Engine Build List, almost done.

[weirdstyles.net]

So I found a "super cool" engine shop today. Its actually within walking distance from my house! I've known about the shop, but I didnt know they played with 4cyls! As I walked in, he was just finishing witha SR20DET block, sent in from SKR (assholes)!! Long story short, turns out I reunited the owner and my Dad who were best friends when they were about 18, and found out they need a site. So a lil exchange of services and I should be in the business. Ok, I have Lisa at Fonse Performance asked me to find these parts for my DOHC, coming soon, to build the fauker. I think I have done good so far, been two hours already and only two sites have really helped me. RaceEng.com and ImportPerformanceParts.com, let me know what you think and if you can help me complete the list:


Not Found
Cam Bearings
Camshaft
Oil Pump Screen
Timing Chain Guide
Rod Bolts
Rod Nuts
Head Bolt Set
Keeper Set?
Push Rods
Rocker Arm Kit
Poly locks
Intake Guide/Liners
Exhuast Guide/Liners
Valve Stem Seals
Guide Plates
Valve Spring Shims


Found @ RaceEng.com
Connecting Rods - CR-B93774B CROWER BILLET ROD:NISSAN KA24 $665
Retainers - FR-E11021 TI RETAINERS:NISSAN KA24DE $12.43 EA
Pistons - XT-554P895 NISSAN 2.4(KA24DE):89.5mm/9:1 $409 SET
Piston Ring Set - RA-RS8950 1x1.2x2.8mm RING SET:89.50mm-STD $96 SET


Found @ ImportPerformanceParts.com
Rod Bearings - 240SX KA24DE 2389cc(145.7") 1991-94 16 VALVE; DOHC 4; F.INJ. 89mm(3.504") 96mm(3.78") - RBD30-HP $59
Main Bearings - 240SX KA24DE 2389cc(145.7") 1991-94 16 VALVE; DOHC 4; F.INJ. 89mm(3.504") 96mm(3.78") - MBD30-HP $75
Lifters - 240SX KA24DE 2389cc(145.7") 1991-94 16 VALVE; DOHC 4; F.INJ. 89mm(3.504") 96mm(3.78") - LIFD31 $13.00
Intake Valves - 240SX KA24DE 2389cc(145.7") 1991-94 16 VALVE; DOHC 4; F.INJ. 89mm(3.504") 96mm(3.78") - IVD31 - $9.00
Exhaust Valves - 240SX KA24DE 2389cc(145.7") 1991-94 16 VALVE; DOHC 4; F.INJ. 89mm(3.504") 96mm(3.78") - EVD31 - $12.00
Crank Shaft - 240SX KA24DE 2389cc(145.7") 1991-94 16 VALVE; DOHC 4; F.INJ. 89mm(3.504") 96mm(3.78") - CSD28L - $249.00
Freeze Plug Set - 240SX KA24DE 2389cc(145.7") 1991-94 16 VALVE; DOHC 4; F.INJ. 89mm(3.504") 96mm(3.78") - EPSD15 - $7.00
Complete Gasket Set - 240SX KA24DE 2389cc(145.7") 1991-94 16 VALVE; DOHC 4; F.INJ. 89mm(3.504") 96mm(3.78") -CGSD31L - $130.00
High Vol Oil Pump - 240SX KA24DE 2389cc(145.7") 1991-94 16 VALVE; DOHC 4; F.INJ. 89mm(3.504") 96mm(3.78") - OPD-31-HV - $199.99
Titanium Retainers - See: http://www.importperformanceparts.ne...retainers.html -E11021 - $199
Valve Springs - See: http://www.importperformanceparts.ne..._vsnissan.html - S10043 - $242.00
Timing Chain Kit - 240SX KA24DE 2389cc(145.7") 1991-94 16 VALVE; DOHC 4; F.INJ. 89mm(3.504") 96mm(3.78") - CTKD31 - $229.00


Found these, decided to list for reference
Complete Engine - 240SX KA24DE 2389cc(145.7") 1991-94 16 VALVE; DOHC 4; F.INJ. 89mm(3.504") 96mm(3.78") - CED31 - $1832.00
Short Block - 240SX KA24DE 2389cc(145.7") 1991-94 16 VALVE; DOHC 4; F.INJ. 89mm(3.504") 96mm(3.78") - SBD31 - $817.00
Cyl Head w/ Valves - 240SX KA24DE 2389cc(145.7") 1991-94 16 VALVE; DOHC 4; F.INJ. 89mm(3.504") 96mm(3.78") - CHVD31 - $460.00
Comp. Head w/Cam - 240SX KA24DE 2389cc(145.7") 1991-94 16 VALVE; DOHC 4; F.INJ. 89mm(3.504") 96mm(3.78") - CCHD31 - $723.00
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Notes: Valves also found by Manley
Valve Springs also found at RaceEng.com

[weirdstyles.net]

omg, no one?

Can someone atleast let me know about importPerformanceParts.com's reputation. Anyone bought from there, any thing I can look for?

Do you know of other companies, or have had expereince? What would you like to do? Come now, I know my engines, but when it comes to building them, im a little in the dark. Just a lil help?

[Andy5]

uh, you have a real big pocket and should send some of it my way Talk about a high HP KA motor :\ man you aren't leaving any bit stock are you......

[240Dave]

What are your plans for the motor? With all that, you may as well get even lower compression pistons and slap a huge turbo on...

[weirdstyles.net]

Leave something stock? Not if I can help it. The prices listed are totalling near 3k and I havnt finished. But remember, this is retail price, hopefully the shop can get the parts for cost.

Lower comp, big turbo. Yes and Kinda. Cant go TO big! The pistons listed there are bull****, I mean the exist, but they are there for financial guestimation. I will have valley pistons to lower the compression. We are discussing the C/R ratio and other bull**** tommarow morning.

I think the following

Rocker Arm Kit - See Camshaft answer...

intake guide/liners - Stock i guess?

exhuast guide/liners - Stock i guess?

Valve Stem Seals - Stock i guess?

Guide Plates - WTF are these?

valve spring shims - Arent these universal?

Along with all the other head/valve bullsh*t would be easier/simpilar to order as a complete head, and just swap the shaft and springs? No/yes?

[FRpilot]

wasn't there a thread somewhere discussing camshafts. go with the $600 jwt ones. those seem like the best but expensive.

[weirdstyles.net]

sh*t thats RIGHT, thank FRpilot... way to save the day

oh, my dreams of this motor are mainly auto-x, but I understand I will be eliminated due to the ammount of work going into the engine, i guess. But I will be turbo-charging, roughly one year after completeion of the engine build.

Question, if/when the compression is lowered, if the vehicle remains N/A (for that year) will I notice a huge loss in power?

and how could i forget PDM?1

[240Dave]

If it runs, use 87 oct fuel (heh), yes you will likely loose a lot of power. Can't go halfassed on something like this

[weirdstyles.net]

shizzle...I wanna get this **** done, but its steps. Motor first, buy the car second, turbo charge third.

You see its all a project, I still have my SOHC. What it looks like now is Engine Build, Turbo (probably Nsport Stage I) then purchase the car. A year+ project, at least.

edit: financal planning, looks like 4 months of budgetting for the engine alone... but it oh so worth it. And with luck, working closely with the shop and all the prices should drop dramtically...

[kandyflip445]

http://www.ka24de.com/

They have the head bolt set, keepers(retainers on the site). The valve stem seals should be fine OEM. The timing chain guide should be OEM too. Push rods???? I wasn't aware our cars had them....

Could you elaborate on the intake guide/liner and exhaust guide/liner? I'm not sure what you are talking about.

[kandyflip445]

Crower says the connecting rods come with rod bolts.

[kandyflip445]

If you are gonna put this much work into the engine you should go with lower comp. pistons when you build it up. You will feel it be a little more sluggish but as long as you aren't racing it really shouldn't matter that much. The power loss won't be HUGE but it will be noticable.

Sorry about the multiple posts. I forgot about the edit button and I'm too lazy to fix it now....

[240Dave]

Actually, I'm a pretty dumb guy...
Just run 87 oct and (the part I forgot) change your timing and it shouldn't run too bad. I can't remember what stock compression is but I think it is 9.5:1 right? If you go to 8.5:1 (what psi240sx ran on his 400+ hp s14) I think it should still work with ****ty fuel and retarded timing right???

[weirdstyles.net]

im pretty sure we DONT have push rods, she handed me a generic list of bull****.

Yes for got to take the rod bolts out, crower does supply them.

Thanks for the site

I dont think the lack of power should kill me too much.

Have no clue what the guides are, once again, a generic list of shizzle. I didnt get to meet with her, she is preparing for Huricane Isable, which I probably should too! But we will see....

word

ps. thanks for the site

[weirdstyles.net]

Going to upgrade to the pistons, rods, valves, springs, retainers from KA24DE. They atleast offer description and specs regarding the parts.

Sub Total (retail) - 3112.68

The parts should take about four months of saving. As far as I know, the labor will be completely covered, but we are still in negotiations. I am also, whether or not there will be a discout, going to carry Fonse Performance as my main sponsor. They are looking to advertise for Imports, so I figured me slapping a viynal on my car wont tear it up. The plans thus far.

October '03- Purchase used engine, preferably with under 80k

Feburary '04 - Purchase Engine Build parts, send it all over to Fonse

June '04 - Purchse 92/93 Five speed 240SX, Insert engine here. Start driving the damn thing...finally!

December '04 - (With gutted engine bay) Send car for Paint w/ GP Sport Full kit (either Onyx Black or a Dk Green Pearl or Electron Blue Pearl)

April '05 - Stuff as much air in that biatch with a heaping dose of FI

So hopefully, within a year and three months, my new project should be rolling nicely. That is the main line of my project, supposing all goes well. This may be expidited with some "crash cash", which is money I earn from websites, may shorten the time by 3 to 4 months depending on circumstances. After all this its on to wheels and tires, then save a bunch for a coil over kit and some suspension goodies. Then its all play time, with random bullsh*t here and there.

edit: here Excel doc, to make things easier"
http://home.comcast.net/~Weird240Styles/engine.xls

[andrave]

if you don't mind regrinded cams pdm racing's have a significant economic advantage over the other brands.

As for engine parts, I've been looking at pistons myself. You have 9:1 listed, where can you find 8.5:1 and if I'm looking at like a 400 hp or more engine... I want 8.5:1.

I'm hoping that crower will come out with econo billets for tha ka, rods are so expensive....

Also I didn't see an upgraded headgasket in your list either, you will probably want an aftermarket one to hold some boost.

[weirdstyles.net]

Originally posted by andrave
if you don't mind regrinded cams pdm racing's have a significant economic advantage over the other brands.

As for engine parts, I've been looking at pistons myself. You have 9:1 listed, where can you find 8.5:1 and if I'm looking at like a 400 hp or more engine... I want 8.5:1.

I'm hoping that crower will come out with econo billets for tha ka, rods are so expensive....

Also I didn't see an upgraded headgasket in your list either, you will probably want an aftermarket one to hold some boost.

The 8.5:1, I have change my list, are listed at KA24DE.COM. As for the head gasket, Im looking for one of the 2mm metal head gaskets, but only found em for theSR20...Ill end up with copper probably...

Ill probably go with custom cams, gives me flexibility and what have you...

*bling*

[andrave]

I emailed raceeng.com, they have some .43 inch aftermarket headgaskets for the KA that are advertised for use with turbo charged engines, so I'm gonna find out about that.
Copper headgasket would be a bad idea for a street car.

[240Dave]

"Copper headgasket would be a bad idea for a street car."

This is probably a dumb question, but...why would it be bad for a street car?

[kandyflip445]

From what I've read generally KA-T ppl stick with the OEM gasket. Obviously of very good quality.

[GlacierFreeze]

If you're buying all new stuff for the engine, why get one with under 80k? Buy one for reeeeal cheap with 150k+ miles from a junk yard, put the pistons, rods, and everything else you're buying new in it and you've got yourself a brand new built engine for a little less.

Oh yeah bore the cylinders .020 over and get the pistons that much oversized.

[weirdstyles.net]

Originally posted by GlacierFreeze
If you're buying all new stuff for the engine, why get one with under 80k? Buy one for reeeeal cheap with 150k+ miles from a junk yard, put the pistons, rods, and everything else you're buying new in it and you've got yourself a brand new built engine for a little less.

Oh yeah bore the cylinders .020 over and get the pistons that much oversized.

I totaly understand your concept but this is sort of a one shot deal. Money is hella tight, if I purchase a 130k engine, and find out the head's ****ed or the block was overheated beyond repair, I cant exactly show up at the sellers house with a box of parts! Also I dont want to have to get close the the 20 over mark. My feelings, which are shared by the shop, being that this block wasnt built for 400-500HP, we want to keep the walls as thick as possible. This means, hopefully finding a block that is in great shape and only needs a minor shavin...

I talked to Lisa yesterday, she is going to help me source a motor. Before we start building anything we are going have which ever block we buy, checked. Have all the spec.s measured out to make sure she is the best block for the build.

Headgasket - Copper bad? Why is that? What material are raceeng.com's gaskets made out of?

[s14slide]

from what I've read, copper haed gaskets tend to leak coolant. Outside of the engine and into the cylinders when the engine's not running, which if you haven't figured out yet would be bad for a street engine.

[240Dave]

Hrm, sounds like it's just poorly made. Unless that particular material expands and contracts a lot causing the leaking when the engine is cool...

[weirdstyles.net]

hmmm....looks like copper out of the question. How about Marshmellow? Would that work... he he he...

anywho. Looks like either the raceeng.com gasket or the stocker...

[andrave]

yea copper gaskets leak coolant, the only way to get them to stop is to seal them, and even then the sealant car burn out or can get in your coolant.
Anyway, they are a bad idea for cars with different heat expansion properties too (iron block and alloy head, for example).
I haven't heard back from the guy at raceeng about the composition of the cometic headgaskets.
ka24de.com also has high performance fel pro's.

[FRpilot]

maybe mr gasket or whoever makes those gaskets you see in the import mag ads for built engine parts. ka24de has everything. i love their site and their support for the ka engine.

anyways, i would love to see your monster ka. why dont you get even lower compression? say 8:1. i heard ppl going 7.5:1 also. and then slap on a t3/t4 hybrid and boost 25+ psi?

[kapower]

Your list does not cantian essentials of a performance rebuild. Balancing the rotating assembly, knife egding the crank, micro polishing the crank journals, If you switch to aftermarket pistons, & rods you should balance the rotating assembly, since the new components are lighter. lightened flywheel, light wieght under drive pullys, aftemarket clutch, nismo, or solid engine and tranny mounts, new vacume lines, new heater/radiater hoses, hose clamps, zip ties, all kinds of little items that will really nickel and dime you to death. Good luck though, keep us updated, this should turn out to be very interesting.

[kapower]

ARP makes a head bolt set for the KA24DE, www.240sx.org has a link to purchase them. I don't think the cam uses bearings, but it could be. The timing chain guide(s) should come with the timing chain kit. I don't think it is necassary to replace the stock/factory crank in your used engine, just use the origanal crank and have it turned and do the works to it.

[andrave]

if you buy pistons/rods that are well matched you aren't going to have to balance too much, though it is a good idea.
As far as lightening the crank, I wouldn't... I've seen a couple before/after tests and lightening the crank actually slows your car down off the line.