GT2871 USERS. SR motor

[tabasco122]

enthalpy costs $400 for the initial tune (mainly setting it up with the daughtercard) and $150 for each retune. Unless you change your setup significantly, you shouldnt need to send it in for a retune. If something is wrong with the tune, usually enthalpy will send you a reflash for free. You never have to send your ecu back in, you order the new tune and they send you the chips that you can just swap out. I found an enthalpy ECU for $200 so now i have an extra ECU, when i get my turbo and injectors, ill pay enthalpy $150 for the tune and they will send me chips, takes a few days usually. For moderate power goals of 500hp or less, you cant beat it imho.

[2forty]

ive gotten a reflash from enthalpy and it ran horrible. i then sent it back in for another reflash. after countless emails and whatnot, i never got another tune. Ill never go back. my cousin also had a similar experience.

[tabasco122]

when was this? ive done a lot of reading and they have a pretty good reputation...

[2forty]

This was within about 1.5 years for my retune. I ran tune i purchased from someone else tuned for an hks2530. This tune actually ran pretty decent, but i wanted a correct tune. I ordered the retune from them, my idle was nasty rish, 10.5 and under. spewing black smoke and studdering. Switched back to the initial tune, ran like a champ. Sent the tune back to get reflashed, never got anything back after countless emails and pms. My cousin ordered a tune for his 2871r setup. Ran rich as hell on idle, spewing smoke. He threw on an old tune he purchased with his ecu setup for a 35r, and it ran better. Me personally, I will never purchase another enthalpy tune. but thats just speaking for myself. ill go JWT is i need a rom tune.

[mattsil80wis]

after dealing with both enthalpy and JWT i will send everyone to both...i have dealt with both of them very closely and they are both excellent at what they do. I have never had a problem with either company. They were always fast to respond and took the time to help figure out issues with my car.

[slider2828]

Originally Posted by BlackZenkiS14

I understand the simplicity and ease of getting a ROM based tune, but something about it still makes me nervous not being able to control everything...

Im on my 2nd motor now, and really really cant afford to let another one go, I got too much other shit to save for. What are you running for tuning?

Whats the cost of that? done and finished. and how often do you have to send it in and get it retuned? I worry about changing things and then having to spend another 300 to get it retuned...

My setup will end up being a built bottom end, a moderately built (rebuilt) topend, z32, S14 T28( gt2871 eventually), 740cc injectors, Greddy FMIC, exhaust, walbro 255, and all the other supporting mods that go with the above.

I just dont know what I want to do to keep this thing in check

Depends on a couple of things. What do type of driving? Track or just spirited street driving? You should really invest in gauges that was the #1 fault of mine. Went with autometer, that POS failed me. Going with Powered by Max, they have new electronic meters, which looks pretty good.... Meters are your friend. Meters should check oil pressure, fuel pressure, oil temp, and coolant temps.

If you go to the track, swirl pot for the fuel, swirl pot for the coolant, oil cooler, accusump, and greddy pan.

Other than that just check ups on your car often and get a good tune aka SteveShadows....

[silversr]

So i sent my ecu back to enthalpy and he said for some reason the original tune was for 700cc injectors so he switched it to 740cc and he added some timing to help with the s3 cams. It was running fine with this tune no hesitation etc.. but it wasn't making the power it should.

I got the ecu back and the car runs like crap, idles at 10 afrs, cruising is between 10-11afrs and it hesitates while cruising and it backfires. I lowered the fuel pressure but it only helps in boost but it still feels weak. I don't want to dyno it because it would be a waste of money. I can already tell that its making less power than before. I just hate having to wait a few days before even getting a response.

I'll lower the fuel pressure even more to see what happens. I'll double check the plugs and timing but nothing has changed from the previous tune. Hopefully the motor doesn't blow.

[codyace]

Originally Posted by slider2828

Depends on a couple of things. What do type of driving? Track or just spirited street driving? You should really invest in gauges that was the #1 fault of mine. Went with autometer, that POS failed me. Going with Powered by Max, they have new electronic meters, which looks pretty good.... Meters are your friend. Meters should check oil pressure, fuel pressure, oil temp, and coolant temps.

Gauges are certainly important. Autometer may not be the best, but their mid range stuff isn't junk either. I'd stay away from any of the cheaper stuff/non name brand myself.

Originally Posted by silversr

So i sent my ecu back to enthalpy and he said for some reason the original tune was for 700cc injectors so he switched it to 740cc and he added some timing to help with the s3 cams. It was running fine with this tune no hesitation etc.. but it wasn't making the power it should.

You're timing and everything are right? Chips installed the right way? While I may be a JWT fan, I will say that Enthalpy (Scott Chris or Martin) all have been SUPER helpful and more than willing to make good on their tunes and ECU's

Originally Posted by silversr

I just hate having to wait a few days before even getting a response.

That's going to happen with anyone and the ECU's. You gotta remember their life is not the ECU business, so their may be time to wait before reply. Gotta also remember how many emails they must get.

Originally Posted by BlackZenkiS14

I understand the simplicity and ease of getting a ROM based tune, but something about it still makes me nervous not being able to control everything...

I wouldn't be concerned with either the JWT or Enthalpy setups as both have bene out now long enough to have tunes on. Most issues with cars always seem to be 'with the car' moreso than the tune...wiring, or vacuum, or timing, or condition of parts etc etc.

Originally Posted by BlackZenkiS14

Im on my 2nd motor now, and really really cant afford to let another one go, I got too much other shit to save for. What are you running for tuning?

Jim Wolf Ecu. I've run once since day one. I got a reflash a few years back to add on water injection and launch control, and that has been it.

I always prefer the JWT ECU for my own stuff, just as I've had fantastic luck with them, across all platforms (From my Altimas, to Sentra's to Z's and to the 240sx)...they work perfect out of the box (some cars may need a minor fuel pressure adjustment, but that's not under the ECU control) and are reliable.

Originally Posted by BlackZenkiS14

Whats the cost of that? done and finished. and how often do you have to send it in and get it retuned? I worry about changing things and then having to spend another 300 to get it retuned...

The only thing you'd ever need to change in regard to a retune is if you change injectors or MAF...so you're best bet is to get 740cc and a Z32/Cobra maf off the bat and be done. On some cars we've logged them and gotten minor adjustments, but it's only due to the owner wanting it (and for 100 dollars it's not a bad deal).

[SLiDe_WaYz]

Autometer isn't bad from what I hear, but has anyone had any complaints with Prosports?

[tabasco122]

Originally Posted by SLiDe_WaYz

Autometer isn't bad from what I hear, but has anyone had any complaints with Prosports?

I have prosport premium gauges and i prefer them over my autometer pro comps. they are awesome, and just as accurate. reads the same pressure as my autometer did, and it matches my profec too. They dont react as fast as the defi's, but i honestly cant think of a situation where that would matter. IE, when you shift, a defi goes from boost to vac in like 1/4 of a second, the prosport is like 1/2 a second. The pro sport premium gauges also have the peak/warn feature, which saved my ass last night when a coolant hose under the intake mani busted and caused my car to nearly overheat.

[2forty]

Originally Posted by silversr

So i sent my ecu back to enthalpy and he said for some reason the original tune was for 700cc injectors so he switched it to 740cc and he added some timing to help with the s3 cams. It was running fine with this tune no hesitation etc.. but it wasn't making the power it should.

I got the ecu back and the car runs like crap, idles at 10 afrs, cruising is between 10-11afrs and it hesitates while cruising and it backfires. I lowered the fuel pressure but it only helps in boost but it still feels weak. I don't want to dyno it because it would be a waste of money. I can already tell that its making less power than before. I just hate having to wait a few days before even getting a response.

I'll lower the fuel pressure even more to see what happens. I'll double check the plugs and timing but nothing has changed from the previous tune. Hopefully the motor doesn't blow.

I had the same issue. ran rich as hell. I had sard 550s. They asked me if i was sure they were sards. I sent him pics of my part number etc of the injectors, was positive they were sard/denso units. ended up running the tune that came with the ecu which ran a million times better than the reflash i got. never again for me! stand alone or jwt.

[codyace]

I"ve personally logged vs prosports and autometeres and with that said would never ever run prosports in my personal stuff. They work, but nothing exact. Same can be said with entry level autometers, they work, but not well.

[tabasco122]

Originally Posted by codyace

I"ve personally logged vs prosports and autometeres and with that said would never ever run prosports in my personal stuff. They work, but nothing exact. Same can be said with entry level autometers, they work, but not well.

which prosports were you using?

[2fast4y0u]

guys-
long time no post for me.

quick background on whats happening because im DESPERATE for some help!!!

car has been at the paint shop for 9 months getting done. just got it back beautiful as ever and im starting to clean it up. engine bay is destroyed from all the over spray and paint dust in the place. pissed off, i decide to try and clean everything with lacquer thinner...not working. i decide to then wash the engine bay down with de-greaser and pressure wash everything.
i cover up the air filter with a bag so it doesnt get wet. i never got close enough to anything to harm it. i have an osculating head on the washer so its not just a straight blast. Afterwards, i changed the oil and washed the air filter. The car sat for a week not touch, moved, or anything...
i tried driving it to a car show 2 days ago and everything seemed fine until i left......
the car starts fine. the car revs fine. if i put the engine under a load it sounds like a machine gun. the worse stutter i have ever heard.
i checked the spark plug...valleys lets call em. there was a VERY small amount of water in a few. i blew them out and dried was ever was left with a towel. i unplugged the injectors because i read that a bad connection could cause this. i left everything open and unplugged for an entire day. last night, i hooked everything back up, plugged in the injectors and took it for a drive. same thing. first gear, about 3000-3500 rpm 50% throttle pure machine gun. put it in neutral or press the clutch and it will rev to 7000 rpm no problem. WTF?!?!?!?

any ideas?

[jspaeth]

Originally Posted by 2fast4y0u

guys-
long time no post for me.

quick background on whats happening because im DESPERATE for some help!!!

car has been at the paint shop for 9 months getting done. just got it back beautiful as ever and im starting to clean it up. engine bay is destroyed from all the over spray and paint dust in the place. pissed off, i decide to try and clean everything with lacquer thinner...not working. i decide to then wash the engine bay down with de-greaser and pressure wash everything.
i cover up the air filter with a bag so it doesnt get wet. i never got close enough to anything to harm it. i have an osculating head on the washer so its not just a straight blast. Afterwards, i changed the oil and washed the air filter. The car sat for a week not touch, moved, or anything...
i tried driving it to a car show 2 days ago and everything seemed fine until i left......
the car starts fine. the car revs fine. if i put the engine under a load it sounds like a machine gun. the worse stutter i have ever heard.
i checked the spark plug...valleys lets call em. there was a VERY small amount of water in a few. i blew them out and dried was ever was left with a towel. i unplugged the injectors because i read that a bad connection could cause this. i left everything open and unplugged for an entire day. last night, i hooked everything back up, plugged in the injectors and took it for a drive. same thing. first gear, about 3000-3500 rpm 50% throttle pure machine gun. put it in neutral or press the clutch and it will rev to 7000 rpm no problem. WTF?!?!?!?

any ideas?

Hmmmm....is it possible moisture or dust or something got into the CAS sensor?

[nismoninjagtr]

Originally Posted by 2fast4y0u

guys-
long time no post for me.

quick background on whats happening because im DESPERATE for some help!!!

car has been at the paint shop for 9 months getting done. just got it back beautiful as ever and im starting to clean it up. engine bay is destroyed from all the over spray and paint dust in the place. pissed off, i decide to try and clean everything with lacquer thinner...not working. i decide to then wash the engine bay down with de-greaser and pressure wash everything.
i cover up the air filter with a bag so it doesnt get wet. i never got close enough to anything to harm it. i have an osculating head on the washer so its not just a straight blast. Afterwards, i changed the oil and washed the air filter. The car sat for a week not touch, moved, or anything...
i tried driving it to a car show 2 days ago and everything seemed fine until i left......
the car starts fine. the car revs fine. if i put the engine under a load it sounds like a machine gun. the worse stutter i have ever heard.
i checked the spark plug...valleys lets call em. there was a VERY small amount of water in a few. i blew them out and dried was ever was left with a towel. i unplugged the injectors because i read that a bad connection could cause this. i left everything open and unplugged for an entire day. last night, i hooked everything back up, plugged in the injectors and took it for a drive. same thing. first gear, about 3000-3500 rpm 50% throttle pure machine gun. put it in neutral or press the clutch and it will rev to 7000 rpm no problem. WTF?!?!?!?

any ideas?

check your harness where ever it could have got wet and see if somethings exposed thats where i'd start...

[codyace]

Originally Posted by tabasco122

which prosports were you using?

Unsure on the type, whatever was out 3 years ago. Turb oMustang buddy of mine bought them, and they were garbage vs the AEM.

Originally Posted by 2fast4y0u

guys-
same thing. first gear, about 3000-3500 rpm 50% throttle pure machine gun. put it in neutral or press the clutch and it will rev to 7000 rpm no problem. WTF?!?!?!?

Reset your ECU, and then check the MAF/CAS/CTS for water in the connectors or shorts. Sounds like a limp mode issue more than anything.

[tabasco122]

Originally Posted by codyace

Unsure on the type, whatever was out 3 years ago. Turb oMustang buddy of mine bought them, and they were garbage vs the AEM.

gotcha, i was wary about them at first, but i decided to try them. Prosport is really good about refunds from what i read, and everything i could find on them was from a few years ago, nothing recent. My gauges perform pretty good, identical to my old autometer gauge and my greddy profec b spec 2.

[codyace]

i guess the best way to put it, is that the prosport will work, but they are not the most accurate gauge per the cash. Good enough? Sure...the best? Not a chance.

[tabasco122]

as i said, i compared it to my midrange autometers and my profec, if i had a standalone vac gauge i would use that also. there was a link where someone with actual lab pressure equipment (calibrated and all that jazz) tested them against defi's and there was no difference as far as accuracy goes. The defis do respond a bit faster, but nothing that makes a significant difference. ill attempt to find the link.

[codyace]

I hear ya man! I'll be the first to say that Defi are overpriced shit. Sure they work, but not worth the cost at all!

[tabasco122]

Eh, to each their own i guess. Im pretty confident in my prosports. everything i can find on them are from older units, quality seems to have vastly improved. The premiums have treated me pretty well, i plan to get a few more later.

[2fast4y0u]

i pulled the plug on the cas yesterday to let it dry if there was anything in it. I also just removed the cover on the cas and all looks normal. I have a few minutes after work today, i will check the ecu for limp mode.
its an enthalpy tuned ecu, is there a way to reset it?

[BlackZenkiS14]

Man, I really like the idea of the pre-tuned ECU's, but Im still nervous about it. I have 740cc and Z32 already. I am going to be shooting for close to 375hp as I can wit ha 2871 .64.

So does that just plug up, and go? Do I have to determine a boost level before I have it tuned? Can I turn the boost up or down after I have the ECU in? Im just nervous about making small adjustments such as boost increases, octane changes, I/C pipe size changes. Intake manifold/exh manifold changes, and having to have the ECU sent off and retuned...

Sell me on this Pre-Tuned ECU deal lol

[bshotts]

Originally Posted by BlackZenkiS14

Man, I really like the idea of the pre-tuned ECU's, but Im still nervous about it. I have 740cc and Z32 already. I am going to be shooting for close to 375hp as I can wit ha 2871 .64.

So does that just plug up, and go? Do I have to determine a boost level before I have it tuned? Can I turn the boost up or down after I have the ECU in? Im just nervous about making small adjustments such as boost increases, octane changes, I/C pipe size changes. Intake manifold/exh manifold changes, and having to have the ECU sent off and retuned...

Sell me on this Pre-Tuned ECU deal lol

As most who use mail-order tuned ECUs from Enthalpy/JWT will most likely agree, the simplicity, functionality, and reliability of using a retuned ECU from these established tuners far surpasses a full standalone for mostly bolt-on situations. This is especially true if you are like me and don't have many local shops that are established/reputable tuners working with Nissan engines.

In other words, let those who have the ability to quickly burn you a new tune for your mods worry about the fuel/ignition timing maps. Boost changes, octane differences, IC pipes changes, exhaust changes could make a performance difference but most likely will not need a retune. I had this same concern before I had mine sent to Enthalpy, but you should realize that they will burn your tune taking into consideration the MAF, maximum air flow rate of your turbo, injector flow rate, cam lift/duration, compression ratio, anything that will affect the combustion process really.

My advice to you is to get your hardware setup using all the components you really think you'll be happy with for your build, then send out your ECU to either of these two with your list of mods and purpose for the car, then install into said car, turn key, ignition, drive, happy, done. If you do run into any issues, these people will make it right, at least they have done so in the past.

[codyace]

Originally Posted by 2fast4y0u

i pulled the plug on the cas yesterday to let it dry if there was anything in it. I also just removed the cover on the cas and all looks normal. I have a few minutes after work today, i will check the ecu for limp mode.
its an enthalpy tuned ecu, is there a way to reset it?

You'd be able to reset it like OEM using the little white switch on the side of it. I forget the exact procedure off the top o fmy head now, but it's common. Same way as you'd get the codes fro a factory setup

Originally Posted by BlackZenkiS14

Man, I really like the idea of the pre-tuned ECU's, but Im still nervous about it. I have 740cc and Z32 already. I am going to be shooting for close to 375hp as I can wit ha 2871 .64.

There are tons of 350-400 whp 2871r cars on rom tunes...it's what they all make.

Originally Posted by BlackZenkiS14

So does that just plug up, and go? Do I have to determine a boost level before I have it tuned? Can I turn the boost up or down after I have the ECU in? Im just nervous about making small adjustments such as boost increases, octane changes, I/C pipe size changes. Intake manifold/exh manifold changes, and having to have the ECU sent off and retuned...

Sell me on this Pre-Tuned ECU deal lol

The thing is, with a MAF car, none of that really plays any huge role in the general sense. Sure you can fine tune things and really pinpoint stuff, but the rom tunes will get you 95% of the way there. Boost is totally independent of the tune, as it's all determinate on the MAF readings, and when you go WOT it goes to the open loop map anyway, not like much is going to change there in regard to bolt ons.

So while the 'tunable' setup may get you 100% ability, it is not a promise to get you 100% of potential, as it's all down to the end user. A rom tune will always get you to 95% of what it can/will be, as professionals have set the tunes up and will fix them in the event any are wrong.

This debate could go on for years, but I just like to keep things simple. JWT ECU is plug and play, works, and has great support. (Same goes with Enthalpy). By the time you get a standalone, get someone capable to tune it (or learn yourself) and the time you spend/gas you spend/things you may potentially brake..it's not worth it.

Originally Posted by bshotts

As most who use mail-order tuned ECUs from Enthalpy/JWT will most likely agree, the simplicity, functionality, and reliability of using a retuned ECU from these established tuners far surpasses a full standalone for mostly bolt-on situations. This is especially true if you are like me and don't have many local shops that are established/reputable tuners working with Nissan engines.

And that's really the beauty of it; most people automatically assume that standalone/tunable setups are 'best'...which can not be furhter from the truth, as even if the system is better/worse the tune can be JUNK...which IMO happens most of the time.

Originally Posted by bshotts

My advice to you is to get your hardware setup using all the components you really think you'll be happy with for your build, then send out your ECU to either of these two with your list of mods and purpose for the car, then install into said car, turn key, ignition, drive, happy, done. If you do run into any issues, these people will make it right, at least they have done so in the past.

Well said. In the end of the day (and I've said this 100x) we all own street cars...to me a rom setup is a true street setup.

[BlackZenkiS14]

Ok, Im starting to lean the JWT way, mainly because there really isnt anyone that i consider to be a completely competent tuner within 400 miles of my area.

If i were to call over to JWT, who should I ask for? I still need some convincing on this idea.

And also, if I pick up a used JWT ECU and have it sent off and retuned for myself, to save a couple hundred bucks, is that a safe option? Or is it really really worth it to just buy a brand new ECU from JWT?

[codyace]

Originally Posted by BlackZenkiS14

Ok, Im starting to lean the JWT way, mainly because there really isnt anyone that i consider to be a completely competent tuner within 400 miles of my area.

It's sadly the truth. I'm not saying you are not incapable of tuning the car, but it takes a good understanding of the entire system to work...also helps having friends that know

Originally Posted by BlackZenkiS14

If i were to call over to JWT, who should I ask for? I still need some convincing on this idea.

You'll probbaly only talk to Ben, as the rest of the crew typically stays off the phone. In the end, he's not going to convince you anymore than us...there is a reason why SO many peole use them, across all Nissan and Infiniti platforms...if they were junk, you'd know.

Originally Posted by BlackZenkiS14

And also, if I pick up a used JWT ECU and have it sent off and retuned for myself, to save a couple hundred bucks, is that a safe option? Or is it really really worth it to just buy a brand new ECU from JWT?

Totally a safe option, just make sure yo know what you are getting, and then when you send it to JWT they should only charge 100-150 bucks for the service/retune.

[BlackZenkiS14]

So if I did go that route, you guys just run them alone. Or do you keep an SAFC or like, on to do fine tuning?

[bshotts]

Originally Posted by BlackZenkiS14

So if I did go that route, you guys just run them alone. Or do you keep an SAFC or like, on to do fine tuning?

The beauty of running a reprommed ECU is that you don't have to worry about fine tuning. These guys have refined their tunes to work with your setup so well that like Cody said before, the gains you might find by hitting the dyno and fine tuning might not be worth the money.

As you've probably heard before, the danger with using a piece like the SAFC or any other piggyback tool is that you are only modifying the voltage signal from the MAF into the ECU affecting fueling, but not adjusting the timing map. Your off boost and on boost timing can be dramatically different and if the ECU doesn't get that right, your engine life may be short lived. Sure there are those who run a reflash and SAFC and have for some time, but to me the risk is not worth it.

If you really wanted to get a fine tune, you may be able to datalog a dyno run showing power/torque and A/F ratios and send that to the tuner, but you'd ultimately benefit from having the tuner getting some seat time with your car on the dyno making real-time changes.