Code 34 s13 ka24de - Zilvia.net Forums | Nissan 240SX (Silvia) and Z (Fairlady) Car Forum

mnsmith293 · 09-16-2013, 02:52 PM

The car is a 1992 240sx with a used motor that was put in about 6 months ago. It has never ran quite right and I am trying to get it running correctly. There had no check engine light on so I didn't think to pull the codes until now.

It came up with code 34 and that is it. I was wondering if it could be a false positive, my car has solid poly urethane motor mounts? Will this put the car into limp mode?

Currently the motor starts up easily and cruises well with no smoke. However when I am accelerating sometimes it will bog a little or lag and then catch and start accelerating. The car has no AIV, charcoal canister or cat. Cone filter and crappy 2 inch catback (the old one broke off lol). New: Spark plugs gapped properly, plug wires, distributer cap and rotor, fuel filter, air filter, new oil filter and 10w30.
It does make a ticking sound once with each motor revolution but I think that is lifter tick but I am not sure. I am getting a compression tester today and I will post the results. How would I tell if what the ticking sound is and please help me fix this bogging it is driving me nuts.

mnsmith293 · 09-16-2013, 03:56 PM

Also the bogging only happens right around 2700 rpms and will only do it for a split second most of the time or not at all and only at about a quarter throttle (Wot it will not do it) but sometimes it is more noticeable seemingly at night when it's cooler outside. I just went outside to make a video of the car but the ticking was inaudible and it only bogged once for about a half a second and you really couldn't notice it on the video.

coupesallday! · 09-16-2013, 04:11 PM

I heard nicoclub has some great info

mnsmith293 · 09-16-2013, 04:45 PM

I read all of the stickys and at first I thought it might be IACV but my idle is fine it idles at 1100 when cold and then settles down to normal very quickly.Please excuse the trunk rattle, this is the car on startup. No ticking is audible just trunk rattle.

And acceleration no lag at all today.

Om1kron · 09-16-2013, 04:47 PM

blah the fuck blah, search button.

mnsmith293 · 09-16-2013, 04:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Om1kron

blah the fuck blah, search button.

I've been searching, I managed to swap the engine and get it running all on my own with liberal use of the search button, I just need help with this minor issue.

OnTheChip · 09-17-2013, 07:58 AM

Code 34 is the knock sensor, which causes the timing to be retarded for safety, which may be causing the bog issue. Check the knock sensor wiring and replace the knock sensor if necessary.

freepunk · 09-17-2013, 08:46 AM

Had the same code thrown along with a maf error code. Took weeks to figure out. Ended up being a short in my fuel pump wiring inside the gas tank that was throwing all the codes. Also had bogging issues. I would check all your harneses.

If you do replace the knock sensor it is also a good idea to do the harness sensor at the same time.

Om1kron · 09-17-2013, 10:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by freepunk

Had the same code thrown along with a maf error code. Took weeks to figure out. Ended up being a short in my fuel pump wiring inside the gas tank that was throwing all the codes. Also had bogging issues. I would check all your harneses.

If you do replace the knock sensor it is also a good idea to do the harness sensor at the same time.

don't bother replacing the knock sensor. ditch it entirely and plug it up with a diode. There is information on how to put a 1mhz 1ohm sensor in place of the knock sub harness. this will alleviate that as a problem.

If your engine is going to knock, it's gonna knock. That sensor isn't going to do shit to save it.

mnsmith293 · 09-17-2013, 07:10 PM

I forgot to mention that I already knew that code 34 = knock sensor. Harness is beyond shit from the previous owner, I didn't notice it at first but the more work I do on the car the more splices and electrical tape I find

Thanks for the help guys looks like some electrical work might be in order and deleting the knock sensor.

Found this as well.
"Solid motor mounts/worn broken motor mounts will/can make a solid connection to your chassis causing extreame vibrations at idle and low rpms. Normally the stock mounts dampen this.

Our knock sensors should pick up on these vibrations and retard timing. This will make your car "slower than it was."

09-16-2013, 02:52 PM	#1
mnsmith293 Join Date: Sep 2013 Location: NC Age: 35 Posts: 15 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Code 34 s13 ka24de The car is a 1992 240sx with a used motor that was put in about 6 months ago. It has never ran quite right and I am trying to get it running correctly. There had no check engine light on so I didn't think to pull the codes until now. It came up with code 34 and that is it. I was wondering if it could be a false positive, my car has solid poly urethane motor mounts? Will this put the car into limp mode? Currently the motor starts up easily and cruises well with no smoke. However when I am accelerating sometimes it will bog a little or lag and then catch and start accelerating. The car has no AIV, charcoal canister or cat. Cone filter and crappy 2 inch catback (the old one broke off lol). New: Spark plugs gapped properly, plug wires, distributer cap and rotor, fuel filter, air filter, new oil filter and 10w30. It does make a ticking sound once with each motor revolution but I think that is lifter tick but I am not sure. I am getting a compression tester today and I will post the results. How would I tell if what the ticking sound is and please help me fix this bogging it is driving me nuts.

09-16-2013, 04:47 PM	#5
Om1kron Post Whore! Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Granada Hills, CA Age: 44 Posts: 6,992 Trader Rating: (15) Feedback Score: 15 reviews	blah the fuck blah, search button. __________________ Wayne Edwards https://om1kron.blogspot.com

09-17-2013, 07:58 AM	#7
OnTheChip Zilvia Junkie Join Date: May 2013 Location: Burgaw, NC Posts: 318 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Code 34 is the knock sensor, which causes the timing to be retarded for safety, which may be causing the bog issue. Check the knock sensor wiring and replace the knock sensor if necessary. __________________ NismotronicSA - Speed-Density Tuning for Nissans

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09-16-2013, 03:56 PM	#2
mnsmith293 Join Date: Sep 2013 Location: NC Age: 35 Posts: 15 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Also the bogging only happens right around 2700 rpms and will only do it for a split second most of the time or not at all and only at about a quarter throttle (Wot it will not do it) but sometimes it is more noticeable seemingly at night when it's cooler outside. I just went outside to make a video of the car but the ticking was inaudible and it only bogged once for about a half a second and you really couldn't notice it on the video.

09-16-2013, 04:45 PM	#4
mnsmith293 Join Date: Sep 2013 Location: NC Age: 35 Posts: 15 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	I read all of the stickys and at first I thought it might be IACV but my idle is fine it idles at 1100 when cold and then settles down to normal very quickly.Please excuse the trunk rattle, this is the car on startup. No ticking is audible just trunk rattle. And acceleration no lag at all today.

09-17-2013, 08:46 AM	#8
freepunk Leaky Injector Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Utah Age: 38 Posts: 60 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Had the same code thrown along with a maf error code. Took weeks to figure out. Ended up being a short in my fuel pump wiring inside the gas tank that was throwing all the codes. Also had bogging issues. I would check all your harneses. If you do replace the knock sensor it is also a good idea to do the harness sensor at the same time.

09-17-2013, 07:10 PM	#10
mnsmith293 Join Date: Sep 2013 Location: NC Age: 35 Posts: 15 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	I forgot to mention that I already knew that code 34 = knock sensor. Harness is beyond shit from the previous owner, I didn't notice it at first but the more work I do on the car the more splices and electrical tape I find Thanks for the help guys looks like some electrical work might be in order and deleting the knock sensor. Found this as well. "Solid motor mounts/worn broken motor mounts will/can make a solid connection to your chassis causing extreame vibrations at idle and low rpms. Normally the stock mounts dampen this. Our knock sensors should pick up on these vibrations and retard timing. This will make your car "slower than it was."