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Old 09-06-2012, 06:25 PM   #1
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Sr20det overheating :(

Hey everyone I just rebuilt my Sr new Megan racing rad new hoses new water pump and it's overheating I haven't replaced the thermostat because it still looked in good condition but I will be replacing that tomorrow... Any ideas on what it could be?? I have an electric fan that's hooked up to the ignition so it's on 100% of the time...

Any help would be greatly appreciated
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Old 09-06-2012, 06:29 PM   #2
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change coolant sensor and temp sensor, at the same time you change your thermostat, Then bleed the system. Also I do not care what people read online or what they think they know, Please use water wetter. It does drop your temp a bit and helps with hot spots in the block/head. I swear by that stuff I always use it and it's awesome, I seen instant temp drop using water wetter.

I like to use a full bottle of water wetter, with mostly water and a little bit of coolant, Straight coolant not 50/50. You don't need coolant with water wetter because it does the same thing as water wetter but for street cars i always put a little bit of coolant for extra corrosion protection
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Old 09-06-2012, 06:30 PM   #3
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You will be using coolant sensor and temp from a s13 ka24de or possibly a 91-94 sentra Se-r.
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Old 09-06-2012, 06:30 PM   #4
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The coolant sensor is like $10 and the temp is $10. Also the bleeder bolt is on the water neck right next to the Oil dip stick
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Old 09-06-2012, 06:42 PM   #5
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How would you do the bleeding? I usually did the old method which was to take off rad cap let it burp and then then it starts to over flow to put cap on and done...
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Old 09-06-2012, 06:44 PM   #6
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How would you do the bleeding? I usually did the old method which was to take off rad cap let it burp and then then it starts to over flow to put cap on and done...
That works to a certain extent but sr20 are picky bitch engines and need more attention. It's a 10mm bolt just unscrew it and let it burp the air out from there, After a while you'll see coolant start to spit out a little bit and let it do that until its flowing like a volcano. Sometimes it might act like a geyser and spirt water up just straight water, either one of those is a sign that all the air is out and time to put the bolt back in. I'd wear gloves doing this cause that water can get stupid hot
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Old 09-06-2012, 06:45 PM   #7
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Also are your fans pulling air into the engine bay or pushing air out?
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Old 09-06-2012, 07:08 PM   #8
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Well it was pulling it and i had in front of the rad so I reversed it and they help a shit ton... Im gonna try the bleeder screw because I'm thinking that's it... Would I do it with the cap on or off??
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Old 09-06-2012, 07:29 PM   #9
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And should I do it to where it's like a steady stream or dribbling out? Or like a water hose like continuously flowing??
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Old 09-06-2012, 08:00 PM   #10
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Coolant raises the boiling point, prevents corrosion and flashing. I would run 50/50 in a street car.
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Old 09-06-2012, 08:01 PM   #11
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That's what I'm running now...
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Old 09-06-2012, 08:03 PM   #12
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Coolant raises the boiling point, prevents corrosion and flashing. I would run 50/50 in a street car.
So does water wetter
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Old 09-06-2012, 08:05 PM   #13
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So what about the bleeding process?? Like a lot or to where is comes out a Lil then stops then goes again?
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Old 09-06-2012, 08:07 PM   #14
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Well it was pulling it and i had in front of the rad so I reversed it and they help a shit ton... Im gonna try the bleeder screw because I'm thinking that's it... Would I do it with the cap on or off??
yea put them inside the engine bay pulling air into the bay, do it with the cap on and you want it a constant flow of water
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Old 09-06-2012, 08:08 PM   #15
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So what about the bleeding process?? Like a lot or to where is comes out a Lil then stops then goes again?
Constant flow of water
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Old 09-06-2012, 08:09 PM   #16
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Ok I'll have to mount the fan in the engine bay... I have it in front of the rad but pushing.. So I'll do that tomorrow as well
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Old 09-06-2012, 08:09 PM   #17
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When its dribbling out and spitting at you thats the air getting pushed out of the system, once it starts a steady flow then your good to go.
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Old 09-06-2012, 08:10 PM   #18
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Constant flow of water
Ok yea I'll do that tomorrow when I change the thermostat

I smell coolant inside the car also so I think the heater core might be leaking also :/
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Old 09-06-2012, 08:11 PM   #19
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Ok I'll have to mount the fan in the engine bay... I have it in front of the rad but pushing.. So I'll do that tomorrow as well
your using one fan? what size fan is it? that would also be a problem with electric fans, unless is a ford taurus single fan with 3 speeds your gonna need two fans, Esp if they are the godspeed or cx racing fans, they have no where near as much cooling affect on the engine as the stock clutch fan
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Old 09-06-2012, 08:12 PM   #20
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Ok yea I'll do that tomorrow when I change the thermostat

I smell coolant inside the car also so I think the heater core might be leaking also :/
Mine did that shit too! It's a bitch! that would allow air into the system even if you bleed it
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Old 09-06-2012, 08:13 PM   #21
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Mine did that shit too! It's a bitch! that would allow air into the system even if you bleed it
Yea!? Damn! Ok I'll just bypass it tomorrow lol I have a lot to work on tomorrow... Oh well as long as it stops over heating
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Old 09-06-2012, 08:15 PM   #22
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Actually, you dont want to run just water and water wetter. Water wetter doesnt have any anti-rust property. You want some coolant in there to prevent rust and the coolant acts like a lubricant to the water pump. That's the reason the instructions on the bottle tells you to run some coolant with it.

Best way to bleed the SR in my experience is raise the front as high as possible, take the cap off, massage the upper radiator hose while the car is running and keep the radiator topped off. Once you stop seeing bubbles come out and you start feeling the hose getting hot, it should be good.
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Old 09-06-2012, 08:21 PM   #23
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CFM is really important. are they cheapo fans? your going to need about 2000/3000 CFM
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Old 09-06-2012, 08:21 PM   #24
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Actually, you dont want to run just water and water wetter. Water wetter doesnt have any anti-rust property. You want some coolant in there to prevent rust and the coolant acts like a lubricant to the water pump. That's the reason the instructions on the bottle tells you to run some coolant with it.

Best way to bleed the SR in my experience is raise the front as high as possible, take the cap off, massage the upper radiator hose while the car is running and keep the radiator topped off. Once you stop seeing bubbles come out and you start feeling the hose getting hot, it should be good.
that is what i said my friend! i add a bit of cooooolant! I did say you don't need coolant didn't i, I argued with my self in the same post hahaha. Ok yes you need coolant but you don't add the 50/50 mix as you will be running mostly water anyways so add straight coolant so it's not too watered down
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Old 09-06-2012, 08:24 PM   #25
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I usually toss one of the gallon 50/50 coolants in the radiator, then the water wetter and top it off with distilled water. You want distilled water since its pure and doesnt have any contaminants. The contaminants in tap water is what could potentially cause your engine to rust.
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Old 09-06-2012, 08:28 PM   #26
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I usually toss one of the gallon 50/50 coolants in the radiator, then the water wetter and top it off with distilled water. You want distilled water since its pure and doesnt have any contaminants. The contaminants in tap water is what could potentially cause your engine to rust.
Yea distilled water is the goods! I usually add straight coolant and just let it mix with the water that I'm already adding, Have you tried Super coolant or that royal purple max cool? Everyone has they're own way of doin thangs!
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Old 09-06-2012, 08:30 PM   #27
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When you bought the megan radiator was it new or used? Either way did you run a hose through it for a few mins before installing it? Some times with the cheaper radiators they have metal shavings inside and cause the rows to get clogged and then pump those shavings right into your engine
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Old 09-06-2012, 08:34 PM   #28
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It was a used rad from a local performance shop
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Old 09-06-2012, 08:47 PM   #29
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So does water wetter
No it doesn't it's just a surfactant.
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It was a used rad from a local performance shop
Did you flush it with a hose like stated above? You have to wonder why it was sold in the first place.

I have to think its the thermo.
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Old 09-07-2012, 02:53 PM   #30
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Well I bled the system yesterday while I was at work and it didn't overheat on my way home and I bypassed the heater core right now and let the bleeder open for like 15 mins and it was like a consistent dribble so idk it that worked... I also added the water wetter to the mix aswell
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