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#1 |
Zilvia Member
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![]() I have just finished my motor swap in to Datsun 510. The only thing is that i dont have a really good understanding on how to tune this motor, or for that fact even getting runng good. I am new to motors and am looking for somebody to help me getting this thing running good. IM willing to pay for the services so if you know someone with the skills that i dont have please let me know. I have been working on getting this car running for a bout 2 yease and this is the last step
![]() Im Located in Escondido ca. (north san diego) |
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#2 |
Zilvia FREAK!
![]() Join Date: May 2006
Location: San Diego
Age: 39
Posts: 1,403
Trader Rating: (19)
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1st post huh. Welcome to Zilvia. List your symptoms, and we will try to help you through it. Their is also a tech section where you might be able to find some answers to your questions. Good luck.
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#3 | |
Post Whore!
![]() Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Southern California...where i stretch out haters like a bad thong
Age: 41
Posts: 7,371
Trader Rating: (40)
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Quote:
so you have a 510, you swapped a sr20 into it...and you're not into Nissan motors? ![]()
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![]() things may come to those who wait, but only the things left by those who HUSTLE CLICK HERE FOR MY BLOG |
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#4 |
Zilvia Member
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Yes first post. Thanks!
Well here is what is happening, it starts up every time perfect but when i give it alittle gas, i woud say close to 3,000 rpm? It starts sputtering really bad, like its just cutting out bad.. I tried hooking up my tach last night but i couldnt get it to work, to see where its actually having this problem. I was thinking a vac leak but i couldnt find any? thats the main problem right now. Also, is it a must to run an o2 sensor? Well i shouldnt say new to Nissan motors i guess, i am just used to working on the older motors, L series. Nothing EFI. Anyways thanks for the help. |
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#6 |
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Salt Lake City, Utah
Age: 42
Posts: 37
Trader Rating: (0)
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If you're pretty sure it's at 3000 rpm that's Classic SR MAF issue. check your wiring and connection and try again.
Are you running a stock SR ECU and stock MAF? Are they matched? You're not trying to run an s13 MAF on an s14 ECU? If you need some help I might be able too give you a hand. |
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#7 |
Post Whore!
![]() Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Southern California...where i stretch out haters like a bad thong
Age: 41
Posts: 7,371
Trader Rating: (40)
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Feedback Score: 40 reviews
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yeah sounds like the MAF if its consistent with 3k RPM...
__________________
![]() things may come to those who wait, but only the things left by those who HUSTLE CLICK HERE FOR MY BLOG |
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#8 |
Zilvia Member
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Cool thanks for the great help! I think it maybe the MAF sensor. I did cut the wire to extend it so maybe i goofed up? Shit i dont think you can cut those wires tho, cuz it has like an insulated metal wire running around the innser wires. Anyone know of this? Damn!
Also i am running a stock computer and it is the org. MAF, but the computer is not the one that came with the motor. Its one i bout on here cuz, i guess i fried the org. one. Thats at least what this dude i payed to wire my car did (which by the way he did a wack job) Thanks again for the help ![]() |
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#13 | |
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Salt Lake City, Utah
Age: 42
Posts: 37
Trader Rating: (0)
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Quote:
Yes. you can cut those wires. In fact you must if you're going to swap a RHD SR into a LHD S chassis. The insulation you cut through is shielding to reduce signal interference coming from the MAF. Time for some basic troubleshooting, but it sounds like you might be in a bit over your head if you're already not sure about the wiring. Pull the codes off the ECU. Even though this guide is for KA, the checking procedure is the same, and I'm 99% sure the codes are the same. KA24DEvelopment.com :: ECU Diagnostics If your ECU is throwing any codes, begin troubleshooting there. If your getting code 55 (everything functional), it's time to begin digging deeper. Check for Vacuum leaks, or any vacuum lines that you may have forgotten to plug or install properly. Assuming no Vacuum leaks check your MAF wiring. If i remember right... as labeled on the MAF Harness plug B - White - 12v switched power C - Black - Ground D - B/W - Signal At idle, with the car warmed up the signal voltage should bounce around between .8 and 1.5 volts. If your getting a constant 12v or ground at your signal wire, your wiring may be messed up. After a few minutes with the s14 SR FSM, if your still not sure about your wiring you can verify that wires are hooked up correctly like this: 1. With the ignition on, and engine off, and MAF harness disconnected, you should get battery voltage at pin B of the MAF harness. 2. ignition off, disconnect the ECU harness connector. you should be seeing continuity between pin 26 on the ECU harness, and pin C on the MAF harness with your multimeter 3. ignition off and ECU harness still disconnected, you should be seeing continuity between pin 27 on the ECU harness, and pin D on the MAF harness. -- Good luck. I know it says I'm in Salt Lake, but I recently moved to SD. If you're confused about any of this and have the extra cash, it might be time to head to someone who knows what they're doing... unfortunately since I moved here a month ago I don't know anyone in the car scene at all yet. Wiring issues can be tricky. If you're getting funky ground problems make sure the 2 grounds at the firewall side of the top of intake manifold are clean and in good repair. The ECU has a big 62 sticker on it, correct? And your not trying to use a Z32 5 pin MAF with this stock ECU, correct? |
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