Drift entrance techniques/form

[nieko]

Originally Posted by GripSpec

I need some advice as far as low hp drifting goes (single cam, welded diff). I have always tried to clutch kick at passed events but my technique is awful. I find myself slowing down way too much for the turn, clutch in, floor it until rev's build, then dropping the clutch. That isn't really drifting to me. Thats more of a moving burnout while turning. Anyways, in order to learn I think I'm going to have to incorporate the ebrake. I notice that I can only get my ebrake to lock (clutch in of course) if I am already braking. If my foot is not on the brake, the ebrake will not lock the wheels.

When you guys are drifting, do you yank the ebrake while you are still braking, then get on the gas, or have you already rolled off the brakes before you pull the brake?

Hey, didnt read your post.

I drifted my single cam for like a year and a half with welded diff, maybe bump up your tire pressure in the rear if you are having trouble keeping them spinning.

and when you clutch kick, you dont want to be slowing down then pushing the clutch in then revving it then dropping it.

Set yourself up so you are just kinda flooring into the turn a little above mid-range rpms, and literally just KICK the clutch. it helps to use a little bit of a feint but not totally neccesary.

for example, in second gear, go into the turn like 4k rpms approx when you clutch kick. make sure you foot is all the way to the ground pretty much. once it breaks loose play with the throttle to keep it where you need to.

as far as the ebrake technique. there is NO need to be pushing the brake pedal. The most common mistake people have with ebrakes is they think you hae to just YANK it really fast...

that is not the case AT ALL.

go up to the turn, turn un with the clutch pressed in and pull up on the ebrake until it locks then blip the gas with the clutch in so that when you release the clutch your rpms are where they are supposed to be so you dont end up shiftlocking and slowing yourself down.

[dat411kid]

Originally Posted by nieko

Hey, didnt read your post.

I drifted my single cam for like a year and a half with welded diff, maybe bump up your tire pressure in the rear if you are having trouble keeping them spinning.

and when you clutch kick, you dont want to be slowing down then pushing the clutch in then revving it then dropping it.

Set yourself up so you are just kinda flooring into the turn a little above mid-range rpms, and literally just KICK the clutch. it helps to use a little bit of a feint but not totally neccesary.

for example, in second gear, go into the turn like 4k rpms approx when you clutch kick. make sure you foot is all the way to the ground pretty much. once it breaks loose play with the throttle to keep it where you need to.

as far as the ebrake technique. there is NO need to be pushing the brake pedal. The most common mistake people have with ebrakes is they think you hae to just YANK it really fast...

that is not the case AT ALL.

go up to the turn, turn un with the clutch pressed in and pull up on the ebrake until it locks then blip the gas with the clutch in so that when you release the clutch your rpms are where they are supposed to be so you dont end up shiftlocking and slowing yourself down.

Gonna give this a shot...

Thnx for posting!

[yokotavia]

Originally Posted by nieko

as far as the ebrake technique. there is NO need to be pushing the brake pedal.

i disagree. footbraking with ebrake helps alot when you need to slow down and/or increase angle.

and left foot braking helps alot when you need to bring the rear of the car around while your still on the gas.

[recklessrob]

Originally Posted by yokotavia

i disagree. footbraking with ebrake helps alot when you need to slow down and/or increase angle.

and left foot braking helps alot when you need to bring the rear of the car around while your still on the gas.

i think what nieko meant is that the rear wheels should lock up with the ebrake without using the front brakes to add rotation. there should be no NEED to use the front brakes to make the rears lock. good call: footbraking+ebraking=win for slowing down and/or increasing angle.