SR20 ECU only sending 3.3v to Knock Sensor?

[cbh148]

Originally Posted by supersmashboi

hey bro did you use a timing light to check your timing? and i used a fluke meter to check my reference signal and still got 3.3v is the ecu having an issue?

I did use a timing light, and I thought I was doing it correctly.
-- I unplugged the TPS when I went to set the ignition timing. Also used a spark plug wire between the #1 coilpack and the spark plug so that my friend's old timing light could get the inductive signal off that plug wire.

I tried revving the SR up to about 3500 or so 3 or 4 times to put the computer in "timing mode", but I don't know exactly what "timing mode" is or how to make for certain whether I was in/out of it.

At this point, I went to actually adjusting the CAS to set the timing. It seemed to have a little ~4° jump to it that occured every second or two, right at the exact same moment as this little hiccup sound that my SR makes when it idles. Maybe it's a little misfire? Not sure, but it is on all 4 cylinders when driving (doesn't sound like a subaru haha). (Also, my buddy's hardbody that we put an SR into doesn't have that little hiccup timing light jump at all. The crank pulley appears perfectly still when I shine the same timing light on it.)
Anyways, I put the 15° mark somewhere within the ~4° range of "jumpyness" thinking this would be ok. My SR felt a lot better after setting the ignition timing because it was retarded to begin with, however, it still doesn't feel anything like I think it should. Several friends with stock SR's feel twice as fast as mine.

My SR doesn't make power like it should, and I don't know why. I even swapped back to a stock t25g because I was running a 2871r (.64 hotside, 52 trim, aka HKS GTRS) with stock tune/injectors/MAF and was scared that this would damage my SR, but it doesn't feel ANY better at all now. Compression numbers are shown (warmed up, throttle wide open, all spark plugs removed, fuel injectors unplugged too) and they look good to me. Also, here's a pic of my CAS adjustment after I set it. It only has this one bolt holding it in because the other bolt was already snapped off into the head when I got this engine.