Self-tuning an SAFCII

[NemeGuero]

Any body done this without a dyno? It's for a KA-T.. Just wondering how hard it is and the best settings that have worked out for people.

My setup is:
hacked MAF
sr 370's
t3/t4

Any input would be great! Don't really want to shell out more money for dyno time when I plan on replacing it with an Enthalpy ECU later anyway.

I do have a wideband too..

thanks

[broken_s13]

It seems that you dont need an safc. Ive heard of people running fine with hacked mafs on 370's and thats it. Just make sure its the right size indiamater. You should be able to tune with wideband, But you cant beat dyno tuning bang for the buck.

[mixedwell]

this is how i did it.... find an open street. have a friend with you that knows what they are doing, or knows how to drive your car. tune your SAFC accordingly. screw dynos.

- shady, huh?

[BlazedGlory]

Originally Posted by mixedwell

this is how i did it.... find an open street. have a friend with you that knows what they are doing, or knows how to drive your car. tune your SAFC accordingly. screw dynos.

- shady, huh?

I'd say minimum you need a wideband, but I'm no pro. I used a wideband... It seems like randomly adjusting safc settings without actually knowing how it is affecting your afrs is just a terrible idea...

But then again, I heard there's some deaf, dumb, and blind kid that sure plays a mean pinball...

[Muzzy]

yea i would get a wideband...it bit costly...but its even more costly to have a blown motor. with the SAFC...all u can tune by is injector duty and stuff...not the a/f ratio. and its very important to know that. its pretty much the base of tuning

[Revhigh]

What do you think the AF in SAFC is for....you can control air/fuel with an SAFC as well as the injector duty cycles.

[Dousan_PG]

dynotune safc is usually like 110 bucks if that.
id just get it done, takes less then an hour
unless you have the tools yourself and expirience

[orion::S14]

Originally Posted by Revhigh

What do you think the AF in SAFC is for....you can control air/fuel with an SAFC as well as the injector duty cycles.

Just to be clear:

I think what "Muzzy" is saying is that you can't read/monitor the A/F with an S-AFC and use it to tune with...

...and S-AFC is "Super Air Flow Converter". (EDIT: Not controller, sorry)

Originally Posted by Muzzy

with the SAFC...all u can tune by is injector duty and stuff...not the a/f ratio.

But...

You don't tune by duty cycle or changing ANYTHING directly related to the injectors...an AFC modifies the MAF output voltage that the ECU sees.

All it does is trick the ECU into thinking there is less or more airflow than there actually is...so the ECU injects less or more fuel.

- Brian

[Revhigh]

Oh ok, I didn't read it that way, if thats the way he meant it thats fine. Cool Cool. I didn't realize all that Brian...guess you learn something new everyday!!

[NemeGuero]

anybody wanna share their adjustments who might have a similar KA-t setup?
Hacked MAF
370ccs
t3/t4
8psi
TIA

[orion::S14]

^^^ What sized Hacked MAF tube? That's important...

And an answer to your Q will be hard to come by, considering the Hacked MAF is a substitute to an AFC...it's either one or the other for most of us.

...

Oh, and self tuning...BAD IDEA without a wideband. If you can monitor the A/F, then it's easy. Very simple. No wideband...no idea of what you're actually doing...no good.

- Brian

[skiboard06]

take ur car out on a good open straight road do some nice full throttle pulls on ur safc put in on a mode to check counts of knock. Lean your full throttle injector correction out in most of your rpm settings until u see knock once u get some counts of knock them put a little more fuel back in will be different at differnet temps and humidity

[nsn240]

Originally Posted by skiboard06

take ur car out on a good open straight road do some nice full throttle pulls on ur safc put in on a mode to check counts of knock. Lean your full throttle injector correction out in most of your rpm settings until u see knock once u get some counts of knock them put a little more fuel back in will be different at differnet temps and humidity

with an wideband o2 sensor too

[drift freaq]

well with the PowerFC you can do it. The PowerFC learns your engine. Its pretty damn cool. Put on my RB and drove it around and the computer figured everything out, according to my setup and spit out the information on the commander. Now I do have the ability to alter stuff with the commander, but with the readings we were getting on the commander the FC did a pretty damn good job of tuning the engine. Now all I have to do is get low speed cooling issues taken care of.
Oh ya , I am going to take the car up to Palmdale to dyno it soon.

[orion::S14]

Originally Posted by skiboard06

put in on a mode to check counts of knock. Lean your full throttle injector correction out in most of your rpm settings until u see knock once u get some counts of knock them put a little more fuel back...

Would work fine for a DSM (w/ active timing control) or other factory turbocharged car...or a KA-T with a built motor...but a stock block KA-T needs just a little knock to break the ring lands.

Lean it a couple percent too much, and you'll be buying a new motor.

Just spend the $60 on a couple dyno pulls with wideband, and go from there.

Gotta pay to play, simple as that. And when you half-ass it, you'll pay even more...trying to be cheap and go fast = more money spent than if you would have done it right the first time.

- Brian

[North240]

Best advice i can give is put your stock MAF back in and tune for 10s under full boost with the SAFC, its really not that hard, just tkae it slow. The reason i would recomend to put the stock MAF back in is just to have the least amount of varibles when tuning. 8 PSI on a t3/t4 might be a little high for the stock MAF try starting a little lower depending on your wastegate spring (if you can). Or run a maxima MAF for cheap, i got mine for $30.

[SR240DET]

Originally Posted by North240

Best advice i can give is put your stock MAF back in and tune for 10s under full boost with the SAFC, its really not that hard, just tkae it slow. The reason i would recomend to put the stock MAF back in is just to have the least amount of varibles when tuning. 8 PSI on a t3/t4 might be a little high for the stock MAF try starting a little lower depending on your wastegate spring (if you can). Or run a maxima MAF for cheap, i got mine for $30.

whoa whoa whoa whoa whoa whoa whoa........ N60 maxima mafs works?

[NemeGuero]

for KA probably

what do you mean for 10's? Is that a/f? I thought ideal was 11.5-12?
I haven't set the SAFC up yet so I don't know what that is..
Yah I think i want to ditch the hacked maf.. anyone want to trade me for a stock KA MAF? I have a PLX Wideband already.. and it says that in the first post..

but under current conditions, couldn't I just install the safc and zero it out? just so i can use the features like the decelleration thing and the open ATM BOV compensation?

[nistech]

what is wideband
and so does maxima mafs work
most people use cobra mafs right?

[Tenchuu]

Originally Posted by nistech

what is wideband
and so does maxima mafs work
most people use cobra mafs right?

a quick search would help to clue you in on this conversation

wideband = o2 sensor

maxima mafs work too a point i.e
http://www.zilvia.net/f/showpost.php...37&postcount=2
http://www.zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=86560

most people Perfer Z32 MAFS

[North240]

Sorry i should have clarified, on my KAT the n60 max maf works without issue. Same size as z32 maf, much lower flow capacity, but still quite an upgrade from the KA for cheap.

I said tune for A/Fs of 10 basically where you want to be on a street tune under full boost, its better to be safe than sorry. With the throttle points on the SAFC 2 you can tune for off boost with throttle position and that can be tuned much higher, A/Fs of 13-14. But understand how it works first. Hope that clarified things