Bought a TURBO KIT!!!

[Jeff240sx]

Ok. I just bought a T3/04E hybrid and a Revhard manifold earlier today <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/biggrin.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=''>
Now comes the crazy part, and I would greatly appreciate EVERYONES opinions, comments, and flames <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/crazy.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':crazy:'> to help me finish off my project.
I need a wastegate. What bolts onto a Revhard manifold? I have heard a Tial 35mm. In addition, I need a low pressure spring, like 4 or 5 psi till my next paycheck. Where can I get one?
Then a BOV. Everyone is saying recirculating. Do all BOVs recirculate, like.. I just need to put a tube over it and back into the intake line to do it, or are there certain models that are made to recirculate?
Then a Boost Controller. I am deciding between HKS and Apex'i for Electronic controllers. I think an HKS would be easier to fit, and less costly, since the Apex'i site has 3 more pieces for it, each $80. Wiring harnesses and such. Are they necessary? If not, I'd consider the Apex'i. And is there something the Apex'i does that the HKS EVC won't? Is it worth the $200 price difference?
What gauges will I need to monitor my system? I'm thinking Oil pressure, Oil temp, and Fuel to Air meter. Anything else? I'm assuming that the electronic boost controller will display real time boost pressure.
Next. Can any performance shop plumb my oil pan for a feen and return line?
And Finally. Who makes larger injectors and how much?
Thanks, and I know this is a lot of questions, but I have a week till my turbo gets here, and I'd like to research stuff and get it all at the same time. Then go boostin!
-Jeff

Edit: &nbsp;Mistake

[luey02]

I'm doin research too.. &nbsp;But still having questions..

for wastegate, I dont know about revhard, just email them.

BOV, it just lets the boost go out into the atmospher with that pss sound, recirculateing valve serves the same function but recirculate the extra boost back into intake without the sound. &nbsp;rv's are cheaper I think..

boost controller, wait a couple of months and I'll tell you.. &nbsp;most important gauges are EGT (coolant temp???), boost, and a/f. &nbsp;good point skippin on the boost gauge.. I dunno.

lotta peeps use apexi injectors.. &nbsp;two kinds, side and top feed, side feed for KA's I think.

email nsport or something.

As much as I hate to say it, but Freshalloy forums are much more knowledge and useful than zilvia.. &nbsp;Go search the topic on there and you'll know everything. &nbsp;still tryin to fiqure out what EGT is tho.. mmm.. &nbsp; &nbsp;<img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/eh.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':eh:'>

[macrocosm]

The tial wastegate's fit the revhard manifold, my dad has one on his 92 with a 7lb spring. It looks awsome, there a lot bigger in person then i thought they would be. Make sure you get a manual boost gauge, from what i have heard they are far more acurate then any electronic ones. As far as the oil line i think you can get an adapter to put in where your oil filter goes that have fittings to run oil lines to the turbo. If you get an oil filter relocator it makes it real easy, thats what my dad did. As far as injectors go, you can probably fit some of the nismo sidefeeds or some of the other japanese companies injectors, i think you could also fit the 370's from an SR, which are cheap and should be good for a few extra psi. Other wise you'll have to get top feeds and a costom rail.
by the way egt=exhaust gas temp.
-Jeremiah Jordan
90 hatch sr20det

[tnord]

PM AceInHole......he knows a lot about this stuff, also, don't some turbo's come with internal wastegates?<img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/confused.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt='???'> before you try and run the car......make sure all the oil lines are perfect.....no oil=no more turbo

[boosteds14]

the recirculating bov has sound,
people can hear mine up to a quarter of a mile away.
the revhard is a 35mm so either get a tial or turbonetics. dont bother with the spring if u are getting a boost controller,
and the pipe bending is done by a muffler shop. u can tap the oil pan if you want by yourself. but if u have the time, drop the oil pan and weld it.
and go with nissan 300zx injectors if you want less then 12psi of boost. and u need to send the ecu outr to jim wolf., also there are gauges u need
1. A/F ratio
2. Boost
3. Fuel Pressure
4. Oil Pressure (optional)
5. EGT (optional)
6. Water temp (optional) you should have one already in the cluster.

[AceInHole]

I doubt the T04E is going to have an internal wastegate, so you'll need an aftermarket one. &nbsp;As far as srpings go... it should come with the wastegate, and possibly have an adjustment screw. &nbsp;if your using a boost controller, the boost controller actuates a solenoid that replaces the spring.

Recirculating BOV's recirculate boost pressure back into the intake before the compressor. &nbsp;This way, the compressor which is still spinning will draw that recirculated air, and not through the MAF, causing the MAF to read airflow when the throttle plate is closed, therefore creating a really rich A/F mixture, possibly stalling the engine. &nbsp;Not all BOV's recirculate, so you might want to make sure the BOV you get is adaptable to be used as a recirculating BOV. &nbsp;If you're not running a ton of boost (say... 7 and under), a Bosch unit for like $35 should be fine.

For fuel control, you could get away with using a rising rate fuel pressure regulator. &nbsp;Otherwise you'll need an ECU reprogram or a piggyback module like the Apexi AFC (the JWT ECU is definitely more reliable and easier to use... plug and play) along with larger injectors and a new MAF. &nbsp;I'm toying with the idea of regulating fuel by fuel pressure, using the stock ECU and a larger MAF and proportionally larger injectors (in theory a setup like this could work well... although not for the faint of heart i guess). &nbsp;

the cluster water temp isn't too accurate, although it probably isn't too much of a necessity to have an aftermarket one anyways (IIRC, the stock temp sensor is only really good around operating temp, which is what you need anyways).

Oil feed comes from the oil pressure sender... you'll need to T off of it (it's to the right of the oil filter). &nbsp;You tap the oil pan for the oil drain line, but to do this properly you'll need to take the oil pan off, which also includes dropping the front cross member.

Intercooler/intake piping could be done at a muffler shop pretty easily. &nbsp;I'd wonder if PVC would work for low boost though.

The EGT is a better idea... you'll have a more accurate picture of if your engine is running lean/ rich, especially if you also have the A/F meter, and if you're in danger of blowing something.

Oil pressure is always a good idea.... in the event a seal blows on the turbine or a hose disconnects, your oil pressure will drop, and you'll be fucked if you don't know it.

Fuel pressure isn't a necessity, although if you run a rising rate fuel pressure regulator, it's a good idea.

[BlackFox]

Depending on what boost you want to run you might also want to get 300zx fuel pump and filter.

The TiAL 35mm wastegate just bolts up to the end on the RevHard manifold, turbo goes on the top one. &nbsp;You should keep your spring in your wastegate or stuff will tweek if your EBC goes out. Get a dual solinoid (sp) unit. You can raise the boost above the wastegate spring pressure but you can't go below it without adjusting the wastegate itself. &nbsp;

I would recomend you to send your ECU to JWT. &nbsp;<img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/thumbs-up.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':thumbsup:'>

I would say get a boost guage so you know how much you're actually sending into the engine (depends on where you hook it up) and EGT gauge to keep that detinaiton in check (hopefully <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/crazy.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':crazy:'> ) Oil temp is also good, especially if you run your car hard for a while, want to make sure you don't overheat (might have to get an oil cooler, hehe more toys &nbsp;<img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/wow.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':0'> )

Have fun boosting, I'm building a 20psi KA24DE-T &nbsp;<img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/sly.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':sly:'>

[Jeff240sx]

</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (boosteds14 @ April 16 2002,4:14)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">dont bother with the spring if u are getting a boost controller,

u can tap the oil pan if you want by yourself. but if u have the time, drop the oil pan and weld it.

and go with nissan 300zx injectors if you want less then 12psi of boost. and u need to send the ecu outr to jim wolf.,</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>
But if the spring is 5.8psi minimum, can I run 5.8 psi on a basically stock, not fuel oriented, non-intercooled engine? &nbsp;How lean would I go? &nbsp;I have heard that they can go to 8 and hit dead lean, and 6 is acceptable. &nbsp;Is that true?

Why would I drop the pan and weld it? &nbsp;Weld what?

How large are the 300zx injectors? &nbsp;Side feed, plug and play, or do I have to modify something? &nbsp;And do I have to send the ecu to JWT to work with the injectors, or is that a recommendation for the setup in general?
thanks!
-Jeff

[Jeff240sx]

Heya. &nbsp;I still need help &nbsp;<img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/tounge.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=''>
-Jeff

[prInce]

Hey Jeff240sx, you got a KA24E or DE? &nbsp;can you please take pictures when you do the install? &nbsp;It'll be really helpful to us all that're goin to be install turbo in the near future.... thanks <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/smile.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=''>

[sykikchimp]

</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (Jeff240sx @ April 17 2002,02:17)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE"></span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (boosteds14 @ April 16 2002,4:14)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">dont bother with the spring if u are getting a boost controller,

u can tap the oil pan if you want by yourself. but if u have the time, drop the oil pan and weld it.

and go with nissan 300zx injectors if you want less then 12psi of boost. and u need to send the ecu outr to jim wolf.,</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>
But if the spring is 5.8psi minimum, can I run 5.8 psi on a basically stock, not fuel oriented, non-intercooled engine? How lean would I go? I have heard that they can go to 8 and hit dead lean, and 6 is acceptable. Is that true?

Why would I drop the pan and weld it? Weld what?

How large are the 300zx injectors? Side feed, plug and play, or do I have to modify something? And do I have to send the ecu to JWT to work with the injectors, or is that a recommendation for the setup in general?
thanks!
-Jeff</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>
I'm pretty sure the stock 270cc injectors are dead lean at 4psi. &nbsp;Also the ecu reconfigure is only a suggection. &nbsp;It makes things much easier. &nbsp;You &nbsp;can get away without it at low boost by getting the RRFPR. &nbsp;Also he is talking about welding is the Oil Return line connection into the oil pan to receive the oil from the turbo. &nbsp;Welding it isn't necessary though. &nbsp;You can do it by drilling a hole and connecting a outlet for a tube to connect too..

The 300zx injectors are 444cc I think.. &nbsp;I think they are plug and play, but require a retune? &nbsp;(someone needs to verify)

[LanceS13]

I'm pretty sure 300zx injectors are 370cc.

Just some very rough/estimate calculations on my trusty calculator (can I sound more like a nerdy engineer <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/tounge.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=''> ) says 270cc's are good for 5psi, 370cc's are good for 12psi, 444's are good for 17psi, 550's are good for 25psi, and 720's are good for 37psi. <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/wow.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':0'> &nbsp; Of course, this only for a rough idea...don't take it as gospel or anything.

[Aze85]

if your gonna get a greddy BOV get either the greddy type s or the blitz SSBOV. &nbsp;they sound soo tight. &nbsp;the blitz boost controller is one of the best. they did a comparison test and the blitz boost controller out performed all other boost controllers. You definately need a boost gauge, a/f, oil temp, feul pressure, oil pressure, and a water temp. Greddy makes the most accurate gauges.

[Jeff240sx]

</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (Aze85 @ April 17 2002,9:36)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">they sound soo tight.</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>
This is NOT why I am spending $3500 to turbo my car!

Anyway. &nbsp;Lance. &nbsp;Those math figures... is that dead lean, or the car can run at those numbers?

Also. &nbsp;Is an ECU necessary to run larger injectors? &nbsp;There are some 400cc injectors for sale, and before I buy them, I need to know. &nbsp;

Any ideas on how to hook up a makeshift intake tube till I buy an intercooler and have some pipes made? &nbsp;It'll only be like 2-3weeks tops. &nbsp;Older Supra Turbos use a radiator hose before and after the mini-intercooler. &nbsp;I was thinking about that. &nbsp;And I found a .2 psi spring in a tail 35mm wastegate, so I can go LOW boost till I set things up right <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/smile.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=''>

I really appreciate all the help. &nbsp;This is a ton of $$$, and I don't wanna buy crap, or break anything, but I still wanna play with my new toy once I get it!
-Jeff

[anthony240]

</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (Jeff240sx @ April 18 2002,12:45)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">This is NOT why I am spending $3500 to turbo my car!

Anyway. Lance. Those math figures... is that dead lean, or the car can run at those numbers?

Also. Is an ECU necessary to run larger injectors? There are some 400cc injectors for sale, and before I buy them, I need to know.

Any ideas on how to hook up a makeshift intake tube till I buy an intercooler and have some pipes made? It'll only be like 2-3weeks tops. Older Supra Turbos use a radiator hose before and after the mini-intercooler. I was thinking about that. And I found a .2 psi spring in a tail 35mm wastegate, so I can go LOW boost till I set things up right <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/smile.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=''>

I really appreciate all the help. This is a ton of $$$, and I don't wanna buy crap, or break anything, but I still wanna play with my new toy once I get it!
-Jeff</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>
Lance's numbers aren't that bad, but I would say those numbers are max.

Definitely need an ECU when running larger injectors, also get an MAF as well to match, Cobra or 300zx. Got to make sure the injectors fit too. If not, might have to get a custom fuel rail.

Have patience grasshopper, I suggest storing the parts, get it all together and install all at once.

Also, I was told that manual boost controllers are more stable and more accurate than electronic ones. TurboXS has one for $80.

Do you have an intercooler yet? Ebay has them once in a while. Get a Spearco, don't know the dimensions tho.

Glad to hear another KA-T comin up. I was gonna go that route, but I'm doing some other stuff that will also cost me $$$ (5-spd swap, Z32 brake upgrade, audio), then I'm getting some rims. I'm so jealous, I probably won't get to turbo for a long while. Good luck.

[rotaryknight]

Here's my 2 cents...my only experience with turbos is owning a 400 rwhp FD.

Ok wastegates have springs....and are controlled by springs. &nbsp; What a boost controller does is modify the vaccume going to the WG to keep the spring holding the WG shut until the desired boost is achieved. &nbsp;I dunno who thinks you remove the spring when you have a boost controller. &nbsp;The minimum boost you can get is the whatever the spring is rated at. &nbsp;Thus a 6 psi spring will boost no less than 6psi.

Get the Tail WG it is a great unit. &nbsp;DO NOT get the Delta gate that POS has a tendancy to freeze and create spikes. &nbsp;I'm not sure what flange the Rev Hard manifold have but i always recommend HKS. &nbsp;HKS does have their standard WG with a .4 bar spring. &nbsp;That should be enough.

As for the BOV most japan tuners will let it escape to atmosphere but you will bog because it messes up the mas air sensor. &nbsp;HKS does have a recirculation fitting part# 1421-FIT001 retail $12.00. &nbsp;

You also now have to decided on how you want your WG to run...do you want to dump to atmosphere which is better for performance but gets loud at WOT...or you can have it piped back in to your DP.

Also with any turbo upgrade or add on I suggest getting a fuel pressure regulator and a fuel pump. &nbsp;A 300zx pump is fine and you can go with the HKS or SX fuel pressure regulator.

Also your motor being handle boost is also dependant of the CFM. &nbsp;For example a stock turbo FD at 8psi will move a certain amount of air while a FD with a T04S at 8psi moves a ton of air compared to that. &nbsp;You bolt the T04S to a stock motor you will blow.

You guys are lucky 240sx are soooo much easier to work on than a FD.

[Jeff240sx]

Anyone know what year Cobra MAF works? &nbsp;I know '93 does, cuz thats what someone here had. &nbsp;But will a '97 or '98? &nbsp;Cuz they are on Ebay right now <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/smile.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=''>
(buy them and I'll kill you&#33<img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/wink.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=''>
-Jeff

[Jeff240sx]

Another question.
I'm deciding between some 550cc and 400cc injectors. &nbsp;I dont think there will be a problem with getting a top feed fuel rail from JWT, but heres my question:

Are all fuel injectors the same size? &nbsp;Will basically any injector fit into my injector holder? &nbsp;(I really dont know a damn thing about injectors, or a fuel system.)
-Jeff

[9591]

You're right, that's a lotta questions!

First off, nobody seems to have mentioned this, but a T3/T4 might be hard to fit with a Revhard manifold. I have a T4 on a Revhard, and it just barely clears the brake master cylinder. A T3 turbine plainly wouldn't work. This is with a '95, though; maybe S13s are different? Are we talking about S13s, here? And are you *sure* it's a T3/T4? XS Engineering doesn't seem to know the difference, so maybe you don't, either.

A Tial 35mm will bolt to the Revhard manifold. The larger Tials have a 4-bolt flange and won't work, as well as most of the other big names. Turbonetics' Deltagate will fit, but not their Racegate. Even though the Racegate has a 2-bolt flange, the bolt spacing is different. The Deltagate has a bad reputation, but I've *heard* that the problem was fixed. Whether that's true or not, I don't know, but my Deltagate has been working fine for the past 2 years (almost).

Some BOVs are designed to recirculate, some aren't, and some can do both. It's possible to use a non-recirculating BOV (that is, vented), but that'll require some non-standard tweaking. Since you don't care about the sound, don't sweat it, just recirculate.

My HKS EVC works fine, as near as I can tell. I don't find it particularly "intuitive" when I want to change something (not often), but the instructions are in English, so I can always figure it out. If I had it to do over again, I'd try to find something else that worked as well, but wasn't so hard for me to remember how to change things ('course, my memory ain't as good as it used to be, your mileage may vary).

The stock fuel system isn't going to work for too much over stock HP. That's just the way auto makers design things. There's a bit of leeway, but not much. Using a rising-rate fuel pressure regulator (RRFPR), also known as a fuel management unit (FMU), will allow the fuel injectors to flow more than their rating, thus supporting more HP. But there's a limit, and I like to think that 7psi of boost is it.

Fuel pumps: my XS Engineering kit, which uses an FMU for fuel control, and was only supposed to go to 5psi (when I bought it; they've changed that to 7psi, now; odd that there dyno results haven't changed), came with an unknown fuel pump, with hardware to make it fit. The kit instructions, however, made no mention of the pump, which leads to the conclusion that it was a new addition, which further leads to the conclusion that the stock pump had problems. Those are my conclusions; you should make your own.

Oil pan doesn't have to be welded, that's just the best way. It *will* have to be drilled, though, and that's really something that should be done with the pan off the engine (metal flakes 'n stuff). But it *can* be done with it installed, if the person doing it understands the risks, takes precautions, and just plain knows what they're doing. Do you fit that profile?

Injectors from '95-'96 300zxtt will fit, physically and electronically (I can make up words, can't I?). Maybe some others, too. But they flow 370cc/min, and the stock 240 ECU doesn't know that, so it'll tell them to open for the same length of time as the stock ones, and, of course, more-than-stock amounts of fuel will be sprayed. This may be all well and good at some particular RPM/load situation, but it'll probably suck everywhere else. It'll definately suck at idle. You'll need something to properly control them, such as an AFC, standalone ECU, or reprogrammed ECU (JWT).

The numbers LanceS13 posted are probably right (I'm just assuming), but they'd be for stock fuel pressure. Higher pressure (as provided by an FMU) would allow for higher boost. As a "for an example", I'm running 7psi on stock injectors with an FMU and an upgraded (I presume, since I don't know what it actually is) fuel pump. No apparent problems.

As I write this essay, I'm reading thru the replies to your original questions, so I came across the HKS WG suggestion. Once again, it won't fit on the Revhard manifold. BOV can be vented, but should be recirculated for ease of tuning. WG can either be recirculated or vented, your choice, but venting saves HP, is easier, and isn't really very loud (guess what I recommend?).

I haven't looked much into MAFS, so I don't know which Cobras work.

(Sheesh, take a break, 9591)

OK &nbsp;<img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/biggrin.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=''>

[9591]

</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (AceInHole @ April 16 2002,3<!--emo&<img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/wow.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':0'>)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">Intercooler/intake piping could be done at a muffler shop pretty easily. I'd wonder if PVC would work for low boost though.</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>
The piping on the "hot" side of the IC can get up to over 200F; PVC definately won't work there. The cold side is obviously not as hot, but probably still pretty warm, and I wouldn't trust PVC there, either.

BTW, I think you brain-farted and got the recirculating/non-recirculating BOV stuff backwards in an earlier post. Either that, or *I* did (NO, that's impossible. Phhffft; whoops).

edit: yep, that was me, not you. I coulda swore somebody screwed it up. I'll be checking, and be back in a minute.

edit: I'm back. Two of the first four replies had the noisy-recirculated BOV misinformation. I don't have a clue why I thought it was you. Sorry.

[boosteds14]

NOTE: the cobra maf is from a 1993, not sure what other years goes with that.

and the maf is used if u are going above 12psi-quoted from Ben at Jim Wolf Tech.

the 300zx injectors are 370cc and max out at 12psi

[Jeff240sx]

</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (9591 @ April 18 2002,06:04)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">And are you *sure* it's a T3/T4?

Using a rising-rate fuel pressure regulator (RRFPR), also known as a fuel management unit (FMU), will allow the fuel injectors to flow more than their rating, thus supporting more HP. But there's a limit, and I like to think that 7psi of boost is it.

WG can either be recirculated or vented, your choice, but venting saves HP, is easier, and isn't really very loud (guess what I recommend?).</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>
Yup. &nbsp;Sure its a t3/04e.

What rising-rate fuel pressure regulator are you running? &nbsp;This sounds like the way to go until I get $$$ for injectors and ecu reprogramming.
And I'm guessing you recommend venting it.

Finally, are all injectors gonna fit, assuming I have a top feed fuel rail? &nbsp;Like Denso550cc top feed, or HKS 400cc ?feed
Will they fit?
Thanks,
Jeff

[BlackFox]

Do you get gas leaking into the cabin of the car with the wastegate venting straight down the engine bay? I don't want to be sucking gas when i'm sitting at a light <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/crazy.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':crazy:'>

[240racer]

if I were to use 440 cc/min inj. would I need to upgrade the fuel pump. I don't plan on changing the fuel pressure. &nbsp;I think the reason the XS kit had a different fuel pump was because they changed the fuel rail pressure with the FMU. &nbsp;Also, the "upgraded" fuel pump 9591 got with his XS kit is probably the walbro fuel pump I have been reading a lot of places, especially domestic turbo sites for some stupid reason, that they buy these pumps with lots of other names on them, but they are all the same thing. &nbsp;Anyway, they are about $100 and available just about anywhere. &nbsp;I was just thinking of using the AFC to control the 440's with either a new MAF or a ported stock one. &nbsp;Has anybody tried that. &nbsp;It's kind of like what ace in the hole mentioned with raising the amount of air and fuel proportionatly.
thanks
Adam

[sKyLiNeR]

i have a question , what is the dissadvantege of having a non-reciculating BOV because i read somewere that you can get better performance.
correct me if im wrong

</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote </td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">As for the BOV most japan tuners will let it escape to atmosphere but you will bog because it messes up the mas air sensor. HKS does have a recirculation fitting part# 1421-FIT001 retail $12.00
Some BOVs are designed to recirculate, some aren't, and some can do both. It's possible to use a non-recirculating BOV (that is, vented), but that'll require some non-standard tweaking. Since you don't care about the sound, don't sweat it, just recirculate.,


thanks

myron



sorry dont know much how that qoute thing works

[Jeff240sx]

Upon getting larger injectors, I have read in more than a few places that I will get an erratic idle, even with an ECU reprogramming by JWT. &nbsp;
Which brings me to my next question. &nbsp;Would an Apex'i S-AFC work to provide the extra fuel I need? &nbsp;How would I adjust the ammount of fuel per 500rpm increments? &nbsp;I'm guessing dyno time. &nbsp;One of the selling points of the S-AFC is that it eliminates the erratic idle. &nbsp;
People have mentioned a RRFPR. &nbsp;Would this eliminate the need for one? &nbsp;Also, would this allow my stock injectors to dump more fuel till I buy the 550cc injectors? &nbsp;Or should I just go JWT ecu?
-Jeff

[boosteds14]

jeff- that is totally correct, i have 72lbs injectors and yes the idle is irratic &nbsp;plus with the cams i got but it is &nbsp;nothing u cant complain about. i would have to say that for practical purpose, and if u want to go with low boost, bet the 370cc injectors with the jim wolf ecu upgrade and if u want to get the upgraded fuel pump, the pump is not necessary at low bboost settings-6psi

jeff