How do I get rid of negative camber?

[TurboGoKart]

1990 S13 LS1 swapped. Lowered some, but most definitely not slammed. I have 275/40/17 Mickey Thompson's on the rear, and I need a new pair because these are worn down now, but mostly on the inside. I'm currently running ~-1.3* of camber. I have adjustable rear upper control arms, but I don't know how far out I can unscrew them to correct the negative camber. I'm getting a little nervous taking it out that much.

Would adjustable rear lower control arms help to correct the negative camber? I'm trying to take full advantage of the width of the tire (I need it with the LS1), and need to fix the negative camber issue. Any other ideas? Thanks guys!

[Dany]

i think one of the rods will help not sure which one though the traction arm tension or toe arm but yea i wanna know too lol

[TurboGoKart]

The only non-adjustable rear piece I don't have is the rear lower control arm. All the others are adjustable, and the car was aligned by a tech who will set it to whatever spec I want. We were both a little leary about unscrewing the RUCA's out too far, but I need to get rid of about a full degree of negative camber.

[c.boots]

it sounds like its the rear toe settings are out of line. im running -2.1 in the rear and im not having any issues with wear. when i changed all my rear arms with adjustable ones my toe was really misaligned causing wear on the inside of the tire.

[TurboGoKart]

I know toe wears tires much worse than camber, but you can visually see the negative camber. Looking at the tire tracks after going thru a puddle, you can also tell that the full tire width is not being used.

[fliprayzin240sx]

You'd have to adjust both toe arm and RUCA to get your camber fixed. What brand arms do you have? I've never heard of RUCAs maxing out and popping out of threads, even knock off ones.

I used to do my own alignment with just measuring tape, digital level and then driving it to see if the car is crabbing.

[TurboGoKart]

I honestly can't remember the brand, but I do know they are knockoffs. How far out of the RUCA can I 'unthread' the adjustment rod? I should also note, my wheels are +12 offset in the rear. Sad panda. +12 and 275's makes it harder to sit them flat on the ground.

[fliprayzin240sx]

More than enough to give you positive camber. Since thats not what you're trying to do, it wont happen.

[TurboGoKart]

I'll check when I get off work, but I think it's already unthreaded like 1/8" inside the RUCA sleeve (end of the threaded part is less than flush with the threaded section in the RUCA). Maybe a pic will help if that description didn't make sense.

[Drifting Kalamari]

Get beefier RUCA's and be prepared to get toe and control rods too if you need to adjust camber soo much! (may already have toe/control rods I guess).

And if you are still worried, make sure you get name brand that will back up their work.

[fliprayzin240sx]

IIRC...you have 2 sets of threads. You basically have one reverse threaded and when you turn the middle, the inner threaded piece will push out or in opposite of the main piece into the RUCA. Kinda hard to explain...just gotta look at it to see what I'm talking about. It shouldnt just be threading out on one of them, you have to have both evenly out to get your positive camber in.

[Drifting Kalamari]

^^you sir are correct, I assume he already is doing so :P

[fliprayzin240sx]

Also, when you adjust your RUCA, make sure you loosen the toe arm too. Itll get to a point that your camber wont change since the toe arm will start binding.

[zneubauer]

adjustable RUCAs are made to fix or modify camber/fitment.

[Zero-Offset]

Originally Posted by zneubauer

adjustable RUCAs are made to fix or modify camber/fitment.

[TurboGoKart]

^^^Lolz.

Thanks fliprayzin240sx. I'll check to see if I was unthreading both. IIRC though, I was only doing the inner adjustment, which may very well be why it felt like I was unthreading it too much. Thanks! I'll check and let ya know.

[Jonnie Fraz]

Here is a pic of another members RUCA adjustment. Now when he went with the PBM knuckles he got some of that adjustment back. As seen here...



Adjusting the arms out so far made me leery as well. Most aftermarket arms are shorter than OEM, but can be adjusted out. I made custom arms for my friends drift car that start at OEM length and adjust out from there. Also I am working on a lower arm for his car.

[fliprayzin240sx]

Originally Posted by Jonnie Fraz

Here is a pic of another members RUCA adjustment. Now when he went with the PBM knuckles he got some of that adjustment back. As seen here...



Adjusting the arms out so far made me leery as well. Most aftermarket arms are shorter than OEM, but can be adjusted out. I made custom arms for my friends drift car that start at OEM length and adjust out from there. Also I am working on a lower arm for his car.

Those RUCA looks sketchy as fuck.

Check these Megan Racing ones...


Notice has there's 3 nuts at the end. The middle one is what adjust it. The RUCA is basically 3 pieces, the body, the adjustment and then the heim joint. When you spin the middle adjustment, it pulls out of the RUCA body, the heim joint piece threads out too. The whole section extends out evenly. The outter 2 nuts are the locking nuts to keep it from spinning.

[TheRealSy90]

That's how mine are, you turn the center piece and the outer pieces go in or out evenly. I can get positive camber with mine and my car is most likely a lot lower than yours. You will be fine.

[Jonnie Fraz]

Here are the ones I built.



Here is what happens if you throw a Lexas SC300 at them.



Also in this pic you can see how much shorter this NAMs RUCA is than the OEM.

[naw_speed]

not trying to ride the fanboy wagon but my PBM RUCA got alot to go. last time i did the alginment i had 1.3deg of camber in the rear and they still had plenty to go. definitely could have got 0deg.


hope the info and pics help

[Drifting Kalamari]

Like stated above, the inner part should thread out as well. The green subframe car looks like it has not well made RUCA's. Even my Ebay RUCA's had the second nut to bring the threaded part further out.