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Old 01-02-2011, 02:55 PM   #1
roadster6909
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Bolt & head ticking problem

So after tapping the thread i made a new bolt, washers, and put it in, its still leaking.
Unscrewed it, had some shavings inside the bolt from tapping, took it out put back in and still leaking..

I don't understand why it is still leaking from the lower line from the turbo by the block??

EDIT: Not leaking anymore, used rubber washers, but they will most likely melt... Still ticks though.
Im going to take the turbo in to sound performance, chicago, and they are going to do this for me, after that im going to work on the noise but i need suggestions. as to what you guys think it is

Around 2 mins(After it sits by the shifter, second try, it fires up and idles fine.)

Car running bogging cold start head noise. Most likely due to loss of oil pressure.
http://s1107.photobucket.com/albums/...t=M4H05098.mp4

Last edited by roadster6909; 01-08-2011 at 01:23 PM..
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Old 01-02-2011, 09:39 PM   #2
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dude i feel your pain. i got the same bolt leaking and a ticking sound coming from my head too! if i dont work tomorrow im gonna bleed the lifters and check that for my noise. and for the bolt i might just put some honda bond or some type of silicone. its not a daily driver so i dont know. lol good luck
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Old 01-02-2011, 10:04 PM   #3
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Helicoil or weld on a -AN fitting with Steel braided lines.

Bleed lifters
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Old 01-02-2011, 11:51 PM   #4
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Is their an alternative for the bolt? Tapping kits cost like 75$..It screws in but you cant tighten it all the way, just turns and turns..Idk if loctite would work due to oil pressure... suggestions?
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Old 01-03-2011, 05:09 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roadster6909 View Post
Is their an alternative for the bolt? Tapping kits cost like 75$..It screws in but you cant tighten it all the way, just turns and turns..Idk if loctite would work due to oil pressure... suggestions?
Really Guy?

That shit is stripped meaning the threads are fucked, these are your only two options for a real reliable fix

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Helicoil or weld on a -AN fitting with Steel braided lines.
Loctight wont do shit
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Old 01-03-2011, 08:49 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roadster6909 View Post
Is their an alternative for the bolt? Tapping kits cost like 75$..It screws in but you cant tighten it all the way, just turns and turns..Idk if loctite would work due to oil pressure... suggestions?
sileighty just told you what to do... and yes you can tap and die it as well
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Old 01-03-2011, 02:31 PM   #7
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My pops works with metal and i don't have the keys to my garage.. he's going to make me a bit longer of a bolt.
And ill put some loctite on that thing; i'll post results.

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Old 01-06-2011, 03:39 PM   #8
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Up loaded pics/ vids/ information, tapped it and put new bolt but still leaking from somewhere
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Old 01-06-2011, 07:07 PM   #9
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that sounds way louder than what im talking about. get some brake cleaner and spray off that whole side of the block. once its clean use a flash light and look to see. is your turbo oil line hooked up? i hope your block isnt cracked. thats a lot of oil. good luck bro
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Old 01-07-2011, 03:20 PM   #10
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Cleaned it up, found its still coming from turbo line, unscrewed bolt, tried blowing through it and barely could.. Looked inside the bolt, and all i see are a bunch of metal shavings inside of it, from the tapping.. Would this cause it to leak? Would i be able to use this bolt if i took the shavings out? Kind of looks like it worn a bit, as shown in pics.

Edit: I cleaned out the shavings, put it back in, and it is still freakin leaking, theirs no way! Why?!

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Old 01-07-2011, 05:11 PM   #11
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Weld on -AN fitting

Problem solved
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Old 01-07-2011, 05:36 PM   #12
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What do you mean by -an fitting?
Sorry, but i don't know what an "-AN fitting is"
Google shows various of pictures, im curious as to what exactly you mean..
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Old 01-07-2011, 06:24 PM   #13
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does the bolt tighten up?
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Old 01-07-2011, 06:29 PM   #14
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Yessir, I retapped the thread, got a new, bigger bolt, tapped the oil line, bolt didnt fit so i drilled a bit so the bolt can turn and tighten without messing up the thread in the block. Tightens up nice and good, have copper "break hose bolt washers" On both sides. Still leaks from the washers it seems like because it's wet.
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Old 01-07-2011, 07:00 PM   #15
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Something like this
Summit Racing SUM-220063 - Summit Racing® Weld-In Bungs - Overview - SummitRacing.com

you weld it in place of where the bolt goes,

They are easier and seal way better than banjo bolts
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Old 01-07-2011, 07:05 PM   #16
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Is their anything i can buy that would be at a local store/ shop?.. Anything else that would work?
These copper brake washers are doing a poor job sealing.
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Old 01-08-2011, 10:07 AM   #17
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Used rubber washers and that solved the leaking problem, but cant use them because they will melt..now time to find out what the head noise is D:<
Suggestions?



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