s15 helical lsd? 180sx lsd? obx lsd? school me on lsds plz

[jspeedm]

Originally Posted by S14DB

That's a suspension issue not the diffs problem.

agreed. i'm just saying that when this happens, a helical acts as an open diff and you can't use the ebrake trick. and before anyone says anything. i know, set up your suspension properly. this is just a hypothetical to make a point.

[rex2sx]

Originally Posted by jspeedm

agreed. i'm just saying that when this happens, a helical acts as an open diff and you can't use the ebrake trick. and before anyone says anything. i know, set up your suspension properly. this is just a hypothetical to make a point.

I see what your saying..I agree

[BigVinnie]

Originally Posted by jspeedm

agreed. i'm just saying that when this happens, a helical acts as an open diff and you can't use the ebrake trick. and before anyone says anything. i know, set up your suspension properly. this is just a hypothetical to make a point.

The only point that I would bring across is that a mega tight stiff suspension in most cases is not needed. Infact if you want to initiate a drift sooner at lower rates of speed you will want to have a much softer suspension. Roughly around a 6/4 spring rate on average and then depending on dampening deal with the spring rates from that point (possibly a 8/6 spring rate, but anything lower is actually much more comfortable for an HLSD to perform).
Unless you are a formula drift lisenced pro on a smooth track more than likely will a 2way diff, with a stiff 12/10 or 10/8 spring rate suspension would be needed.
On a practicle level most novice amature drifters aren't exceeding crazy 90 MPH speeds in the middle of a drift in which a tight suspension would be needed for higher G forces. Most tracks I go on I'm barely exceeding 65MPH and having a softer suspension has actually been more effective in making cleaner drifts, regardless of the slight body role. A softer suspension I find more effective for touge, mild drifting, auto x, and grip, I tend to like the suspension to utilize it's chassis geometry rather than leaving it so stiff that manuverability has decreased. This is why in most cases an HLSD is better than most diffs on the market, especially for it's price, it's the best bargain.
Anyone telling you that a super slammed ,mega tight spring rate is the way to go is a straight jackass poser IMO, and truely hasen't spent time on the track or on the touge.
In other words if you know how to build your suspension to your chassis's geometry, a helical for the price kicks serious ass.

[opponheimer]

yeah so i found out my vtc solenoid was unplugged (plug fell off), now as you can imagine my traction issues are magnified... even with brand new 275-40r17's at the top of third it gets squirly...


jeeeezus!

i need lsd.... and i'm pretty sure the subframe collars i installed only made it worse (correct?) shoot... they dont even make 305-40r17s, the max i can go is a 285

[S14DB]

Originally Posted by opponheimer

yeah so i found out my vtc solenoid was unplugged (plug fell off), now as you can imagine my traction issues are magnified... even with brand new 275-40r17's at the top of third it gets squirly...


jeeeezus!

i need lsd.... and i'm pretty sure the subframe collars i installed only made it worse (correct?) shoot... they dont even make 305-40r17s, the max i can go is a 285

The collars should reduce wheel hop and make it better. But you will only be getting half the traction without a LSD. Once one wheel breaks loose it's over. VTC is on below the TQ peak, increasing low end TQ. It being off would reduce low end power.

[Mkiisupra1982]

Originally Posted by ANVIL

ive read TONS of good things about obx lsds from the honda crowd but nothing really from the 240 community.

Not anymore. They used to be great, but now they are utter crap. As if quality control couldnt get any worse, they now have very bad issues with runout tolerance. I would avoid buying one unless you can do a runout test on it in person before you buy it.

[A&M Boy]

Originally Posted by redline racer510

A&Mcan you please enlighten us about how you replaced the "stack" and what parts you used and where you got them?

Originally Posted by opponheimer

Anyone know what size belleville springs need to go on a obx lsd? And is a press needed?

here's a great thread with pics of the 240 obx taken apart and other good info
OBX LSD for 240sx R200 - Page 2 - HybridZ

as far as specialty tools i used an impact wrench to take out the bolts that hold the casing togther but thats it, no presses needed.

when you get the diff there are like 9 or 10 bolts that hold the unit together that need to be removed. From there several helical gears that need to be removed surrounding a central gear. Under the central gear are two other straight cut gears that sandwich a set of belleville springs(they look like washers but the center is elevated above the outer edge). Mine were thin and brittle one was cracked and broken. I replaced them with a set of McMaster-Carr belleville springs that are a lot stronger as per the part numbers given to me by Aceinthehole. Its up to you to decide how you wish to stack them.()()()() setups yields the most deflection per load while a ))))))) setup will increase the load ability and minimise deflection. I believe the setup that the obx uses stock is (())(()), iirc i did mine ))(())((. Then its just a matter of putting everything back together.

A VERY IMPORTANT NOTE, when reassembling the diff find some kind of stick or something to run through the center of the diff to keep the springs aligned otherwise you might end up with an unpredictable diff.


Here are the part numbers for the 2 sets of springs from McMaster-Carr

9712K82 1 Pack High-carbon Steel Belleville Disc Spring, .630" Id, 1.250" Od, .040" Thick
9712K444 1 Pack High-carbon Steel Belleville Disc Spring, .531" Id, 1.250" Od, .062" Thick

Hope that helps!

[opponheimer]

The obx auction says "Make Sure To Check Backlash When Installing, Shim Properly."

What exactly do you need to shim?

[BigVinnie]

Originally Posted by opponheimer

The obx auction says "Make Sure To Check Backlash When Installing, Shim Properly."

What exactly do you need to shim?

Shims go at each end of the helical and bearings. Believe me you will need more than what is offered in the diff. Backlash is a tolerance that is required between the gear teeth. Too much or too little can be bad.

[NoPistons!]

Originally Posted by rex2sx

oh so my infos not legit, i hate you..lol

Dont worry im not lying, i studied rears for a month STRAIGHT in school..day in and out.

I studied rears all day every day in school.

Maybe we're not talking about the same rears....

OP, go helical.

Like you said, you're not drifting or anything so it really doesn't matter but the helical is pretty versitile anyway.

When i was in my dsm stage and was registered on 2gnt.com (lame) they had a huge discussion on why replacing $15 worth of washers on an obx was smarter than spending $800 on a quaife. Dunno if this batch they have out now is any better but i've heard that there was no c-clip seating area machined into obx diffs. Some people just didn't run them or cut seats in with a rotary tool of some sort. They may have stepped their game up after all the dsm hate mail they got during a group buy they had a couple years back.