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Tech Talk Technical Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars |
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#1 |
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SPL solid subframe bushings in S13?
Well, everywhere I search, I get kind of shaky results. I'm assuming this part needs to be cut out and this is where the bushings install, but before I hack up a good subframe, I figured I'd ask.
Yes, I searched. So, I cleaned out what SEEMS to be the cage but clarification without flaming would be helpful. Is this what needs to be cut out to continue the process to install the bushings or do the solids drop in and install from there? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Picture: ![]() Notice the lip? Now, does that 'sleeve' need to be cut out? All the other write-ups seem to be for energy suspension kits and not the solids. If anyone can find either an in depth write-up to help aid me or let me know, that would be great. I am going to make a write-up when done to clarify the confusion. |
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#2 |
Zilvia Addict
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Someone back me up here... but I believe that metal 'sleeve' needs to be cut out. I cut it and hammered it out on my s14 subframe when I installed my PBM subframe risers. Those risers fit super flush in the subframe once you remove that piece.
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#3 |
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That's what I thought as well. I hear back-and-forth about only 2 need to be cut and I was under the impression that was the fronts, but who knows. I want to make sure before I start cutting and there is no backing up. I don't have a spare subframe to 'experiment' with. If I can get some backup, that would also be great. I'm trying to make a new write-up and this kind of stuff would definitely help.
Appreciate the quick response, hellaslows13. If anyone can give me a heads up if ALL of them need to be cut, that'd be dope. I bought both sets from SPL, differentials bushings and subframe bushings. |
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#4 |
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All 4 on the subframe need to be cut out. I can post pics I just installed the stance bushing on my friends race car. Can post pics when I get to a computer. When you go to cut them out try not to cut into the subframe. I cut about 3/4 way through then used a hammer and a big flat head screw driver and pounded them out. To get the bushing I. Your going to need the freeze them for a good amount of time do get them to shrink. I used a bucket of dry ice to flash cool them. Still need to pound the new bushings in.
For the diff they just press In Freezing those helps also . Correct me if I'm wrong though. Here is my Flickr look through it for the pics will be page 14-20 . I can't post pics on my phone Flickr: s13phocker's Photostream
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#5 |
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Cut out all four sleeves for solid bushings. I froze mine over night then used a big vice and hammer to squeeze them in.
A maybe easier way is to get a long bolt, nut and some big washers. Use an impact wrench to tighten them into place. never tried it tho |
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#6 |
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Any rough idea of how thick they are so I don't accidentally start fucking up the subframe? Luckily I've been snapping pictures the whole way though so I can start a pretty detailed write-up but every single website gave me different information. I didn't want to start cutting all of them and in the end was only supposed to cut 2 - or even none. But, appreciate the insight.
Bushings will be in the freezer overnight and I will have to burn out the front 2 tomorrow morning and start cutting. I have a vice and hammer but in my garage, no compressor [mine decided to be a piece of shit and stop working] so that option is a no-go. Anyways, if anyone can think of more inside information before I get at it tomorrow in the early hours, let me know. If not, expect a write up either tomorrow night or in the morning the following day. Much love, Zilvians. Appreciate the input rather than flaming and sarcasm. |
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#8 |
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#9 |
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stelinge - That seems like the best and safest bet. I will try that. Appreciate it!
Razi - I realize that and that was the first place I looked, but most places I read other than SPL [I looked elsewhere after realizing they grouped 3 different cars together even though 2 are related, and the third not so far off], the installation for a S14 is completely different, and they even group Z32 in there. So, I'd rather get all the facts before fucking up and needing to source a whole new subframe. |
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#11 |
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i did 2 of subframes in a day. 1 using SPL the other using PBM bushings. both of them needed the sleeves cut out. took a saw zall to the inside of the sleeve and cut outward. cut toward the meaty part of the subframe rather than the thing outer edge. made 2 cuts and a simple hammer and chisel knocked them out.
PBMs just slid right in snug. SPLs were a bit of work. i took a wire wheel and cleaned the subframe. lubed both sides of the bushing up with lithium grease, took a big ass bolt, some washers, and a nut, sandwhiched them together and buzzed them into the subframe with a hefty impact. worked like a beast. I prefer the PBM tho. cheaper, easier installation, and raises the subframe to help with roll center. just my opinion though. |
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#12 |
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Well, the SPL's are already purchased so that is what I'm going with. Also will probably have to bring the subframe to a location with a compressor to get the bushings in to begin with.
So the diagram SPL has is correct? The big main solid bushings comes in from the bottom instead of sliding down from the top? |
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