Oil Change

[bigbadhr]

Noob question, but the time has come for me to do a oil change on my sr.. i got a blacktop. i was wondering what the best oil that i could use would be.. i know i should use synthetic but what brand and how many pints? also where i could get a oil filter from... ive heard about motor flush it cleans out your head and other internal parts from gunk before you do an oil change..

[Jez]

Originally Posted by bigbadhr

Noob question, but the time has come for me to do a oil change on my sr.. i got a blacktop. i was wondering what the best oil that i could use would be.. i know i should use synthetic but what brand and how many pints? also where i could get a oil filter from... ive heard about motor flush it cleans out your head and other internal parts from gunk before you do an oil change..

3.7 quarts of oil.

I have 2 OEM filters, $20 shipped, PM me

Hope you have asbestos clothing on!

[dluevanos01]

Originally Posted by bigbadhr

Noob question, but the time has come for me to do a oil change on my sr.. i got a blacktop. i was wondering what the best oil that i could use would be.. i know i should use synthetic but what brand and how many pints? also where i could get a oil filter from... ive heard about motor flush it cleans out your head and other internal parts from gunk before you do an oil change..

I use mobil 1 10w30 full synthetic with a Sentra SE-R oil filter. I also read about motor flush and apparently some of the gunk that it takes off gets stuck in vital lubrication points and can be harmful to the engine, so I didn't try it.

[dawagarage]

search, bro. you arent the first one with a sr/blacktop wondering what kind of oil/filter to use

[Jersthecool]

I use amsoil in everything. 10W30 and Z32 filter for engine, atf for power steering, 75-90 GL-4 for the tranny and either 75-90 or 80-90 for the rear diff can't remember.

[801nismo104]

ive been using mobil 1 synthetic 10W30 and K&N oil filter for 3 years. took my motor apart last week and its super clean

[jamg]

rotella synthetic T6. 5w-40

purelator pure one.

[KiLLeR2001]

I've been using Castrol Syntec 10w-30 for 5 years now with K&N oil filter. Engine has about 40,000 miles on it now, still running strong. I might switch to Rotella T6 5w-40, as I have been hearing good things about it lately.

[Tom N]

I know these guys cater mostly to Mitsubishi and Subaru but a turbo wear is turbo wear and most of this info can easily be applied to turbo nissans. It's a good read as they did a lot if testing on this. Quick answer is use a oil that's high in zinc and phosphorus. Stay away from mobile one.
http://store.forcedperformance.net/m...otor%20Oil.pdf

I personally like Amsoil dominator.

[dawagarage]

Originally Posted by Tom N

I know these guys cater mostly to Mitsubishi and Subaru but a turbo wear is turbo wear and most of this info can easily be applied to turbo nissans. It's a good read as they did a lot if testing on this. Quick answer is use a oil that's high in zinc and phosphorus. Stay away from mobile one.
http://store.forcedperformance.net/m...otor%20Oil.pdf

I personally like Amsoil dominator.

i was going to state that oil brand is highly debatable but that bobistheoilguy.com has a lot of good to say about mobil 1.

that link you posted was an interesting read.
however, a few items to point out
1, they suggest RACE OIL for engines making 100+ whp per cylinder (not the case here.)
2, FL 4 is now obsolete. mobil 1 is GF 5, now.
http://www.api.org/certifications/en...010_120210.pdf
10W-30 Synthetic Oil | Mobil 1™ 10W-30

but i agree that more zinc is better protection. im going to look further into this myself

[imnatelol]

Originally Posted by hotboiblaze

i was going to state that oil brand is highly debatable but that bobistheoilguy.com has a lot of good to say about mobil 1.

that link you posted was an interesting read.
however, a few items to point out
1, they suggest RACE OIL for engines making 100+ whp per cylinder (not the case here.)
2, GL 4 is now obsolete. mobil 1 is GL 5, now.
http://www.api.org/certifications/en...010_120210.pdf
10W-30 Synthetic Oil | Mobil 1™ 10W-30

but i agree that more zinc is better protection. im going to look further into this myself

GL-4 is what should be used in the manual trans. GL5 is meant for diggs and transfer cases. The friction modifiers in GL5 are too harsh and do more harm than good to brass syncros.

[bigbadhr]

Pretty interesting links, ima lookin into the T6 and Mobil 1 oil to see whats better the only problem now this gonna be finding a place to dump the oil hah. as for the tranny and diff fluids thanks on the numbers..

[dawagarage]

Originally Posted by imnatelol

GL-4 is what should be used in the manual trans. GL5 is meant for diggs and transfer cases. The friction modifiers in GL5 are too harsh and do more harm than good to brass syncros.

absolutely right. that was a typo. i meant GF 4 and GF 5.
i still had GL 4/5 on my mind from changing out my tranny fluid (gl 4, available at napa, by sta lube,) and diff (gl 5, available everywhere) on my datsun

good catch, im gonna go back and edit it to prevent any confusion

[S14DB]

Originally Posted by jamg

rotella synthetic T6. 5w-40

purelator pure one.

I picked this up because it was on sale over the usual Mobile 1. I was impressed with the gunk it pulls out. I think I will use it from now on.

I don't know of how Gear oil got brought up but I use Amsoil GL-4 for my trans and am happy with it.

[jamg]

Amsoil synthetic GL-4 is the BEST.

[jerryscherry]

ROTELLA 15w 40, get it at walmart , a lot of people recommended me to use Rotella, even subby and evo guys use it for their turbo charged vehicles

[MamangSorbetero]

Using Redline GL-4 in the transmission and Redline GL-5 in the diff.

Running Redline 10w-40 synthetic in the engine with a Purolator Synth oil filter. I think this tired motor can't handle synthetic so I might just switch to Pennzoil conventional. If not, a Castrol Syntec 5w-50 with a Bosch 3422 filter.

[shift_down]

you need to use a 0w oil or a 5w oil. The first number in the sequenxe of XwXX is the startup viscosity. It represents how thick the oil will be upon startup. The lower the number, the better. The second number in the sequence of XwXX is the viscosity at operating tempearture. A 30 weight oil will be a viscosity of 10cs at operating temps, this is an ideal viscosity. My suggestion is use a 0w30 synthetic oil.

If you dont go synthetic, then use a 5w30 mineral oil. the 5 means your startup viscosity will be better than a higher number, but will have enough additives to last you until your next oil change (3k-5k miles).

People that tell you to use a 10wXX oil do not know what they are talking about, they are just going off of hear-say. You need the first number to be as low as possible, preferably a 0w.

[shift_down]

Originally Posted by jamg

rotella synthetic T6. 5w-40

purelator pure one.

This guy knows wassup. Very good choice of oil.

[dawagarage]

Originally Posted by shift_down

you need to use a 0w oil or a 5w oil. The first number in the sequenxe of XwXX is the startup viscosity. It represents how thick the oil will be upon startup. The lower the number, the better. The second number in the sequence of XwXX is the viscosity at operating tempearture. A 30 weight oil will be a viscosity of 10cs at operating temps, this is an ideal viscosity. My suggestion is use a 0w30 synthetic oil.

If you dont go synthetic, then use a 5w30 mineral oil. the 5 means your startup viscosity will be better than a higher number, but will have enough additives to last you until your next oil change (3k-5k miles).

People that tell you to use a 10wXX oil do not know what they are talking about, they are just going off of hear-say. You need the first number to be as low as possible, preferably a 0w.

dumb, no.
"the people" you mean the manufacturer???
i.e.-

thats from my 73 datsun 620 fsm but every fsm has that chart.
lower viscousity isnt always better, it depends on the climate zone you are in.

[shift_down]

Why are you saying dumb? Instead of making a good argument, you chose to insult people? Not nice...

Do some research and you will get a better idea. Read this:

Motor Oil 101 - Bob is the Oil Guy

[shift_down]

Originally Posted by hotboiblaze

lower viscousity isnt always better, it depends on the climate zone you are in.

This is true for the SECOND number in the XwXX sequence, not the first number.
If you are in a higher climate condition, or your motor puts out higher temps, i.e. a track car, then you can use a 5w40 or something like that.

[dawagarage]

"People that tell you to use a 10wXX oil do not know what they are talking about, they are just going off of hear-say."

is why i was said dumb. i wasnt insulting you, i was insulting your statement.

i think you might be confused. the second number is once the engine gets to operating temperature. this temperature is reached by the engine running itself and getting up to temperature and is not very much affected by outside climates, at least not in normal 'around town' driving conditions and if your cooling system is matched up for the climate you are in.

as for the first number
the colder it is, the more viscous the oil will be at start up. the more viscous, the less effective the pump can pump it, and you get less lubrication.

you pointed me to a reference that i already sited earlier in the thread, see post #10 "i was going to state that oil brand is highly debatable but that bobistheoilguy.com has a lot of good to say about mobil 1."

here are a few quotes from the link you provided:

"Never-the-less I use plain Pennzoil multi-grade mineral based 5W-20 in my Ford Expedition. This oil is thin enough at startup to have many of the attributes I just mentioned."

"I drained the Murcielago’s (OEM) 5W-40 Agip and replaced it with 0W-30 Mobil 1. The engine became much quieter. A valve tappet noise disappeared. I then used the 5W-20 Red Line in the Lamborghini. Used oil analysis showed that this oil worked well for my non racetrack application. The same oil went into my Maybach 57."

bob does not soully use 0 starting weight on each and everyone of his vehicles, so saying "You need the first number to be as low as possible, preferably a 0w." is somewhat misleading.

i guess i should admonish that most of what you said was true/helpful, and i cant argue much with you if one of our info resources is the same. it was just that one statement that set me off and made me think that you might not know what youre talking about.

if one goes off the information of their fsm, they should be safe. sure there are improvements and benefits of deferring from the fsm but one can at least always default to the fsm.

bob mentioned something about a lot of manufacturers are starting to recommend 0 starting weight, this is something i wasnt aware of as my vehicles are: '73, '90', '96, and '97. the "youngest" thing i had was an 05 gsxr 750 and it's fsm didnt mention 0 at the time of publication.

[shift_down]

" bob does not soully use 0 starting weight on each and everyone of his vehicles, so saying "You need the first number to be as low as possible, preferably a 0w." is somewhat misleading. "


Yes you are right about it being misleading. What I was trying to say is, keep it as low as you can to be the most effective. <----that's probably misleading as well.

Bob also says that he goes lower than factory recommended oils, and that's why I don't really go off of fsm choices. I do however go off of FSM psi recommendations

[surfpac]

Castrol Syntec 0-W30 .. Made in Germany

It must say "made in Germany" on the back

https://www.google.com/search?q=cast...ml%3B640%3B480

I can only find these at Autozone

[shift_down]

yes! This! ^^^

[dawagarage]

oh i forgot to mention, 0 starting weight isnt always readily and easily available as the higher starting weights. so if youre in a pinch, you can go 5 or 10 starting weight and not have to worry

[shift_down]

Ya I actually looked for a 0w30 today and couldn't find it.

[randmonds4]

But I am working on it.

[Allwayssideways]

Originally Posted by jamg

rotella synthetic T6. 5w-40

purelator pure one.

+1 I use rotella in all my cars