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Old 06-07-2009, 03:46 AM   #1
kday
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KA Auto to Manual swap

I've tried searching the forum, going in and out of every thread that has to do with the auto to manual conversion and have yet to find a solution to my problem.

I just picked up an s14 that has an auto-manual conversion and for some reason the ignition is kinda finiky.

Whenever I try to start the vehicle in just about every running condition (morning/evenings cold and warm starts) it takes a few tries to get it going.

Picture this situation.. you're in a manual car and you go to crank the ignition without pressing on the clutch pedal

Its not an issue with the charging system.. It's pretty upsurd how sometimes it starts up in 1 try and sometimes 6+

If anyone experienced has any ideas or questions lmk, thanks in advance.
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Old 06-07-2009, 06:09 AM   #2
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I'm not sure that an auto to manual conversion has anything to do with it.
Check your fuel pump and see if it is coming on. I was having this problem, and it was because my fuel pump wiring was pretty old and crappy.
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Old 06-07-2009, 09:25 AM   #3
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First thing I would check is the park lock bypass. Sound to me like bad connection there.
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Old 06-07-2009, 10:55 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by prodigyJJ View Post
I'm not sure that an auto to manual conversion has anything to do with it.
Check your fuel pump and see if it is coming on. I was having this problem, and it was because my fuel pump wiring was pretty old and crappy.
to me it sounds more like an electrical (ignition) issue than a fuel problem

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jonnie Fraz View Post
First thing I would check is the park lock bypass. Sound to me like bad connection there.
tried google with no luck, how would I go about checking it?
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Old 06-07-2009, 11:14 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jonnie Fraz View Post
First thing I would check is the park lock bypass. Sound to me like bad connection there.
that would just disallow you to remove the key from the ignition.

Its an injector o-ring, or leaky injector.
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Old 06-07-2009, 11:24 AM   #6
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does it click when you turn it but it doesnt start?
if so that can be a bad starter
if not
then it could be the connection where the park safety switch was bypassed which is by your fuse box
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Old 06-07-2009, 01:34 PM   #7
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^ that's what I was thinking also but I'm still open to other opinions

It doesn't click it's just completely silent, imagine yourself trying to start a car without engaging the clutch pedal or with the gear selector in gear in an automatic. I can hear the fuel pump prime but no ignition after a few tries it will start up as if nothing was ever wrong with it.
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Old 06-07-2009, 01:59 PM   #8
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Does your car have an alarm?
check your wires to your ignition, could be lose, and if you do have an alarm that you dont use it any more, you still have the harness in. sounds like an electrical problem
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Old 06-07-2009, 05:06 PM   #9
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so far every answer I have heard could be right. Fuel pump deff possibility, wiring in the ignition system for sure might have something to do with it. Injectors is another possibility I mean really if you want to solve your problem you need to trial and error till you figure it out. Its already been pointed out that you should start with the ignition system and the fuel system I recommend using a DVOM for testing all the electrical stuff your bound to find the problem. Good luck man
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Old 06-07-2009, 08:47 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kday View Post
to me it sounds more like an electrical (ignition) issue than a fuel problem
DING DING DING!!!....we have a winner!!!...Give this boy a CIGAR!!!

S14 ignition switches, (like all other cars), can go bad. I learned this from experience years ago. The symptoms you are describing sound exactly like a failing electrical portion of the ignition switch. Click on the attached link to see what the assembly looks like. Don't let the information on the webpage fool you...the 95's thru 98 use a switch that is almost like the 89-94 switch.

Family Car - Auto Parts and Accessories Catalog - Nissan 240sx Ignition Switch - Nissan 240SX Ignition Switch

A lot of people tend to forget that the ignition switch is part of the STARTING system and forget to test the electrical portion of the switch itself when diagnosing STARTING problems. Remember...the electrical portion of the switch consists of the following positions ...OFF ...ACC ...ON and ...START.

Even though the ACC & ON positions of the switch may still be in good working condition, it's possible that the START position on the switch has gone bad. What that means is when you turn the ignition switch to the START position that current from the battery won't continue on to the starter relay / starter, hence your starting problems. Over time the inner plastic portions of the switch fails due to the high amperage passing thru it every time the car is started.

Easiest thing to do here is to get your hands on a FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL...(you can download one here on Zilvia.Net....use the SEARCH function), and follow the troubleshooting / testing procedures for the ignition switch. Remove the plastic steering column cover, unplug the wires from the harness that come off the white round electrical portion of your ignition switch, remove the two phillips head screws holding the electrical portion of your ignition switch in & remove the electrical portion of the switch. Stick a small screwdriver in the slotted portion of the electrical switch & test each position with a volt/ohm meter / continuity tester. If the START portion of the switch is going bad, you'll know it once you test it.

Anyhow, I hope this helps....

ID

edit:
You can find your part at Rock Auto, (www.rockauto.com):

http://www.rockauto.com/dbphp/prt,903,1S6350
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Old 06-07-2009, 08:54 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigsyke View Post
that would just disallow you to remove the key from the ignition.
Not always...If you unplug the key capture from the ignition you will be able to get the key out. Since we have no idea how this particular car was wired, it will be hard to tell. I did both on my swap that is how I know.
On an S14 you should have a plug by the fuse box under the hood that has two wires looped back to one another. That should be your park lock bypass, just have a buddy bump the two wires as you try to start it.
It is a simple check that is why I was saying check it first. If that is not it then alarm sounds like a good suspect.
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Old 06-07-2009, 09:55 PM   #12
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I have the exact same problem. I bought my car and it was an auto transfered to a manual like 2 years ago. I started having the werid starting symptoms a month ago. Sometimes it starts in 1 times sometimes 2 or 3 and sometimes like a million. Replacing the ingition switch looks like super easy. Is there anything i should watch out for.
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Old 06-08-2009, 05:05 PM   #13
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the car doesn't have an alarm, that was one of the first things that came to mind and that I checked for.

I think I am leaning towards your side idlafie when testing the ignition with a dmm what should I be testing the amperage while cranking or the resistance? and what readings should I be looking for?
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Old 06-08-2009, 05:25 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jonnie Fraz View Post
Not always...If you unplug the key capture from the ignition you will be able to get the key out. Since we have no idea how this particular car was wired, it will be hard to tell. I did both on my swap that is how I know.
On an S14 you should have a plug by the fuse box under the hood that has two wires looped back to one another. That should be your park lock bypass, just have a buddy bump the two wires as you try to start it.
It is a simple check that is why I was saying check it first. If that is not it then alarm sounds like a good suspect.

The 2 wires by the fuse box are your clutch switch. I just finished a 5speed swap. The key looking thing by your shifter has nothing to do with electronics, only to ensure your car is in park before you remove your key from the ignition.

Disregard my post about the fuel because I didnt read it wasnt cranking.
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