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Tech Talk Technical Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars |
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#3 |
Zilvia Addict
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Spark plug wires and spark plugs.
Check your fuses while you are at it. If your headlights turn on your battery is fine.
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#4 |
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Well let's see here. No spark. Are you able to crank the engine at least? Is this the stock motor or a swapped in replacement? Mileage would be somewhat helpful too. You need fuel, spark, and compression for a working motor. So far you have told us your missing spark. Do what Murphy said and look at the FSM.
-Joe |
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#5 | |
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Quote:
Carefully reread his original post. You will notice that he asked a question. Forgive me for not completely explaining things. 1. Leave the key out of the ignition completely 2. Flip the headlight switch. 3. If the battery is good the headlights will work....since they can work off of the battery power as well as the alternator. He changed the cap and rotor.....what next....natually would be change the spark plugs and wires. After that check the position of the cap to make sure the timing is not off. Checking the fuses is the bottom of basic troubleshooting. Your answer did not exactly make sense either. "Look in the FSM...." How can he look in the FSM if he is not exactly sure what to look for. The FSM does not get into every possible problem. From the looks of his original post all we know is he replaced a two things and has not checked for the basic stuff.
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#6 | |
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Aside from all that the spark plug wires and spark plugs need to be replaced just like the coil and rotor. Whether you think so or not I giving information that may lead to his problem...which is what the fsm would do.
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#7 |
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Everyone does not have a voltmeter or access to one.
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#8 |
its a stock motor and its cranking . it had spark and then once we pluged the wires in and tryed to start it, it didnt start we ttryed to see if it had spark again and it didnt
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#9 |
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not to completely interject, but you both are sort of off topic here...
Headlights can run off of low amps <---- true Bad battery = voltage + amperage drop due to inability to produce either with the electrolyte and lead plating combo <---- true Dead battery = amperage drop because of whatever reason <---- true I am certain that we can assume that his battery IS good however, or at least sufficient because he knows he isnt getting spark, which usually means that the motor is cranking over, fuel is going into the cylinders, but there is no ignition. Now: Spark plugs / wires determine spark strength... however if the wires are severed or so completely corroded that they have a rediculous amount of resistance, it might not jump the gap. 99.9% of the time you can rule this out though by simply testing it with another wire. If all 4 wires are crapped out, probability suggests that it is further up the line. So.. go to the dizzy. Take the cap and rotor off.. if things are making contact you should atleast have some spark... the quality of it is negotiable, but it should exist assuming your actual dizzy is not the problem. You stated you changed it already before checking anything else out (bad move on your part...), so go to the coil: Check the resistance on the input and output of the coil (I believe.. I would have to refer back to the fsm to be sure.... =X)... and make sure they are within specs... you said you changed that anyways (doh)... so onward... Check continuity through your harness to the coil.. Keep tracking it back. you will find your problem. Dont buy parts until you know what is wrong with it. You are just spending your money. with the 100+ dollars you used to buy used parts... or 300+ dollars you spent for new ones, you could have bought a $45 volt meter like the ones at harbor freight... or even a 9 dollar analogue (these are actually useful for testing o2 sensors) at any cheap parts store and gone through it yourself.
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#10 |
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1. remove one of the spark plug wires from the spark plug.
2. get old or "extra" spark pug and plug it into the wire. 3. hold spark plug over valve cover. (do not shock yourself) 4. crank engine (a friend, girlfriend, or neighbor really helps here) do you see a spark or hear "crackling"? repeat this on all of the plug wires. this will ultimately determine if you don't have spark.
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#11 |
i never bought anthing jsut changed them with parts i knew that work so just check the wire from the coil to anywhere else cause the last time i drove it i turned it off and wen i tryed to start it, it wouldnt do anything but crank over and it was sputerring kinda bad so i thought it would be the fuel pump but it wasnt
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#13 |
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Well, you check continuity in the harness to make sure the wires dont have any problems in the actual wiring itself... then you start checking for power before, and after the coil, ignition module, ecu, dizzy.. etc. To sum it up in a nut shell.
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#16 |
i put the motor to dead top center and put the marks lined up on the dizzy and tred to start it and we had spark for a second and then we put everything back together and tryed to start it and it didnt do anything and we tryed to see if we had spark again and then we didnt
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#17 |
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If you don't have access to a voltmeter then you probably shouldn't screw with a no spark problem if it is anything more than a cap&rotor problem because anything beyond that REQUIRES a voltmeter. I have been a mechanic for 5 years now and have worked on my dad's formula atlantic cars for 10 years and I have never seen plugs or wires cause a no-spark condition. Misfire yes, no-spark no.
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#20 |
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First check for power to the coil. No power then refer to a wiring diagram and start with fuses. If it has power then check the coil itself on both the primary and secondary circuits, a fsm will detail this procedure. Other than that the only other things that can cause no spark would be the cam sensor, which is in the distributor, or the ignition module. Both of these are more complicated to test than the coil so you will definitely need a fsm. The cam sensor may have a resistance spec but i'm pretty sure the module does not. If you can't find a fsm then go to a local shop and ask them if they can print you test procedures via alldata or mitchell. If you have a fax then I could send u some info on monday, but PM me if you wanna do that.
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#21 |
switched the ecu ,coil with transistor ,distributer and the shit still hase no spark ! i ran the codes it says the ignition singal is bad . and its weird it ran fine then i shut it off and tried to start it and it didnt start so i disconected then reconected the ecu and it started but i had to gas it and then it died and never started agian!????
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#22 |
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Gotta be a bad wire man you changed pretty much everything. Use the wiring diagram I sent u and test for continuity across the wires, especially those that go to the ECM.
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#24 |
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i didnt read anything here so im ask
have u tried going to TDC with crank and pulley...could be the reason for no spark... another simple check could be making sure ur ecu is plug nice and firm to the tail of the harness did u check the starter module ( connection above the ign coil) u can get it checked at autozone hope fully that can help |
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#26 |
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You need to start back at the beginning at re-install the dist. Reset the crank at TDC and make sure the dist. align marks are set. Then when you install the rotor, make sure you have it installed pointing towards cyl. #1.
Where are you NOT getting spark from? Do you have spark to the coil but not the wires? Really guys this diag. is not that hard.
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#27 |
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another thing would be that he didnt specify ( exept for it being a stock motor) is it a rebuilt to OEM motor...if so another thing ur gonna have to check are the cams positioning...making sure there also ready when things are set to TDC
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#28 | |
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#30 |
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The "camshaft position sensor" is attached to the Dist. housing on the S13/S14. The "crank position sensor" is only used in S14s and is attached to the bellhousing. FYI
He would be throwing an 11 and 21 codes respectively if he was having a problem with the CMPS. If that was the case, then you could assume a problem with either the cam positions themselves or more than likely a faulty sensor. Do we have ANY codes pulled yet?
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