conversion tips/observations (S13 to Z32 5 lug/brake, VLSD, exhaust, etc) - Zilvia.net Forums | Nissan 240SX (Silvia) and Z (Fairlady) Car Forum

mbmbmb23 · 05-30-2004, 04:19 PM

Ok this weekend I finally got the second part of my project completed. Last week I did the front 5 lug swap (w/Z32 wheels and brakes) + suspension.... and this weekend I did the rear Z brakes + hub, N1 dual + cat, J30 VLSD, Z MC, rear suspension, swap.

Let me just go over a few points that may help someone else in the future with this. I'm sure most of what I'm including has been mentioned before...but I'm sharing this because someone will undoubtedly search this and hopefully this will answer many questions at once.

The J30 VLSD WILL fit the S13 (specifically the 1995 with 3 star flanges). It fit my car and I dont have ABS. It's a snug fit, but it works. The carrier bolts are too short, however if you hacksaw off the washer(s) that are pressed onto the bolts, you can get them to work (temporarily until the correct bolts are ordered) if you jack up the front of the diff and screw them in. They get 3-4 threads worth of tightening. (edit: ok now my rear end clunks.....I need the J30 carrier bolts and diff bushing insulators....very temporary solution for what I listed above)

The rear hubs, if rusty on the inside, will be IMPOSSIBLE to accept the axle splines. Take PB blaster and basically scrape out the spline grooved with a screwdriver and a wire brush.

Cutting out the fittings inside the S13 MC to use with the Z32 MC isn't as easy as it looks. Best thing to do is to cut as deep under the fitting as possible and then use a flat punch (or small hex screwdriver) to punch the fitting out from the back. When doing this in a bench vice, be sure to put a shop rag under the peice so the fitting doesnt get launched out and becomes lost in the garage

The N1 dual hangs low....especially with a lowered car. Buyer be warned. (but it sounds hot tho).

SS brake lines (Taka w/ AN fittings). Be sure to pre tighten the AN fittings to the lines before you install them. It makes it alot easier than trying to use 2 wrenches on the caliper and get the 90 degree elbow to line up just right so its not putting stress on the line.

Getting stubborn bolts loose. If the bolt tightens vertically (your wrench is going up when you turn it), you may be able to use a floor jack to help break the bolt loose. I did this a number of times and it works great. Basically you get the wrench on there, then jack up the end of the handle on the wrench until it breaks loose.

Finding a 36mm axle lug socket in the stores. The rear axles are held on by this huge socket which isn't always kept in the regular socket section at your auto parts store (Parts America, Pep Boys, etc). Ask the cashier where they are kept, I find mine near the RV merchandise.

Removing the exhaust (when you only have 2 jack stands). I used the stands on the left front and left rear of my car.....and it worked perfectly.

Thats all I can think of now......I'll edit more onto this thread as it comes to me.

-m

Flybert · 05-31-2004, 05:28 AM

Good shit man. I'll be doing five lug rear next weekend along with rear z-brakes and maybe the master cylinder. Not sure if I have that socket for the axle.

thx247 · 05-31-2004, 07:37 AM

Instead of using the fitting from the brake MC, use one of the 2 fittings in the clutch line loop.

Kid Zelda · 05-31-2004, 09:09 AM

dbdmbm22 - I did the same thing this weekend.
5 lug swap
Front and rear z32 calipers w/ e-brake
Z32 M/C

With the rear hubs, since they have been on for 10+ yrs, I also took some PB blaster and did some minor scraping... then looked over @ my STRONG HAND, picked up the hammer and wacked from the back side..onthe edge of the hubs, BAM.. BAM... BBAAAAAAAAAMMm .. 3rd wacks the charm (haha, sick) ..

Supra Hunter · 05-31-2004, 09:09 PM

Hey guys, sorry to be somewhat of a noob but i just finished doing the front z32 brake upgrade, i tried to do the rear but i am having problems running the ebrake cable from the caliper to the chassis line? i've searched and searched and nobody seems to cover deep for an install on the rear z32 on an S14... i heard i need the rear ebrake hardware or something like that?

mbmbmb23 · 05-31-2004, 11:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Supra Hunter

Hey guys, sorry to be somewhat of a noob but i just finished doing the front z32 brake upgrade, i tried to do the rear but i am having problems running the ebrake cable from the caliper to the chassis line? i've searched and searched and nobody seems to cover deep for an install on the rear z32 on an S14... i heard i need the rear ebrake hardware or something like that?

You need the rear ebrake dust shields that have the drum ebrakes built in. They plug into your spindles and have the brake lines attached. You'll need to splice the Z32 ebrake cables to the 240sx cables (metal shaft collars with set screws, wire clamps, etc..).

-m

BuudWeizErr · 06-01-2004, 01:34 PM

Fly, I got mine at AutoZone when I did my rear 5 lug. I think it was around 15 bucks. If you can't find one, you can borrow mine I guess.

05-30-2004, 04:19 PM	#1
mbmbmb23 Zilvia Contributor Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: Charlotte, NC. Posts: 1,776 Trader Rating: (1) Rides Gallery: mbmbmb23 Feedback Score: 1 reviews	conversion tips/observations (S13 to Z32 5 lug/brake, VLSD, exhaust, etc) Ok this weekend I finally got the second part of my project completed. Last week I did the front 5 lug swap (w/Z32 wheels and brakes) + suspension.... and this weekend I did the rear Z brakes + hub, N1 dual + cat, J30 VLSD, Z MC, rear suspension, swap. Let me just go over a few points that may help someone else in the future with this. I'm sure most of what I'm including has been mentioned before...but I'm sharing this because someone will undoubtedly search this and hopefully this will answer many questions at once. The J30 VLSD WILL fit the S13 (specifically the 1995 with 3 star flanges). It fit my car and I dont have ABS. It's a snug fit, but it works. The carrier bolts are too short, however if you hacksaw off the washer(s) that are pressed onto the bolts, you can get them to work (temporarily until the correct bolts are ordered) if you jack up the front of the diff and screw them in. They get 3-4 threads worth of tightening. (edit: ok now my rear end clunks.....I need the J30 carrier bolts and diff bushing insulators....very temporary solution for what I listed above) The rear hubs, if rusty on the inside, will be IMPOSSIBLE to accept the axle splines. Take PB blaster and basically scrape out the spline grooved with a screwdriver and a wire brush. Cutting out the fittings inside the S13 MC to use with the Z32 MC isn't as easy as it looks. Best thing to do is to cut as deep under the fitting as possible and then use a flat punch (or small hex screwdriver) to punch the fitting out from the back. When doing this in a bench vice, be sure to put a shop rag under the peice so the fitting doesnt get launched out and becomes lost in the garage The N1 dual hangs low....especially with a lowered car. Buyer be warned. (but it sounds hot tho). SS brake lines (Taka w/ AN fittings). Be sure to pre tighten the AN fittings to the lines before you install them. It makes it alot easier than trying to use 2 wrenches on the caliper and get the 90 degree elbow to line up just right so its not putting stress on the line. Getting stubborn bolts loose. If the bolt tightens vertically (your wrench is going up when you turn it), you may be able to use a floor jack to help break the bolt loose. I did this a number of times and it works great. Basically you get the wrench on there, then jack up the end of the handle on the wrench until it breaks loose. Finding a 36mm axle lug socket in the stores. The rear axles are held on by this huge socket which isn't always kept in the regular socket section at your auto parts store (Parts America, Pep Boys, etc). Ask the cashier where they are kept, I find mine near the RV merchandise. Removing the exhaust (when you only have 2 jack stands). I used the stands on the left front and left rear of my car.....and it worked perfectly. Thats all I can think of now......I'll edit more onto this thread as it comes to me. -m __________________ 400x200 Last edited by mbmbmb23; 05-30-2004 at 08:44 PM..

05-31-2004, 09:09 PM	#5
Supra Hunter Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: New York, New York Age: 41 Posts: 396 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	z32 rear brakes Hey guys, sorry to be somewhat of a noob but i just finished doing the front z32 brake upgrade, i tried to do the rear but i am having problems running the ebrake cable from the caliper to the chassis line? i've searched and searched and nobody seems to cover deep for an install on the rear z32 on an S14... i heard i need the rear ebrake hardware or something like that?

06-01-2004, 01:34 PM	#7
BuudWeizErr Zilvia Member Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: socal. Age: 42 Posts: 213 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Fly, I got mine at AutoZone when I did my rear 5 lug. I think it was around 15 bucks. If you can't find one, you can borrow mine I guess. __________________ 1989 Nissan 240SX, SR20DET sillbeer.COM : phase2motortrend : Garage Works

05-31-2004, 05:28 AM	#2
Flybert Post Whore! Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: none Posts: 3,862 Trader Rating: (7) Feedback Score: 7 reviews	Good shit man. I'll be doing five lug rear next weekend along with rear z-brakes and maybe the master cylinder. Not sure if I have that socket for the axle.

05-31-2004, 07:37 AM	#3
thx247 Zilvia FREAK! Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: bay area Posts: 1,455 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Instead of using the fitting from the brake MC, use one of the 2 fittings in the clutch line loop.

05-31-2004, 09:09 AM	#4
Kid Zelda BANNED Join Date: Oct 2001 Posts: 2,347 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	dbdmbm22 - I did the same thing this weekend. 5 lug swap Front and rear z32 calipers w/ e-brake Z32 M/C With the rear hubs, since they have been on for 10+ yrs, I also took some PB blaster and did some minor scraping... then looked over @ my STRONG HAND, picked up the hammer and wacked from the back side..onthe edge of the hubs, BAM.. BAM... BBAAAAAAAAAMMm .. 3rd wacks the charm (haha, sick) ..