when shifting into neutral position. I have not other issues, the engine runs very strong.

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Old 12-02-2008, 11:18 PM   #32
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Greddy Type R FTW. Ive never had a problem with mine.

I did notice somthing though, I recently had a S14 T28 on mine just upgraded to a GT2871R.

Now with my BOV and running the T28 I had to have the the BOV tightened about half way to prevent the idle drop. Drove fine never had an issue with idle

When I installed the GT2871R Im able to loosen the BOV so it opens softer.

My Version

the 2871R (or bigger) can push enough air at idle to where it wont affect idle at transfer to Neutral, but the T25/28's cannot push enough air to keep idle stablized at Neutral Revs and Neutral transfer.

I have noticed a trend of ppl complaining about Ide drops and the majority of these ppl only run T-25/T28's

So i dont think its a matter of the ECU not being able to handle a Atmos. BOV its that the Stock turbos cannot push enough air to keep the systems AFR's stabliized when vented.

Kinda like when you pull off a vacuum line when the engine is running.

So i think its only a problem with stock turbos
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Old 12-03-2008, 07:19 AM   #33
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Sileighty 85, You bring up a good point. I like your theory and I think you're right. I installed an sr t25 on my KA and I have a greddy rs bov. I have adjusted it open atmosphere extensively. When I recirculated the bov my stalling and backfiring went away and my bov can still be heard loud and clear. It's the cat's meow for people with smaller turbo's on the KA. I wondered why some Sr's have a problem open atmosphere and some don't. My buddy is running open atmos bov with sr20det w/upgraded t25 and has no problems.There are definately benefits to recirculation. Plugs last longer due to not running rich when coming off boost. I wanted open atmosphere, so I tried that first then I had slight problems so I had an intake fabbed for recirculation and now I'm finally content.
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Old 12-03-2008, 07:36 AM   #34
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i dont see a reason to running a BOV, ive ran no bov on my t28 for over a year at 1.1bar and it still pulls strong. never going to spend money on a bov, just gives you idle problems and makes lame sounds.

when cramming 1.1bar of boost into your t28 makes a WAY cooler sound than a 250$ hks ssq.

LOL

just my 2 cents; no need for a bov when using a oem turbine.
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Old 12-03-2008, 01:10 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yokotavia View Post
i dont see a reason to running a BOV, ive ran no bov on my t28 for over a year at 1.1bar and it still pulls strong. never going to spend money on a bov, just gives you idle problems and makes lame sounds.

when cramming 1.1bar of boost into your t28 makes a WAY cooler sound than a 250$ hks ssq.

LOL

just my 2 cents; no need for a bov when using a oem turbine.
Are you going on/off throttle on that turbine in a drift type situation at least 3 times a month?
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Old 12-03-2008, 01:20 PM   #36
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the japanese dont really like BOV's. lol

yeah the point argued when not running a bov is that the turbo will die out. i dont think so.

the greddy EP3 street challenge car ran with no bov. and the turbo had no problems. i would know =)

and the response was great. there was barely any lag at all.
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Old 12-03-2008, 02:10 PM   #37
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I have had a Greddy RS and HKS SSQV on an sr redtop. Both vented no problems.
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Old 12-03-2008, 02:38 PM   #38
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i've got a hks ssqv. ran it vta for about a year. car would run super rich between shifts. got a recirc fitting and tied it to dump back between the maf and turbo. no more rich condition.

better to be safe than sorry.
and with something you invest alot of moeny and time into, it only makes sense to try and protect it. seriously. if it wasnt needed, than they wouldnt of came with them from the factory.
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Old 12-03-2008, 04:05 PM   #39
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i agree recirculate is the way to go no bogging no nothing just runs normal
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Old 12-03-2008, 04:45 PM   #40
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I run an HKS SSQV, and after I had my IACV hooked up properly I haven't had a single idle/stalling problem like LongGrain.

I used to run extremely rich between shifting and I had slight idle problems at first. After I got my AFC and hooked up my IACV my wideband read properly all the time.

I honestly don't see the problem with running VTA for these engines.
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Old 12-03-2008, 05:36 PM   #41
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SR + 2871r + TiAL50mm BOV + Correct spring for BOV + EnthalpyTune = no problems at all with idle or running issues. VTA FTW.
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Old 12-03-2008, 06:18 PM   #42
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I have the new HKS ssqv. My car only stalls .000000001% of the time
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Old 12-03-2008, 06:20 PM   #43
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can we let this thread die please
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Old 12-03-2008, 06:27 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sileighty_85 View Post
Greddy Type R FTW. Ive never had a problem with mine.

I did notice somthing though, I recently had a S14 T28 on mine just upgraded to a GT2871R.

Now with my BOV and running the T28 I had to have the the BOV tightened about half way to prevent the idle drop. Drove fine never had an issue with idle

When I installed the GT2871R Im able to loosen the BOV so it opens softer.

My Version

the 2871R (or bigger) can push enough air at idle to where it wont affect idle at transfer to Neutral, but the T25/28's cannot push enough air to keep idle stablized at Neutral Revs and Neutral transfer.

I have noticed a trend of ppl complaining about Ide drops and the majority of these ppl only run T-25/T28's

So i dont think its a matter of the ECU not being able to handle a Atmos. BOV its that the Stock turbos cannot push enough air to keep the systems AFR's stabliized when vented.

Kinda like when you pull off a vacuum line when the engine is running.

So i think its only a problem with stock turbos
lol

Quote:
Originally Posted by jmac636 View Post
Sileighty 85, You bring up a good point. I like your theory and I think you're right. I installed an sr t25 on my KA and I have a greddy rs bov. I have adjusted it open atmosphere extensively. When I recirculated the bov my stalling and backfiring went away and my bov can still be heard loud and clear. It's the cat's meow for people with smaller turbo's on the KA. I wondered why some Sr's have a problem open atmosphere and some don't. My buddy is running open atmos bov with sr20det w/upgraded t25 and has no problems.There are definately benefits to recirculation. Plugs last longer due to not running rich when coming off boost. I wanted open atmosphere, so I tried that first then I had slight problems so I had an intake fabbed for recirculation and now I'm finally content.
lol



just run a blow through like the dude posted already or run a map ecu. its all about metered air.
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Old 12-03-2008, 06:52 PM   #45
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Quote:
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i guess nissan and every other car manufacturer installed bypass valves for no reason?

get a clue

oh great argument (insert sarcasm). anyone who says "well the factory put it on there" has not been modifying cars very long. worst argument ever.

so sir, lets all just drive stock cars since thats how nissan designed them and changing anything is just stupid right?

i will reitterate. the bypass valve is there to preserve the stock turbo, while not confusing the ecu/maf. HOWEVER, if your car is modded, and you have a quality, ballbearing turbo, then not running a BOV isnt going to hurt it much. and if it does, you put another one on there.

running a bov is like saying "hi, i would like a boost leak. and i want it riiiight heeerrree"
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Old 12-03-2008, 06:53 PM   #46
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Sileighty is right in some way I feel. Old t25 used to stall all the time back in the day. the 2871r only has issues due to the injector size and its only on cold starts. I never stall after its warm with the bigger turbo. Though it could just be that you can tune for it too, and eliminate that rich point.
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Old 12-03-2008, 07:03 PM   #47
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oh great argument (insert sarcasm). anyone who says "well the factory put it on there" has not been modifying cars very long. worst argument ever.
your right i have not been modifying cars for a relatively "long" time, but id rather spend 200 bucks on a quality bov that does not leak at idle or give me any problems whatsoever than replace a turbo that took a shit on me unnessecarily.

once again, can we let this thread die please
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Old 12-03-2008, 08:06 PM   #48
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I dont know, I got a Greddy RS bov vta and it doesnt give me any problems. But I think I will recirculate my bov just because it is better. It does help with spool so there is no bad things that could happen exept the cool sound. IMO why not?
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Old 12-03-2008, 09:03 PM   #49
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your right i have not been modifying cars for a relatively "long" time, but id rather spend 200 bucks on a quality bov that does not leak at idle or give me any problems whatsoever than replace a turbo that took a shit on me unnessecarily.

once again, can we let this thread die please
the part youre not getting is the "quality" doesnt matter. they just leak. period.

if i was to run a BOV, which when i put together my twin turbo set up, i might, it will be dual greddy type R bovs and it will sound like the hammer of Thor.

problem is, they dont pass JCI
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Old 12-04-2008, 04:18 PM   #50
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If they leak you're doing it wrong... I know plenty of people running high psi on big turbos with no boost leaks (known to them)
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Old 12-04-2008, 04:45 PM   #51
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surge sounds 20 times better than a bov, I run 1.5 bar on my BB turbos, no issues.

full boost in 1st gear with quick lift off the throttle for added surge every shift.

I love when people dont have a clue and still have to flex their e-muscles real quick with uninformed posts because they are subscribed to super street.

you guys ever stop to think alot of the shit the aftermarket is saturated with, isnt for your benefit or your cars, rather the manufacturers bottom line?
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Old 12-04-2008, 06:07 PM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SoSideways View Post
Are you going on/off throttle on that turbine in a drift type situation at least 3 times a month?
about 4 times a month.

i was tboned in touge a while ago. so i have some down time atm.

but, before the crash i was going to a 6 corner touge road, then went to the Ebisu circuit drift matsuri (festival) where i was beating on my turbine for literally 25 hours straight and stopped for nothing except food, tires, and gas.

turbine is still pulling hard with no BOV.
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Old 12-04-2008, 07:08 PM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ryangreg View Post
surge sounds 20 times better than a bov, I run 1.5 bar on my BB turbos, no issues.

full boost in 1st gear with quick lift off the throttle for added surge every shift.

I love when people dont have a clue and still have to flex their e-muscles real quick with uninformed posts because they are subscribed to super street.

you guys ever stop to think alot of the shit the aftermarket is saturated with, isnt for your benefit or your cars, rather the manufacturers bottom line?
That's until your turbo blows. Hope you have deep pockets or a sponsor to pay for a new one when it blows.
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Old 12-04-2008, 10:59 PM   #54
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i've heard of turbos lasting 2 years on no bov
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Old 12-05-2008, 11:54 AM   #55
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i've heard of turbos lasting 2 years on no bov
And it probably would have lived a bit longer if it had a BOV.

All speculation though, unless it's the same turbo on the same car tested with and without a BOV strapped to it, which is pretty much impossible to do that test, seeing as if it's on 2 different cars, then it wouldn't be an accurate enough test.

$200 for some peace of mind? Sure, I can afford that.
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Old 12-06-2008, 12:13 AM   #56
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in 2 years time u either wanna upgrade or sell the car
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