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Old 10-17-2005, 01:29 AM   #1
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Can you see what my timing is set at by the timing chain marks?

Car won't start and haven't had a chance to double check the dist. settings but can anyone even see if my timing is off by this pic?

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Old 10-17-2005, 04:47 PM   #2
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you are 180 degrees out on TDC. rotate it again so that cam sprocket marks are on top it will be easyer to see it.

whats the backgroudn story man.... whhat all did you do and why do you think it may be off ? looks liek all you did was chance the guides and tentioners and you shouldnt have to worry about the timing then.


if it was up to me i'd get new OEM chains and then you wont have to worry about not having it timed properly

below is what it shoudl look liek when you put new chain on and have all marks ligned up.
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Old 10-17-2005, 08:28 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Al_S14
you are 180 degrees out on TDC. rotate it again so that cam sprocket marks are on top it will be easyer to see it.

whats the backgroudn story man.... whhat all did you do and why do you think it may be off ? looks liek all you did was chance the guides and tentioners and you shouldnt have to worry about the timing then.


if it was up to me i'd get new OEM chains and then you wont have to worry about not having it timed properly

below is what it shoudl look liek when you put new chain on and have all marks ligned up.
I was just doing the normal tensioners/guides replacement and it went bad. After getting everything put back together the thing wouldnt start but I started reading and it seems as though you have to mess with the distributor to ensure everything is timed right. I assumed that it'd be like the sr but I should've known better since the ka is a stupid fucking truck motor lol. So now I have to hope that my idiot friend that wanted to keep trying to crank the car over didnt bend any of my valves because it didnt sound good at all when he would try to crank it.
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Old 10-17-2005, 08:29 PM   #4
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BTW that pic you have attached.. is that tdc? The fsm does a great job of not explaining any of this.
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Old 10-17-2005, 10:09 PM   #5
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i was going to help you.. BUT, the KA isn't a truck motor.
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Old 10-17-2005, 10:29 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NemeGuero
i was going to help you.. BUT, the KA isn't a truck motor.
AHAH come on man it's a joke. Everyone calls it a truck motor
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Old 10-17-2005, 10:44 PM   #7
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It's funny because nissan did that and now they put the qr25de in the b15... same scenario for the most part.
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Old 10-17-2005, 11:58 PM   #8
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unless you are %100 sure you replaced everything exactly where it needs to be, I'd start over. off by a chain link could spell disaster. new chains have dots showing their TDC positions. each gear also has a respective dot. there are other posts that specify this..

rotate the motor and see if you can get the dots and colored links to line up.. then redo the distributor
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Old 10-18-2005, 01:17 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SR20Inside
BTW that pic you have attached.. is that tdc? The fsm does a great job of not explaining any of this.
yes this is how it should be ... and as others said id remove the chain re time it. but as i said earlyer rotate the engine nore more revolution before taking chain off since it is 180 out now. cam lobes on #1 piston shoudl be pointing away from each other.

you can be off by one link and it will run but wont make much power and idle like crap. IF you had the distributor on #1 and engine was teh way it is now it wouldnt start since it woudl be 180 out.

what you can do to check for bent valves is stick compression tested in and crank engien by hand(pull all plugs out) . you shoudl get around 100psi

PS: next time i hear "truck motor" we're going to have some major issues!
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Old 10-18-2005, 01:18 PM   #10
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o yeah another thing. sometimes at the factory they put timing chain on front side facing inwards so you may not see any marks on it... so once its off flip it over and marks should be on the back.
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Old 10-18-2005, 01:53 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Al_S14

PS: next time i hear "truck motor" we're going to have some major issues!
WORD!! it came in the s13 a year before it was released into the hardbody pickup....
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Old 10-18-2005, 08:01 PM   #12
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Now why the hell would nissan do something stupid like putting the timing marks so you can't see them?
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Old 10-18-2005, 10:17 PM   #13
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so you have to pay someone else to change it
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Old 10-19-2005, 12:06 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NemeGuero
so you have to pay someone else to change it
ahha, it's cool. I love my ka engine , I AM GOING NA KA w000t
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Old 10-19-2005, 02:45 PM   #15
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i love my KA's im in the process of looking for a reputable builder for one. Supposedly the one in my daily driver was rebuilt by the guy who had it before me(id trust him as he does have a KA-T putting 476lbs of torque down) but it makes ZERO power untill around 3,000. I mean my stock 92 in my other car would eat this car for breakfast. My friends STOCK 89 SOHC will take my 92 DOHC with a hotshot header, test pipe, N1 dual and injen cold air. Doesnt add up does it? I love the KA but mine has seen better days. Almost tempted to get another SR and put it in there, stock SR would be much nicer.

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Old 10-19-2005, 10:34 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by undercoverdjay
i love my KA's im in the process of looking for a reputable builder for one. Supposedly the one in my daily driver was rebuilt by the guy who had it before me(id trust him as he does have a KA-T putting 476lbs of torque down) but it makes ZERO power untill around. I mean my stock 92 in my other car would eat this car for breakfast. My friends STOCK 89 SOHC will take my 92 DOHC with a hotshot header, test pipe, N1 dual and injen cold air. Doesnt add up does it? I love the KA but mine has seen better days. Almost tempted to get another SR and put it in there, stock SR would be much nicer.
That makes no sense man, think you got things mixed up


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Old 10-20-2005, 10:32 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Al_S14
o yeah another thing. sometimes at the factory they put timing chain on front side facing inwards so you may not see any marks on it... so once its off flip it over and marks should be on the back.
Wouldn't there be a way to use a flashlight or something to look at the side of the link to see it? There has to be a way other than taking it off.
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Old 10-20-2005, 11:32 AM   #18
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OMG here it is....



How am I supposed to rotate the chain? Do I have to take one of the cams out?
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Old 10-20-2005, 01:21 PM   #19
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scratch the above, i put a screw driver down the #1 spark plug hole and once the engine was at the top the cams are both pointing away from each other and my distributor is set right to fire on cylinder #1. Why else would it not run?
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Old 10-20-2005, 03:27 PM   #20
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your cam timing could still be off from your crank timing if the chain did manage to slip a tooth while you were replacing the guides/tensioners
EM12 has your timing info in the FSM
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Old 10-20-2005, 03:27 PM   #21
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also.. check the basics... fuel, air, & spark
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Old 10-20-2005, 06:56 PM   #22
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My plugs were black as all hell and my wires are kinda messed up too so I am going to grab new ones for when i put it all back together. I tore it all apart again this afternoon so I hopefully will get it right this time.

If I am going to be pulling the idler shaft off etc... would it be wise to get new chains while i am at it? the car only has 160k on it and ran AWESOME before I started messing with it.
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Old 10-20-2005, 07:02 PM   #23
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new chains is always a good idea.. they can slack after that many miles. When I changed my chain, the new one was NOTICEABLY tighter than the old chain. and i barely had 130k
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Old 10-21-2005, 01:33 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NemeGuero
new chains is always a good idea.. they can slack after that many miles. When I changed my chain, the new one was NOTICEABLY tighter than the old chain. and i barely had 130k
Also has anyone had problems with their water pump leaking coolant on the crank pulley? the breather hole on teh bottom of the water pump seems to be leaking on mine and it drips right behind the crank pulley so it seems the main seal would go bad pretty quick.

Hey Neme, the fsm I downloaded doesnt reference any of the information you are talking about with the timing chain. You have a different one I could download?
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Old 10-21-2005, 03:04 AM   #25
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search on here.. otherwise get me your year and i can send it to you.. did you seal your water pump with the liquid sealer stuff?
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Old 10-21-2005, 10:30 AM   #26
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Quote:
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search on here.. otherwise get me your year and i can send it to you.. did you seal your water pump with the liquid sealer stuff?
'93, yea it isn't leaking around the seal it is leaking from the breather hole thing if that makes sense. You haven't come up with any pictures have you? I am still confused what is meant by tdc...

For example yesterday I made sure piston #1 was at its highest, cams pointing away from each other, and the distributor to fire on cylinder #1 but the timing marks weren't lined up.... is that tdc or do you hvae to keep turning the engine until the marks line up? I would assume that would be considering tdc unless the correlation between the cams,crank, and distributor isn't the exact same every rotation..?
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Old 10-21-2005, 04:10 PM   #27
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Pics are on my other comp... I'll get them tonight maybe.. your pump shouldn't be leaking at all. Is it new or the old one still? TDC is top dead center, its how everything syncronizes together, the base point if you will. At TDC, the #1 piston is at the top of its compression stroke, the first cam lobes are all pointing outwards and the distributor should be ready to fire on #1.. THAT, is TDC.
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Old 10-21-2005, 07:44 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NemeGuero
Pics are on my other comp... I'll get them tonight maybe.. your pump shouldn't be leaking at all. Is it new or the old one still? TDC is top dead center, its how everything syncronizes together, the base point if you will. At TDC, the #1 piston is at the top of its compression stroke, the first cam lobes are all pointing outwards and the distributor should be ready to fire on #1.. THAT, is TDC.
Old water pump, only had the car a year so not sure when it was replaced last. Going to get a new one considering the leak

As far as TDC I was talking with some people today and from what we can gather it shouldn't matter if the dots and the colored chain links are matching up as long as the #1 piston is all the way up, cams opposite each other and the dist. pointing at cylinder #1. Does that sound right?
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Old 10-21-2005, 08:02 PM   #29
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no, the chain links matter. It ensures the proper spacing between cam openings and cylinder revolutions.. if you're off by a link, you could have interference and that would require a new motor.. or at least a new head after you bent your valves. Timing is CRITICAL.. thats why the details are so tedious
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Old 10-21-2005, 08:45 PM   #30
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