Slow Response from petal?

[godrifttoday]

Get a mechanic u ungrateful person! u said u are not 21 so u should be able to afford a mechanic. It seems like u are the one guessing!! I hate people like u . U try to help. and then they give u shit, like if u know. Sorry for shit threading though...

[rb25_s13*CHUKI]

Originally Posted by Luvs2slide

I Never said my engine was perfect. I'm not wasting anymore of my time with you. Its like talking to a kid. Goes in one ear, out the other.

You are adding non-resourceful bullshit to this thread and I already told you to GTFO before mods close this thread.

From the looks of things anything Is resourceful for you right now,

[Luvs2slide]

Originally Posted by rc1honda

You and me have almost the exact same setup. A good thing is that you have a Power FC which makes checking the TPS voltage easy as pie.

Take the commander and go down the ETC. menu. The go to Sensor Check menu. You can check the TPS voltage without a voltmeter here. While in the car and watching the PFC commander press the gas petal. Closed throttle should be between .35-.45 volts. WOT should be 4.8-5.0 volts or more.

Now while still watching the PFC, press the petal all the way to the floor. The voltage should now be reading 4.8-5.0 or over on the PFC commander. If not then you have to adjust the TPS on the throttle body. Loosen the screws and slightly move it up or down. Then use the PFC commander to monitor the voltage change. I can tell the SR's are very finicky with the tps and throttle rseponse.

Also what kinda HP did you make at what boost? and what kind of dyno if don't mind me asking?

Great info! I will definately use this easy method. Actually there are no more Dynos here on island (Okinawa). Mostly just street/butt dyno. Theres not even a legal 1/4 mile track. However, some of the fastest cars in Japan come from Okinawa...dont ask me how they do it lol.

[Luvs2slide]

Originally Posted by godrifttoday

Get a mechanic u ungrateful person! u said u are not 21 so u should be able to afford a mechanic. It seems like u are the one guessing!! I hate people like u . U try to help. and then they give u shit, like if u know. Sorry for shit threading though...

Ungrateful? Really?

I am not ungrateful to those that offer LEGIT info. Like I mentioned before, anyone can come into this thread saying, check your MAF, check your timing, blah blah.

Alot of this shit is already done with and check/verified.

I only post a thread when I'm stumped (hence the low post count) as in this instance.

[rb25_s13*CHUKI]

Originally Posted by Luvs2slide

Ungrateful? Really?

I am not ungrateful to those that offer LEGIT info. Like I mentioned before, anyone can come into this thread saying, check your MAF, check your timing, blah blah.

Alot of this shit is already done with and check/verified.

I only post a thread when I'm stumped (hence the low post count) as in this instance.

If alot of It has been done then why ask a forum for help? This is a stupid ass thread. My peddle feels slow. people give u problems to why it would do that, STOP POSTING IN MY THREAD! ONLY POST IF U KNOW EXACTLY WHAT IS WRONG WITH MY CAR. People are only trying to help your dumbass and then u try to knock them for age and this and that,"

[rb25_s13*CHUKI]

Originally Posted by Luvs2slide

Ungrateful? Really?

I am not ungrateful to those that offer LEGIT info. Like I mentioned before, anyone can come into this thread saying, check your MAF, check your timing, blah blah.

Alot of this shit is already done with and check/verified.

I only post a thread when I'm stumped (hence the low post count) as in this instance.

Yes you are right anyone can come Into the thread saying that but they are only trying to give u ideas to help you whack job.

If everything has already been tested and your so awesome and everything Is perfect. then dont ask questions.

I really do wish u never fix this problem for being such an asshole douche bag. I hope It gets even slower. 28 year old dumbass

[godrifttoday]

Originally Posted by rb25_s13*CHUKI

If alot of It has been done then why ask a forum for help? This is a stupid ass thread. My peddle feels slow. people give u problems to why it would do that, STOP POSTING IN MY THREAD! ONLY POST IF U KNOW EXACTLY WHAT IS WRONG WITH MY CAR. People are only trying to help your dumbass and then u try to knock them for age and this and that,"

Thank you... Exactly...

[mattack69]

This is awesome. sorry to interupt...

[rb25_s13*CHUKI]

Originally Posted by 240sx123$

Rather than arguing about the possibilities, why dont we wait for OP to test his TPS, CTS, and IACV?

Im not opposed to the idea of it being something other than the CTS and I acknowledge the reasoning behind both other diagnosis', but until the OP confirms what the problem was, any arguing is purely speculation.

If the TPS was maxed out in one direction, why not adjust it to the middle and see if that doesnt make a difference? Or check it with a voltmeter? If it were me, Id have "fiddled around" with it (for lack of a better term) just to see if I could get it to do something different.

Start with free things- test IACV, test TPS, then replace CTS.

We would have loved that but he's too much of a dumbass to comprehend what we are telling him. He keeps saying everything is perfectly amazing.

[Luvs2slide]

Originally Posted by rb25_s13*CHUKI

We would have loved that but he's too much of a dumbass to comprehend what we are telling him. He keeps saying everything is perfectly amazing.

STFU up already geezous.

Oh by the way, timing is good, TPS is good. Although my TPS was maxed out, my PFC read 0.45V throttle closed and 4V fully open. Just to be sure I swapped it out with 2 others I had and both would not even go above 4.1V...and my TB is a confirmed SRdet one.

I remember someone saying fully open should be 4.8-5V? FSM states approx 4V...

guess all left is the CTS to check.

[jspaeth]

Originally Posted by rb25_s13*CHUKI

We would have loved that but he's too much of a dumbass to comprehend what we are telling him. He keeps saying everything is perfectly amazing.

I understand your sentiments, but in this case, you need to just give it up man.

The list of things you said COULD be the issue is in no way comprehensive.

It is only a list of the most likely issues.

The fact the problem goes away when the car warms up rules out the TPS, which you have been pushing for so hard.


Settle down.

[cotbu]

How about getting the car warmed up and disconnecting the coolant temp sensor?
You think the outcome would be different?
I know with my software I can tell the ecu, in active test mode what the temperature is and it will respond to that condition. PFC not so advanced? lol.
Why is it taking so long to eliminate both CTS and TPS anyway?

[Luvs2slide]

TPS has already been confirmed good.

CTS is good b/c my readings from PFC commander match up to what my Defi guage reads +/- 2 degrees...unless theres another function the CTS performs?

Timing has been confirmed by re-stabbing CAS and checking timing with a gun.

going to change out my plugs/coilpacks this weekend. Putting in Irway iridiums and Splitfires, see what that does...

its like a retard festival here


the problem is your car....... its a piece of shit.


solution? change it for one that isnt a piece of shit.

[sr20s13abel]

this is simple.. u need FINE TUNING.. when u run big cams such as 272. u always get that delay when the car is warming up... i had the same problem on my 500hp sr20det... i just let it warm up and it doest bother me..

[Luvs2slide]

Originally Posted by sr20s13abel

this is simple.. u need FINE TUNING.. when u run big cams such as 272. u always get that delay when the car is warming up... i had the same problem on my 500hp sr20det... i just let it warm up and it doest bother me..

cams are 256, not 272. The idle is not "loping." Idle is very stable. I will try and pull the CTS plug and see what that does.

My low end might be just stupid rich or something. However, theres never any smoke.

[Luvs2slide]

Originally Posted by ixfxi

its like a retard festival here


the problem is your car....... its a piece of shit.


solution? change it for one that isnt a piece of shit.

FUck Off

[jspaeth]

Originally Posted by Luvs2slide

TPS has already been confirmed good.

CTS is good b/c my readings from PFC commander match up to what my Defi guage reads +/- 2 degrees...unless theres another function the CTS performs?

Timing has been confirmed by re-stabbing CAS and checking timing with a gun.

going to change out my plugs/coilpacks this weekend. Putting in Irway iridiums and Splitfires, see what that does...

I think that the IACV has it's own internal coolant temp sensor that is used to control high idle during startup, right? (why else would coolant be run to the IACV???).

Anyway, I am wondering if on your car (and mine), that sensor is semi-shot and causes suckiness...

[cotbu]

I've run with no IACV coolant lines and the symptoms OP/TS describes did not occur.
I've tuned multiple setups over the summer, so i figured I'd leave those lines looped and during summer months there was no difference in idle or throttle response.
As soon as the weather changed, I could not idle for shit. It would go through the normal process of warming and idling, then once at operating temp it would idle at 1500rpm or higher, max 1800rpm. I could only drop it about 300rpm.
I've only blipped the throttled during the high idle rpm, it responded normal.

I knew exactly what the problem was, so i ran coolant lines immediately! And even though my first attempt was leaking it idled correctly. It happened around thanksgiving this year.
Along with my other, annual 240sx problems like, Auto seat belt failure, and driver side auto window failure. Last year it was also headlights, but not this year! FIXED HEADLIGHTS FOR THE WIN!

Then again every car, cannot respond the same to every situation, tune, diagnosis etc. That would make it too easy.

[jspaeth]

Originally Posted by cotbu

I've run with no IACV coolant lines and the symptoms OP/TS describes did not occur.
I've tuned multiple setups over the summer, so i figured I'd leave those lines looped and during summer months there was no difference in idle or throttle response.
As soon as the weather changed, I could not idle for shit. It would go through the normal process of warming and idling, then once at operating temp it would idle at 1500rpm or higher, max 1800rpm. I could only drop it about 300rpm.
I've only blipped the throttled during the high idle rpm, it responded normal.

I knew exactly what the problem was, so i ran coolant lines immediately! And even though my first attempt was leaking it idled correctly. It happened around thanksgiving this year.
Along with my other, annual 240sx problems like, Auto seat belt failure, and driver side auto window failure. Last year it was also headlights, but not this year! FIXED HEADLIGHTS FOR THE WIN!

Then again every car, cannot respond the same to every situation, tune, diagnosis etc. That would make it too easy.

So you are saying that although you did NOT see the same problems as the OP, on a side note, NOT hooking up the IACV coolant lines preventing you from idling well in the cold, correct?

[cotbu]

What am I really trying to say? Hmmmmmmm, is that there are common symptoms for part failures. The common symptom for not having the coolant lines hooked up to the IACV is the high idle, that of which is uncontrollable in cold weather. (correct)

I also made a comment about annual, yearly problems, related to my 240sx. Of which i noticed other members having.