How to add traction in 30 minutes or less *Approved*

[AceInHole]

So, I have wheels that are the wrong offset. They're 18x12 with 6.75" backspacing, but I really need 8" backspacing. This means the wheels stick out slightly, in addition to having a massive overall rolling diameter. With the Georgia SCCA Tour event this weekend, I needed a quick fix.

So, sawzall in hand, I went outside to f(*&# some s*(& up.

The first step is to plan something. I think I ignored this step on the driver's side, but that's half of why I'm writing this: so you guys don't mess up (because I care. I really do). I traced an outline of what I wanted (dirt and grime makes for an easy sketch) and went to work. For the fender cut, you want to take only the outer fender skin after your initial notch.


The next cut should be right along the lip of the fender on the inside (tub) section, so that you end up with as much of the tub as possible. I then cut slots into the tub section so I could hammer it up:


Ignore the bad cut. It'll be covered later, if and when you get real flares or an overfender. Just make sure that you've got room for your tires. Not cutting into tires that cost some $300 each would be a good thing, and with the massive overall diameter, you'll need clearance to get the car down to a proper ride height. Once it's all clear, hammer it up a bit more since bumps and suspension joint-flex may bring the tire up higher than a jack will. After that, weld or rivet the inner fender back to the outer fender skin. Here's where the debate comes into play: people say that the outer fender is structural, and people say it isn't. I'd rather be safe than sorry, so mine is welded up, and filled in with window sealant.

Once that's accomplished, undo the shock mount and mount your wheel. Use a jack to bring the wheel up to where you think your suspension might go. After that, set the fender lip to where you want it (ideally clearing the tire) and tack it in place a few times.


This is completely an un-necessary step if you're going to add a fender flare or over-fender. I just did it because I didn't have a fender flare or over-fender at the time, and really, who cares how it looks if it's not going fast? For now I didn't want a jagged edge on the side of the car. I suppose it wouldn't look horrible if I had panel bonded the wheel arch back on, and molded stuff in place, but it's all coming off for 50mm over-fenders.

The final step is to proceed to stomp cones:


-PJ