anyone know of a good write up on hockey puck mounts?

[Bigsyke]

Originally Posted by Verbal_S13

Sorry but, your an idiot and your logic is proof. They are discs of vulcanized rubber. They give a little under load and are rock solid. Much better than filling a rubber mount with (i think he said polyurethane), that is ghetto.

People have been using them for solid mounts, probably before you were born... and for a lot cheaper than your "high dollar, performance motor mounts" I could find better ways to utilize my money, than on purdy red "prothane" type mounts.

Are you fuckin serious right now? Expose the pucks to some heat, say the drivers side and it crumbles like a cookie. Poly is actually more durable than vulcanized rubber. People have been ghetto rigging shit since anybody was born, both options are clearly ghetto as shit.

For 1 the hockey pucks will fall apart. Also they dont have the correct height, and the correct bolt offset. You have minimal surface contact via the bolt/washers. The setup leaves soo much room for play. with the pucks, the engines weight is the only thing keeping the engine steady. How can you calculate the apex of the engine/tranny to the diff with a set of pucks, and know your not wearing out the joints on a 1pc driveshaft?

JGS polymounts are really the only option out there, $120 and hardly vibrate

[redsx13]

Originally Posted by Bigsyke

Are you fuckin serious right now? Expose the pucks to some heat, say the drivers side and it crumbles like a cookie. Poly is actually more durable than vulcanized rubber. People have been ghetto rigging shit since anybody was born, both options are clearly ghetto as shit.

For 1 the hockey pucks will fall apart. Also they don't have the correct height, and the correct bolt offset. You have minimal surface contact via the bolt/washers. How can you calculate the apex of the engine/tranny to the diff with a set of pucks, and know your not wearing out the joints on a 1pc drive-shaft. with the pucks, the engines weight is the only thing keeping the engine steady. ?

JGS polymounts are really the only option out there, $120 and hardly vibrate

1. do you have proof they will fall apart? vulcanized rubbers construction is farily heat resistant.
2. "the engines weight is the only thing keeping the engine steady." how are they any worse than sloppy stock bushings?
3."The setup leaves soo much room for play" where? I see a reduced amount of play.
4.How can you calculate the apex of the engine/tranny to the diff with a set of pucks, and know your not wearing out the joints on a 1pc driveshaft" because the joints on a driveshaft are made to bend. think of the driveshaft on a car/truck with a live axle, they have a similar construction and move up and down constantly as the suspension compresses/depresses.

don't get me wrong, i don't have these mounts, i have peak performance cnc mounts, so im not trying to stick up for them, im simply weighing out the facts.

[charlie321]

I personally have made my own hockey puck motor mounts February this year.
I decided to try it because no one else nearby has them, and i was seriously on a budget.

The cost was around $28 for everything.
-4 Hockey Pucks (NHL Legit ones!)
-2 Big Diameter Washers
-1 Grade 8 Bolt
-1 Grade 8 Washer

I ended up using 2 on each side. This ultimately lowers your motor about an inch at my guess. The oil pan is sitting much lower than the sway bar now, which i'm getting a skid plate from PBM for. I would use 2 and a half pucks to make it more accurate.

Review? I love them, They are very solid, and i'm loving my throttle response(better than half broken oem ones). As far as vibrations go, i only notice mild shaking at warmed up Idle, like 7-9 hundred rpm. While i'm driving, i really cannot tell that i'm using solid mounts.

I personally would recommend for anyone thats looking for a cheap and easy way to get solid reliable mounts. I've had these for a 2-3 months already, and they've seen 3 track events. I'm very happy with them, no sign of wear so far.

If you don't like them in the long run, you've only spent $30 bucks, so if you ask me. "Why not?" is my answer to you. I'm sure you'll like them. Do it!

[Verbal_S13]

Originally Posted by Bigsyke

Are you fuckin serious right now? ....... How can you calculate the apex of the engine/tranny to the diff with a set of pucks, and know your not wearing out the joints on a 1pc driveshaft?

JGS polymounts are really the only option out there, $120 and hardly vibrate

Now I must ask.... are you fuckin serious? Have you ever done anything aside from pick up a magazine? It's called a pinion angle... you measure it before and after. I use stainless sleeves... so if it did fall apart, it would sit on the sleeve. Quit being a sheep.

[Bigsyke]

Originally Posted by Verbal_S13

Now I must ask.... are you fuckin serious? Have you ever done anything aside from pick up a magazine? It's called a pinion angle... you measure it before and after. I use stainless sleeves... so if it did fall apart, it would sit on the sleeve. Quit being a sheep.

I am fuckin serious, stainless sleeves dont mean jack fucking shit. I have 4 different hockey puck setups sitting in a fucking bin right now. My guess is none of you have noticed the added wear on the tranny mount, esp if your using a peak performance one. The inside bearings that give the tranny mount the proper squish will warp to hell with pucks. Took 1 trip, with 1/2 torque because the different non correct angle the engine sat because these cheap ass fucking hockey pucks.

So you spent $$$ on sleeves, yet still in the back of your mind, you have some ghetto rigged bolt going through a set of pucks, that doesnt even fit flush with the front crossmember/engine, thus requiring washers, or just being plain ghetto.

These were plain awfull, and the vibration was horrid. JGS or filling your OE mounts are 100x better. Fill your mounts.

[GSXRJJordan]

Originally Posted by Bigsyke

These were plain awfull, and the vibration was horrid. JGS or filling your OE mounts are 100x better. Fill your mounts.

Quoted for MF'n truth. /Thread.