Drift entrance techniques/form

[pacotaco345]

My run starts at 2:00

Comments? My car setup currently is stock ka, pbm coils, 4* camber front and back, 40 psi all around, 215/40/17, coilovers max'd all around, 7mm inner tie rod spacers, I think that's pretty much it..

Pretty much the first sweeper was a 75 mph top of third entry, half way through shove it in second and keep the car there for the rest of the course. I know there's no video of my hands or feet, and there's music but feel free to comment on my line or my throttle control. I'm going sr this summer and pulling the camber out in the back to probably 1*

[di-devol]

Originally Posted by SoCalDrifter

I dont know if this is the right place or not but i was wondering what you guys run for alignment wise??

Right now i need a alignment i have about -2.5 up front and like -1.5 camber in the rear with a little toe out and in (front and back) usually when i go to do a alignment i do -2.5 to -2.7 up front with about .3 toe-out in the front and for the rear i set everything to 0....does that sound about right? or should i be putting some toe in for the rear and maybe alittle camber or no??... Also do you prefer 17'' wheels to 18'' wheels or is it not that much of a difference i have a full set of 17s and 18s i use for drifting but eventually i plan on selling all my wheels and getting 10 of the same wheels and always running the same tire size to keep it as consistant as possible but i dont know if i should go with 17x10 or 18x10 all the way around

If it matters its for my 14 making about 330whp

Toe out in the rear is iffy, if anything run toe in on the rear. My settings atm:

Front:
-7 camber
8.9 caster
1/8" toe out
25mm I think of roll center correction

Rear:
-.5 camber
traction rod is a hair longer
1/8" toe in


I started out stock, and eventually ended up here, car is down right now and are planning on taking some camber out up front and reducing the caster back to stock and see how I like it.

[di-devol]

Originally Posted by pacotaco345

My run starts at 2:00

Comments? My car setup currently is stock ka, pbm coils, 4* camber front and back, 40 psi all around, 215/40/17, coilovers max'd all around, 7mm inner tie rod spacers, I think that's pretty much it..

Pretty much the first sweeper was a 75 mph top of third entry, half way through shove it in second and keep the car there for the rest of the course. I know there's no video of my hands or feet, and there's music but feel free to comment on my line or my throttle control. I'm going sr this summer and pulling the camber out in the back to probably 1*

Looks good to me, that track looks huge haha. You'll do well with the SR. Seems like you got a good idea of what to do with your alignment once you get some power too.

[chiboy002]

Originally Posted by iamtheyi

Learning to drift on a Open is retarded. It is not fun.
Don't go to Adam's and save the money to go to Willow.

drifting on an open is 100% better than learning on a welded in every single way, if you actually want to learn.

Originally Posted by KA240SX808

Teaches you to make the most of weight transfer and speed because without it you'll never keep and open sliding.

egg-sactly.
a welded is always locked, meaning you can't not break the rear end loose. Let's say you drift on a welded for 3 years and decide to switch to a 1.5 or 2 way. Well, neither of those diffs are constantly locked, unlike the welded, so as soon as it unlocks its gonna act like an open.

Did you learn how to drift with an open? No. So now youre gonna have to relearn some of the basics on controlling your diff, whereas if he learns to do it then goes to welded, he won't. Might as well learn now, save the money needed to weld it, and do it later when he can't progress with a welded or feels he is ready to explore more set ups.

If my opinion mattered, I'd say learning on an open then going straight to a lsd is much better. skip the welded cause it doesn't really teach you much. You'll prolly even get 'babied' by the welded and when you do switch it up, if ever, your skill will drop quite a bit as you readjust.

[chiboy002]

Originally Posted by di-devol

Front:
-7 camber
8.9 caster
1/8" toe out
25mm I think of roll center correction

do you use roll center correctors or did you have the mounting points moved?

In my time working with Stance-USA, i learned that stock caster isn't ideal for drifting. Ideally, you want ~6.2-6.5* caster, as well as you want to get camber/caster plates instead of adjusting it at the tension rods.

However, I was also told that most people wouldn't notice much improvement in suspension geometry if adjusting from plates since the rest of the car isn't properly set up.

[di-devol]

Originally Posted by chiboy002

do you use roll center correctors or did you have the mounting points moved?

In my time working with Stance-USA, i learned that stock caster isn't ideal for drifting. Ideally, you want ~6.2-6.5* caster, as well as you want to get camber/caster plates instead of adjusting it at the tension rods.

However, I was also told that most people wouldn't notice much improvement in suspension geometry if adjusting from plates since the rest of the car isn't properly set up.

I have modified flca's.

I liked the feeling of the car steering its self alot. I've never had to flcik the steering wheel over to transition, I just let go.

I think stock is 6? I was actually going to try different settings coming up. I want to try and flick the car more, seems like more fun. I was thinking about dropping caster to 6.5/7ish and taking some camber out.

[chiboy002]

you lazy man, lol

i have 6.7 right now, i really like it but i might turn it down a bit, 6.5 is what i was thinking.

[di-devol]

Can someone tell me which is the leading tire? I always thought it was the one "leading" the other. I saw a thread on here, don't remember which, stated is was the "following tire" that had/needed the contact patch.

I always put more camber in the front to get a better contact patch for the tire in front:



If I'm wrong the passenger tire is the leading tire? (In the picture). If so, I have way too much camber haha.

[whyteboi]

The one countersteered into the turn is the leading tire. The negative camber helps correct the positive camber gain you get while turning. The lead tire stays flat at lock so you have more control at or near full lock.

[di-devol]

Originally Posted by whyteboi

The one countersteered into the turn is the leading tire. The negative camber helps correct the positive camber gain you get while turning. The lead tire stays flat at lock so you have more control at or near full lock.

You missed my question. I know what the camber does. Are they not BOTH counter steered?
So... in my picture, which tire would that be? Just to confirm, I believe the leading tire is the drivers side tire.

[whyteboi]

In that picture, driver side.

[di-devol]

Originally Posted by whyteboi

In that picture, driver side.

LOL, ok. I had it right. That's me in that pic(if you care), so I had my settings correct to get the leading tire a better contact patch.

What I read was wrong.

[pacotaco345]

Originally Posted by di-devol

I think stock is 6?

...Stock is 6?? Wow.. lol either my car is fucked or the alignment rack I took it to is fucked because I have stock tension rods and the machine read 8.4* on my car for both sides.

[koukistylejdm]

as you can see from that pic the trailing wheel isnt really important...
i did the whole 3rd gear bank with the wheel like that and never noticed until i stopped drifting (broken coilover)

[di-devol]

Originally Posted by pacotaco345

...Stock is 6?? Wow.. lol either my car is fucked or the alignment rack I took it to is fucked because I have stock tension rods and the machine read 8.4* on my car for both sides.

Yea, stock is really low compared to what most people run. I think some people just run higher caster so the wheels don't rub.

Originally Posted by koukistylejdm

as you can see from that pic the trailing wheel isnt really important...
i did the whole 3rd gear bank with the wheel like that and never noticed until i stopped drifting (broken coilover)

LOL. I know what the leading tire and trailer tire do. I was stating that someone said the "leading tire" was the one following.

[cantdrift11]

so looking for some input guys.. still learning here. Lexus IS300, mostly suspension, coilovers, lsd, rear suspension arms, front suspension still stock, upgraded clutch and flywheel. Car weighed in at 3100 and thats with mostly gutted interior and welded cage, mostly (headers, intake, exhaust) stock na 2jzge which is about 200whp.
Camber in front -3.5 and rear close to 0 camber.. i recently crashed the passenger side and replaced all the arms and never did a proper alignment prior to this track day. Thoughts?

[KA240SX808]

What's your tire setup?
Brand/Model, psi, etc.

[VinceDude]

Originally Posted by cantdrift11

so looking for some input guys.. still learning here. Lexus IS300, mostly suspension, coilovers, lsd, rear suspension arms, front suspension still stock, upgraded clutch and flywheel. Car weighed in at 3100 and thats with mostly gutted interior and welded cage, mostly (headers, intake, exhaust) stock na 2jzge which is about 200whp.
Camber in front -3.5 and rear close to 0 camber.. i recently crashed the passenger side and replaced all the arms and never did a proper alignment prior to this track day. Thoughts?

MOOOOOORE Power!!!! Lol looking good though.

[cantdrift11]

Originally Posted by KA240SX808

What's your tire setup?
Brand/Model, psi, etc.

I got new tires for this track day, federals 595's, 215/45/17 all around. 32 psi front and 50 psi in rear. First I started at 45 in rear wasn't enough when the track started heating up.

First thing my buddy says after a couple runs, "you know what I'm gonna say, more power dude!"

[iamtheyi]

Originally Posted by cantdrift11

I got new tires for this track day, federals 595's, 215/45/17 all around. 32 psi front and 50 psi in rear. First I started at 45 in rear wasn't enough when the track started heating up.

First thing my buddy says after a couple runs, "you know what I'm gonna say, more power dude!"

federals run super wide. Going another brand like achilles would help alleviate some of your power issues.

[KA240SX808]

Are you clutch kicking at all? I don't think I hear any.
Also I saw you under steer a tad during the RH transition, that would automatically tell me to get better tires up front.
That will help with keeping the rear end sliding as a quick jerk of the wheel will help keep the traction broken if the front grabs.
A sliding/under steering front gives your rear tires a chance to grip.
Also try 55psi in the rear, I've done 55psi on my 595's in the same size no problem.

[cantdrift11]

Originally Posted by KA240SX808

Are you clutch kicking at all? I don't think I hear any.
Also I saw you under steer a tad during the RH transition, that would automatically tell me to get better tires up front.
That will help with keeping the rear end sliding as a quick jerk of the wheel will help keep the traction broken if the front grabs.
A sliding/under steering front gives your rear tires a chance to grip.
Also try 55psi in the rear, I've done 55psi on my 595's in the same size no problem.

definitely clutch kicking here

[KA240SX808]

I only heard you kick it maybe 3 times, no?
Looks like you need to treat your car like a SOHC KA.
More clutch kicks and shallow angle and if need be bigger circles to keep RPM's up and angles shallow.
Might not look as crazy with the shallow angles but at least you'll get it down without looking/sounding like your struggling.
Also your entry could use a slight bit more speed and earlier entry then use the eBrake to trim speed.

[jasoncanseeoh]

Superrrrrrrrrrrrrr noob question. I don't have trouble drifting, in my eyes at least. I feel as if I drift just fine.
Although, I have been on the quest for more grip. They say for drifting to dial in as much grip as possible. Does that mean to set your rear dampening to full soft?
Cause when I try to drift with my rear end on full soft, it feels as if I don't have enough power to keep the wheels spinning. Or even if I try to reduce tire pressure for more grip, it seems as if my power levels decrease. I'm pushing 325whp/360wtq btw on 225/40/18 tires.

Is that where adding more power comes into play?

When do you know if it's a tire size issue or if it's a car setup issue?

I've got a lot of questions about grip, but if anyone can answer the above, that would be awesome!

[DRIFTER-M]

Originally Posted by jasoncanseeoh

Superrrrrrrrrrrrrr noob question. I don't have trouble drifting, in my eyes at least. I feel as if I drift just fine.
Although, I have been on the quest for more grip. They say for drifting to dial in as much grip as possible. Does that mean to set your rear dampening to full soft?
Cause when I try to drift with my rear end on full soft, it feels as if I don't have enough power to keep the wheels spinning. Or even if I try to reduce tire pressure for more grip, it seems as if my power levels decrease. I'm pushing 325whp/360wtq btw on 225/40/18 tires.

Is that where adding more power comes into play?

When do you know if it's a tire size issue or if it's a car setup issue?

I've got a lot of questions about grip, but if anyone can answer the above, that would be awesome!

Definitely not full soft! Try to click it up a tad and tune from there. Your power range is fi.e, you are just so soft/loose, your car isn't going to slide right, in lamens terms.

Brings up an interesting topic that should probably be discussed more, however.

What do most people think are ideal dampening settings on coilovers for drifting?

For example: I have 32 way adjustability coilovers with 9/7 spring rates. I have mine at 16 clicks all around. Most people would hate this setup, but I have gotten use to it. The car these are on has a stock KA.

*just for insight, I have had plenty of s-chassis and plenty of coilovers. I just thought this discussion would be interesting and maybe give some beginners tips on where to start.

For reference, my 16 all around tends to let me go a bit wide, and certainly makes initiating interesting. Certainly not recommended for most, especially beginners. Again though, I myself have gotten use to it and enjoy the setup, though I will likely tune it up soon (car isn't driven too much outside of drifting and is currently down and undergoing some work).

[iamtheyi]

Stock KA, softer in the front. Stiffer in the rear. Helps rear swing out and front grip.

stock sr, basically same as KA.

Built either, start stiffening up front and soften up rear. Keeps front end planted while the rear is swinging and keeps it from swaying too much; the rear can now grip more so you can utilize the new found power.

[KA240SX808]

Originally Posted by jasoncanseeoh

Superrrrrrrrrrrrrr noob question. I don't have trouble drifting, in my eyes at least. I feel as if I drift just fine.
Although, I have been on the quest for more grip. They say for drifting to dial in as much grip as possible. Does that mean to set your rear dampening to full soft?
Cause when I try to drift with my rear end on full soft, it feels as if I don't have enough power to keep the wheels spinning. Or even if I try to reduce tire pressure for more grip, it seems as if my power levels decrease. I'm pushing 325whp/360wtq btw on 225/40/18 tires.

Is that where adding more power comes into play?

When do you know if it's a tire size issue or if it's a car setup issue?

I've got a lot of questions about grip, but if anyone can answer the above, that would be awesome!

Your probably going too far of an extreme, small changes are noticeable.
Drop your Tire maybe 2psi at a time.
Rear Damping drop it 2 clicks at a time also.

Going to 30psi tire Pressure and full soft rear damping is like going straight to drag specs. Just bring it down slowly till you have the grip you want or your having too hard of a time sliding it. Then at that point you may need to adjust your style a little bit to keep the rear end out.

[Tedskiii]

My favorite thread ! I enjoy reading through this when I can. I can't wait till my car is driveable again.

Oh and ^^ Hi Scott !

[Tedskiii]

Is there a baseline/ideal alignment to start off with when figuring out whats best for you?

[KA240SX808]

Start of with Stock or you can use my Baseline:

Front Caster: 6.80 - 7.00* (Need Tension Rods or Caster Adj. Plates | More Caster = More Self Steer)
Front Toe: 0
Front Camber 1.75 - 2.25* (Need Camber Bolts or Plates | I normally start with 2.00*)

Rear Toe: 0
Rear Camber: 1.00* (Rear has LOTS of Camber gain, don't need much Static)