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Originally Posted by pinedamatthew482
hey every ive saved about 1500 and im not sure wether to buy a ka and build internals and go kat or go sr im looking for the less expensive and less probematic please give your opinions thanks
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you should buy some books, possibly do some more reading.
Quote:
Originally Posted by dorkidori_s13
hell if i were in your situation, i would save as much as possible and just flat out buy a brand new FRS... but thats just because im old and jaded! 
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thats not called old and jaded, thats called being wise about what you buy. the OP is young and lacks experience. time to hit the books and learn, or buy something newer and stock and leave it alone.
Quote:
Originally Posted by fliprayzin240sx
Toss in a lighter main pulley, makes the KA more rev happy...
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lighter pulley only makes your wallet lighter. it is a colossal waste
Quote:
Originally Posted by R33E8
And more likely to spin bearings due to the harmonics from the crankshaft no longer being dampened.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Drift_FX
use ATI pulley or stock..... never use anything else unless your trying to destroy a motor......
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^ correct. engine harmonics need to be dampened.
Quote:
Originally Posted by brndck
This is a commonly repeated MYTH. You will NOT rev a KA or sr high enough to get into the 2nd range frequencies that cause damage. I6 engines DO run into this problem due to their 2nd range harmonics being at a much lower rpm. I challenge anyone to show PROOF of a KA or SR taking a shit due to a solid crank pulley.
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no one needs to show you proof. its your car, do whatever you like. there are plenty of whitepapers on resonant frequencies, its common sense. you're making it seem like a non-dampened pulley is some special work of art. the factory could easily make one, but instead they make them dampened... and for a very good reason. if you chose to run a billet pulley, more power to you. ATI already has my money on a few of my cars.. dope product.
Quote:
Originally Posted by dorkidori_s13
Aftermarket LSDs work A LOT better than the OEM Helical/Viscous units. Both OEM units are not full limited slips, but theyre both a thousand times better than the stock open diff.
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your post is too damn vague... "better" is subjective. torsen/helical are the ultimate for a street car: quiet, no service needed and they are torque-sensing so they vary on how much torque is applied. worth every penny.
this thread needs to be locked. what, did we warp back to 2000? this topic has been beating to shit millions of times already....