WTF is on my brembos!

[nissantuner22]

So I get outta my car today at school, walk around the car. for some reason i looked at my rear tire. a few days ago my rotor was still perfectly shiny metal, and now......theres this strange ring going around the rotor. from the center hub, about 3/4 of the way to the edge of the rotor, theres this mustard colored crap all over it, in a perfect circle. WTF is that? I checked all my other rotors, and they have some splotches of that crap, but nothing as severe as the passanger rear...wtf?

[speeddreamz]

mb just rust, drive it im pretty damn sure it'll come off

[WilloW]

Originally Posted by speeddreamz

mb just rust, drive it im pretty damn sure it'll come off

^^^I'm pretty sure its rust too, go for a drive and see if it still there.

[BadMoJo]

Its either mustard or rust. Rotors always rust man, no biggie..... But, if its mustard then you need to take action quick!! Go get some mayo and make a rotor SAMICH'!!

[nismo2491]

mmmmmm rotor sandwich
*Drooling*
KEvin

[pr240sx]

BREMBO rotor sandwich!!

[nissantuner22]

drove it for 20 miles stop and go last night, and its still on there. its like a perfect circle 3/4 covering my rotor. WTF! I zapped it with brake cleaner, to no avail. BTW, the rotors are less than a week old!

[nightwalker]

don't cry you pansy, is it a ring around the edge of the rotor? if it is, then it's normal. Don't worry about it. As long as it's not on the rotor surface area where it meets the pads.

[nissantuner22]

..it is on the rotor surface where it meets the pad. covering 3/4 of it in a perfect circle.

[FRpilot]

post some pictures. it'll be clearer and easier for us to determine what it is.

[Kookaburraz]

Did you put new pads on?

[nissantuner22]

yah i got new hawk pads.

[96twofourty]

did you seat them right?

[nissantuner22]

i did exactly what the instructions said to do, followed the procedure exactly. after i broke them in, i've been easy on the brakes, just normal driving.

[Mikes14240sx]

I would do a few hard stops then check them out. The rear pistons may be sticking alittle.

[andrave]

I think you should go do burn outs and E brake turns for an hour or so.

[slideways240]

sounds like someone replaced your new hawk pads with a ham sammich.investigate and consume.





or maybe you just wore the plating off of your BRAND NEW rotors and the real material is showing through

[nissantuner22]

lol definitly not that. however the ham sandwich theory may hold water.

but seriously, anyone have any real ideas?

[andrave]

burnouts will make you feel better, anyway...

[Blues13]

til u get caught by the popo and then u feel even worse.

[nissantuner22]

afte even more driving, there still there. its only on the back though. like the center hub on the fronts are kinda tarnished by this mystery crap too, but its not on the shiny rotor area.

[GTGuy06]

You might want to call Brembo and ask them about it. That should be the first thing you do, and see what they say about the problem. Its better to go to the manufactor instead of listenin to bumbling baboons. (No Offense everybody)

[WilloW]

Originally Posted by GTGuy06

Its better to go to the manufactor instead of listenin to bumbling baboons. (No Offense everybody)

Hahah, non taken.

[Dream240]

Originally Posted by nissantuner22

afte even more driving, there still there. its only on the back though. like the center hub on the fronts are kinda tarnished by this mystery crap too, but its not on the shiny rotor area.

Dude that stuff is RUST!!!

Let's break the rotor down a bit.

The smaller portion of the rotors that has holes in it for your bolts to go through is the rotor's "head"
The larger portion of the rotor where the brake pad makes contact is the rotor's "face"
Also if you stand the rotor up like it would be on the car, and look straight down into it you'll see that there's a gap between the font "face" and the back "face"; that area is called "veins" for releasing trapped heat while driving (makes rotors more efficient).

Okay now that we got that out of the way:

the "head" will always rust and turn mustard looking on rotors, that's just life. Does absolutely nothing to affect the performance of your brakes.
Now it seems that you're saying the "face" of your rear rotor has rust covering 3/4 of the face portion, correct? Even after driving and braking as normal.

Here's a quick question that no one's asked you. Did you BLEED the brakes throughly? ALL 4 of them? It really sounds like that rear wheel is not even functioning due to the fact that there's rust on the face, If it was working then every time you hit the brakes the pads would clean the face of the rotor off and give you that "shiny" look.

So BLEED your brakes again, and make sure you keep fluid in the Resevior AT ALL TIMES! If you let it run out of fluid at all then you have to start all over! Go to Autozone or Kragen's and get a POWERBUILT one man bleeder kit. It has a nifty little container that has a magnet on the back which you just fasten to your rotor and put a pan underneath it to pick up the fluid as you bleed. BUT I would still have someone pump your pedal as you release the bleeder valve, much faster.

Whew! Hope this helps.

[andrave]

one man bleeders and speed bleeders never seem to work right. Just buy a new jug of some decent brake fluid and go at it with a friend and a wrench.
Whats the point of springing for brembo's when you don't even bleed the shit right?

anyway I think thats what it sounds like too.

[Dream240]

Originally Posted by andrave

one man bleeders and speed bleeders never seem to work right. Just buy a new jug of some decent brake fluid and go at it with a friend and a wrench.
Whats the point of springing for brembo's when you don't even bleed the shit right?

anyway I think thats what it sounds like too.

Well I agree about the one man bleeders. The only why I suggested that kit was because it has the magnet to hold the drain line straight down, gives you a free hand and keeps things waaaay cleaner!!

Another tip for the poster, give the master cylinder a quick bleed off the bleeder valve after you do all 4 lines. The bleeder valve is located on the side facing the engine. You can't miss it, looks just like the wheel bleeders.

[nissantuner22]

ugh i thought i bled them really good, nice consistent jet when i pushed the brake down and all. maybe i should tapped the calipers lightly to get some bubbles out? doh. Back in an hour, im gonna bleed them again.

[nissantuner22]

ok so i bled them again. i pumped each wheel 3 times. the first time for SOME REASON a lot of air came out of the suspecting caliper. (thanks to my friend who helped me the first time, assclown) all the rest bleed like usual. So i take it on a little stop and go romp and came back. I touched the area that was rusted to see if it was making contact with the pad now, and i burnt myself. So i guess it will now correct itself due to the new found pad contact.

[Dream240]

Originally Posted by nissantuner22

ok so i bled them again. i pumped each wheel 3 times. the first time for SOME REASON a lot of air came out of the suspecting caliper. (thanks to my friend who helped me the first time, assclown) all the rest bleed like usual. So i take it on a little stop and go romp and came back. I touched the area that was rusted to see if it was making contact with the pad now, and i burnt myself. So i guess it will now correct itself due to the new found pad contact.

You learned the hard way about brake surfaces!!

Yeah you don't want to touch em like that.

Is the rust gone? If it is then you know you fixed it. If it's still there and it looks like it hasn't been touched, then go on some 60-0 brake stops. About 3 should do it. Also I'm surprised you're pedal didn't have any mush to it. Or maybe it did and you just forgot to mention that.

Well anyways glad to see it worked.

[nissantuner22]

no mush at all thats the wierd part. after more driving we'll see if all the rusts gone, but i suspect it should be.