SR20 headwork questions..

[Lucas180]

i am trying to figure out what kind of set up i want to go with I have come up with this

right now i have stock internals on my SR i have 1 maybe 2 hydrolic lifters starting to tick.

SOO my plan

is to pick up Tomei Procam

(Lash Type) Lift: 12.00mm (IN / EX)
Duration: 260deg (IN / EX)

Tomei Cam gears , BC valve springs.

as well as replace all 8 hydrolic lifters with new ones from Nissan.

i have a few questions before i am sure..first,is it best to stick with hydrolic lifters ? if not ..why?

what kind of management system would I need to look at ..(if any) to run this stuff..boost at 10-12 PSI with a S14 T28 turbo, engine is a redtop SR.

Thanks!

[jspaeth]

FALSE.

If you are not sure "if it is better to stick with hydraulic lifters", then the answer is automatically YES.

You don't sound like you have the knowledge (based on your post only) to build a solid lifter head.

Tomei Procams are for solid lifter setups. You should be looking at their Poncams.

For an affordable setup, go with a ROM tune from Enthalpy or Jim Wolf.

For more flexability, go with a standalone like Apexi Power FC ($$), AEM ($$$) or Haltech ($$$).


If that's all you plan on doing, go with something affordable and easy, like PowerFC.

You don't need to REPLACE the lifters jsut because they are ticking.....you can take them out, submerge them in oil, and "bleed" them of air.


EDIT: Also, you would have to redo the shims on a solid lifter setup every couple of 1000 miles. Unless you are really hardcore or are building a true race car, you honestly don't need this, especially with those cams/springs

[Lucas180]

ahh, yeah i have never done any internal engine work before so i am learning here.

car is street driven and track driven. mostly drifting..alot. so i want something reliable..but i dont need a crazy set up with solid lifters ..espically with the shimming business.

so that cam idea is pretty much out then..the poncam is more what i should look at then,the main reason i am doing the cams is well..for one. an upgrade in power and two, the lifter ticking seems to have left a mark on the stock cams lobe..so i figure i should replace it.

i have read you can bleed the lifters..but how do i know if it worked or not..the tick doesnt happen all the time ...sometimes its super quiet..sometimes is really loud...sometimes i cant hear it at all..

[jspaeth]

If it really is LIFTER TICKING, then there is more likely than not just air in there, that you can easily bleed out when you do the head.

Look at some poncams. For that size turbo, you should probably go with 260 duration cams.

I have never done internals before, and I did my whole head (including HG) a few months ago.


The key things are:

1) Having the right tools
2) Having an extra set of hands (from time to time)
3) Do as much reading about how it's done before you get started.

[fliprayzin240sx]

Why the hell would you want something so big of a cam for a T28 turbo? Procams will hurt your setup more than help it.

[djcobra]

Quick reference of Turbo and Cams to choose.

T25...Stock, 256/256
T28...Stock, 256/256, 256/264
GT28RS....256/256, 256/264, 264/264
GT2871R .64.....256/264, 264/264
GT2871R .86.....264/264, 264/272, 272/272
GT3071R .63.....264/264, 264/272
GT30R.....264/272
GT35R.....272/272

I like response so i usually go with a lowest cam profile being for low end response (drifting, mountain runs etc..) and highest profiles for max drag racing.

Current Setup: GT28RS with HKS Step 1 256/264 (10.5mm lift) (S14 VTC)

The new HKS Step 1 cams have a higher lift (11.5mm) (same as the old HKS Step 2's).

Anyways, pick your flava!

Steve.

[juggernaut1]

Originally Posted by jspaeth

FALSE.

Tomei Procams are for solid lifter setups. You should be looking at their Poncams.

WRONG. These cams are available in hydro and solid formats.

[jspaeth]

Originally Posted by juggernaut1

WRONG. These cams are available in hydro and solid formats.

Just checked....I stand corrected, thank you for pointing that out.

OP....you CAN get ProCams that work with the HLAs.

[fliprayzin240sx]

Originally Posted by djcobra

Quick reference of Turbo and Cams to choose.

T25...Stock, 256/256
T28...Stock, 256/256, 256/264
GT28RS....256/256, 256/264, 264/264
GT2871R .64.....256/264, 264/264
GT2871R .86.....264/264, 264/272, 272/272
GT3071R .63.....264/264, 264/272
GT30R.....264/272
GT35R.....272/272

I like response so i usually go with a lowest cam profile being for low end response (drifting, mountain runs etc..) and highest profiles for max drag racing.

Current Setup: GT28RS with HKS Step 1 256/264 (10.5mm lift) (S14 VTC)

The new HKS Step 1 cams have a higher lift (11.5mm) (same as the old HKS Step 2's).

Anyways, pick your flava!

Steve.

Personally having a GT3582R with 270 Procams...Dont go 270s if you want some response.

[juggernaut1]

Originally Posted by jspaeth

Just checked....I stand corrected, thank you for pointing that out.

OP....you CAN get ProCams that work with the HLAs.

No problem

I run the 260 hla cam with my 3071 and its a great little cam.

Although for a stock T28 turbo.....HKS step 1's 256/264 would be a nice little combo.

[Lucas180]

Thanks for all the replys guys, the reason i had all that in mind was in part becasue a friend had it for sale but after research..ive decided to go with the tomei poncam duration of 256,so will work well with the t28, one day ill get a gt2871r. maybe next winter.
SG-Motorsport


with BC springs and retainers...and bleed or replace the lifters..

and should be good.


any other ideas to add ?

whats the whole point of the rocker arm stopper..should i look into this while i have it apart?

what kind of power upgrade will this add ..stock ECU still ...no power FC yet lol

[MandTPhotography]

Whole point of RAS is so that your rocker arms don't get stuck up. They are cheap as fuck and easy to install.