GT2871 USERS. SR motor

[BlackZenkiS14]

Originally Posted by ultimateirving

Oh ok. So when you ordered the tune you said I have s3 cams waiting to go in? And had the tune designed around it ?

Nope. I've had the tune for over a year now. I spoke with Ben Pila at Jim Wolf Technology on Friday of last week and he confirmed that the JWT cams I installed are good to go on the tune I have, and no adjustments were needed.

[Tom N]

Originally Posted by BlackZenkiS14

Nope. I've had the tune for over a year now. I spoke with Ben Pila at Jim Wolf Technology on Friday of last week and he confirmed that the JWT cams I installed are good to go on the tune I have, and no adjustments were needed.

I take it you don't have a S14/15 engine with VTC?
I'm sure the tune is maf based but I would still think you would benefit from tuning for the new cams. I have no experience with tuning a SR motor yet but in other engines I have always seen a increase in hp after dialing in the motor on the new cams. Not that you need to but I'm sure you will get more power out of them if you did.

[BlackZenkiS14]

Yea, exactly. S13 Blacktop with MAF based JWT tune.

Just did a few pulls, AFR is 11.7 all day at WOT.

I dont actually think there is any way for JWT to modify my current tune to be more appropriate for these cams.

[ultimateirving]

Originally Posted by Tom N

I take it you don't have a S14/15 engine with VTC?
I'm sure the tune is maf based but I would still think you would benefit from tuning for the new cams. I have no experience with tuning a SR motor yet but in other engines I have always seen a increase in hp after dialing in the motor on the new cams. Not that you need to but I'm sure you will get more power out of them if you did.

Thast what i was getting at.

But if your happy with they way its pulling dont change it.
11.7 is a fine AFR, i just think with a retune the cams might be able to help with spool and powerband

[codyace]

S3 cam gears work best installed with OEM setup. I played around with that, and found no 'major' difference/stock was the best compromise.

A tune is NOT needed either with his setup, it will work just fine. Don't get me wrong it could be used to extract some extra power, but nothing world changing nor worth the cost.

How do I know? My car doesn't have a 'cam tune' and works great

[BlackZenkiS14]

I gotta admit though, I cant tell if its faster or not lol I mean, its 90 degrees today, and last time I drove the car it was 60 degrees. The power feels much more linear, and less snappy. Guess I wont know til I hit the drag strip.

Now, just cooling and oiling mods next!

[tabasco122]

I miss my car so much. i really wish i could have tested the setup before i parted it out.

[SR20HAYES]

Ok so I'm installing the turbo and it seems like no matter how I run my lines the coolant return is in the way for an intake. I don't have an intake yet, but looks to be no room to route it with the line. If anyone could post up a pic of how they routed their turbo lines that would be great. I have an S14 sr20 with the 3" inlet housing 2871r. I'm using the circuit sports lines as well.

Here is a pic of me mocking things up. I saw a pic online of someone else's setup and their coolant return line was much longer which seemed to give the intake a bit more room, but my circuit sports line is not nearly as long. I'm sure there is an easy way to solve this. This is my first time doing a turbo install and I'm a bit lost. So please let me know if I'm routing the lines wrong or what you think im doing wrong.



Oh and the coolant feed line looks to be in the way in the pic, but its just above where my intake(or I should say my coupler) would route giving me just enough clearance.

[EsChassisLove]

Mine always hit my inlet pipe on my 2" inlet.

I would just wrap it and let it rub your coupler. Won't do any harm as long as its wrapped good.

[SR20HAYES]

Originally Posted by EsChassisLove

Mine always hit my inlet pipe on my 2" inlet.

I would just wrap it and let it rub your coupler. Won't do any harm as long as its wrapped good.

Perhaps, but the extra 1" may cause it to rub a little much..if no other solutions seem evident then I may try that.

Would be nice if i had a 3" elbow to mock up, but no local shops have one other then the really long ones which I would have to cut to fit, but for the $60 they are charging I'd rather wait and order the right elbow.


:EDIT: Ok, after talking to a few more people threw FB it appears you were right. wrapping it and letting it rest on the intake is the best solution. Thanks for the help.

[ultimateirving]

Originally Posted by SR20HAYES

Perhaps, but the extra 1" may cause it to rub a little much..if no other solutions seem evident then I may try that.

Would be nice if i had a 3" elbow to mock up, but no local shops have one other then the really long ones which I would have to cut to fit, but for the $60 they are charging I'd rather wait and order the right elbow.


:EDIT: Ok, after talking to a few more people threw FB it appears you were right. wrapping it and letting it rest on the intake is the best solution. Thanks for the help.

Also. Make sure ur 90* is poinTed towards the engine hard to tell from the pic. . It will give you more slack to play with. |.||,

[SR20HAYES]

Originally Posted by ultimateirving

Also. Make sure ur 90* is poinTed towards the engine hard to tell from the pic. . It will give you more slack to play with. |.||,

Not sure what you mean. The 90 on the coolant return is facing down. The engine mount is close so I can't really do it another way. Might be able to face it towards the front of the car but it would be running along the block.

[ultimateirving]

That's what I meant. Try and cockeye it pointed forward. Any extra slack should be enough to get a 3" coupler on and let it ride on top.

[EsChassisLove]

Dude just run the damn thing it isn't going to hurt anything lol

[cotbu]

Originally Posted by EsChassisLove

Dude just run the damn thing it isn't going to hurt anything lol

I concur!!!

[SR20HAYES]

Originally Posted by EsChassisLove

Dude just run the damn thing it isn't going to hurt anything lol

Lol I'm in no rush. I just wanted to make sure It was right even if it means second guessing myself and asking stupid questions on the forums. Thanks for the help.

[datsr510]

Hello fellow 2871 users, here is some info on my current setup:
2871r .86 a/r
BC 264 cams
550 Tomei injectors
Tomei ras
Cosworth HG
ARP studs
Safc2 for tune @ 15lbs
Also I had to change the original internal wastegate to an hks one.
Anyways I made 340.9 whp & 329.5 torque on dynojet

[MedHat240sx]

Originally Posted by SR20HAYES

The problem is the rod is now too short. I extended to rod end all the way out and still can't attach it. Maybe if i preload the shit out of it would, but obviously I wouldn't want to do that.

I had the same problem then i bought a Waste gate actuator extension from Z1 Motorsport super cheap and 100% adjustable... then i went external cuz i got a brand new turbonetics for 190.

[BlackZenkiS14]

Hey guys, running an oem internal Wastergate actuator, and it falls off of boost at high rpm.

Does installing an HKS actuator correct this? I'm running a Greddy Profec_B for boost control, so i just need something that will maintain 17psi to redline.

And if not, can i convert to external gate without permanently welding the door shut on the turbo? I plan on selling it in the next year, and don't want to weld it. And my option for going external would be extrude honed oem manifold, but what kind of wastegate?

Cody, can you shed some light on this please? What does it cost for one of those manifold done up right?

[SR20HAYES]

Originally Posted by MedHat240sx

I had the same problem then i bought a Waste gate actuator extension from Z1 Motorsport super cheap and 100% adjustable... then i went external cuz i got a brand new turbonetics for 190.

I almost bought that same extension arm, but ended up getting an adjustable bracket that worked great. I paid a bit more then what the extension was, but oh well. What manifold are you using with your external gate? I want to do the same in the future.

[datsr510]

[QUOTE=BlackZenkiS14;5277122]Hey guys, running an oem internal Wastergate actuator, and it falls off of boost at high rpm.

Does installing an HKS actuator correct this? I'm running a Greddy Profec_B for boost control, so i just need something that will maintain 17psi to redline.

At first the oem one was fine then got stuck closed. It started breaking up afer 5k... so it was overboost and there wouldent be enough fuel. Now I'm only running the hks internal and I have no problems holding 15lbs to redline.
All the people I know running higher then 12lbs break up with the profec-b. Not bashing just saying

[180sxqc]

hey guys,

I have a JWT ecu and some basic mods: 740cc, Z32 maf, GT2871R

I have been running 10psi for almost a month now
AFR was between 11.4-11.6 to redline

I cranked up the boost to 12-13 psi today and noticed that the AFR drops to 11.0-11.2

Is it normal or should I worry about something, 11.0 is probably not bad but I was expecting 11.5 up to redline

I've only done a few pulls, will the ECU correct itself to 11.5 after a few moments?

*I have an AEM wideband btw

I was wondering if I should be contacting Ben at JWT, thought I could ask here before..

Thanks guys

[AsleepAltima]

11.0-11.5 is nothing to be scared of at 10psi. with my 2871 i was getting 10.5-12.1 at redline with 20lbs.

[BlackZenkiS14]

Originally Posted by 180sxqc

hey guys,

I have a JWT ecu and some basic mods: 740cc, Z32 maf, GT2871R

I have been running 10psi for almost a month now
AFR was between 11.4-11.6 to redline

I cranked up the boost to 12-13 psi today and noticed that the AFR drops to 11.0-11.2

Is it normal or should I worry about something, 11.0 is probably not bad but I was expecting 11.5 up to redline

I've only done a few pulls, will the ECU correct itself to 11.5 after a few moments?

*I have an AEM wideband btw

I was wondering if I should be contacting Ben at JWT, thought I could ask here before..

Thanks guys

AFR is very dependent on other things too, such as fuel pressure. The ECU is seeing more air moving therefore increasing fuel output to meet demand, it's not always going to be dead spot on perfect. I make very minor adjustments to my fuel pressure to fine tune for AFR like that.

[KA240SX808]

^But wouldn't that only be effective if the ECU/Tune was made to only run Open loop.
Cause if it was closed loop reading the O2 wouldn't it just keep adjusting the Inj PW until it either gets what it wants or can't adjust anymore?

[180sxqc]

Originally Posted by BlackZenkiS14

AFR is very dependent on other things too, such as fuel pressure. The ECU is seeing more air moving therefore increasing fuel output to meet demand, it's not always going to be dead spot on perfect. I make very minor adjustments to my fuel pressure to fine tune for AFR like that.

I am running stock fuel pressure, afr is a little rich on higher rpms but perfect for idle/cruising speed

[SnaggleToof]

What intake is everyone using off their 2871??

I have the 2871 and tubbed engine bay, worried about space for the intake... Filter might have to sit behind the radiatior along the frame rail. Im guessing everyone is using a custom made intake pipe?

[801nismo104]

mine goes straight down towards the ground

[AsleepAltima]

i picked up a fujita sri from a member, here.

[turbolino]

if i sayÃ*m running a gt2871r 64A/R at 23 psi 11.5AF to red l
anyone believe me