T25 Turbo Oil Feed Line - Zilvia.net Forums | Nissan 240SX (Silvia) and Z (Fairlady) Car Forum

MudRacer · 04-04-2011, 07:33 PM

I made a rookie mistake and took my car to a mechanic ive never been to before to have him replace the washers on the turbo coolant lines.

He ended up taking out the entire setup to replace them, in the process he messes up the threads for the oil feed line right below the P/S pump.

He was going to attempt to put Helicoil in there but I wasnt comfortable with his work so I told him to leave it alone, I may plug the hole up and taek the feed from elsewhere, and that I needed to assess the situation and see how bad the threads are. This took place over the phone

When I come to pickup the car, he has already plugged up the hole with a different thread screw. Started the car to see if it leaks.

I am extremely pissed but at this point, I have the following two options and need your help on whats the best route for me to go.

Should I
a. take out that plug and put the standard M12 1.25 thread helicoil inserts and use the hardline to run the oil to the turbo? Can this be done with the engine in the car?

b. Leave that bolt closed and run the oil feed from elsewhere.
1. I have a greddy oil relocation kit that has 2 holes for I believe an oil pressure sensor and an oil temperature. Can I somehow plug into that and take that to the turbo? Is that enough pressure? What kind of steel braided lines would I need
2. Should I BUY a sandwich plate to push the oil from the Oil filter location.

What should I do? My car is dead in the water I had it towed home.

Really bummed out about something so minor ending up to be a PITA.

I am running a S13 SR20DET T25 Stock turbo with all stock lines. I do not have the A/C compressor unit. This is in a 95 240SX Body.

Sileighty_85 · 04-04-2011, 07:44 PM

Either helicoil the feed or

buy some steel braided lines (recommended) and have an -AN male fitting welded to the feed hole

MudRacer · 04-04-2011, 07:49 PM

The engine is in the car, doesnt seem like itd be easy to weld on aluminum? would it even hold the temperatures?

Sileighty_85 · 04-04-2011, 07:51 PM

might be a pain to weld it on with it in the car,

lol yeah it will hold just fine, this is a common problem and those are the only fixes

MudRacer · 04-04-2011, 07:53 PM

hah that sucks man. Are you telling me I need to pull this thing out of the car?

Is this an option and can I do it while the engine is still in the car?

DIY stripped oil feed sr20det : 240sx General Discussion

Sileighty_85 · 04-04-2011, 07:59 PM

all depends on the space I think you could do it just fine with the turbo assembly off

that'd work too, most ppl would just weld that top portion of the fitting on there so, so you wouldnt have to worry about metal shavings

MudRacer · 04-04-2011, 08:11 PM

ah the welding. I cant take the car to a shop I just brought it home. Dont have weld tools or experience.

I do have a GReddy oil filter relocation kit. Should I buy a steel braided line as a temporary fix to drive the car around? Is that a good enough pressure to go to the turbo? is an oil restrictor needed there?

edit: I have a greddy oversize oil pan. Should I just take the secondary hole from there? is that also an option. I just need the car up and running

Sileighty_85 · 04-04-2011, 08:23 PM

well i would either do the helicoil or that Nico fix (id probably do the Nico fix)

Tha banjo bolt is the restricor (so yes you will need one)

the oil pan will not feed oil to the turbo needs be be from th block

fukusdm01 · 04-05-2011, 06:41 PM

Yo this happened to me last month. Stripped the same hole for the oil feed. Just find a small enough drill and put a lil bit of grease on the bit to catch the metal shavings. And for the Helicoil kit, just go on Amazon and look for one.. thats where i got mine. After you buy that kit, you just need to buy a 31/64 drill bit.. got mine from Sears. Good luck.. its pretty easy if u go slow and take your time.

MudRacer · 04-13-2011, 08:36 AM

i couldn't get a drill to fit in there while the engine was in. Is there a way i can route the oil from the oil filter temporarily so I can take the car to a shop?

Redmonkey · 04-13-2011, 08:16 PM

Buy an oil sandwich plate. It should have a couple places on it to run your return line and oil pressure sensor. Just block off the stripped one.

zurud · 04-16-2011, 03:21 AM

Get a close quarter drill. You can get helicoil from any autoparts store. If you want it welded, call welding shop around you. Somebody must have mobile welder. The AN fitting is thick enough to be welded using spool gun.

JDMRIDDAZ · 04-16-2011, 12:46 PM

remove oil pressure sender cause it worthless any way
buy the ka t25 oil line...
it goes from sender 1/8npt to oil inlet on turbo
and leave block off on there...
i kno the sr block is 1/8bspt
but it fits if u screw it in nicely
i have an autometer pressure sender screw to my sr for 3 yrs no probs
u would need proper tools to do helicoil
and the line s would stay oem...
this is why ss lines r the best for sr..
so u dont srtip that hole
and never let a general mechanic work on a masterpiece like the sr20det

lazysk8er2 · 04-16-2011, 04:06 PM

i had the same problem...i tried to tap and helicoil the block...it didnt work the first time so i tapped it again and put a hairline crack in the block...it was down hill from there eventually got a new block

JDMRIDDAZ · 04-16-2011, 04:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lazysk8er2

i had the same problem...i tried to tap and helicoil the block...it didnt work the first time so i tapped it again and put a hairline crack in the block...it was down hill from there eventually got a new block

exactally why i said wat i said...
just find another oil out put and move on
it will be fine
the line is like under 30 buks too
just check it out
36" T25 TURBO OIL FEED LINE KIT SR20 CA18 KA24 S13 S14 | eBay
im gunna opt for for the 1/8 npt - 4-an fitting which is a couple more bucks
with problem solved

boobs13 · 04-16-2011, 04:29 PM

Damn this sucks, just take out the turbo, headers all in one and you'll be able to have room to work on it.

fukusdm01 · 04-17-2011, 01:35 PM

Man when I did this, i didnt have any problems. Just removed the intake and hotpipe and had enough room to fit a small drill inside. Was a breeze after that. Good luck!

MudRacer · 05-27-2011, 12:09 PM

A month or more has passed? Damn my car has been parked forever. I figured the best course of action would be to put Time-Sert in which is supposed to be better than Helicoil.

I ended up pulling out the engine, cleaning the hell out of it and the engine bay. Replaced some of the gaskets while I was at it.

When the engine was out it was MUCH easier to just Drill and Tap a new Time-Sert thread on there. I'm pretty sure I did it right. I'll find out monday when I start the car.

I also tried to find turbo feed lines that would and work for my issue, but it didnt make sense to spend the amount of money only to avoid the problem. Also it was taking far too long to get them in my hand after shipping etc.

I just put the engine back in last weekend. Got everything screwed in. This allowed me to finally bolt up the A/C on the SR as well.

04-04-2011, 07:33 PM	#1
MudRacer Zilvia Addict Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: SoCali-IE Posts: 645 Trader Rating: (6) Feedback Score: 6 reviews	T25 Turbo Oil Feed Line I made a rookie mistake and took my car to a mechanic ive never been to before to have him replace the washers on the turbo coolant lines. He ended up taking out the entire setup to replace them, in the process he messes up the threads for the oil feed line right below the P/S pump. He was going to attempt to put Helicoil in there but I wasnt comfortable with his work so I told him to leave it alone, I may plug the hole up and taek the feed from elsewhere, and that I needed to assess the situation and see how bad the threads are. This took place over the phone When I come to pickup the car, he has already plugged up the hole with a different thread screw. Started the car to see if it leaks. I am extremely pissed but at this point, I have the following two options and need your help on whats the best route for me to go. Should I a. take out that plug and put the standard M12 1.25 thread helicoil inserts and use the hardline to run the oil to the turbo? Can this be done with the engine in the car? b. Leave that bolt closed and run the oil feed from elsewhere. 1. I have a greddy oil relocation kit that has 2 holes for I believe an oil pressure sensor and an oil temperature. Can I somehow plug into that and take that to the turbo? Is that enough pressure? What kind of steel braided lines would I need 2. Should I BUY a sandwich plate to push the oil from the Oil filter location. What should I do? My car is dead in the water I had it towed home. Really bummed out about something so minor ending up to be a PITA. I am running a S13 SR20DET T25 Stock turbo with all stock lines. I do not have the A/C compressor unit. This is in a 95 240SX Body. __________________

04-04-2011, 07:44 PM	#2
Sileighty_85 Post Whore! Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Misawa, Japan Posts: 6,815 Trader Rating: (8) Feedback Score: 8 reviews	Either helicoil the feed or buy some steel braided lines (recommended) and have an -AN male fitting welded to the feed hole __________________ 後輪駆動車１番 1989 Built SR GT2871R -363whp 1998 S14 W/RB25- 250ish (For Now) 1986 SR86 - 200ish 1990 R32 GTR - 320hp Don't Buy Engines from JDM-Online http://zilvia.net/f/businesses/207457-jdm-online.html Don't Buy XS-Power or SSAC Shit

04-04-2011, 07:49 PM	#3
MudRacer Zilvia Addict Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: SoCali-IE Posts: 645 Trader Rating: (6) Feedback Score: 6 reviews	The engine is in the car, doesnt seem like itd be easy to weld on aluminum? would it even hold the temperatures? __________________

04-04-2011, 07:51 PM	#4
Sileighty_85 Post Whore! Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Misawa, Japan Posts: 6,815 Trader Rating: (8) Feedback Score: 8 reviews	might be a pain to weld it on with it in the car, lol yeah it will hold just fine, this is a common problem and those are the only fixes __________________ 後輪駆動車１番 1989 Built SR GT2871R -363whp 1998 S14 W/RB25- 250ish (For Now) 1986 SR86 - 200ish 1990 R32 GTR - 320hp Don't Buy Engines from JDM-Online http://zilvia.net/f/businesses/207457-jdm-online.html Don't Buy XS-Power or SSAC Shit

04-04-2011, 07:53 PM	#5
MudRacer Zilvia Addict Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: SoCali-IE Posts: 645 Trader Rating: (6) Feedback Score: 6 reviews	hah that sucks man. Are you telling me I need to pull this thing out of the car? Is this an option and can I do it while the engine is still in the car? DIY stripped oil feed sr20det : 240sx General Discussion __________________

04-04-2011, 07:59 PM	#6
Sileighty_85 Post Whore! Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Misawa, Japan Posts: 6,815 Trader Rating: (8) Feedback Score: 8 reviews	all depends on the space I think you could do it just fine with the turbo assembly off that'd work too, most ppl would just weld that top portion of the fitting on there so, so you wouldnt have to worry about metal shavings __________________ 後輪駆動車１番 1989 Built SR GT2871R -363whp 1998 S14 W/RB25- 250ish (For Now) 1986 SR86 - 200ish 1990 R32 GTR - 320hp Don't Buy Engines from JDM-Online http://zilvia.net/f/businesses/207457-jdm-online.html Don't Buy XS-Power or SSAC Shit

04-04-2011, 08:11 PM	#7
MudRacer Zilvia Addict Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: SoCali-IE Posts: 645 Trader Rating: (6) Feedback Score: 6 reviews	ah the welding. I cant take the car to a shop I just brought it home. Dont have weld tools or experience. I do have a GReddy oil filter relocation kit. Should I buy a steel braided line as a temporary fix to drive the car around? Is that a good enough pressure to go to the turbo? is an oil restrictor needed there? edit: I have a greddy oversize oil pan. Should I just take the secondary hole from there? is that also an option. I just need the car up and running __________________

04-04-2011, 08:23 PM	#8
Sileighty_85 Post Whore! Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Misawa, Japan Posts: 6,815 Trader Rating: (8) Feedback Score: 8 reviews	well i would either do the helicoil or that Nico fix (id probably do the Nico fix) Tha banjo bolt is the restricor (so yes you will need one) the oil pan will not feed oil to the turbo needs be be from th block __________________ 後輪駆動車１番 1989 Built SR GT2871R -363whp 1998 S14 W/RB25- 250ish (For Now) 1986 SR86 - 200ish 1990 R32 GTR - 320hp Don't Buy Engines from JDM-Online http://zilvia.net/f/businesses/207457-jdm-online.html Don't Buy XS-Power or SSAC Shit

04-05-2011, 06:41 PM	#9
fukusdm01 Leaky Injector Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Las Vegas Age: 34 Posts: 100 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Yo this happened to me last month. Stripped the same hole for the oil feed. Just find a small enough drill and put a lil bit of grease on the bit to catch the metal shavings. And for the Helicoil kit, just go on Amazon and look for one.. thats where i got mine. After you buy that kit, you just need to buy a 31/64 drill bit.. got mine from Sears. Good luck.. its pretty easy if u go slow and take your time.

04-13-2011, 08:36 AM	#10
MudRacer Zilvia Addict Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: SoCali-IE Posts: 645 Trader Rating: (6) Feedback Score: 6 reviews	i couldn't get a drill to fit in there while the engine was in. Is there a way i can route the oil from the oil filter temporarily so I can take the car to a shop? __________________

04-13-2011, 08:16 PM	#11
Redmonkey Leaky Injector Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Minnesota Posts: 64 Trader Rating: (6) Feedback Score: 6 reviews	Buy an oil sandwich plate. It should have a couple places on it to run your return line and oil pressure sensor. Just block off the stripped one.

04-16-2011, 03:21 AM	#12
zurud Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: evansville, in Posts: 391 Trader Rating: (4) Feedback Score: 4 reviews	Get a close quarter drill. You can get helicoil from any autoparts store. If you want it welded, call welding shop around you. Somebody must have mobile welder. The AN fitting is thick enough to be welded using spool gun.

04-16-2011, 12:46 PM	#13
JDMRIDDAZ Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: ｆォリダ Age: 48 Posts: 440 Trader Rating: (3) Feedback Score: 3 reviews	remove oil pressure sender cause it worthless any way buy the ka t25 oil line... it goes from sender 1/8npt to oil inlet on turbo and leave block off on there... i kno the sr block is 1/8bspt but it fits if u screw it in nicely i have an autometer pressure sender screw to my sr for 3 yrs no probs u would need proper tools to do helicoil and the line s would stay oem... this is why ss lines r the best for sr.. so u dont srtip that hole and never let a general mechanic work on a masterpiece like the sr20det __________________ シチサｎ w/ka20det:in progress シチサｎw/sr20det:stolen

04-17-2011, 01:35 PM	#17
fukusdm01 Leaky Injector Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Las Vegas Age: 34 Posts: 100 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Man when I did this, i didnt have any problems. Just removed the intake and hotpipe and had enough room to fit a small drill inside. Was a breeze after that. Good luck!

05-27-2011, 12:09 PM	#18
MudRacer Zilvia Addict Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: SoCali-IE Posts: 645 Trader Rating: (6) Feedback Score: 6 reviews	A month or more has passed? Damn my car has been parked forever. I figured the best course of action would be to put Time-Sert in which is supposed to be better than Helicoil. I ended up pulling out the engine, cleaning the hell out of it and the engine bay. Replaced some of the gaskets while I was at it. When the engine was out it was MUCH easier to just Drill and Tap a new Time-Sert thread on there. I'm pretty sure I did it right. I'll find out monday when I start the car. I also tried to find turbo feed lines that would and work for my issue, but it didnt make sense to spend the amount of money only to avoid the problem. Also it was taking far too long to get them in my hand after shipping etc. I just put the engine back in last weekend. Got everything screwed in. This allowed me to finally bolt up the A/C on the SR as well. __________________