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Chat General Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars |
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#1 |
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SSR mesh wheels. who has removed the face?
Thinking of removing the face. Looks pretty straight forward, but just wanna make sure I don't run into any problems. Anybody remove theirs before? They look pretty old so it would suck if I was in the process of taking them off and a stud snap or something.
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#2 |
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Hm use PB Blaster. Let it soak and go at it with an impact since there are 20 something bolts/nuts to loosen per rim. I had to have the face pressed out by the shop that polished them, but it worked out since I took all the bolts off ahead of time.
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#3 | |
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so they were really stuck on there eh? BTW you mind sharing how much it cost you to get your wheels done? |
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#4 |
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The face was on their pretty good. I used a drift and pounded with a mallet to get it off, but didn't have any luck. It was about 30 to 35 per rim to polish them.
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#5 | |
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mine have a bunch of dirt on the insides, and its impossible to clean.. thinking about sandblasting them and just spraying them black or something |
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#6 |
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I did the faces myself. And it's not impossible to clean. You can simple green it and use a high pressure sprayer to take off most of the dirt. I ended up stripping the paint off with aircraft stripper and repainting them. Yeah you might be better off using the air craft stripper and sandblasting. It should be a nice silver finish afterwards. Then you can clearcoat it or leave it as-is.
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My Impul faces came off with no problems at all, and they were dirty and corroded all to hell. Just one tap with the palm of my hand and out they came.
If you spend the time to polish them be sure to sand away all the machining lines, and don't clear them. just go over them with some Mothers every couple a weeks. Get a Flitz ball or something if your lazy. Took me 40+ hours to polish my wheels and refinish the faces. One of them was curbed and I repaired it myself, looks brand new. I even polished up all 160 rivets as well...
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#12 |
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i was consider doing it also, but im not worried about taking it apart or refinishing them...im worried about torquing all the rivets down...for the sake of safety, i would like to think that each one has to be torqued to a specific setting and a specific order...could the guys who DIY'd it cover this aspect of the subject?
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#13 |
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Torque it in a cross- star pattern. And torque evenly. I did mine to 4, 6, 8 and I forget if I stopped at 10 or 12 but It's not that much since the bolts are quite small. I believe it was 8-10ft-lbs. Not much at all.
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I just snugged them all and used a little threadlock. (criss crossed pattern)
I have 40 rivets per wheel, it would be hard to imagine any of them coming loose. If you're wheels had say 20 or less holding it together then it would be more concerning As the guy above said, they are small bolts, (6mm or so) and do not need to be cranked on.
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#16 |
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One more thing, when removing the face, be sure to note where it was positioned and reassemble it the same way. For instance my Impuls have a very tiny notch in the back of each face that lines up with the hole for the valve stem. Just use a paint pen or something to mark a bolt hole part of the wheel that will allow you to reassmble the faces onto the wheel in the same position.
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#17 |
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Some faces dont require much force to seperate from the donuts, but some need to be pressed/hammered out. You will be able to tell quickly once you remove all the bolts. Sometimes a torch and a freezer is required to assemble/disassemble. Every SSR face I have unbolted would not come off by hand.
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#18 | |
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#20 | |
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#22 |
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Ok so you say 8-10ft-lbs, does this apply to taller wheels and wider wheels also? I just wanted to see what torque specs people were using since I assumed different specs for differents brands of wheels.
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#23 |
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Yes. The bolts are only allowed so much torque since they're a limited size. If they were much larger, it might vary, but if you're concerned, you could possibly contact the vendor.
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