ka24de stainless turbo manifold on ebay?

[nd240sx3]

i got a few questions before i go biddin it says that it fits 94-98 240sx s14 what about 91-94 s13 arent they the same motor woulnt the bolt pattern be the same and it should work right? well anyway heres the link check it out let me know what u think? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tem=7914056827

[orion::S14]

At some point it will probably crack, as most SS manifolds do...

But as for fitment: All DOHC heads are the same, and the clearance is basically the same for S13 and S14 5-speed, non-ABS cars.

It really should read '91-98...

- Brian

[nd240sx3]

what u mean they crack looks good quality?

[s15dude]

Any pooorly built manifold will crack, especially if the material is too thin, stainless steel is a more superior metal than mild steel or cast iron, so if properly built and thick enough, it should outlast other manifolds

[orion::S14]

But A LOT of the SR stainless manifolds from "SS Autochrome" have cracked within a few months...

Just a heads up...search here or Freshalloy, you'll find a number of posts detailing people issues with them.

SS is a bad material for manifolds, unless it's "FUll Race" thickness and quality, which these are NOT.

- Brian

[zero.counter]

Downpipes with flex-sections help alot...

[iknowyoulike]

CRACK? I hope that the Ka bottom mount won't crack. I thought SS autocrome has lifetime warranty from cracking? At least it said that from their website. Now i'm worried about my bottom mount i bought from them. I haven't got it yet but hopefully it is warrentied also.

[g81981]

What about turbo fitment? Does it have the same Revhard turbo location in which you would have to purchase an oncenter turbo to clear the brake master cylinder?

[iknowyoulike]

As far as the fitment for the KA turbo top mount it cleared cylinder no prob. According to them it was built off of the revhard. <---not sure of this though so don't flame me on it.

[s15dude]

well if ss autochrome manifolds crack, then they might build poor manifolds, it could be stronger with thicker pipe, but that increase costs alot, not only the material costs, but the material is harder to work with, I work with stainless steel alot and its tough to even drill if you dont know what you are doing. it is a superior material compared to cast iron or mild steel, but may not be cost effective for everything. they may also be using a poor grade of stainless, but it could also be just a bad design of the manifold itself, they might have not tolerenced it correctly for the expansion and contraction when it heats up and cools down. Has anyone on this forum actually had it crack? if so if they had pics to where it cracked that would be helpful, by looking at the pictures, the flange that mounts on the motor head, looks to be one solid piece, if it were four pieces that might help, I remember reading that the old greddy kit for the miata had this problem. if you cut a slit between each cylinder on the flange, it might keep it from cracking by allowing the metal to expand and contract better when it heats and cools, sorry for the long post, just trying to help out

[wootwoot]

i can almost promise you that it will crack. yes, it does have a lifetime warranty, that isnt as good as you'd hope though. chances are you take the manifold off your car, mail it to them, they weld it where it cracked and mail it back to you. so that gives you almost 2 weeks of downtime, assuming you use ground shipping. someone who is to cheap to buy a proper manifold wouldnt over night that bia ; )

[meme]

here is mine;




here is it next to an sr20 stock replacement manifold:


the turbo flange is moved back about 1/2. i need to test fit this sucker. i will also need to drill out the bolt holes on the head flange.

[s15dude]

from the looks of those the pics the ka manifold actually looks decent, does anyone kno anyone that has cracked that manifold and have pics to back it up? look at how nice the welding is on that, also, does anyone kno of the tubing thickness?

[orion::S14]

[zero.counter]

WOW! Did rust play any part in that?

[timmybgood]

i have a JGS tools manifold if someone would like to take it off my hands, brand new, skip the 3 week wait period. t3 flange. email me

[Bradman123]

my friend bought a turbo from ssautochrome off ebay and the thing was f*cked up pretty bad, the shaft appeared to be bent and the wheel scraped the compressor housing. friggin thing didnt even make boost, it was messed up. he followed their recommended break in procedure for installation to a T and it was obviously screwed from the start. the auction was from xs power but the box said ss autochrome all over it and the shipping return address was from them.

[orion::S14]

Originally Posted by zero.counter

WOW! Did rust play any part in that?

Stainless typically does not rust.

That's just discoloration from the heat I'd guess...

- Brian

[BillKlineVT]

meme... is that the new SS-Auto KA bottom mount t25 manifold? If so, how did you get yours already? Those flanges appear to be unfinished... unlike SS-Auto's other products. I was informed that the manifolds were shipping either yesterday or today, but I have not gotten any word yet confirming that.

-Bill

[NISMO_drift]

Originally Posted by Bradman123

my friend bought a turbo from ssautochrome off ebay and the thing was f*cked up pretty bad, the shaft appeared to be bent and the wheel scraped the compressor housing. friggin thing didnt even make boost, it was messed up. he followed their recommended break in procedure for installation to a T and it was obviously screwed from the start. the auction was from xs power but the box said ss autochrome all over it and the shipping return address was from them.

Mine did the same thing. Bought their "t25/28 hybrid." I sent it back and they gave me my money back. Guess they had a bad batch of turbos, b/c I haven't seen them trying to sell any lately...

I still have the sr manifold and elbow though. They're holdin up fine, installed back in Feb. My manifold looks a little different than the one that's all broke. They've revised their design I believe. There's a brace from turbo flange to where it bolts to the engine. And they fired the guy that was making the shitty manifolds. So I dunno, maybe any new ones aren't that bad...

here's the best pic i could find of the manifold...

[meme]

Originally Posted by BillKlineVT

meme... is that the new SS-Auto KA bottom mount t25 manifold? If so, how did you get yours already? Those flanges appear to be unfinished... unlike SS-Auto's other products. I was informed that the manifolds were shipping either yesterday or today, but I have not gotten any word yet confirming that.

-Bill

actually it was not made by them. this is the test model. the next one, the runners will be differnt. it is just high temp paint. it was a rush job. i will also be getting one with a wastegate welded on.

[Bradman123]

hey nismo drift, do you think you could give me a phone number for ss autochrome or xs-power or whatever it is they go by, cuz i told my friend that you had the same experience and he said he cant even get them to reply to his emails and he doesnt have a phone number. only a fax number i think.

[meme]

i had the SS manifold before too. after installing new studs(had to buy seperately) the turbo will not fit. the flange was warped.

[Kreator]

read honda-tech.com they have alot of shit to say about them. To prevent cracking, you need to brace it (which kinda makes sense if you think at how much shit is hanging on it).

As for the turbos, this is also what people at honda-tech bitched about, somebody observed, that the way those turbos come, if you top mount them, the oil supply line is at the bottom which is not a good thing. not really relevant in your guys' cases, but other than that, people didnt complain much. Rumors are, they use a garret compressor and their own housings. and btw, there is a crapload of them on ebay right now.

[TNathe]

I just bought installed a KA SS Autochrome turbo mani and gave it to my cousin who is a welder by profession to cut the flange between the runners with a plasma cutter. He talked to a lot of people and they all agreed that it was not necessary to do that since the flange is like 1/2" SS and if the flange gets hot enough to warp then it will have melted your aluminum head a long time ago.

Anyone have any comments to this???

For $350 you can not beat their manifold. Put flex pipe like said above between exhuast pipe and turbo to limit the torquing. Hell, you could pay to have it welded even if it does crack 10 times or better for the money you saved.

[orion::S14]

The reason to cut between the flange is not to prevent warping, but to allow expansion so it doesn't crack (as fast...hehe).

You should also enlarge the outer bolt holes so the flange can move a little on the studs...

They are decent manifolds, for performance and price...but will be a pain when you have to pull it to get it welded back together.

- Brian

[TNathe]

That's what I mean, expanding = warping ??? The heat required to expand the SS would be a whole hell of a lot that your cylinder head would already have expanded to the point where your fuxor3d

[s15dude]

Originally Posted by TNathe

That's what I mean, expanding = warping ??? The heat required to expand the SS would be a whole hell of a lot that your cylinder head would already have expanded to the point where your fuxor3d

Exactly, SS has much better heat properties than cast iron or mild steel, so if made correctly , than is should be superior, i would cut a notch between cylinders anyways just to be safe, all the welds look really good to me, you could prolly cut it with any decent saw, but go slow otherwise you will wear out the blade. 1/2" SS will take awhile to cut tho, so I'd recomend a jig saw to those who dont have plasma cutter access, you could use a hacksaw, might take a hour, good exercise tho!

[orion::S14]

Pretty much all metals expand when they heat up. Can't argue with physics...

But they expand at different rates...so your Aluminum head expands at a different rate than your shiny new SS manifold...and if it want's to expand, but is held back by the mounting studs...it'll crack.

And how hot does SS need to get to warp? Maybe 1000 F? 1500 F??

Well, under boost, your exhuast gas temps will be anywhere from 1200-1500F AT the head...and it doesn't melt or crack.

Trust me, this is tried and true'd...exhaust manifolds get really hot and expand. Big time. And a lot of SS ones crack due to that expansion...maybe not the head flange, but the runners.

- Brian

[240Driver39]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...category=33742
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...category=33632

kinda sucks cause thats cheaper then the gb price on the site...but oh well..