Clicking / Ticking Noise.. Possibly arching from plugs? - Page 2 - Zilvia.net Forums | Nissan 240SX (Silvia) and Z (Fairlady) Car Forum

jr_ss · 07-21-2015, 04:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kruked

Lol. He's a "post whore" who joined at the end of 2005.

Lol, such a post whore, fucking troll!

Sorry, I'm just trolling.

Haha Jay, no worries. I'll continue being a post whore and helping people out.

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2plus4plus0eq6

I'll give that a try and get back to you. I think I did that once while it was running and it just died... can't remember

Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk

It shouldn't have just died. That just controls the VTC oil flow. It activates just off idle and switches off at 5200rpms. I just wanted to see if it made a change to the noise.

2plus4plus0eq6 · 07-25-2015, 02:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jr_ss

Yeah, yeah...

Try unplugging your VTC solenoid, it's the red plug right next to the throttle body coming out of the head.

OK so I unplugged the VTC solenoid and started it up. It idled like shit just so you know. It was kinda loud. I didn't notice the clicking (maybe cause the idle was loud from other stuff). I plugged it back in and cranked it over. heard the noise again. So I guess its the solenoid.

I was doing a little research and found this thread. Just so you know, my neutral position switch is not hooked up. I don't see how this could relate to the vct?? so the clicking noise is the solenoid actuating/de-actuating really fast?

kane01 · 07-25-2015, 04:30 PM

I'm really fond of my S14 but your car looks pretty sweet.Same color too. You should be able to narrow it down by finding which area its coming from. Sometimes youn can hear better underneath without fan and other noise. Has it always done it or just recently after changing or replacing something.

2plus4plus0eq6 · 07-25-2015, 10:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kane01

I'm really fond of my S14 but your car looks pretty sweet.Same color too. You should be able to narrow it down by finding which area its coming from. Sometimes youn can hear better underneath without fan and other noise. Has it always done it or just recently after changing or replacing something.

Thanks man. I plan on doing a s15 front end conversion with widebody panels all around. I like the color but not fond of the front end.

As for the sound. Has it always done that? To be honest.. I am not sure. I only just recently noticed it. I have not had the car running for the longest time. Only since the end of last summer. Now I am trying to fix all of the bugs. I don't have a consult port, so I find it hard to find engine problems.

kane01 · 07-26-2015, 11:08 PM

Lifters and rockers tap. Exhaust leak is usually a tick accompanied with soot and exhaust smell. Lower end is gonna be a knock, obviously louder and deeper than the top end noise. Injectors tick and so does your spark if it grounds out just right and the spark is stretched a little. Are there performance symptoms that will help us find waldo.

From your moms basement / using hacked rotary phone

2plus4plus0eq6 · 07-27-2015, 09:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kane01

Lifters and rockers tap. Exhaust leak is usually a tick accompanied with soot and exhaust smell. Lower end is gonna be a knock, obviously louder and deeper than the top end noise. Injectors tick and so does your spark if it grounds out just right and the spark is stretched a little. Are there performance symptoms that will help us find waldo.

From your moms basement / using hacked rotary phone

I haven't noticed any performance problems other than some boost hesitation which can come from my controller and some backfire

Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk

2plus4plus0eq6 · 07-29-2015, 11:36 AM

UPDATE:

I had misdiagnosed my engine. I thought it was the VTC solenoid. It was actually the TPS. When I did a check on the TPS, I had noticed it was turned all the way clockwise. I checked the FSM and did a resistance test on it.

FSM states:

throttle released = 0.7 ohms
partial = 0.7 - 5 ohms
WOT = Approx 5 ohms

Mine was totally off. I got my throttle released now set to 0.7 ohms. which is perfect. I can't quite get my WOT to 5 ohms. I get approx 4.1 ohms. I know the FSM says approx.

I had an issue with backfiring and this has seemed to stop it. The car runs way better, quieter, smoother, more power. No more clicking/ticking noise.

BUT... on the downside, my car seems to die a lot more often when coming to a stop. I have a lightweight flywheel and drive shaft. Found what I have read, there is not enough inertia to stop the engine from stalling when coming down from revs. I am pretty sure I need to now try and increase my base idle. Because now after messing with my TPS, I have noticed my idle is a lot lower than it was... and it was low already before!!!

Pretty embarrassing I tell ya when driving around and stalling. Some hot tart on the sidewalk watching and laughing thinking I can't drive stick lol

My tach is not working at the moment due to have a sohc cluster with my sr20. Anyways I think I can raise idle with the IACV.

Any comments or questions are appreciated

EDIT: I was able to raise the idle. Not sure its set at, but I don't seem to stall at stops now. It still drops down a lot, but then bounces back enough to keep car alive. I am happy. I might raise idle a little bit more in near future. Not sure how much more screw can come out lol

jr_ss · 07-29-2015, 03:20 PM

Do you have a BOV that vents to atmosphere?

2plus4plus0eq6 · 07-29-2015, 03:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jr_ss

Do you have a BOV that vents to atmosphere?

It's recirculating and vacuum is like -25. I build boost no problem to about 13 pounds which is what my controller is set at

Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk

jr_ss · 07-29-2015, 03:26 PM

What is your base idle?

2plus4plus0eq6 · 07-29-2015, 03:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jr_ss

What is your base idle?

I don't know. My tach isn't working. Sounds like it's around 1000

Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk

jr_ss · 07-29-2015, 04:36 PM

Let's fix the tach next, then you can set base timing.

2plus4plus0eq6 · 07-29-2015, 04:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jr_ss

Let's fix the tach next, then you can set base timing.

Totally agreed. Its the next thing on my list. Budget for the year is gone. Will have to wait til spring.

Quick question. Does increasing base idle make it difficult to set timing properly since revs are now higher? does there need to be a proper idle speed so timing can be set? I ask because I believe when engine revs go up, the engine will advance timing on its on. This may not be the case since I am not increasing the idle by much?

thanks

kane01 · 07-29-2015, 08:39 PM

Trying to adjust timing to make up for idle changes or possible idle issues will be a bandaid on a stabb wound. Will probably cause some valvetrain issues at some point in the timing curve. Gonna go against my better judgement and guess that it will give you some valve noise or worse around 4000-4500 rpms. Not that familiar with the sr's but i did the same thing on my ka to make up for a wore out iacv and at about 2800-3000 i got valvetrain noise and a little loss of power. I would set base timing and try to get a nice smooth idle that you can just barely feather the clutch and get your car moving without giving any throttle at all. If that makes since to you. KA has a little more torque and it idles right at 940ish and i can do it but i dont like dragging my clutch out like that.

07-29-2015, 11:36 AM	#37
2plus4plus0eq6 Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Canada, BC Posts: 390 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	UPDATE: I had misdiagnosed my engine. I thought it was the VTC solenoid. It was actually the TPS. When I did a check on the TPS, I had noticed it was turned all the way clockwise. I checked the FSM and did a resistance test on it. FSM states: throttle released = 0.7 ohms partial = 0.7 - 5 ohms WOT = Approx 5 ohms Mine was totally off. I got my throttle released now set to 0.7 ohms. which is perfect. I can't quite get my WOT to 5 ohms. I get approx 4.1 ohms. I know the FSM says approx. I had an issue with backfiring and this has seemed to stop it. The car runs way better, quieter, smoother, more power. No more clicking/ticking noise. BUT... on the downside, my car seems to die a lot more often when coming to a stop. I have a lightweight flywheel and drive shaft. Found what I have read, there is not enough inertia to stop the engine from stalling when coming down from revs. I am pretty sure I need to now try and increase my base idle. Because now after messing with my TPS, I have noticed my idle is a lot lower than it was... and it was low already before!!! Pretty embarrassing I tell ya when driving around and stalling. Some hot tart on the sidewalk watching and laughing thinking I can't drive stick lol My tach is not working at the moment due to have a sohc cluster with my sr20. Anyways I think I can raise idle with the IACV. Any comments or questions are appreciated EDIT: I was able to raise the idle. Not sure its set at, but I don't seem to stall at stops now. It still drops down a lot, but then bounces back enough to keep car alive. I am happy. I might raise idle a little bit more in near future. Not sure how much more screw can come out lol __________________ Last edited by 2plus4plus0eq6; 07-29-2015 at 01:02 PM..

07-29-2015, 03:20 PM	#38
jr_ss Post Whore! Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Pa Posts: 6,415 Trader Rating: (35) Feedback Score: 35 reviews	Do you have a BOV that vents to atmosphere? __________________ My SR20VET Does your VTC gear rattle in your S14/15 SR? PM me.

07-29-2015, 03:26 PM	#40
jr_ss Post Whore! Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Pa Posts: 6,415 Trader Rating: (35) Feedback Score: 35 reviews	What is your base idle? __________________ My SR20VET Does your VTC gear rattle in your S14/15 SR? PM me.

07-29-2015, 04:36 PM	#42
jr_ss Post Whore! Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Pa Posts: 6,415 Trader Rating: (35) Feedback Score: 35 reviews	Let's fix the tach next, then you can set base timing. __________________ My SR20VET Does your VTC gear rattle in your S14/15 SR? PM me.

07-25-2015, 04:30 PM	#33
kane01 Join Date: Jul 2015 Location: Mid Mo. Age: 51 Posts: 32 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	I'm really fond of my S14 but your car looks pretty sweet.Same color too. You should be able to narrow it down by finding which area its coming from. Sometimes youn can hear better underneath without fan and other noise. Has it always done it or just recently after changing or replacing something.

07-26-2015, 11:08 PM	#35
kane01 Join Date: Jul 2015 Location: Mid Mo. Age: 51 Posts: 32 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Lifters and rockers tap. Exhaust leak is usually a tick accompanied with soot and exhaust smell. Lower end is gonna be a knock, obviously louder and deeper than the top end noise. Injectors tick and so does your spark if it grounds out just right and the spark is stretched a little. Are there performance symptoms that will help us find waldo. From your moms basement / using hacked rotary phone

07-29-2015, 08:39 PM	#44
kane01 Join Date: Jul 2015 Location: Mid Mo. Age: 51 Posts: 32 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Trying to adjust timing to make up for idle changes or possible idle issues will be a bandaid on a stabb wound. Will probably cause some valvetrain issues at some point in the timing curve. Gonna go against my better judgement and guess that it will give you some valve noise or worse around 4000-4500 rpms. Not that familiar with the sr's but i did the same thing on my ka to make up for a wore out iacv and at about 2800-3000 i got valvetrain noise and a little loss of power. I would set base timing and try to get a nice smooth idle that you can just barely feather the clutch and get your car moving without giving any throttle at all. If that makes since to you. KA has a little more torque and it idles right at 940ish and i can do it but i dont like dragging my clutch out like that.