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Old 09-11-2015, 08:59 PM   #11
SilviaHI
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gabefromcali View Post
Nice. I just got into the same scenario as you but with a zenki. Good luck I'm rooting for ya!
Haha thanks man, you should start a thread too!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kingtal0n View Post
pressure clean the bay and engine. Cover the igniter, CAS, and all oil ports.
Use some kind of degreaser (purple power or something) and a parts washer brush for the edges/corners. If you intend to paint you will also want to wipe it down with some powerful solvent before painting. Usually there is a "prep wipe" to use while the car is sitting in the paint booth right before you spray it. It sounds like you intend to rattle can it though, so do not overlook this prep step.
BIG RAJAH!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kingtal0n View Post
Also if you intend to run the head without a valve-job (among other maint.) you will at least want to pull the intake and clean (use brake cleaner and paper towels) all the carbon soot coating the ports. There is also something the V8 guys are doing, that is, using crushed walnut shells to clean the valves, if you are interested I can provide some links, it can be done using all harbor freight materials and makes the valves look almost new again.
I opened up the intake manifold and to my surprise, it was oil free I think its just right behind the throttle body. But the exhaust side of the head does look dirty.. New head gasket is and valve cover gasket is going be another big chunk of change my student wallet doesn't want to pay LOL I'm thinking I'll throw in a new intake manifold gasket and call it a day, what do you think?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kingtal0n View Post
For your oil outlet (to turbo from block) this is a common issue when you have over-used (about 5 tries is all we seem to get) the threads. A long time ago the thing to do was heli-coil it and pray none of the shaving from your drill get into the engine. I hope yours does not come to this.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Kingtal0n View Post
If you can manage, use the supplied braided hose banjo bolt in the existing threads if all all possible. Do not over tighten them. Better to have it leak a little bit on startup, then snug it tight, than to OVER-tighten it up-front, and later have to remove it for some reason damaging the threads.
Got it

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kingtal0n View Post
For your shifter, I recommend an OEM shifter, brand new shifter bushing (very important and cheap), and a new seal for the boot. A very common problem with SR trans is the fluid will fly out of the shifter hole and coat everything, giving the constant smell of gear oil in the car. To prevent this, be extra careful while installing your fresh new shifter seal(s). I actually made a second seal out of high temp rubber hose (rated at 450*F for gasoline) to help seal up that hole, since it is such a common problem for fluid to escape.
Yes I'm missing that rubber boot, I wonder if the OEM one fits the aftermarket short shifter.. I would be open to getting a totally new shifter assembly but my wallet does this, LOL. On a good note, I believe I found the culprit! The bushing that connects the shaft ball thing to the transmission has a lot of play. I'm gonna try to replace this and see how it goes.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Kingtal0n View Post
It does look like your trans is missing bolts. But I feel like this is the least of your worries right now, judging by everything else.
I was missing FOUR!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kingtal0n View Post
You need all new exhaust gaskets for the turbo re-install. I am not sure when you are planning this, however, to repeat what I mentioned earlier, you will want the OEM locking tabs, OEM manifold gasket, and you will probably want to buy new studs and nuts for the manifold as well. Also, keep in mind the mating surface between manifold/turbo will require a STRONG SIGNIFICANT cleaning, it took me almost an hour with a wire wheel (a big, high speed industrial wheel) to slowly work the carbon buildup off the surface. You would be surprised how much is there, and how it can look like metal but is in fact a carbon sheet.
Thanks for the tips, will do for sure! And yes, I already got all OEM new exhaust side gaskets and I'm about to order all new nuts, studs and bolts for exhaust side stuff and transmission.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kingtal0n View Post
Annnd.. that oil return line needs to go. Thats what we call in the business an engine death hose. You want a high quality braided piece of hose for the oil return duty.
Got it! Kingtal0n, thanks so much for taking the time to help me. It is extremely helpful and also helps me unmeasurably condense my reading time.

And thanks to others for the words of encouragment. It really does help when taking on something like this LOL

And on to the transmission! Hows it look?



Looks like hot spots?








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