Painting polish lip, any special prep required?

[C-unit]

I am looking to paint my wheels, they have polished lip and my painter told me that I need special prep to get the anodizing off which is kinda expensive. Anyone has any idea if what I need to do to have the paint stick and not chipping in couple months?

These are the wheels and I am looking to have the lip painted Gloss black.


PS: This is not a discussion thread about polished lip vs painted lip. So if you think I shouldn't paint my wheels, you can keep that to yourself. Thanks

[spooled240]

i would clean it really good from the impurities like oils, etc. and just spray it. Then if you ever change you mind you could just strip the paint off and have a polished lip again.

I'm guessing the professional way would be to remove the barrels and have them powdercoated?

[s14unimog]

anodizing? where? Just split them apart and get everything sand blasted, prep, and paint.

[C-unit]

i was told that the paint might not stick since the finish was too smooth. I thought of powder coating it but it will burn off all the silicone. I am just looking to take the face off and painted half of the barrel.

The lip is anodized on top of the polish.

I saw someone did it to a set of meister here. Wondering what he did to the wheel..

[MavericStephenc]

Originally Posted by C-unit

i was told that the paint might not stick since the finish was too smooth. I thought of powder coating it but it will burn off all the silicone. I am just looking to take the face off and painted half of the barrel.

The lip is anodized on top of the polish.

I saw someone did it to a set of meister here. Wondering what he did to the wheel..

wouldn't you sand the barrel after disassembling it to give a "rough" surface to then prime, paint and clear it. then but the center piece back in? shouldnt be too difficult.

[C-unit]

I was told to do that but my painter said sanding/scuffing is not enough?? Thanks for the advice, I guess i'll take it to sandblasting after i take it apart.

[MavericStephenc]

if thats not enough. then hit it with 180 grit. the object is to get the polish off. If that doesn't work bead blast it.

remeber.

scuff/ sand with 180
get all polish off
etching primer
wet sand
paint
wet sand
clear
wet sand

I paint too

[C-unit]

^ Thanks for the Help! painted wheels here i come!!!

[95KA-Turbo]

Definitely make sure whoever you get to blast them uses something that will not dent the metal.

If you can find someone who uses crushed walnut shells or baking soda it would be ideal (I am pretty sure those will be safe on the metal)


The silicone is super easy to replace...I will do a write up when I redo my BBSs. In the mean time you just want to make sure you scuff up the powder coat/paint where the lip and barrel meet - where the silicone is going to go. I used 400 grit sand paper then some scotch bright. You want to make sure you clean the said surface really well. I use a paper towel and some general cleaner (kitchen lysol or 409 or whatever) until the paper towel stays white when you wipe it. I used Aluminum/Metal Silicone from Lowes made by GE. It is a black and blue tube with Aluminum and Metal Silicone written on it, haha....oh look I am nice and searched on Google for you:



That says Window and Door but the bottle looks the same.

They're like 6 bucks and you can pick up a 1 dollar caulk gun in the same isle. You have to shove a screw driver down the tip when you open it otherwise the it to poke a hole in the seal that you can't see. If you squeeze on it long enough without doing that it'll explode/break out the back....ask me how I know.

Anyway, just lay a small bead of that down in the groove and smooth it out with your finger, let it cure for 24 hours and push on it to make sure the edges of it don't come up and you're good to go.

It takes about 10 mins a wheel max to do the whole process.



PS - I would do powder coat, its stronger and you don't have to do anything.

[kensreliableb18b]

^^^agreed, i'd powdercoat if i were you.

[C-unit]

I just encounter some problem. I took the bolts out but the face is not coming out. I can't tell if the face is welded on or just pressed in? Is there any way I can take the face out without scratching it??

[2iv0 sx]

It's going to take same STRONG force...

When I took my vs-xx apart, I faced the outer barrel faced down on the grass and stomped the yard on that thing! I almost injured my ankle lol

I'd be scared being that yours are spanking new
Might have to somehow heat up the sealant

[95KA-Turbo]

Originally Posted by C-unit

I just encounter some problem. I took the bolts out but the face is not coming out. I can't tell if the face is welded on or just pressed in? Is there any way I can take the face out without scratching it??

375-400 degress
15mins
cardboard
a wooden step you can set it on (use a wood plank if you don't have one).
kick in the back of the face until it pops out!

Basically if the step was looked at as a L shape, with the bottom line being the flor and the top of the step not being pictured you just lean the wheel against it like so:

L\

Haha, that's the best I can do!

I didn't care how mine looked afterward because I was redoing everything. You may want to do your temperature at 300-325 degrees and just keep checking it if you're worried about the paint and make sure you are kicking the face out onto something that will not damage it. I had some wooden stairs coming off a deck into the side yard. The grass died there but the wheel was fine, haha.

[EDacIouSX]

the whole purpose of that wheel is to have the lip. you want to paint it??? What are you going to paint it if I may ask. Painting that wheel wil really devalue it.

[MavericStephenc]

Originally Posted by EDacIouSX

the whole purpose of that wheel is to have the lip. you want to paint it??? What are you going to paint it if I may ask. Painting that wheel wil really devalue it.

good thing its his rim and he can re chrome it if he wants. if it makes him happy who really gives a shit

[95KA-Turbo]

Originally Posted by C-unit

I am looking to paint my wheels, they have polished lip and my painter told me that I need special prep to get the anodizing off which is kinda expensive. Anyone has any idea if what I need to do to have the paint stick and not chipping in couple months?

These are the wheels and I am looking to have the lip painted Gloss black.
http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/c...2/IMG_8032.jpg

PS: This is not a discussion thread about polished lip vs painted lip. So if you think I shouldn't paint my wheels, you can keep that to yourself. Thanks

I'm kind of biased but I've always liked solid colored large lipped wheels.

[Kouki_monstr]

just wanted to say beautiful rims polished or painted lip!!

[s13dan]

Originally Posted by MavericStephenc

if thats not enough. then hit it with 180 grit. the object is to get the polish off. If that doesn't work bead blast it.

remeber.

scuff/ sand with 180
get all polish off
etching primer
wet sand
paint
wet sand
clear
wet sand

I paint too

Word.
Exactly whats needed to paint* it properly.

[silviaguy240]

another way so you dont have to heat, flipped my wheels over on a rubber mat and i took a 4x4 and a 10lb hammer to the mounting pad of my ABC's and it worked like a charm.

[thetopcow]

Just a little info on anodizing and paint. I work in an aircraft paint shop at Duncan Aviation and we prime and paint right over anodizing on Falcon Jets. If you were to use an aviation paint process you should be able to paint them up and have it stick without really any issues. If you would like I can get you the brands and numbers of the stuff we use. PM me for more info.

[C-unit]

Originally Posted by EDacIouSX

the whole purpose of that wheel is to have the lip. you want to paint it??? What are you going to paint it if I may ask. Painting that wheel wil really devalue it.

Don't really care about devaluing it, polish lip is play out imo.

Thanks 95KA-Turbo for the advice, It seems ghetto but I guess it's worth a try. I'll snap some pic tomorrow and tell you guys how it goes. I was also doing some research on the finishing and here is my solution.

Type-III black anodizing with clearcoat. They should be more durable than powder coating and more shinny as well.

I