3071r setup

[cIutchkick]

I am thinking of a 3071 for my s15 sr. im curious to see what 3071r SR owners are running internals wise and what minimal performance recommendations you would have. car is s14 looking to do drift setup with some highway runs.

[wow-thats-a-cool-car]

learn to drift with a KA not 450 whp

[cIutchkick]

^ im running ka in my daily which sees quite a bit of action. question is for my other car. thnx tho for your input

[Dousan_PG]

s14 sr20det
i run a 3071r
cams 256/264
9:1 compression
stock rods
740cc injectors
greddy intake mani
q45 tb
full race single scroll
gp sports exhaust
fr downpipe
.7 bar
100 octane

i think thats everything...

makes a steady 360whp
im happy with it
turned up the boost a few times but the 360 range is perfect for my needs.

[rbpowerds14]

i ran 3071r with cometic head gasket, arp headstuds, 265 cams, brian crower valvetrane, port and polished head and a COMPLETLY stock bottoend all on a blacktop s13 sr. i made 457 at 25 psi!!lol i dailed the car. it was fun but realibility not to sure

[Teambadrun]

you can't make over 350RWHP on a 3071R T3 ex gate .64 A/R exh housing with low boost.

256/256 Tomei Poncams
1.2MM tomei metal headgasket
Exhaust
intercooler
Tune
Z32
Injectors

You will make around 330rwhp on 1bar(14.2psi) and 1.3(19psi) you should see 360rwhp!

Whoever claims there making 400+rwhp is obviously on a dynojet bhahaha

[Teambadrun]

Originally Posted by wow-thats-a-cool-car

learn to drift with a KA not 450 whp

3071R can't make 450whp even on 25psi and 280DEGREE CAMS!!!++++++++++++++++++

[jspec240]

^ yes that is true. I myself have never ran the 3071r but Im pretty sure to get full use out of it you would have to build any sr's internals.

[Teambadrun]

hmmm.. you can use standard bottom end for 350rwhp pretty safe
so it's not bad

we made with poncams and a stock sr with a headgasket on .9bar of boost and the larger .86 A/R housing 330rwhp

but the engine kept' running too hot
and the headgasket blew up

piece of shit
hahaha

[jspec240]

^^^ Damn that sucks.. what kind of cooling set up did you have? what kind of head gasket? Im not saying you cant do it but if you want a reliable set up and want it to last you would want to build it.

[KiDyNomiTe]

Originally Posted by Teambadrun

you can't make over 350RWHP on a 3071R T3 ex gate .64 A/R exh housing with low boost.

256/256 Tomei Poncams
1.2MM tomei metal headgasket
Exhaust
intercooler
Tune
Z32
Injectors

You will make around 330rwhp on 1bar(14.2psi) and 1.3(19psi) you should see 360rwhp!

Whoever claims there making 400+rwhp is obviously on a dynojet bhahaha

Where do you get that info from... If low boost = 1 bar or less, you can make that power. The key is good tune... I have a 2871 .64 and at 1 bar I made 355, still could be tuned better IMO. And if you look above, Aaron makes ~360 at .7 bar...

[BillWatcher]

^^^^ Just inflicted a lot of rape right there, and I did enjoy it.

[jspec240]

Clutchkick is a friend and we are really just trying to find out how much boost you can run with the 3071r (safely) on stock internals. Can you just get a real thick head gasket to drop compression, or would you need to build the eng to get the full potential of the turbo.

I see Dousan PG is running the same set up but do you use it for track only or everyday? How dependable is it? How long have you been running this? do you have a head gasket? if so what kind and what size.

your input has been most valuable. Thank you

Thanks for any input given folks....

[Teambadrun]

Originally Posted by KiDyNomiTe

Where do you get that info from... If low boost = 1 bar or less, you can make that power. The key is good tune... I have a 2871 .64 and at 1 bar I made 355, still could be tuned better IMO. And if you look above, Aaron makes ~360 at .7 bar...

You are dreaming if you make 355rwhp man. Sorry....

yeah, we have already seen you guy's have high reading Dyno's in USA

so my figure's are realistic.

Garrett wouldn't even agree with your dyno figures, they just dont flow that air ...


I have figures, from experiance. I have had shitloads of differnt turbo's and SR combo's. oh also, from others. So it's not just my tuner, as he is the most popular in AUS for Nissans...

[Teambadrun]

Originally Posted by jspec240

^^^ Damn that sucks.. what kind of cooling set up did you have? what kind of head gasket? Im not saying you cant do it but if you want a reliable set up and want it to last you would want to build it.

Everything was proper, but the day was like 35-40C so it was quite hot. I couldn't control the temps properly so i kept driving, then the next half of the day it kept' drinkin water. And then the company i was driving the car for said the engine headgasket is shagged. The following day when they did some checks.


even my recent SR20, when it was making conservative power ( 330rwhp) and a stuff load of parts( solid lifters, tomei procams, hks twin spark,carbon prop shaft, blitz i color spec R, BLITZ k3-450R,greddy plenum etc)

lasted for around 1 year

[steve shadows]

Originally Posted by Dousan_PG

i think thats everything...

makes a steady 360whp
im happy with it
turned up the boost a few times but the 360 range is perfect for my needs.

You are not even in the efficiency range of the compressor with .7 bar.

I suggest at least 16-18 psi and you will be just getting into it's range.

This is the "problem" with a lot of GT turbos - This is why the last two drifting cars I consulted on I suggested wheels with lower efficiency thresholds - for the lower boost / faster spool setups.

I would think you would have much more success running 18 PSI through an externally gated S15 T28 , you would also have MORE torque and a much wider torque band. 300-315 WTRQ from 3K to 7 K is possible with proper tuning like this. HP however dives down @ 7K (even with Tomei 270) but comes on hard @ 2500-3K rpms. I really think the new ATP External gate housing is going to be a kicker for setups like this in the future.

That's how I would design a car if I was looking for the 300 HP 300 TRQ ranges, and frankly if you design the motor, IM and tuning / EMS around this kind of philosophy you will be getting exactly what you need - and this would actually be a more utility based and FASTER setup - as you can see my philosophy has changed a lot since the old T66/T3 daily driver SR days of 01-03. The optimal thing with getting a lot out of T28 Based setups is not overestimating the output and spending lots of time on a steady state dyno (that does not overheat) to really tune in the maximal efficiency to match the camshafts and exhaust efficiencies to really pull a lot out of the wide broad power band (while making up with large oversized camshafts) as long as the IM has long runners with a small plenum (like stock).

Originally Posted by Teambadrun

You are dreaming if you make 355rwhp man. Sorry....

yeah, we have already seen you guy's have high reading Dyno's in USA

so my figure's are realistic.

Garrett wouldn't even agree with your dyno figures, they just dont flow that air ...


I have figures, from experiance. I have had shitloads of differnt turbo's and SR combo's. oh also, from others. So it's not just my tuner, as he is the most popular in AUS for Nissans...

Exactly mate, this insane thing that has been pushd is that the 2871R is a 400 WHP rated turbo no matter what - when in fact is requires A LOT to support around it and extremely invasive tuning, + pushing the turbo to the edge of it's compressors efficiency map - (23+ PSI) to make even close to 380 on a true Road Power Reading dyno

In regards to the original thread questions regarding the GT3071R - keep these things in mind for your setup

1. Keep the stock IM (stock im or long runners and small plenum mean more VE efficency in the low end and mid range) Larger plenums only help when they are used to accomodate a very very large compressor and a higher rev range (ie 8500 -9500 setup)
2. Use a standard T04E housing for the compressor on the GT3071R - do not use the ported housing (it's a surge protector which you do not need if you are using a properly placed bypass or blow off valve - and the T04S houinsg should not be used unless you are trying to use the turbo for drag racing - more top end squeeze on ponies but at the cost of slight delay on - onset).
3. For response - Ask for a .48 Housing use 256 Cams - Crank the boost to 20 PSI - just another idea. I have seen this work amazingly week while still seeing 380 whp on a dyno dynamics (about 440 whp on a dynojet and about 420 on a dyna pack )

So the perfect turbo for a 2.0 liter SR for drifting and output IMO is a .48 Housing - custom machined with a T04E compressor housing custome fitted on a GT3071R - using a single scroll manifold with a large single bypass valve (PWR makes a great one) right in front of your throttle body ( which should be a Q45) and running 100 octane with 20 - 22 psi all the time - with a stock Nissan Intake Manifold - a Power FC or Haltech tuned on a steady state dyno.

Expect insanely fast spool up with excellent transient response (better than a .78 ar twin scroll) and the possibiliy to reach 400 WHP @ 25 PSI

[steve shadows]

OH AND ON THE ORIGINAL QUESTION


I suggest using stock internals - if your motor is in great shape, then you can run about 500 Brake HP at length without it failing - this will be mostly up to how good your tuner is. not how conservative he is but how well he can tune.

If your bottom end is not however in great shape, stock Rods with JE or CP pistons will be fine. I suggest 8.8 : 1 compression and 18-20 PSI max with heat range 8 Plugs from NGK and a good quality MAP based EMS like a plug and play haltech E8 - the ECU is what makes a motor stronger not the pistons, any piston or rod will fry under shitty tuning conditions or a crap shoot hail marry want to be EMS like a e manage , afc or even the nis tune (jk) haha).

For example I have been pushing over 480-500 Brake HP on my Stock Container bottom end for the past 2.5 years now. This car uses 91 octane and a 100% stock Red Top bottom end, stock rods, pistons, bearings all original - My test bed/toy uses a .63 GT3076R Turbo, the only difference betwen it and the turbo you are thinking about is the Compressor wheel is 76 MM not 71MM - I use a T04S standard housing for max output as well as the Greddy IM - that has been modified to use a Q45 TB. I would typically not use an upgraded IM but this car is a test bed and in the name of science I have used this now for maximum dyno and road power

Tuned with Haltech E8 in steady state + power tuning on a dyno dynamics

Generates 405 WHP at 18 psi and 413 WHP at 18.5 PSI, and 420 WHP 19 psi.

All on the DD which reads approx 16% lower than a dyno jet, and 14% lower than a dyna-pack.

All I do is change the oil and beat the piss out of it - bouncing off the rev limited @ 8000 rpms with hydrolic lifters and all - 264 Step 2s - taken it to button willow several times and will be going for a 500 whp pull on it shortly here. Use a nice metal head gasket that incorporates a fire ring like a Apexi + some good head studs and you should be fine with a stock bottom end

This bottom end was simply inspected reassembled all stock original parts and then beat on to crap and back - again a testament of the tuning.

[KiDyNomiTe]

Originally Posted by Teambadrun

yeah, we have already seen you guy's have high reading Dyno's in USA

Well we aren't in Australia... Considering the majority of the US is based off of this "scale" of numbers that is our reference point, and our power levels. Anyone can make a dyno read just about anything, there are obviously a lot of variables where it makes it impossible for there to be one unified scale unless we all went to the same dyno. Regarding this guys question, more than likely people with a similar setup will have numbers on dynojets, so for reference the numbers are right.

[S13 curtis]

stock internals are strong and fine.

i ve seen a stock internal sr's with over 500whp for years.

when ever i go 3071 it will be on stock internals.

i would do built bottom end for a 3076 or 35r.

[water]

Originally Posted by Teambadrun

You are dreaming if you make 355rwhp man. Sorry....

yeah, we have already seen you guy's have high reading Dyno's in USA

so my figure's are realistic.

Garrett wouldn't even agree with your dyno figures, they just dont flow that air ...


I have figures, from experiance. I have had shitloads of differnt turbo's and SR combo's. oh also, from others. So it's not just my tuner, as he is the most popular in AUS for Nissans...

You're wrong.

My setup:
GT3071r .63ar
Peakboost mani
Turbosmart 38mm
Greddy IM
JWT C1 cams
ROM tuned by Martin @XAT
Stock bottom end



That was 14psi (not 1 bar) and held back b/c we were still tuning. I can't find my newer charts but I made over 350 to the wheels at 14psi. It aint no thang. At 17psi i was making 375whp.

[ni$mo350]

Originally Posted by steve shadows

OH AND ON THE ORIGINAL QUESTION


I suggest using stock internals - if your motor is in great shape, then you can run about 500 Brake HP at length without it failing - this will be mostly up to how good your tuner is. not how conservative he is but how well he can tune.

If your bottom end is not however in great shape, stock Rods with JE or CP pistons will be fine. I suggest 8.8 : 1 compression and 18-20 PSI max with heat range 8 Plugs from NGK and a good quality MAP based EMS like a plug and play haltech E8 - the ECU is what makes a motor stronger not the pistons, any piston or rod will fry under shitty tuning conditions or a crap shoot hail marry want to be EMS like a e manage , afc or even the nis tune (jk) haha).

For example I have been pushing over 480-500 Brake HP on my Stock Container bottom end for the past 2.5 years now. This car uses 91 octane and a 100% stock Red Top bottom end, stock rods, pistons, bearings all original - My test bed/toy uses a .63 GT3076R Turbo, the only difference betwen it and the turbo you are thinking about is the Compressor wheel is 76 MM not 71MM - I use a T04S standard housing for max output as well as the Greddy IM - that has been modified to use a Q45 TB. I would typically not use an upgraded IM but this car is a test bed and in the name of science I have used this now for maximum dyno and road power

Tuned with Haltech E8 in steady state + power tuning on a dyno dynamics

Generates 405 WHP at 18 psi and 413 WHP at 18.5 PSI, and 420 WHP 19 psi.

All on the DD which reads approx 16% lower than a dyno jet, and 14% lower than a dyna-pack.

All I do is change the oil and beat the piss out of it - bouncing off the rev limited @ 8000 rpms with hydrolic lifters and all - 264 Step 2s - taken it to button willow several times and will be going for a 500 whp pull on it shortly here. Use a nice metal head gasket that incorporates a fire ring like a Apexi + some good head studs and you should be fine with a stock bottom end

This bottom end was simply inspected reassembled all stock original parts and then beat on to crap and back - again a testament of the tuning.

If you don't mind me asking, what's your head setup? I see you kept the bottom end stock and you're using the 264's but what else are you using up top? Thanks for any info.

[Dousan_PG]

btw
i found my dyno post thing (you replied on it steve, build thread), i was wrong.
it was at 1 bar
360whp 296 torque
pfc djetro
dynapack
trying to find the scan from the dyno but no luck. it might be lost on my old harddrive.

oh yeah my head is valve job and shit. 5 angle i think? i forget. it was done sometime back and i cant remember the details.

and for the guy that asked,i dont street drive my car, sorry. its track only.

[slappythehomelessclown]

Originally Posted by wow-thats-a-cool-car

learn to drift with a KA not 450 whp

Best post ever? Damn near.

[cc4usmc]

Originally Posted by water

You're wrong.

My setup:
GT3071r .63ar

He was talking about the 2871 .64, not the 3071r.

[BPFTW]

Originally Posted by Teambadrun

you can't make over 350RWHP on a 3071R T3 ex gate .64 A/R exh housing with low boost.

Is that maybe because garrett doesn't make a .64 a/r T3?

[Teambadrun]

Originally Posted by BPFTW

Is that maybe because garrett doesn't make a .64 a/r T3?

They do a .63 a/r , for the 3071R.

[ZenkiCam]

would you shut up already? im getting a canadian impression from the aussies lately.

[Teambadrun]

[BPFTW]

I was just pointing out a technicality LOL...I know they make a .63

[Master Chief]

I have a fully built and Haltech tuned SR20DET (by myself) - with Tomei's 260's, Head ports polished on the exhaust side and fire chanbers, GT3071R-WG 0.86 A/R internal gate ,on a Tubular T25 flange'ed manifold. Greddy IM, 70mm TB, 740 Injectors etc....

Mind you that this Model of the GT3071 uses a smaller turbine wheel than the Standard GT30 wheels - wich is 54.5, instead of 60mm.

I got 457hp and 380lb/ft on a dynapack @ 20PSI , at the hubs.

The GT3071 compressor, on a 2L engine, is good for a max of 1.6Bar (24psi) boost, to produce its maximum flow.

In anyway, when you look at compressor maps, and compare turbo flow/power capability figures to actual engine power on a dyno, you must remeber, that an engine owes a big part of the power it makes, to AFR's and Timing tuning.
So if a turbo supports a max flow of 400hp, for example - with the proper tuning, and engine with this turbo could easely make 450+hp.

Turbo flow maps account only for the power an engine makes from the air flow into it - but always remeber the power you can make from AFR and timing tuning.